Threadless Stem on a C&V
#51
Jeff did make this stem. Weigle's next bike which is in the jig right now will have a threadless stem, but it will be a stock Nitto sold by Compass. It's also going to get a Velo Lumino stem switch for the lighting system.
Anton
velolumino.com
Anton
velolumino.com
Did Jeff make this stem or is the nitto ui7 painted to match? and he just brazed that bit on?
also, lots of harsh in this thread. i have a classic build coming up soon in the lineup and the builder choose to use a threadless stem. I am looking for the right stem to use, the VO and nitto look the part. the constructeur bikes i find look very appropriate with a matching threadless stem. If Weigle and Herse do it from time to time...
also, some of us are picky on bar selection, and moving to 31.8 bars open huge amounts of choice.
also, lots of harsh in this thread. i have a classic build coming up soon in the lineup and the builder choose to use a threadless stem. I am looking for the right stem to use, the VO and nitto look the part. the constructeur bikes i find look very appropriate with a matching threadless stem. If Weigle and Herse do it from time to time...
also, some of us are picky on bar selection, and moving to 31.8 bars open huge amounts of choice.
#52
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I've seen some examples that this has worked out well on --- I have seen some pics In the Centurion Ironman thread of old IM's with modern groups and threadless setups , and it looked good,
but those had the whole kit -- modernish wheels , brifter groups , etc.
On the OP's bike (or what we can see of it) -- I'd rather use a Technomic if getting some more height was needed
but those had the whole kit -- modernish wheels , brifter groups , etc.
On the OP's bike (or what we can see of it) -- I'd rather use a Technomic if getting some more height was needed
#53
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From: Los Angeles
Bikes: 78 Masi Criterium, 68 PX10, 2016 Mercian King of Mercia, Rivendell Clem Smith Jr
Zombie thread, but I'll comment anyway... I think it can work, but try to exercise some taste. I'm pretty happy with how a threadless stem and adapter looks on the PX10 I'm currently rebuilding. I do think you have to go with silver though, or matching paint. Black with white logos/graphics is never going to work aesthetically, for me at least.
Also, let's not forget Alex Singer and probably others were using threadless stems decades ago.

Sorry for the bad phone pic, but you get the idea.
Also, let's not forget Alex Singer and probably others were using threadless stems decades ago.
Sorry for the bad phone pic, but you get the idea.
#54
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Second, I may need to chat with you soon about a couple lighting setups... still trying to decide what i want to do.
all the best
#55
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From: Berkeley CA
Bikes: 1981 Ron Cooper, 1974 Cinelli Speciale Corsa, 1975 Alex Singer, 2000 Gary Fisher Sugar 1, 1986 Miyata 710, 1982 Raleigh "International", 1985 Trek 720
OK, let me just sneak in and say:
1. Quill stems are beautiful.
2. Threadless stems are not.
3. End of story.
OK, I admit that some custom threadless stems can be made up to look not quite as hideous as most of them, but that's as far as I'm willing to go. Flame away!
1. Quill stems are beautiful.
2. Threadless stems are not.
3. End of story.
OK, I admit that some custom threadless stems can be made up to look not quite as hideous as most of them, but that's as far as I'm willing to go. Flame away!
#56
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Bikes: 78 Masi Criterium, 68 PX10, 2016 Mercian King of Mercia, Rivendell Clem Smith Jr
OK. 
Quill stems were always a weak design. They eventually will kill the steer tube if the bike is ridden long enough. They do of course have the obvious advantage of easily adjustable height.
I'm not convinced that threadless stems are inherently ugly, though I actually do concede that the vast majority are hideous. That most quill stems looked nice was mostly because of the design sensibility of the times. Certainly there were also some hideous quill stems by the late 80s.

Quill stems were always a weak design. They eventually will kill the steer tube if the bike is ridden long enough. They do of course have the obvious advantage of easily adjustable height.
I'm not convinced that threadless stems are inherently ugly, though I actually do concede that the vast majority are hideous. That most quill stems looked nice was mostly because of the design sensibility of the times. Certainly there were also some hideous quill stems by the late 80s.
#57
Disco Infiltrator




