Has anyone needed to have a custom wheel built?
03-23-17, 08:47 AM
#76
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I would suggest that you be careful referring to rims as "30mm" without specifying that you are referring to depth. Many people are going to assume width over depth. Deep cross section rims are a fairly recent development while wide rims have been around for ages.
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03-23-17, 11:55 AM
#77
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True. I'm sure there are many that don't know Deep V rims are 30 mm deep.
03-23-17, 12:47 PM
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03-24-17, 02:44 PM
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Just a little PSA for this thread: Rivendell Bicycle Works just sent out an e-mail update and they have five sets of Deore hub, Dyad rim wheels for $400 per set. These are handbuilt by Rich Lesnik, the same guy who built my wheels. The ad doesn't specify if they are 130 or 135 but anyone interested could contact them to verify the specifics. I have no affiliation with RBW but they are in a dry patch right now and maybe somewhere here could pick up a good set of wheels and they could make a sell.
https://www.rivbike.com/products/cop...eid=6da1c24773
https://www.rivbike.com/products/cop...eid=6da1c24773
03-25-17, 06:23 AM
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Have had two 700c bikes over the past several years.
Prior one had standard, off-the-shelf wheelsets. 32-spoke hubs, relatively lightweight hubs, relatively lightweight spokes, and 32mm tires. Popped several spokes, lots of creaks and groans through cornering, not confidence building.
On the (current) next bike, I decided to install a tougher wheelset: 36H Shimano Deore XT hubs; Velocity Dyad rims; DT Swiss 2.0mm spokes; 47-622 sized tires. Nary a peep. Vastly improved for rougher streets I ride on, and with the tires it's more comfortable as well. Purchased them as a wheelset from a shop in Colorado that sells "overstock" items they've built-up but where customers didn't want them. Nice units. IIRC, my set was $200, front and rear total. A fairly good price for a vastly superior setup, IMO.
Easily found on eBay. Let me know if you want the link to the shop's wheelset builds.
Prior one had standard, off-the-shelf wheelsets. 32-spoke hubs, relatively lightweight hubs, relatively lightweight spokes, and 32mm tires. Popped several spokes, lots of creaks and groans through cornering, not confidence building.
On the (current) next bike, I decided to install a tougher wheelset: 36H Shimano Deore XT hubs; Velocity Dyad rims; DT Swiss 2.0mm spokes; 47-622 sized tires. Nary a peep. Vastly improved for rougher streets I ride on, and with the tires it's more comfortable as well. Purchased them as a wheelset from a shop in Colorado that sells "overstock" items they've built-up but where customers didn't want them. Nice units. IIRC, my set was $200, front and rear total. A fairly good price for a vastly superior setup, IMO.
Easily found on eBay. Let me know if you want the link to the shop's wheelset builds.
03-25-17, 06:33 AM
#81
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Have had two 700c bikes over the past several years.
Prior one had standard, off-the-shelf wheelsets. 32-spoke hubs, relatively lightweight hubs, relatively lightweight spokes, and 32mm tires. Popped several spokes, lots of creaks and groans through cornering, not confidence building.
On the (current) next bike, I decided to install a tougher wheelset: 36H Shimano Deore XT hubs; Velocity Dyad rims; DT Swiss 2.0mm spokes; 47-622 sized tires. Nary a peep. Vastly improved for rougher streets I ride on, and with the tires it's more comfortable as well. Purchased them as a wheelset from a shop in Colorado that sells "overstock" items they've built-up but where customers didn't want them. Nice units. IIRC, my set was $200, front and rear total. A fairly good price for a vastly superior setup, IMO.
Easily found on eBay. Let me know if you want the link to the shop's wheelset builds.
Prior one had standard, off-the-shelf wheelsets. 32-spoke hubs, relatively lightweight hubs, relatively lightweight spokes, and 32mm tires. Popped several spokes, lots of creaks and groans through cornering, not confidence building.
On the (current) next bike, I decided to install a tougher wheelset: 36H Shimano Deore XT hubs; Velocity Dyad rims; DT Swiss 2.0mm spokes; 47-622 sized tires. Nary a peep. Vastly improved for rougher streets I ride on, and with the tires it's more comfortable as well. Purchased them as a wheelset from a shop in Colorado that sells "overstock" items they've built-up but where customers didn't want them. Nice units. IIRC, my set was $200, front and rear total. A fairly good price for a vastly superior setup, IMO.
Easily found on eBay. Let me know if you want the link to the shop's wheelset builds.
