What wheels should I get?
#26
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2012
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Back in the 70's there was a rim pulling tool available to pull flat spots out of a rim. Many shops still have one laying around, you need to find that shop and ask to use it. Works quite well on the A124. I did two of them on my own bike back in the day after hitting a chuck hole at night!
#27
aka Tom Reingold




Joined: Jan 2009
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From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
I remember that tool. I used it. It was more useful back then, because steel rims were more common than aluminum rims.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#28
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 59
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From: Chicago
Bikes: 1977 Raleigh Super Course
Are you saying that this tool only works well with steel rims? might be worth a making a few calls, although at this point I am getting excited about building a wheel...
#29
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 59
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From: Chicago
Bikes: 1977 Raleigh Super Course
Spend some time getting knowledge. Randy's site is a good place to start. It's not about brand or often, not even model either. It's all about condition, the grade/quality of components and frame. Realize there are scoopers everywhere, and in a major mkt like Chicago, stuff goes quick
I guess its the condition grade and quality part that scares me, or more specifically the "grade". Knowing whats, what. Your right about the scoopers, I have already seen it happen, I bookmarked a link to a bike and then go to look at it later that day and its gone...
#30
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 59
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From: Chicago
Bikes: 1977 Raleigh Super Course
Well, just in case anyone was on the edge of their seat waiting to see what i would do, i just pulled the trigger on these:
https://www.velomine.com/index.php?ma...oducts_id=2114
I think they will work pretty well, and this free's up some time for me to spend on building up a set of wheels at my own pace.
First, I need to finish up the rest of the bike.
-clean and polish parts
-touch up paint
-replace housing cables and brakes
-wrap bars
Thanks everyone for your insight and comments, you really helped me figure this out.
--Man, I love this forum!
https://www.velomine.com/index.php?ma...oducts_id=2114
I think they will work pretty well, and this free's up some time for me to spend on building up a set of wheels at my own pace.
First, I need to finish up the rest of the bike.
-clean and polish parts
-touch up paint
-replace housing cables and brakes
-wrap bars
Thanks everyone for your insight and comments, you really helped me figure this out.
--Man, I love this forum!
#32
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
Bikes: 1977 Raleigh Super Course
So i received my wheels today, shipping was super fast because velomine is also i Illinois. Now that I have them in hand to play with, I have a small problem. The back frame spacing seems to be 120mm and the hub is 126mm. I thought I measured the spacing to be 126mm, but it is pretty clear now that it is not. I dropped the old wheel in and if fits like a charm, they new one I have to spread the frame a bit to get it to work...
Anyway, this isn't a huge deal, right? What would be the best approach to this problem? Changing spacers in the hub (its quick release), or just spreading the frame? If I spread the frame, are there any other adjustments that need to be made? I have found suggestions online, but I would like to know what the BEST approach amongst them might be. Also, I do not want to cold set my frame, as i might rebuild the original Weinmann hubs and I would like them to fit again. I was thinking that if anything was modified permanently, the new hub would probably be the victim. But of course a solution without permanently changing the state of any parts would probably be ideal. any suggestions.
Also, I coincidently ordered digital calipers yesterday. No more measurement errors from me in the future. I swear!
oh, and BTW the width of the sun m13II matches the Weinmann a124 almost exactly. I think the Weinmann might be 1mm larger at most, i'll know for sure once i get those calipers.
Anyway, this isn't a huge deal, right? What would be the best approach to this problem? Changing spacers in the hub (its quick release), or just spreading the frame? If I spread the frame, are there any other adjustments that need to be made? I have found suggestions online, but I would like to know what the BEST approach amongst them might be. Also, I do not want to cold set my frame, as i might rebuild the original Weinmann hubs and I would like them to fit again. I was thinking that if anything was modified permanently, the new hub would probably be the victim. But of course a solution without permanently changing the state of any parts would probably be ideal. any suggestions.
Also, I coincidently ordered digital calipers yesterday. No more measurement errors from me in the future. I swear!
oh, and BTW the width of the sun m13II matches the Weinmann a124 almost exactly. I think the Weinmann might be 1mm larger at most, i'll know for sure once i get those calipers.
#33
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,584
Likes: 107
From: Scranton, PA, USA
Bikes: '77 Centurion "Pro Tour"; '67 Carlton "The Flyer"; 1984 Ross MTB (stored at parents' house)
If you're uncomfortable cold-setting the rear stays, try not to be so uncomfortable about spreading the stays by a few millimeters to fit the new wheel. It has been done plenty of times.
I had a wheel built with the M13II and thought it was a really nice, narrow, classic looking rim. If you're looking for a narrow tire, this is one of the best low cost modern options.
I had a wheel built with the M13II and thought it was a really nice, narrow, classic looking rim. If you're looking for a narrow tire, this is one of the best low cost modern options.
#34
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
Bikes: 1977 Raleigh Super Course
If you're uncomfortable cold-setting the rear stays, try not to be so uncomfortable about spreading the stays by a few millimeters to fit the new wheel. It has been done plenty of times.
I had a wheel built with the M13II and thought it was a really nice, narrow, classic looking rim. If you're looking for a narrow tire, this is one of the best low cost modern options.
I had a wheel built with the M13II and thought it was a really nice, narrow, classic looking rim. If you're looking for a narrow tire, this is one of the best low cost modern options.
I am fine with spreading the frame, i just want to make sure that there is not going to be any uses with the chain (i think its chainline that i am referring to) or wheel dishing. I dont want to toss the wheel on there and then end up having problems later down the road that I could have fix/adjusted now...
#36
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 59
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From: Chicago
Bikes: 1977 Raleigh Super Course
By the way, I also received my digital calipers. Back fork is 123.5mm and the new hub does measure in at just under 126mm. Its amazing how much of a difference 2.5mm can make...
Also, another can on works I opened with these calipers. My old Brake cables are 1.6mm, and the shift cables are 1.5mm. Originally figuring they would be standard, i have 1.5mm and 1.1mm cables (consecutively) to replace them. That shouldn't be a big deal right? I also have new housing to go along with them.





