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Options to convert my 27 to 700c with appropriate brakes

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Old 08-22-13, 05:36 PM
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Options to convert my 27 to 700c with appropriate brakes

Brought my bike to the LBS and he was telling me I'd have a hard time finding a set of 700c wheels that would fit my Centurion AND find long reach brakes that work with the frame.
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Old 08-22-13, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by chapel
Brought my bike to the LBS and he was telling me I'd have a hard time finding a set of 700c wheels that would fit my Centurion AND find long reach brakes that work with the frame.
Centurion had a wide range of models.

In general, a 700c rim has a 4 mm smaller radius than a 27 " wheel rim. So, check that, if you can move the brake blocks down 4 mm, no problemo.

If you cannot, then advise us as to the model of brake and model of Centurion you have.
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Old 08-22-13, 05:48 PM
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And/or, keep the 27s. Not as many tire and rim choices but, I kind of like them.
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Old 08-22-13, 05:50 PM
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I have an 87 Centurion Sport DLX and BR-Z57 Shimano brakes.
He also advised me not to consider drilling for a recessed brake bolt.
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Old 08-22-13, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rootboy
And/or, keep the 27s. Not as many tire and rim choices but, I kind of like them.
the spokes are pretty badly corroded and apparently they're a little seized up so I can't true them.

I'm wondering if these brakes would work:
https://www.modernbike.com/itemgroup....FQyk4AodiXsAug
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Old 08-22-13, 05:58 PM
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Bet they would. Just have to measure.
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Old 08-22-13, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by chapel
the spokes are pretty badly corroded and apparently they're a little seized up so I can't true them.

I'm wondering if these brakes would work:
https://www.modernbike.com/itemgroup....FQyk4AodiXsAug
The Tektro Silvers worked fine on my Super Sport when I converted from 27" to 700c. The original Weinmann centerpulls didn't quite reach.



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Old 08-22-13, 06:13 PM
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The Tektro 559s you linked go down to 73mm. On the '85 Trek 400 I converted, I used Tektro 538s and they worked, barely. 57mm reach on those.

Is this the LBS guy that was telling you all kinds of BS about how you couldn't do this, get that, etc.?
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Old 08-22-13, 06:18 PM
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They were super nice. I just don't think they're fully aware of C&V stuff.
Those Tektro Silvers are super nice...
what's the model number on those?

my other concern is finding 700cs with 126mm spacing on the rear hub. I don't plan on going beyond 6 or 7 gears in the rear anyway... so I don't want to spread the frame.

I don't want to reuse my existing hubs. when I had them apart, the raceways were pretty badly worn.
I'd love to find some Shimano HB-1050s. they're freewheel and 126mm. I'd just have to learn how to lace wheels... and find proper rims.
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Old 08-22-13, 06:19 PM
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I have done a Nishiki and a univega from 27 to 700. the drilling out is nothing, the amount of metal removed is shaving (back hole in fork only)

Forgot the models of brakes but the nishki was shimano and the univega was tektro

It does not feel like the LBS guy really wants to do this.
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Old 08-22-13, 06:21 PM
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What model brakes are on the bike now?
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Old 08-22-13, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by chapel
I have an 87 Centurion Sport DLX and BR-Z57 Shimano brakes.
He also advised me not to consider drilling for a recessed brake bolt.
I would not drill a rear bridge for a recessed bolt. For a front fork, I think the Tekros do come in a nutted version. Scooper did not show the back side of his Schwinn, but I think it is nutted up front. If not, there are ways around that problem too without drilling the fork. Drilling the fork on the back side of the crown is not a big effort, nor is it super easy if you want to keep the holes in alignment.

As others have stated, not the most thoughtful advice from the local bike shop.
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Old 08-22-13, 06:28 PM
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Check out the current drop bolt thread for another possible option.
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Old 08-22-13, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by repechage
I would not drill a rear bridge for a recessed bolt. For a front fork, I think the Tekros do come in a nutted version. Scooper did not show the back side of his Schwinn, but I think it is nutted up front. If not, there are ways around that problem too without drilling the fork. Drilling the fork on the back side of the crown is not a big effort, nor is it super easy if you want to keep the holes in alignment.

