Aero Brake and Front Canti?
01-05-15 | 05:26 PM
#1
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From: NE Ohio
Bikes: 1992 Serotta Colorado II,Co-Motion Speedster, Giant Escape Hybrid, 1977 Schwinn Super Le Tour
Aero Brake and Front Canti?
I was wondering if anyone has a pic, I could not seem to find one, of the cable/housing routing from an aero brake lever to the front canti? The Miyata 610 that I am working on has a bracket on the headset but I am not sure I can make the bend.
Thanks!
Thanks!
01-05-15 | 09:22 PM
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From: Boston, MA
Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through
Fork crown mounted brake cable hanger
01-06-15 | 07:00 AM
#6
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From: Scranton, PA, USA
Bikes: '77 Centurion "Pro Tour"; '67 Carlton "The Flyer"; 1984 Ross MTB (stored at parents' house)
The issue isn't so much the size of the frame as it is the length of the stem that is exposed and the reach of the stem.
I have one that is fairly tight in that regard and I made it work with modern cables and housings by running it out the back of the handlebar. I ran the cable from the front to the back by running it under the bar and it doesn't interfere with my hands at all.
It's a centerpull brake, but that's irrelevant.
If it was any tighter, I'd probably have to be creative with a V-brake noodle.
I have one that is fairly tight in that regard and I made it work with modern cables and housings by running it out the back of the handlebar. I ran the cable from the front to the back by running it under the bar and it doesn't interfere with my hands at all.
It's a centerpull brake, but that's irrelevant.
If it was any tighter, I'd probably have to be creative with a V-brake noodle.
01-06-15 | 01:00 PM
#7
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From: Saint Louis
Bikes: Guerciotti, Serotta, Gaulzetti
Unrelated, but what kind of front rack is that?
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"Party on comrades" -- Lenin, probably
01-06-15 | 09:27 PM
#10
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From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
There are fittings that drop onto the cable hanger like nlerner's. These fitting are brass and are basically a bent pipe that incorporate the typical plug that fits into the hanger and a socket at the top for the housing. Bend is around 45 degrees. I took mine and bent it further, to as close as I could to 90 degrees without closing off the inside. (I run long stems that are slammed down.)
I have had mine for probably 20+ years and have no idea what it is called.
They are not ideal. There is a fair amount of friction. I grease the cable a lot and that helps. Still, they work. Mine has been serving me on my workhorse for those years, 20,000+ miles and every winter and required very little thought except when changing cables.
Ben
I have had mine for probably 20+ years and have no idea what it is called.
They are not ideal. There is a fair amount of friction. I grease the cable a lot and that helps. Still, they work. Mine has been serving me on my workhorse for those years, 20,000+ miles and every winter and required very little thought except when changing cables.
Ben
01-07-15 | 06:41 PM
#11
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From: Somerville, MA and Catskill Mtns
This is essentially the same problem another person posted about yesterday, to which I replied:
It really depends more on how much stem height you have than head tube length. I have several bikes with either cantis or centerpulls, necessitating a headset-mounted hanger. These are on bikes with various stem heights and hbar styles. The one with the tightest cable housing bend is the one bike that I have with aero cable routing. Here is a pick that sorta captures the bend:
I happen to know the vertical distance from the housing stop to the bottom of the stem is about 55mm, if that helps. I've seen bends even tighter than that, and you can also get hangers that include a noodle-style stop that introduces a 45 degree or so bend to take that stress off the housing itself.
The fork-mount hangers, as mentioned already, also work well and in some circumstances even better than headset hangers-- the fork mounts can fix brake judder problems caused by extra long head tubes or ultralight steerer tubes. The bike shown in this photo suffers from brake judder at high speed, and I may switch to a fork-mounted hanger.
I happen to know the vertical distance from the housing stop to the bottom of the stem is about 55mm, if that helps. I've seen bends even tighter than that, and you can also get hangers that include a noodle-style stop that introduces a 45 degree or so bend to take that stress off the housing itself.
The fork-mount hangers, as mentioned already, also work well and in some circumstances even better than headset hangers-- the fork mounts can fix brake judder problems caused by extra long head tubes or ultralight steerer tubes. The bike shown in this photo suffers from brake judder at high speed, and I may switch to a fork-mounted hanger.
01-07-15 | 06:45 PM
#12
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From: Somerville, MA and Catskill Mtns
01-07-15 | 07:30 PM
#15
I've used these many times with success. Unless you want a long straddle cable, these work fine and allow a more natural housing bend and less exposed cable. aside from that I will change where the housing exits the wrap, etc.,,,,BD
Tektro Front Cable Hanger Canti Fork Mount, Silver @ eBikeStop.com
Tektro Front Cable Hanger Canti Fork Mount, Silver @ eBikeStop.com
01-07-15 | 07:58 PM
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01-07-15 | 08:04 PM
#18
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01-13-15 | 02:31 AM
#20
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From: In The Woods, PA
Bikes: 1970s Peugeot UO-8, 1980 Peugeot PXN10E "Super Competition", 1985-86? Miyata 610, 2012 Trek 3500 Mtn Bike, late 1800s project build/bike (will it ever get finished?..your guess is as good as mine! HA!),etc...
I just routed my front cable on my '83 Miyata 610 earlier this evening,...I'm using Jagwire racewire with compressionless housing,...seems to take a bend pretty well, better than traditional cable housing. I ran aero levers on my Peugeot UO-8 and it was much easier because the Peugeot has a very low drop to the cable holder bracket, not like this shallow Shimano on my Miyata!
Not sure if I'll keep it like this and tape it up or what?
Not a big fan of the teflon coated black cables,...but if it reduces friction then I may as well go with it! I can switch out the cable if I so choose to, at a later date.
**Note,...I did this at about 1am,..and realized, oh crap,.. I ran the left lever on the right ,..thus the the cables being seen on the outside rather than the inside as they should be!!!!***
Not sure if I'll keep it like this and tape it up or what?
Not a big fan of the teflon coated black cables,...but if it reduces friction then I may as well go with it! I can switch out the cable if I so choose to, at a later date.
**Note,...I did this at about 1am,..and realized, oh crap,.. I ran the left lever on the right ,..thus the the cables being seen on the outside rather than the inside as they should be!!!!***
Last edited by RiseAlways; 01-13-15 at 05:09 PM.
01-13-15 | 10:36 AM
#22
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From: In The Woods, PA
Bikes: 1970s Peugeot UO-8, 1980 Peugeot PXN10E "Super Competition", 1985-86? Miyata 610, 2012 Trek 3500 Mtn Bike, late 1800s project build/bike (will it ever get finished?..your guess is as good as mine! HA!),etc...
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