Hi all.

I was thinking.... maybe I can drill the old TA dustcaps so that I can convert them to self extracting bolts?
Anyone have done it? Is it something doable or am I thinking about something crazy?

sounds krazy, kat!
The way a SE bolt usually works is the outer "ring" screws into the dustcap threads and the inner (ROUND, not hex) bolt head has to rotate and press against that ring so the ring has to be pretty beefy. I don't think a modified TA dustcap would be up for that service, probably be ruined if not immediately then before too many cycles...and that defeats the whole idea (or at least some) of having a SE bolt, I'd think.
I'd stick to something with 22mm threading and use a commercially-made SE bolt/ring combo that has proved good.

Why not just buy self extractors?

^I don't know of any that come in the 23mm size for TA, I have only seen 22mm.

sokito- TA makes self-extractors. Go here.

It can't be done.

yes, BUT: as they say these are
Standard M22 x M8 x 1 x 20 mm.
so good for a NEW TA (or other brand) crank with 22mm threading, but not for a classic 23mm TA crank (which I assume we are talkin' bout).

You could weld a nut to the cap perhaps?

There IS a way to do this right:
just be a skilled machinist with your CNC mill and a slug of billet alloy.
Now match the ring of that modern TA but make the OD 23mm and cut threads to match.
Bob's yer Uncle...

Yep. Easy as pie. I have a $20 bill for the first person who posts pics of this.

I know I have seen these somewhere. If you really want them just let your fingers do the walking through the internet.

Try Bens in Milwaukee or eve Yellow Jersey for starters.

It might work. You would want to find the right SE bolt to use with it, but I think it might be worth a try.

Perhaps braze a washer under the cap to provide additional reinforcement? You'd want to remove the chrome first.

And you have my address!

yeah, might and might...if it was my (old) TA crank I wouldn't mess with it, but if you are game to ruin a couple TA dustcaps, then all you risk is possibly also ruining the crank's threads. Maybe only the outer 3 or so, if you're lucky.
Not a game I want to play, buy YRMV.

HA!: $20 photoshop job^...not bad pay.

Well, I will be damned. Check's in the mail, rhm.

Hmmm..... Plastic toe clips? Do you actually use those?

Rudi is such a shameless weight weenie.

Well, I might, if it were my bike....

Most self extractor use a brass washer underneath so using one goes without saying, brazing one in could be even better.

I have broken a TA ND crank and my girlfriend cracked a ND stronglight 49D, I would guess there is a fair number of ND TA cranks out there that are cracked and could be used for the experiment, although they should come off easier because they are cracked. I think I have a TA dustcap I could send to the OP for shipping for the experiment, but I might have thrown it away. It had been slotted because the hex fitting was so buggered. I am willing to bet there are more than a couple out there like that.

Thanks cyclotoine. I would be willing to pay for the shipping if you can find them. I like playing around
What are they made of by the way? I suppose it's not aluminum. Chromed steel?

Yes chromed steel. I only have one dustcap (if I have it) and won't be able to look till next week. I could send you a ND stronglight crank-arm but the diameter is 23.35 so not really a suitable candidate for the experiment. The steel is pretty thin though so there is a good chance it wont hold as other's have pointed out. You would probably need to fabricate a washer that is just the right size to fit under the cap, such that it is really wedged in there. Do you have self extracting bolts already?

Yellow Jersey has genuine T.A. extractors with the Specialties T.A. logo.

It is as easy as pie. Self extractors are readily available on ebay for $12. I have titanium self extractors on my Vitus that were made by a machine shop in New Jersey.

For this crank?