Everyone

Any suggestions on how to remove this type of headset? I do not have a wrench that fits the grooves...

Thanks for any help.

If you tighten the race down will it break loose from the spacer?

I have to admit that I remove and/or snug down these lockrings using slip-joint plumber's pliers.

These don't usually appear on hi-end collector bikes, so the "rider" bikes go on happily in life with perhaps a bit of a chrome blemish there.

I've never seen a proper tool for these, but a lockring spanner as used on a bottom bracket would need to have a very different radius to fit (and not slip) on one of these stupid rings.

If only the Japanese headset makers would have taken a cue from the French designs and used the toothed retaining rings atop a threaded/toothed headset top race.

[QUOTE=dddd;16684987]I have to admit that I remove and/or snug down these lockrings using slip-joint plumber's pliers.


That's what I use also, however I wrap an old rag around the jaws of the pliers to help avoid marring the chrome. Works well for me.

If, when you say "grooves", you mean the square notches, I know just what you need. My 1985 Nishiki Riviera has a 3-notch design at the headset & the curve was too tight to use my Park Tool bottom bracket tool with the "tooth" at one end. However Hozan makes a double ended lockring tool with a very small radius at one end (they're sold under BOTTOM BRACKET tools). It worked great! Here's a link:

Universal Cycles -- Hozan Lockring Tool

Hozan Lock ring pliers are also a very useful tool and would work, but twice as much.

Heres a link to the Hozan lock ring pliers. My local bike shop swears by these.
Universal Cycles -- Hozan Lockring Pliers

+1 Get a lock ring tool, or take it to the LBS. To me, not having the right tool means either buying the right tool or paying someone to do it. Since I like tools, I prefer the buy the tool option. A decent lock ring tool is needed for several jobs.

The Hozan tool is excellent, but Park also makes a fixed cup tool with a lock ring spanner on the other end.

screwdriver and a hammer

Why did I forget to mention this?

This is the way I did it for years, but I guess maybe the plumbers pliers feels faster in recent times.

I often work late into the night, which also skews my preference away from using a hammer.

One thing about lockrings and headset locknuts is that they flex in response to tightening forces from tools.

So, if the lockring/locknut material (aluminum?), or the tool interface limits the application of torque, one can get these things to stay put by repositioning the jaws to different positions around the nut/ring, with each successive tightening allowing the flexible nut/ring to creep a bit further towards tightness. I find this useful for preserving the new condition of nice alloy headset top nuts.
It works the same way with my old-fashioned drill chuck, where I can get the best grip on the drill bit by securing the chuck from each of the three pinion holes, thus pushing the gear ring from different directions so as to settle more fully toward tightness on the bit.

But I agree that the lockring pliers look like they would do the best job with the least effort.

I'm sure everyone hates to admit it. We all want to be top notch mechanics, but we've all used the flat screw driver and hammer trick a few times. Especially on those not so nice bikes.

[MENTION=109949]wrk101[/MENTION] - that Park Tool that you mention will work if the notches are wide enough. I have one and the width of the spanner end are slightly too wide for the notches in the (my) headset.

I love tools too and the Hozan Lockring Pliers are on my wish list.

Make sure the screwdriver is angled into the slot and give it a nice, quick, solid whack.

That's not a spacer, it's a lockring. Lockring spanner is the preferred tool:

@ JohnDThompson - I would like to have that tool. What is the brand? Are they still available? I would loved to have had one.

Lifu & Ice toolz both sell this tool, it's not very expensive. I have two - one came in a set with other Lifu branded tools in a moulded grey plastic case, cost around £30 GBP for the set. The other identical Ice toolz version I bought as a spare at a discount bicycle accessory event for, I think, £3 GBP.

It would take a midwesterner to provide the effective and low cost solution!

ha ha. yep little bit of redneck injinuity. i'm careful though. i dont use the BIG hammer. That ones for bottom brackets only.

Honda motorcycles used to come with a small tool kit. The Hondas that had adjustable rear shocks came with a spanner to adjust those shocks. The Hondas are long gone but I still have a few of the spanners. If you can find one of those, it would probably fit your headset ring.

@ oddjob2 - we're pretty resourceful out here on the west coast too. A screwdriver & a hammer were the first things I tried. I believe I used a piece if inner tube to protect the chrome on the locknut. It didn't budge!

wrap it with a cloth and use a pipe wrench