Just a little PSA for this thread: Rivendell Bicycle Works just sent out an e-mail update and they have five sets of Deore hub, Dyad rim wheels for $400 per set. These are handbuilt by Rich Lesnik, the same guy who built my wheels. The ad doesn't specify if they are 130 or 135 but anyone interested could contact them to verify the specifics. I have no affiliation with RBW but they are in a dry patch right now and maybe somewhere here could pick up a good set of wheels and they could make a sell.
https://www.rivbike.com/products/cop...eid=6da1c24773
https://www.rivbike.com/products/cop...eid=6da1c24773
I am looking at these and about ready to hit the "buy" button. Anyone have any input on BMC wheels? I know a few here who have their frames.
The Burly 36 - Black Mountain Cycles
03-25-17, 12:33 PM
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The specific hubs (Shimano XT M756 Disc 36H) in the wheelset that I purchased were 135mm rear hub spacing, yes, with 100mm front hub spacing.
Basic specs of the wheelset build were: 2016 Velocity Dyad 700c; 36H; Shimano XT M756 Disc 36H hubs, 100mm front, 135mm rear; 8/9/10spd compatible; DT Swiss 2.0mm straight-gauge spokes; DT Swiss brass nipples; 2040gr weight. Not exactly lightweight, certainly by today's standards, but bomb-proof so far, for a clyde that rides on rougher, potholed city streets with a mild load.
Same company has a similar wheelset on eBay with the Shimano LX T670 36H hubs. Otherwise, same basic build. Sub-$250 for the set, plus shipping.
Basic specs of the wheelset build were: 2016 Velocity Dyad 700c; 36H; Shimano XT M756 Disc 36H hubs, 100mm front, 135mm rear; 8/9/10spd compatible; DT Swiss 2.0mm straight-gauge spokes; DT Swiss brass nipples; 2040gr weight. Not exactly lightweight, certainly by today's standards, but bomb-proof so far, for a clyde that rides on rougher, potholed city streets with a mild load.
Same company has a similar wheelset on eBay with the Shimano LX T670 36H hubs. Otherwise, same basic build. Sub-$250 for the set, plus shipping.
03-25-17, 12:41 PM
#83
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thing is, at over 300 pounds you need to have the wheels checked for tension and truing more frequently..
Nashbar can not help, make friends with your bike shop mechanics.
Nashbar can not help, make friends with your bike shop mechanics.
03-25-17, 02:31 PM
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I am looking at these and about ready to hit the "buy" button. Anyone have any input on BMC wheels? I know a few here who have their frames.
The Burly 36 - Black Mountain Cycles
The Burly 36 - Black Mountain Cycles
03-29-17, 09:33 AM
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Update. I have my custom wheel. Went to a different lbs where the guy really paid attention to my needs. Talked about the spokes, the rim, everything. He built it in a few days, it's on the bike, the rims are Dyad, he put on 36 spokes and four cross.
It's pretty drippy in Lincoln, NE right now, and I'm waiting for drier weather to test this out, but this should work just fine. I'll put about 100 miles on it and take it back in to get checked over, but so far so good.
In other news, original lbs has the warranty process underway for the original, bad wheel. They called me yesterday and said the wheel was in. I went over there, and they had ordered the wrong wheel. So that process starts over, and I'm looking at another three/four weeks before I get that wheel.
It's pretty drippy in Lincoln, NE right now, and I'm waiting for drier weather to test this out, but this should work just fine. I'll put about 100 miles on it and take it back in to get checked over, but so far so good.
In other news, original lbs has the warranty process underway for the original, bad wheel. They called me yesterday and said the wheel was in. I went over there, and they had ordered the wrong wheel. So that process starts over, and I'm looking at another three/four weeks before I get that wheel.
04-17-17, 11:08 AM
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I'm a pretty big dude: 6'2", 315lbs (1.87m, 143kg)
Last year I bought a Giant Escape 2 XL. The original wheel on the bike was a stock Giant S-X3, 700x32 with puncture-resistant tubes. I ride reasonably frequently, mostly paved roads with some crushed-rock gravel paths. I've put right at 400 miles on this bike in the past year. I've popped six spokes on the back wheel. My LBS assured me this bike would be good for someone my size, but with the trouble I've had with this wheel, I'm doubting it can hold my weight. I've got a warranty claim in on the original wheel, waiting for a new one to come in. But my LBS is telling me this one may not work as well, and if so, I'll need to get a custom wheel built.
Putting aside the issue of my LBS originally assuring me this bike/wheel would work for someone my size, presuming I have to have a wheel built, does anyone have any experience with this and if so, any tips on what I should look for, what materials to use, etc?