Joined: May 2013
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From: Folsom CA
Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem
I'm not fond of the setup on my Cannondale. The adapter I found was pretty heavy steel and does not allow for a stem cap. I picked the stem because it was branded Cannondale but it was designed to line up with a sloping top tube and it's not level. The bar came with the stem and also says Cannondale but I don't much like it either after trying it.
This bike came with a polished hatchet stem and anatomic handlebar. I found a dinged up black hatchet stem and painted it yellow, a Bianchi branded anatomic handlebar that I painted flat black, and will try that next. Someday eventually.
Photo from during build, yes I know the front brake is not connected.
Untitled by Darth Lefty, on Flickr
This bike came with a polished hatchet stem and anatomic handlebar. I found a dinged up black hatchet stem and painted it yellow, a Bianchi branded anatomic handlebar that I painted flat black, and will try that next. Someday eventually.
Photo from during build, yes I know the front brake is not connected.
Untitled by Darth Lefty, on Flickr
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#58
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Bikes: '73 falcon sr, '76 grand record, '84 davidson
my bikes are pretty old and are ridden a lot.
when you say "kill," does this render the old bike useless? can it be fixed?
if a reynolds 531 bike is from 1973, for example, when will its steerer be killed?
#59
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From: Los Angeles
Bikes: 78 Masi Criterium, 68 PX10, 2016 Mercian King of Mercia, Rivendell Clem Smith Jr
I pretty much agree with these opinions and observations:
Threadless Steerers and Headsets by Jobst Brandt
Last edited by Salamandrine; 02-15-16 at 12:33 AM.
#60
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From: Canada
Specifically, the steering tube will tend to bulge out after a long time, and then it's in danger of fatigue cracking. Can't be fixed other than by brazing in a new one. It's not the age, it's the miles, and probably the size of the rider and terrain the bike was ridden on. Honestly, 99.9% of people don't have to worry about it. Think 50,000+ miles. (see what i mean.... ) Just inspect the steer tube as it is very obvious when it sets in.
I pretty much agree with these opinions and observations:
Threadless Steerers and Headsets by Jobst Brandt
I pretty much agree with these opinions and observations:
Threadless Steerers and Headsets by Jobst Brandt
#61
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My '54 Hetchins has a threadless stem, because the integrated headset effectively requires it. I get the negative aesthetics of clashing colors and/or design sensibilities between adjoining components. I also get that threadless is much more common today than it was "back-in-the-day", but characterizing threadless as "not vintage", is not accurate.
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#62
#63
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Well i suppose thats pretty cool too. right on, building anything on a Weigle is an honor!
#64
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From: Champaign, Il
Bikes: 1994 Colnago master, 1973 Colngo Super Track, 1980s Conago Super, 1980 Torpado Beta, 90s Fuji,
So I was thinking about this... I recently got a bike that accepts a 1 inch steerer tube and a carbon fork with a steel un-threaded steer tube to match and I just don't like the way "ahead sets" and bolt on stems look on a C&V bike... SO I was thinking about a combination of the two things
the idea would consist of a two pieces A & B.
A = a replacement stem bolt that would thread (A1) in to a standard (star nut???) "C" nut... only the user would need to push "C" further down the steer tube of the fork
B = a bolt on collar that would essentially pull the rest of the system C & D together.
What i don't know is how it would keep the stem from rotating.. @Drillium Dude ... got any ideas? maybe a third collar that sits of the upper lip of the fork's steer tube that would interface with "A" and stop the stem from swiviling?
the idea would consist of a two pieces A & B.
A = a replacement stem bolt that would thread (A1) in to a standard (star nut???) "C" nut... only the user would need to push "C" further down the steer tube of the fork
B = a bolt on collar that would essentially pull the rest of the system C & D together.
What i don't know is how it would keep the stem from rotating.. @Drillium Dude ... got any ideas? maybe a third collar that sits of the upper lip of the fork's steer tube that would interface with "A" and stop the stem from swiviling?
#65
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Bikes: ? Proteous, '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, 'Litespeed Catalyst'94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster
In 2009 a Colnago became a part of the current stable of bikes. I really was attracted to the concept of the threadless stem configuration and flexibility. So I tried it out:
[IMG]
BHBDS Cropped, on Flickr[/IMG]
No matter which angle I looked at this configuration, all I could think of was yuck! Oh and the lack of cables in my face was really disorienting!
Today it looks like this:
[IMG]
1983 Colnago Superissimo, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]
BHBDS Cropped, on Flickr[/IMG]No matter which angle I looked at this configuration, all I could think of was yuck! Oh and the lack of cables in my face was really disorienting!
Today it looks like this:
[IMG]
1983 Colnago Superissimo, on Flickr[/IMG]
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#66
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From: Hillsboro, Or
Bikes: 1960 Mercier, 1968 Chiorda, 1992 KHS Summit
On topic, I would recommend staying away from the threaded-threadless adapters for all the above mentioned stylistic reasons and that they actually make the bike a little less safe; running an adapter means you have two friction joints holding the bar to the fork rather than just one with a quill, increasing the potential for slippage. Also consider that when you add up the cost of spacers, the adapter, and the new bar you will be paying more than the cost of a high quality bar that fits the original stem and has none of the drawbacks.
That said, I do think a threadless stem can look as nice as a quill on a traditional frame, but getting it right is not an easy or cheap trick. The best examples I've seen are from people running a modern fork on a classic frame.
In short, threadless stems are for threadless forks; either go all the way with your upgrade or don't, half measures have a way of nipping you in the ass.
#68
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Do you know the weight on this by any chance? Trying to decide between this and the Velo Orange Tall Stack and I was curious how much the Cro-Mo Nitto stem weighs in comparison
#69
Sorry, I don't know the weight. Looks-wise, though, I think this wins hands down over the Velo Orange.
#70
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From: Spokane WA
Bikes: LeMond, LightSpeed L3/SRAM Red 22
Wrestling with this issue on my early 90's LeMond restoration. I'm planning to convert the LeMond threaded fork to threadless by cutting off the threaded portion and welding in a 2" internal sleeve. Then weld on the appropriate length of 1" non threaded section. Luckily I have both a Bridgeport mill, Lathe and Tig welding equipment.
#73
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#74
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From: Spokane WA
Bikes: LeMond, LightSpeed L3/SRAM Red 22
Agreed! Another very nicely executed version. If done well I see nothing wrong with it. If not done well it's visually a disaster when compared to the quill design...
#75
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From: S Oregon
Bikes: Berthoud Randoneusse, Curt Goodrich steel road, Zanconato Minimax road, Jeff Lyon steel all road,




