ClydeTim

Exactly! I bought a set of wheels for $99 years ago from a Performance (many people hate their service but again, it depends on the individual.

This was before I started building my own wheels.

I didn't ask, nobody asked the guy but when I paid for the wheels, he said give me a few minutes and I will adjust them for you so you will not have any problems. He took his time and did just that! Very cool! I never had a problem with them over a period of several years.

Pretty sad though, most bike purchases go much like this. Will this bike hold my weight as a clydesdale? Yes, it will hold your weight, never had a problem.

Few weeks later. Why do I keep breaking spokes. Oh I don't know, but we do have this wheel that will support you for only $99.99.

I have had great shop guys really do their best to make the wheels work on a new bike. Then I have had slugs who true the wheel and say it's a great wheel because it rolls straight in the bike stand.

Again, there are plenty of guys who don't know much about servicing a wheel who work in bike shops. Sad thing is people are lead to believe because somebody works in a bike shop, they know wheels.

Even some real good bike mechanics aren't very good at servicing wheels.

knapplc

I genuinely think this is the issue here. I've been biking off and on for more than 30 years, and I've never had a problem with a wheel or spoke. Buy this bike from the shop, they assure me it's good for my size (and I was very specific about height/weight) and I have tons of problems. Pretty disappointed in the LBS. I feel like lots of missed riding time could have been avoided if they either knew more or told me what they knew.

RayLee

The rear wheel spacing is 130mm on those, pretty sure the Giant is 135mm

cyccommute 

rgconner's response is spot on. But to go rgconner one better, I'm not so sure that a rim would collapse from downward force on the rim. The hoop structure is pretty robust. But if you take the same rims and try to bend them to the side, they are very weak and bend easily. Going to a wider rim does result in a stiffer wheel laterally but the problem is that you are working with a soft metal and a rather large torus that is fairly easy to flex so the result is only a slight increase in lateral stiffness. The difference between the lateral stiffness would be slight and it is easily overcome by the stiffness of the spokes.

For example, I once made the mistake of not sufficiently tensioning a wheel before riding it. (I got distracted and forgot where I was on the wheel) The wheel felt "funny" from the first pedal stroke and seems to be moving more like a sidewinder than a bicycle wheel as I pedaled it. Thankfully, the wheel didn't collapse and the rim stopped the snake bellying once the spokes were properly tensioned but it did illustrate to me how easy it is to bend and flex a rim.

The lack of importance of the rim can also be illustrated by using a steel rim and super light gauge spokes (I may have said this before). A steel rim is super stiff both radially and laterally. They are much tougher to bend than aluminum rims are. But if you build with the lightest spokes (and perhaps the fewest spokes) you can, the wheel won't be strong or stiff. It will snake belly as badly or worse than the loose spoked wheel above. And I'm reasonable certain that the spokes wouldn't last all that long. They would pop with a regularity that Orville Redenbacher would envy.

cyccommute 

Well said. And, like a suspension bridge, the "decking" (aka rim) isn't the bit that holds the bridge up. Using stronger spokes is analogous to using thicker cables while using a "stronger" rim is a bit like using heavier decking. The cables are going to do more, and better, work.

knapplc

Not really well versed in this. What does this mean?

Figured it out. I think you're right. I called Nashbar and spoke to a tech. The bike frame is aluminum, so he said to bend the rear of the bike in 5mm. Said I could do that because it's aluminum, and they do this all the time.

ClydeTim

Sad but yes it happens "ALOT!". Yeah, I know that is not a word.

It has happened to me and it has happened to many posters here. I started maintaining, building my own bikes and wheels. When one gets to that point, one realizes just how bad "SOME" bike shop services and sales can be.

corwin1968

I've never seen a recommendation to bend (cold set) an aluminum frame. In fact, I've seen warnings not to bend an aluminum frame because it can be damaged. I would NOT do this until you do a lot more research.

knapplc

This is becoming comical. So I called Nashbar about that wheel set, and they said it really isn't good for my weight (it's rated for 300lb, I'm 315lb). So I asked to cancel the order, but it shipped this morning, like an hour before I called. So I'll have to ship it back at my expense. That's not the worst thing in the world I guess.

I chatted with one of their "experts" and they told me they don't have a wheel for my weight, and to go to my LBS and have them build me a wheel. I'm not bending my frame after reading about that on a few sites, so I guess I need to shop around and have someone build me a wheel.

I guess chalk this up to a learning experience and move on. I'll have to sell a kidney to afford a $200+ wheel, but at least I know me and my one remaining kidney will have a sturdy wheel.

RayLee

Cant post a link (not enough posts) but so far these have held up great for me (I have the disc model) with my bags and tent I have to be putting close to 300 lbs on them... and ride ruff roads and bumpy dirt paths

Yendor72

I have a new unused Velocity Dyad 32 spoke rim I can send you for cost of shipping to get you started. it may not be exactly what you are looking for though.

