Options to convert my 27 to 700c with appropriate brakes
08-22-13, 08:01 PM
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They were super nice. I just don't think they're fully aware of C&V stuff.
Those Tektro Silvers are super nice...
what's the model number on those?
my other concern is finding 700cs with 126mm spacing on the rear hub. I don't plan on going beyond 6 or 7 gears in the rear anyway... so I don't want to spread the frame.
I don't want to reuse my existing hubs. when I had them apart, the raceways were pretty badly worn.
I'd love to find some Shimano HB-1050s. they're freewheel and 126mm. I'd just have to learn how to lace wheels... and find proper rims.
Those Tektro Silvers are super nice...
what's the model number on those?
my other concern is finding 700cs with 126mm spacing on the rear hub. I don't plan on going beyond 6 or 7 gears in the rear anyway... so I don't want to spread the frame.
I don't want to reuse my existing hubs. when I had them apart, the raceways were pretty badly worn.
I'd love to find some Shimano HB-1050s. they're freewheel and 126mm. I'd just have to learn how to lace wheels... and find proper rims.
08-22-13, 08:09 PM
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I have a pair of Dia-Compe calipers that are very light and reach my 700c wheels no problem. If you're interested in them PM me.
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08-22-13, 08:56 PM
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...and Robbie knows his Centurions.
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08-22-13, 09:55 PM
#29
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Before you decide on new wheelsets, you will want to decide what width of tire you plan on running. The Sun M13II is relatively narrow, and is thus better suited to tires about 23-28 mm in width, or thereabouts. The CR18 is wider, and better suited to wider tires. Velomine has a similar set of wheels that also has the CR18 for a few bucks more.
08-23-13, 06:38 AM
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I'd like to go as wide as my frame will allow, to be honest.
08-23-13, 06:45 AM
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Road caliper brakes can really limit how easy it is to install tires. I couldn't get my 34mm tires in without letting out the air first. just something to think about. Having quick release brake levers does help though.
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08-23-13, 07:59 AM
#32
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If you use the Tektro brakes in conjunction with the Tektro Campy-copy levers, with the lever Q/Rs, you could probably get them in with no problems.
08-23-13, 08:22 AM
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Fitting anything larger than a 700x32 might not be possible and should not be needed. Getting a fat tire to fit between the chainstays on an older road-bike not be possible.
There are a dozen great CX tires in the 32mm wide size. I use the Kenda Happy Medium and think its a great all-around performer.
There are a dozen great CX tires in the 32mm wide size. I use the Kenda Happy Medium and think its a great all-around performer.
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When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
Last edited by Barrettscv; 08-23-13 at 08:31 AM.
08-23-13, 08:39 AM
#34
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that'd be fine. I don't need balloon tires or anything.
It's tight between the stays now with the 27 x 1 3/8" Kendas on there, but the 700Cs wouldn't extend so deep into the chainstays
It's tight between the stays now with the 27 x 1 3/8" Kendas on there, but the 700Cs wouldn't extend so deep into the chainstays
08-23-13, 08:40 AM
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I just made this conversion to a bike that had 27" wheels.
I had single pivot Dia Comp calipers that would fit, but I wanted dual pivot. The single pivot were weak in my opinion.
I considered the Tektros, but ended up with the Velo Orange Grand Cru long reach brakes (they are pricey but perform great, no regrets).
I drilled out the fork and brake bridge for the recessed installation. The two things I found challenging were finding 8mm drill bits. I never did and ended up using 5/16". The other was the drill for the back bridge. Some right-angle drills are too large. I used a Makita DA3010F that worked great.
Frankly, it was easy to do once I had what I needed.
I had single pivot Dia Comp calipers that would fit, but I wanted dual pivot. The single pivot were weak in my opinion.
I considered the Tektros, but ended up with the Velo Orange Grand Cru long reach brakes (they are pricey but perform great, no regrets).
I drilled out the fork and brake bridge for the recessed installation. The two things I found challenging were finding 8mm drill bits. I never did and ended up using 5/16". The other was the drill for the back bridge. Some right-angle drills are too large. I used a Makita DA3010F that worked great.
Frankly, it was easy to do once I had what I needed.
