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My 73 Raleigh makeover

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Old 08-17-13 | 05:47 PM
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From: Bellingham, WA

Bikes: 73 Raleigh Sport, 93 Giant Sedona

My 73 Raleigh makeover

Everyone has been so terrific with giving me advice I kinda feel like this is a group project so I thought I'd share. I have a green 23" Raleigh Sport that I am updating into a commuter. It cam to me in pretty good shape having been with the same owner since new but in its 40 years it hadn't really gotten much attention. Right now it's mostly disassembled while I rebuild the wheels, service the headset, replace the cables and generally fix it up and modernize where needed. I'm not someone that feels the need to keep it authentic. I appreciate folks that do but I don't.

So, I thought I'd post a little about what's in store and post pictures of the progress.

First off I am going with modern alloy rims. I have a couple of Sun CR-18 26 x 1 3/8 polished rims. I have a new Sturmey-Archer X-FDD dynohub+drum brake for the front and am servicing the SA AW 3 speed in the back (although I think I'll swap out for a 20 or 22 tooth cog). I realize the SA dyno+brake is a 100mm hub but in looking it it there are two space nuts on the hub that look like I can remove them and fit into a 90mm (or close) gap. I have some Tektro FL750 brake levers, cork grips and a Tektro BMX style caliper for the hear wheel. I have some slightly wider Northroad style alloy handlebars (they fit me more comfortably).

Right now I am contemplating servicing the bottom bracket. I know it's gonna be a royal pain but I know I probably have to do it. The other major thing is whether or not to get it powdercoated or painted. Right now I'm content to let it be. It's got pretty average scuffing and scratches for a 40 year old bike but as a commuter it's gonna get a lot of use and I'm not sure I want a nice shiny bike out there attracting too much attention. Most of the changes I'm making won't stand out once it's got a coat of dirt on it.

I'll try and post some photos of the different stages.
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Old 08-17-13 | 06:27 PM
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Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;

1) Do rebuild the bottom bracket.
2) Don't repaint it, unless the paint is really shot.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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Old 08-17-13 | 07:33 PM
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From: Bellingham, WA

Bikes: 73 Raleigh Sport, 93 Giant Sedona

Originally Posted by John E
1) Do rebuild the bottom bracket.
2) Don't repaint it, unless the paint is really shot.
That's pretty much the conclusion I had come to.
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Old 08-18-13 | 08:18 PM
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From: Lawrence, Kansas
Originally Posted by John E
1) Do rebuild the bottom bracket.
2) Don't repaint it, unless the paint is really shot.
I agree. Every old Raleigh that I have opened up has needed bottom bracket service. The good news is that the spindles and races are almost always in great shape - even when running in dried up grease and grit. Get a cotter press; it will make servicing them much easier.

A couple of other things to note, you will need a new stem to go with with a modern alloy North Road handlebar since the clamp diameters are different. I have replaced the self-adjusting levers with the older forged type. I think you will like them better than the Tektros, and they will look much better.

Finally, I have had one old Raleigh powdercoated. It had been re-painted poorly by the previous owner. While nice enough, I don't think it is as durable as claimed (flaking on the chainguard), and it just looks plastic-y. Once you do get a scuff, you can't really wax it out like paint. I have seen some really deteriorated Raleigh paint jobs come alive after an application of Meguirs Scratch X.

Good luck, and be sure to post photos.
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