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Another stumbling point quill stem size ???

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Another stumbling point quill stem size ???

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Old 07-19-14 | 11:03 AM
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Another stumbling point quill stem size ???

Starting to assemble my dad's Carlton acquired a good bit of parts having issue with the stem fit. I purchased a new 22.2 quill stem it is what I measured with the calipers from the original stem size. When I removed the original I fought getting it out of the fork steer for a solid 2 hours.... I originally thought it was due to chemical bonding but thinking it was to big and forced in. The new stem with a 22.2 diameter in no way going to fit without beating it in, the fork steer measures 21.7 mm ??? I know a quill stem of 21.15 mm is available will this be to small ??

Not sure what I should do I like the stem I purchased and the new bars I bought to fit... Chances of finding a correct stem to fit the bar clamp I don't know. Can the new stem and wedge be machined down ??

KF
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Old 07-19-14 | 05:06 PM
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you can easily sand down stem quills and seatposts with a 200 grade sandpaper. you may need to deanodize the component first using oven off or a similar product with lye.

i did this recently for a seatpost, and it worked just fine. i'll use it in the frame, but i went a little too far with the sanding. the problem was, i used a low grade paper and kept trying the post in the frame, moving back and forth between sanding and fitting until it fit snuggly. but then i needed to use a higher grade paper to remove the scratches from the rough stuff. by the time i finished sanding the scracthes out of the post, i had taken even more diameter off, and it slipped in the frame a little too well. so i should have stopped with the rough sanding much earlier. it works, but i would prefer a more snug fit.
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Old 07-19-14 | 05:58 PM
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The difference between 22.2mm and 21.7mm is .5mm or .020". On a cyclindrical workpiece, that would be a cut of .010". Easy-peasey work for a metal lathe but a lot of sanding by hand, and hand sanding would likely result in an out-of-round part. Problem with doing it in a lathe is that the stem is an odd shape so is hard to hold in the lathe chuck without special fixturing and setup. A good machinist could do it but would probably charge more that you'd want to spend unless he were a hobbyist who really got interested in the project. Machine shop time is billed at about $100 and hour. Might be easier to find a shop that can ream the steerer tube with an adjustable parallel reamer.
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Old 07-19-14 | 07:22 PM
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You can't return the stem and bars where you bought them?
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Old 07-19-14 | 09:10 PM
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Got it figured out. The inside of the steerer tube had a bit of a lip formed on the inside somehow. A little work with a round file on the steerer and some light sanding of the quill where i scratched it trying to install it the first time and it is a nice easy fit.

Thanks everyone for always helping me figure it out.

KF
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