The story about it: I had a set of Dyads built for me. I am only 220lbs but I was able to mess it up somehow. I didn't realize they have a lifetime warranty on them. I was in the midst of having one built for me at that point. I received the new build and a few days later I received a new rim from Velocity. I have no use for it and it would save you about $60. Let me know. Its in my garage collecting dust.

ClydeTim

Yeah, I was going to say something earlier but some people get so sensitive when you tell them the way it is.

I've heard and have a bike that spread made of steel. But I have always heard it is not rec'd for aluminum. I wouldn't do it myself but it ain't my frame that is going to suffer the consequences.

It may be possible to put some spacers on the hub to make it 135 with a new axle and shims/washers whatever they use. I don't know about building hubs, but I believe that is a possibility.

knapplc

Wow. That's a really cool offer. Thank you.

But... I went to a different LBS today and started the process on a custom wheel. It's a small shop and they could use the sale, so I'll give them my money. Gotta support the local guys.

knapplc

Yeah. NO WAY am I bending my frame. For an amateur to even think about trying that is crazy. I'll fork over the $$$ for a custom wheel before I do that, painful as it is.

Clyde1820

Have had two 700c bikes over the past several years.

Prior one had standard, off-the-shelf wheelsets. 32-spoke hubs, relatively lightweight hubs, relatively lightweight spokes, and 32mm tires. Popped several spokes, lots of creaks and groans through cornering, not confidence building.

On the (current) next bike, I decided to install a tougher wheelset: 36H Shimano Deore XT hubs; Velocity Dyad rims; DT Swiss 2.0mm spokes; 47-622 sized tires. Nary a peep. Vastly improved for rougher streets I ride on, and with the tires it's more comfortable as well. Purchased them as a wheelset from a shop in Colorado that sells "overstock" items they've built-up but where customers didn't want them. Nice units. IIRC, my set was $200, front and rear total. A fairly good price for a vastly superior setup, IMO.

Easily found on eBay. Let me know if you want the link to the shop's wheelset builds.

ahultin

Might be a little late but I will chime in. I am around the same weight as the op. I wholeheartedly agree with @cyccommute on the use of the DT Alpine III triple butted spokes. I currently run velocity deep V 36 whole rear with 32 hole front on my single. The hubs and spokes have over 12000 miles on them (rims have been replaced once due to a finish issue and once due to wearing thru the brake track) and I have never broken a spoke. On my tandem, running team weights up to 550lbs, I run the same DT alpine III with velocity aileron , 32h front and rear, currently about 1500 miles and never a broken spoke.

ClydeTim

I use Deep V's also, being lighter at 230, I have never ever had a problem with Deep V's that I built myself.

Yes, I have had problems with the same exact wheels built by a "PRO" at a high end bike shop who was supposed to know his stuff. Like I said, working in a bike shop does not mean squat as far as wheel builders.

I have also made 28 spoke wheels for myself and have 13,000+ miles on them and still going strong. 1 set of the Deep V's wore out at the brake surface after 20,000+ miles.

Deep V's good stuff but I would not hesitate to try any 30 mm rim at 230. I'm tempted to try Kinlin because of the good prices.


KINLIN XR300 700C BLACK RIM - prowheelbuilder.com

I buy my parts online at much better prices then build myself (hubs Ultegra $123 delivered). I use straight gauge spokes and never had a problem in the 12 years I have been building my own.

Jarrett2

Are you sure the rear is 135mm? I can't find a spec on it. Need to verify before buying wheels.

Don't try to bend aluminum, just get the right hub size.

And those wheels, if they fit, will hold your weight. I rode 32 spoke wheels at 325.

rgconner

One good question for a wheel builder is ask if they play an instrument.

If you find one that plays a stringed instrument, they are probably pretty good. They at least understand the concept of tuning the tension, and have the ear to do it.

(Well... assuming they don't play in a Thrash Metal band or something...)

Best builder I knew locally did exactly that: pluck the strings to get right note. 90% of the time he was spot on with a truing, maybe one little tweak or two if the hoop was out of round.

Yendor72

Ahh, good for you. You'll be happy knowing that your wheels can be trusted.

knapplc

I had to dig a LOT to find that they're 135mm. It's not on their website. Can't remember where I found it, but I'm quite sure it's right.

Jarrett2

My bad, then. Apologies. I saw rim brakes on a hybrid and figured 130mm. Sounds like you got it sorted out with the LBS though.

knapplc

No worries. That's my job to do the research before I spend the money.

ClydeTim

I do tap the spokes with the back of my finger nail, somewhat of a knock to listed to the tone hoping to get them close before using the tension meter.

Also a good method if you think you might have a loose spoke or if you suspect the wheel is losing tension.

cyccommute 

I tapp them with the spoke wrench. I have it in hand and it's hard enough to give a good tone.