As others have stated, not the most thoughtful advice from the local bike shop.
the way i did the brakes was the sheldon method. Drill out the rear hole of the fork (5/16 or 8 mm) use the rear brake with the short bolt and a long recessed nut to attach the brake. use the front brake with a nut for the rear brake.

as others have noted you can find nutted brakes also
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Old 08-22-13, 06:33 PM
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Tektro does sell a nutted conversion kit if you can't find the right ones in a nutted mounting

https://www.tektro-usa.com/category.p...productid=1178

Harris has long reach in a nutted mount:
https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brake...ers.html#55-73
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Old 08-22-13, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by squirtdad
I have done a Nishiki and a univega from 27 to 700. the drilling out is nothing, the amount of metal removed is shaving (back hole in fork only)

Forgot the models of brakes but the nishki was shimano and the univega was tektro

It does not feel like the LBS guy really wants to do this.
I would do the work myself. I was hoping to buy it from them though.

Originally Posted by Barrettscv
What model brakes are on the bike now?
Shimano BR-Z57

Originally Posted by repechage
I would not drill a rear bridge for a recessed bolt. For a front fork, I think the Tekros do come in a nutted version. Scooper did not show the back side of his Schwinn, but I think it is nutted up front. If not, there are ways around that problem too without drilling the fork. Drilling the fork on the back side of the crown is not a big effort, nor is it super easy if you want to keep the holes in alignment.

As others have stated, not the most thoughtful advice from the local bike shop.
I would prefer to use a nutted brakeset if available.
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Old 08-22-13, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by chapel

Shimano BR-Z57
The BR-Z57 are a 43-57 medium reach model. If you need greater reach, The Tektro R556 or R559 55-73 mm Reach Dual-Pivot Calipers will work: https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brake...ers.html#55-73
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Old 08-22-13, 06:51 PM
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so, what are those Tektro Silvers?

the other thing is going to be finding 700c 126mm freewheel wheelsets.
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Old 08-22-13, 06:57 PM
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Did you try Google-
"700c 126mm freewheel wheelsets."
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Old 08-22-13, 06:59 PM
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The Silvers are Rivendell, obviously made by Tektro for them. Google "rivendell silver brakes"
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Old 08-22-13, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
Did you try Google-
"700c 126mm freewheel wheelsets."
Yeah, I'm digging through it now. not cheap

Originally Posted by Pars
The Silvers are Rivendell, obviously made by Tektro for them. Google "rivendell silver brakes"
ah, ok. I was googling Tektro Silvers... but that just shows me... everything they make that is available in silver.
Thanks

they don't sell them on rivbike anymore... but it looks like the R559 are them now.

Last edited by chapel; 08-22-13 at 07:06 PM.
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Old 08-22-13, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by chapel
Those Tektro Silvers are super nice...
what's the model number on those?
They're R556.

Pars is right; I got them from Rivendell.

Originally Posted by squirtdad
I have done a Nishiki and a univega from 27 to 700. the drilling out is nothing, the amount of metal removed is shaving (back hole in fork only)
+1. Enlarging the rear hole of the fork to accommodate the recessed nut took 15 seconds.

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Old 08-22-13, 07:29 PM
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Here ya go...
https://www.velomine.com/index.php?ma...oducts_id=2114
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Old 08-22-13, 07:33 PM
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The rear brake mounting bolt is nutted; I didn't want to do any drilling on the bridge. You can clearly see the "R556" casting on the back of the caliper arm in this photo.

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Old 08-22-13, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Scooper
They're R556.

+1. Enlarging the rear hole of the fork to accommodate the recessed nut took 15 seconds.


Originally Posted by Scooper
The rear brake mounting bolt is nutted; I didn't want to do any drilling on the bridge. You can clearly see the "R556" casting on the back of the caliper arm in this photo.

But if you're using a nutted rear, I might as well go with the full nutted R559s. no need to fiddle with drilling if I'm just gonna buy a single set.

Originally Posted by David Newton
ah, that's not terrible. thanks.

I wonder what I can find locally and used that aren't knackered
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