hi there,

whle instaling a pair of Victory cranks on a customer's bike, the left hand crank bolt snapped off. I've heard these bolt were brittle and prone to breaking, but I'm still surprised.

The customer still would like the cranks so I need some advice. My standard 2 prong dust cap remover is a bit narrow and won't line up on the holes. Short of sourcing the campagnolo tool does any one have another trick to get the dust cap off? Let's say I get the dust cap off, what are my options? Do other systems, like Shimano work with the Campagnolo cranks?

I read up a bit and it seems that I can use a standard 15mm crank bolt, but will removeing the crank in the future will require a proprietary LH threaded extractor?

thanks!

You may be able to drive the cap off with a hammer and drift punch. Apply plenty of penetrating oil first and give it some time to soak in. Yes, you'll need the LH extractor tool if you do succeed in removing the cap, unless you're willing to try one of the less elegant solutions (gear puller, Jacobs chuck remover wedges, etc.).

sorry that happened to you. hope you get it worked out and the customer is understanding.

i use 14mm bolts so a standard socket will fit.

I have used an old spoke, with a 90 degree bend at the tip, insert that into the hole an drive a flat screwdriver on the inside elbow of the bent spoke, flush with the face of the little critter to be removed, GENTLY tap with hammer...it works...if you are careful

It should not be hard to remove the bolt as all the tension is relieved once the bolt snaps. Also, perhaps it's just the photo, but the crank bolt looks hallow; you have already drilled it for an "easy out"?
Presuming you snapped the self extracting 7mm allen bolt, I would not worry about a dust cover; just use one of these.



Also, since I have the Campy tool, I have not had to try and remove the self extracting ring with a spanner, but there are some adjustable spanners that I'm sure would do the job. Finally, all this is fine until your customer needs the crank arm removed for some purpose. He will either need a Campy reverse thread crank puller, which are still quite available or remove the self extractor ring/bolt from the drive side and use it on the left.

take the spindle out and put it on the bench...
a heatgun does wonders!

Find a Dura Ace 'peg spanner' (their techie name for a dust cap tool) and grind/file it to fit. I think these might be left handed caps.

+1 To BG: I use one of the Park Tool spanners, I think the black one. Line up the two pegs with either end of the dust cap. I used to chew up quite a few covers until I made this change.

thanks for all the replies. great advice here. i think i'll try two nails and the screwdriver /plier trick first as these things are readily available. i have a green park spanner for BBs but i think the pegs are too thick.

i have some shimano arabesque donor cranks which still have the self extracting bolt installed, but i think shimano used right hand thread for their dust caps. can anyone confirm that?

Yes i began drilling and then decided to snap a picture. i will use a left turning screw remover to try and remove the broken bolt..i'd hate to have to trash the BB.

Yes, Shimano is right threaded.

Red Park pin spanners have the smaller pins. Shimano's cap tool needs to have the insides of the pins ground to widen up the pins . Give the crank area around the cap a quick 2-3 second blast with heat from a propane torch and the caps will easily come off.

+1, If that is an original bolt, it will have loctite on the threads. Remove the spindle, get your heat gun out, heat the broken end before turning with the "easy out".

tried the "nail" method mentioned before with an adjustable wrench and the dust cap didn't budge. i'll check my trusted LBS to see if they have the proper campy tool.

another question, what kind of replacement bolt should i be looking for? found another self extracting bolt (it's black) in my spares box. would this work with the campy dust cap? just wondering if they all are designed similar.

I have worked on a few older Victory cranksets and they always worried while campy they just look like there almost ready to break from the start. While maybe a little costly and seriuos pain this should fairly easy to fix.

just came up on this tool called "circlip" pliers. the look like they'd do the trick. and not all that expensive. the ends are 1.6mm.

I forgot about those....I'll go measure the tip of my red Park tool....hold on.

Red measure 2.3mm
Green measure 3.0mm

The right angle circlip plier should work.

so i made my rounds today and hit up a few shops. nobody had the campy specific tool and in one shop, we managed to break his circlip pliers, so the verdict is out. the steel dust cap has very likely bonded to the aluminum.

but just to be sure, we should be turning right to loosen? the dust cap threads in opposite, righty loosey, lefty tighty so to say?

i don't own a heat gun or torch, so i'll stop by another shop who has helped me out with stuck parts before. now it starts to get interesting. i'l lreturn soon with an update.

Victory cranks? Aren't they regular 'ole right hand thread like most other cranks? I know some Campy cranks have that odd ball left hand thread on the nds but isn't that on the later cranks with self extractors? Money in the bank says its regular right hand thread and all you've been doing is tightening it. Heat with propane torch for a 2 or 3 seconds and it'll come off.

Rideone...send me the crank arm and I'll get the cap off, all it'll cost you is shipping to and from Tampa. Maybe $10 round trip. Oh...Berlin, Germany or Delaware?

I think the normal crank bolts take an 8mm hex, while the self extractors use 7mm? Could be wrong...

Yes, they are reverse thread and can be heck to remove without the tool (the holes in the ring are only 2mm). Usually if you find a pair of circlip pliers with that small a pin, you'll snap one of the pins before the ring comes loose. The Campagnolo tool has 1.5mm pins and since it fits right over the ring, it makes it very easy to remove. . Here is the tool (from Velobase .com) and I have an extra one if you want to borrow it; no charge just shipping to and back.

How much money in the bank are we talking? The Victory cranks indeed came with reverse threads and require a reverse thread crank tool if you for some reason can not use the self extractor. While I have heard that there was a later style that did away with the reverse threading, I've never seen such an animal. I previously owned a 1985 version and currently have a 1991 version, both have reverse threading; that is for the self extracting ring, not the crank bolt. Also, as I mentioned before, it's highly unlikely the self extracting ring is seized and needs a heat source to loosen it. Assuming the OP has been trying to turn the self extracting ring clockwise to loosen, he is doing it right. The problem is using any tool that creates any side loading, makes these rings bind. The correct tool (see above) sits over the top of the ring so it doesn't have the side loading problem and usually unscrews with surprising little force. Also the other poster in #20 is correct, the crank bolt uses a 7mm allen wrench.

I was thinking the same ole thing.

thanks miamijim and onespeedbiker. unfortunately i'm located in berlin germany. shipping can't be all that expensive for such a small part, but there is risk in trusting the USPS. i'll have to search for the proper tool then, because all the attempts at removing the dust cap have left their marks on an otherwise perfect crank and it would be a shame to do more damage. there's one shop in mind that should have it. only the proprietor is often way too cocky for my taste and i refuse to give him my business. if anyone has the tool for sale, then I might consider buying it.

hm. 32 euro is a bit pricey for a tool i'll probably only have to use once.

https://www.defietsenmaker.nl/index.p...d=2037&lang=EN

might just do it though.