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What wheels should I get?

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Old 05-13-13 | 06:01 PM
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Back in the 70's there was a rim pulling tool available to pull flat spots out of a rim. Many shops still have one laying around, you need to find that shop and ask to use it. Works quite well on the A124. I did two of them on my own bike back in the day after hitting a chuck hole at night!
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Old 05-13-13 | 06:46 PM
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I remember that tool. I used it. It was more useful back then, because steel rims were more common than aluminum rims.
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Old 05-13-13 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider
I remember that tool. I used it. It was more useful back then, because steel rims were more common than aluminum rims.
Are you saying that this tool only works well with steel rims? might be worth a making a few calls, although at this point I am getting excited about building a wheel...
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Old 05-13-13 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by wrk101
Spend some time getting knowledge. Randy's site is a good place to start. It's not about brand or often, not even model either. It's all about condition, the grade/quality of components and frame. Realize there are scoopers everywhere, and in a major mkt like Chicago, stuff goes quick
your talking about https://www.mytenspeeds.com/ right? I just barely started reading through some of the site, but I like the info. All seams very realistic, and some really great bikes!

I guess its the condition grade and quality part that scares me, or more specifically the "grade". Knowing whats, what. Your right about the scoopers, I have already seen it happen, I bookmarked a link to a bike and then go to look at it later that day and its gone...
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Old 05-14-13 | 01:34 AM
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Well, just in case anyone was on the edge of their seat waiting to see what i would do, i just pulled the trigger on these:
https://www.velomine.com/index.php?ma...oducts_id=2114

I think they will work pretty well, and this free's up some time for me to spend on building up a set of wheels at my own pace.

First, I need to finish up the rest of the bike.
-clean and polish parts
-touch up paint
-replace housing cables and brakes
-wrap bars

Thanks everyone for your insight and comments, you really helped me figure this out.

--Man, I love this forum!
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Old 05-14-13 | 10:21 AM
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Good choice. Best of luck!
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Old 05-15-13 | 10:39 PM
  #32  
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So i received my wheels today, shipping was super fast because velomine is also i Illinois. Now that I have them in hand to play with, I have a small problem. The back frame spacing seems to be 120mm and the hub is 126mm. I thought I measured the spacing to be 126mm, but it is pretty clear now that it is not. I dropped the old wheel in and if fits like a charm, they new one I have to spread the frame a bit to get it to work...

Anyway, this isn't a huge deal, right? What would be the best approach to this problem? Changing spacers in the hub (its quick release), or just spreading the frame? If I spread the frame, are there any other adjustments that need to be made? I have found suggestions online, but I would like to know what the BEST approach amongst them might be. Also, I do not want to cold set my frame, as i might rebuild the original Weinmann hubs and I would like them to fit again. I was thinking that if anything was modified permanently, the new hub would probably be the victim. But of course a solution without permanently changing the state of any parts would probably be ideal. any suggestions.

Also, I coincidently ordered digital calipers yesterday. No more measurement errors from me in the future. I swear!

oh, and BTW the width of the sun m13II matches the Weinmann a124 almost exactly. I think the Weinmann might be 1mm larger at most, i'll know for sure once i get those calipers.
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Old 05-16-13 | 01:02 AM
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If you're uncomfortable cold-setting the rear stays, try not to be so uncomfortable about spreading the stays by a few millimeters to fit the new wheel. It has been done plenty of times.

I had a wheel built with the M13II and thought it was a really nice, narrow, classic looking rim. If you're looking for a narrow tire, this is one of the best low cost modern options.
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Old 05-16-13 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by DiegoFrogs
If you're uncomfortable cold-setting the rear stays, try not to be so uncomfortable about spreading the stays by a few millimeters to fit the new wheel. It has been done plenty of times.

I had a wheel built with the M13II and thought it was a really nice, narrow, classic looking rim. If you're looking for a narrow tire, this is one of the best low cost modern options.
Yeah, the wheel is great. Considering the cost, it matches the original rim very well in terms of look and size.

I am fine with spreading the frame, i just want to make sure that there is not going to be any uses with the chain (i think its chainline that i am referring to) or wheel dishing. I dont want to toss the wheel on there and then end up having problems later down the road that I could have fix/adjusted now...
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Old 05-16-13 | 11:20 AM
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You will probably not have any issues, just get the wheel on there and test out all the gears before going on a ride.
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Old 05-16-13 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by lostarchitect
You will probably not have any issues, just get the wheel on there and test out all the gears before going on a ride.
OK, thanks for the advice, will do. If there was something i needed to do, i wanted to get it started now. I am still waiting on the rim tape and freewheel removal tool that i ordered, I can not wait to get this going already!

By the way, I also received my digital calipers. Back fork is 123.5mm and the new hub does measure in at just under 126mm. Its amazing how much of a difference 2.5mm can make...

Also, another can on works I opened with these calipers. My old Brake cables are 1.6mm, and the shift cables are 1.5mm. Originally figuring they would be standard, i have 1.5mm and 1.1mm cables (consecutively) to replace them. That shouldn't be a big deal right? I also have new housing to go along with them.
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