Whoops, looks like I was a bit distracted. Nice Rockhopper​!

I've been thinking about it. I'm going to get it set up as a MTB for now, especially because I would need to special order another stem for drop bars. I have the shifters installed in a way that is most definitely not correct or best, but is good enough for now. I prefer drops on even my MTBs.

Have a Stumpjumper from that era that I put the finishing touches on about a week ago. Design's about the same as for the Rockhopper, but the CrMo is heat-treated and the frame's made in Japan. The thing nobody ever tells you about these bikes is how well they handle in singletrack. I learned that first hand when I had the bike out at Marsh Creek for shakedown.

I probably ought to post a few pictures of the thing for reference purposes.

Yeah that'd be sweet! I had a Rockhopper in high school I used for everything and loved it. I ride mostly XC and single-track which is why I prefer the nimbleness of rigids.

Now, naturally, I'm having adjustment issues with the cantis. Is there an easier way to get these things to stay put?? I get it as close as I can, but then one brake pad is always rubbing on the rim.

Can you balance the spring force using the adjuster screws on the brake arms?

My experience with canti adjustment is that I needed to adjust 3 or 4 times before it settled down. Lubing the appropriate parts helps along with have a rim that is true. The design does not have a fixed reference point for the cabling near the calipers, which contributes to the problem.

Thanks for the feedback on the fork, [MENTION=124730]SJX426[/MENTION]. Helpful as always.

Ah, canti adjustment...try, try again...

This is what I was afraid of. I'll have to just give it my best effort. I'll report on my progress haha.

@Crawford53. I was just re-reading this thread and realized that one of my approaches is to screw the adjustments down as far as they can go then back off to get them even. This allows for the spring tension to be at the max which helps minimize the impact of external forces causing one side or the other to rub.

I also realized that I need to read my post before replying to check for spelling and grammar!

WRT the suspension fork. I bought the bike with a rigid fork because I couldn't afford the high priced version. The bike was on sale as a year-end or left over model year bike. I liked that it had a 1 1/8" steerer so I could add a suspension fork later. This was in 1998. In about 2005 I decided to start looking for a used fork because new ones were more than I wanted to pay for the features I wanted, lock out. The other problem was that most of the steerer tubes were cut way too short. This one was untouched. It is a 2003 Marzzochi Bomber SL air suspension model. It even came with a pump with the little plastic adapter. Really nice fork.

After purchasing it, I bought a Crane headset with an extra crown race so both forks are interchangeable. Change over is about 20 min.

Oh and the disk is great with not adjustments needed! Found that assembly, BB7, NOS in the box for $35 on CL. Wheel was $50 with XTR hub at a Coop.

A web search for Sheldon Brown + cantilever setup should return some helpful advice on both theory and technique/procedure.

Thanks for all the advice/resources about the brakes! Positive update: as of about an hour ago, I have sourced just about the dream set up for the rockhopper! Went to my LBS and found a midge bar just hanging out, deore front and rear derailluer and a double crankset (which is much more appropriate than the biopace), and a new adjustable stem with removalable faceplate all for $40. Granted, it's all used gear but that's just my pace anyway. Pictures to follow, my phone/ipad connection is being stupid.

Hopefully the midge bars will work better as a gravel-grinder than the flat bars I have on there now, and work more seamlessly with the funky accushift shifters I have. Lord knows fitting them on flat bars was a weird and bad look. I'm going to go with the advice listed here and adjust the canti's all the way down then back them off to get max spring tension.

ALSO- by getting these new (to me) components, it means that I can put my 1992 Marin Bear Valley back together and put back on the road for my fiancee to use. Although I still need to source another wheelset.

Awesome you found some nice components. Post pictures soon. I couldn't get my Midges into the Kalloy dirt drop stem to save my life.

From what I understand midges have been out of stock forever and aren't very cheap. My LBS sold me them for 15, so I can't complain.

Midge bars

Deore bottom-pull front derailluer and rear derailluer

No name adjustable quill stem and double shimano MTB crankset

So I know it's been a while, but I finally finished the build (for now)! I've got to replace the stem, pedals and seat with something better and add all my preferred accessories but it is up and running at least. Working full time with full time nursing school doesn't leave all that much time for wrenching

Looks great if you ask me. I saw all of the snow and thought "huh, looks like CT..."

^Guess it is

Your bike looks fantastic! I like that you did matching tape, bottle cage to match the lettering. What size is it? How's the ride?

I've got an all black '90 Trek 930 with the same bars and its a 16.5". Super nimble and quick. My '88 Rockhopper Comp is 17" and I prefer that size.

Thanks! I'm not huge on perfect aesthetics, but I thought it was a nice touch. It's a 15", I'm pretty compact so that is what works best for me, at least with Rockhoppers. My Marin Bear Valley is 17", and it fits like a glove. Go figure.

The ride is AWESOME. It's responsive and fast, just what I like. I was surprised at it's trudging ability, I was able to just go through the mud/snow/slush without a second thought, no slipping at all. I have to find some less aggressive tread, since the 'Hopper's main job will be commuting.

That looks great.

Mine says hi.

These all look great. Here is a 94 Rockhopper I just fixed up. It was neglected for a very long time and I brought it back to life. I didn't bargain on becoming an expert in vintage forks, but I had to figure out if I could use this fork for trail rides. I'm glad I got it working, otherwise I was thinking a modern fork and a canti to v-brake conversion. I just like the pure vintage look, and it really does hold up on the trails. It's a real blast from the past.

I bought a 92/93 Rockhopper frameset and just built it up yesterday. I built it up with a Hollowtech II Deore single-ring crankset, a mid-90's Shimano rear derailleur, wheels and 7-speed 11-28 cassette from a 1995 Trek 820, 55mm Big Apple tires, a new Acera front V-brake I had sitting around and odds and ends for the rest of it. The only original components are most of the headset and the seatpost clamp.

I think this is the nicest riding bike I've ever owned. I've got other bikes with similar geometry so I think the difference may be stiffness. The Rockhopper is the one bike that appears to have larger main triangle tubes, especially the top-tube. Also, the chainstays look massive compared to my other bikes, even other 90's MTB's. I'm a 400 lb rider so I put a lot of stress on a frame and I'm thinking maybe the Rockhopper is just a little more stiff than the others, so it feels better to me.

The only issue I have is that it's too small. I have a huge amount of seatpost showing and a high quill adapter, a 25 degree stem and hi-rise handlebars. Looks goofy but a larger size (which I've been watching for) would likely be too long in the top-tube for me. This one is stretching out more than I like. I keep thinking that a 26" Long Haul Trucker is the answer to my prayers but it just doesn't look that stout where it counts (particularly around the bottom bracket). I think my only recourse is to go custom, which I already want to do, but it will really stretch out the wait. I'll probably go with a custom R&E UTB or a custom Co-Motion Pangea. Jan Heine bringing out 26" x 55 mm high performance tires really sealed the deal for me.

This is an older image from where I threw some parts on it shortly after buying it:





Here's a small size R&E UTB. Note the large chainstays behind the bottom bracket and the ovalized and way oversized downtube!

TK1971, which stem did you use? I am looking at a similar build. Very nice!