08-23-13, 09:19 AM
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I have not had a problem with 130 spacing (went from 7 to 9 speed) on my '89 miyata with 126mm. I did not cold set the frame, I just hand spread when putting the wheel on. that said there is not shortage of hubs with 126 spacing (used, NOS) ymmv
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08-23-13, 09:21 AM
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08-23-13, 09:56 AM
#38
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I just made this conversion to a bike that had 27" wheels.
I had single pivot Dia Comp calipers that would fit, but I wanted dual pivot. The single pivot were weak in my opinion.
I drilled out the fork and brake bridge for the recessed installation. The two things I found challenging were finding 8mm drill bits. I never did and ended up using 5/16". The other was the drill for the back bridge. Some right-angle drills are too large. I used a Makita DA3010F that worked great.
Frankly, it was easy to do once I had what I needed.
I had single pivot Dia Comp calipers that would fit, but I wanted dual pivot. The single pivot were weak in my opinion.
I drilled out the fork and brake bridge for the recessed installation. The two things I found challenging were finding 8mm drill bits. I never did and ended up using 5/16". The other was the drill for the back bridge. Some right-angle drills are too large. I used a Makita DA3010F that worked great.
Frankly, it was easy to do once I had what I needed.
+2
08-23-13, 10:08 AM
#39
What's this lever do?
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well, now it's just a budgetting process to get it done.
08-23-13, 10:35 AM
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If you want to know exactly which brakes to buy, you will need to measure your bike. Get a mm steel rule and measure from the center of where the brake bolts in to the center of the braking surface on the rim. Do this for both the frame and fork. This will give you the reach number you need before purchase. You can use the 27" wheels to measure, just add 4mm to your number. Your current brakes may work if you can slide the pads down 4mm. Anyway, here are some long reach nutted brakes for cheap:https://www.modernbike.com/itemgroup.asp?IGPK=2126175524. Not sure if they'll fit your needs as I didn't measure 
. Good luck.
. Good luck.
08-23-13, 11:48 AM
#42
What's this lever do?
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yeah, my brakes are pretty much all the way down:
not the greatest photo.
not the greatest photo.
10-03-13, 11:28 AM
#43
What's this lever do?
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I should mention, there was enough space to get it in there with these calipers.
I do want to upgrade my brake calipers though.
I'm looking at the method to install recessed style brakes onto the bike.
I'm confused by the process...
You widen just the rear hole of the front fork and use standard brakes
what are you doing at the rear exactly?
same thing?
What about the half moon washer?
I do want to upgrade my brake calipers though.
I'm looking at the method to install recessed style brakes onto the bike.
I'm confused by the process...
You widen just the rear hole of the front fork and use standard brakes
what are you doing at the rear exactly?
same thing?
What about the half moon washer?
Last edited by chapel; 10-03-13 at 11:31 AM.
10-03-13, 12:19 PM
#44
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https://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html
In order to mount the recessed brakes in the normal fashion, you only drill the side where the recessed nut will mount out to 8mm. Easy to do on the fork, less easy on the rear brake bridge since the seat tube is in the way. I did my Trek 400 frame by hand with a unibit and vicegrips, with some use of a dremel (POS Harbor Freight version) as well. The Trek 500 frame I got from my brother had been drilled all the way thru, but hasn't proven to be a problem. Still, if I was doing a frame, I would do it the right way and leave the brake caliper side at 6mm.
In order to mount the recessed brakes in the normal fashion, you only drill the side where the recessed nut will mount out to 8mm. Easy to do on the fork, less easy on the rear brake bridge since the seat tube is in the way. I did my Trek 400 frame by hand with a unibit and vicegrips, with some use of a dremel (POS Harbor Freight version) as well. The Trek 500 frame I got from my brother had been drilled all the way thru, but hasn't proven to be a problem. Still, if I was doing a frame, I would do it the right way and leave the brake caliper side at 6mm.
10-03-13, 12:35 PM
#45
What's this lever do?
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I would have to enlarge the half moon washer on one side too, right?
8mm is 5/16"?
I've seen that some people drill all the way through and use some sort of collar spacer too.
8mm is 5/16"?
I've seen that some people drill all the way through and use some sort of collar spacer too.
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