shift cable head stuck in shifter
#1
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From: on the beach
Bikes: '73 falcon sr, '76 grand record, '84 davidson
shift cable head stuck in shifter
it's been a helluva day. about a week ago, in three nice old bikes i bought in a group (two of them, columbus frames), i started with three stuck stems, a stuck seatpost bolt, stuck crank bolt, and these two stuck shift cables. today, i finally freed the seatpost bolt and last of the stems. it took all the strength i had to get that last cinelli stem out of the trek 930 steerer. whew... i'm nearly spent.
so now i'm dealing with the last of the stuck ****. i tried freeze off in the shifters, but it ain't happ'nin'. guess i'll turn to the drill. if you've tried this yourself, fill me in on the how-to, if you please.

it was the left shift cable on both that was stuck.
so now i'm dealing with the last of the stuck ****. i tried freeze off in the shifters, but it ain't happ'nin'. guess i'll turn to the drill. if you've tried this yourself, fill me in on the how-to, if you please.
it was the left shift cable on both that was stuck.
#3
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From: northern michigan
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
It's lead.....get a soldering iron up in there to help you clear it out but dont get the alloy to hot. But that may be a last resort.
#6
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From: Westfield, MA
Bikes: 1983 Univega Gran Turismo, 1970 Schwinn Super Sport, 2001 Univega Modo Vincere, Self-Built Nashbar Touring, 1974 Peugeot U08, 1974 Atala Grand Prix, 1986 Ross Mt. Hood, 80's Maruishi MT-18
+1 on the small nail and hammer.
#10
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From: northern michigan
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
Well there ya go then!
I would grab that 15.00 needle-ended kind from radio shack (before it closes). I have one and why it came to mind. This would be one of those "err on the side of caution" posts for me.
Makes me want to check my NR shifters, now.
I would grab that 15.00 needle-ended kind from radio shack (before it closes). I have one and why it came to mind. This would be one of those "err on the side of caution" posts for me.
Makes me want to check my NR shifters, now.
#11
I had the same problem with the as me suntour shifter. That's a cyclone I believe? I tried all but in the end I had to drill it out. I used a small drill bit first, then a step up making sure not to drift off and hit the inside of the shifter. It will want to do this as you will hit the cable end in the barrel end. Good luck. Cyclones are just so cool.
#12
What??? Only 2 wheels?


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Two years ago I picked up a cheap Simplex levers described as having a stuck cable end.The PO had mangled the cable before breaking it off just enough to make access to the end itself impossible. I tried punching it out then drilling it out. No go. Didn't try heat lest it melt off the plastic coating on the lever. I gave up.
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
jimmuller
#13
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From: northern michigan
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
I had the same problem with the as me suntour shifter. That's a cyclone I believe? I tried all but in the end I had to drill it out. I used a small drill bit first, then a step up making sure not to drift off and hit the inside of the shifter. It will want to do this as you will hit the cable end in the barrel end. Good luck. Cyclones are just so cool.
+1 on Cyclone.
#15
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From: northern michigan
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
#16
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From: Port Angeles, WA
Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.
I've done it both ways: drill into the little lead knobbie until it sort of falls apart, or cut the cable flush on the other side and use a really skinny nail to push it out.
Nowadays I'm careful to sand down the molding marks on new cable ends so they don't jam into the hole that holds them, but rather fit loosely.
Nowadays I'm careful to sand down the molding marks on new cable ends so they don't jam into the hole that holds them, but rather fit loosely.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#17
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From: on the beach
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tried the nail bit, but no go ... at least for the campy shifter. i think i did more damage to my thumb than the cable.
ridin' down to harbor freight tomorrow to buy my first rotary tool and drill bits. can't beat $10 for an 80-piece rotary set with polishing fittings too.
ridin' down to harbor freight tomorrow to buy my first rotary tool and drill bits. can't beat $10 for an 80-piece rotary set with polishing fittings too.
#18
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From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
I have filed many of them down, and the rate of cut along with the coloration says zinc to me.
It might take a lot of heat to melt these ends, but can't hurt to apply a soldering tip, with perhaps a bit of flux and solder to transmit heat initially.
The heat may loosen the grip on the cable end even if it doesn't melt, and a penetrant can be applied while the parts are still warm.
I usually just use a penetrant before struggling further with stuck cable ends, as often the cable end is inside of an integrated shifter.
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