Last year I bought a Giant Escape 2 XL. The original wheel on the bike was a stock Giant S-X3, 700x32 with puncture-resistant tubes. I ride reasonably frequently, mostly paved roads with some crushed-rock gravel paths. I've put right at 400 miles on this bike in the past year. I've popped six spokes on the back wheel. My LBS assured me this bike would be good for someone my size, but with the trouble I've had with this wheel, I'm doubting it can hold my weight. I've got a warranty claim in on the original wheel, waiting for a new one to come in. But my LBS is telling me this one may not work as well, and if so, I'll need to get a custom wheel built.
Putting aside the issue of my LBS originally assuring me this bike/wheel would work for someone my size, presuming I have to have a wheel built, does anyone have any experience with this and if so, any tips on what I should look for, what materials to use, etc?
04-17-17, 11:19 AM
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This would be a prime example of a bike shop wheel guy not knowing how to properly adjust a wheel. 32 spokes for a 240 is plenty. If he worked on it more than once, it's his fault more than one broke. I was 240 and put 13 000 on a 28 spoke 23m tire no problems. Especially on your hybrid, 32 is more than plenty with wide tires. People use 36 spoke wheels when they can't adjust a 32 or fewer. I put anywhere from 5,000-7000 miles per year on my bike. Trust me, you neef a real wheel mechanic. Not being sarcastic, but a 32 is fine for a 240 pound hybrid cyclist. Just because someone works in a bike shop does not mean they are good with wheels. I've had shops tell me I was too big at 230 for 28 spoke 23 m tires. They couldn't keep the wheel straight. I tore it down and rebuilt it and that is the set I put 13,000 on before I gave them to a buddy. Most wheel guys I have met at bike shops are lacking in wheel skills. If that 32 didn't work for you on a hybrid, it wasn't the wheel.
I second this! Also, you didn't mention if you took it in to get trued often...
04-22-17, 09:19 PM
#88
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I haven't had a custom wheel built but I do build my own. I do this partly because I like to build them and partly because I can't buy wheels with the features I want. Part of those "features" is spokes that are up to the job. I'm a huge proponent of using triple butted spokes over the regular "any old spoke we have laying around" method of wheel building. I'm not as large as you but I am hard on equipment.
If you need to have a wheel built, read this article from Wheel Fanatyk and insist on a 2.2-2.3/1.8/2.0mm spoke. I don't completely agree with the article...going to triple butted spokes is more like increasing the spoke count by 4 rather than 10. That said, it solves a lot of problem.
By the way, don't fall into the trap (or be lead into it) of thinking that the rim needs to be stronger. Rims have little to do with wheel strength and durability. Concentrate on the problem...broke spokes...and fixing that problem.
And, if you can't find someone to build your wheels the way you want, build them yourself. It's not that difficult.
If you need to have a wheel built, read this article from Wheel Fanatyk and insist on a 2.2-2.3/1.8/2.0mm spoke. I don't completely agree with the article...going to triple butted spokes is more like increasing the spoke count by 4 rather than 10. That said, it solves a lot of problem.
By the way, don't fall into the trap (or be lead into it) of thinking that the rim needs to be stronger. Rims have little to do with wheel strength and durability. Concentrate on the problem...broke spokes...and fixing that problem.
And, if you can't find someone to build your wheels the way you want, build them yourself. It's not that difficult.
There are quite a few recipes that work well; all that do are focused on the quality of the wheel build process more than the particular components.
04-23-17, 10:17 AM
#89
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one of the things I have noticed is that many of the rims are just not stiff enough and will egg as we ride (have a flat spot at the bottom of the wheel) which ends up taking the wheel out of true and messing up the spoke tension.
I picked up my Rolf Prima wheels and they are a 33mm deep V wheel, and Rolf indexes their spokes way different than other wheel manufacturers. I am at 345 pounds now, but picked up the Rolf wheels when I was at 360 pounds. The Rolf wheels I have are 24 spokes front and 24 spokes rear.
the extra stiffness of the wheel means they stay round when I ride, and riding is less effort (more speed for the same power output and cadence).
I hope your new wheels work for you.
I picked up my Rolf Prima wheels and they are a 33mm deep V wheel, and Rolf indexes their spokes way different than other wheel manufacturers. I am at 345 pounds now, but picked up the Rolf wheels when I was at 360 pounds. The Rolf wheels I have are 24 spokes front and 24 spokes rear.
the extra stiffness of the wheel means they stay round when I ride, and riding is less effort (more speed for the same power output and cadence).
I hope your new wheels work for you.
05-15-17, 04:50 PM
#90
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I was just over 230, and kept popping rear spokes on my Allez, with Alex rims, DA22, 32 spoke. I had my local shop replace all the OEM spokes with DT Swiss, and have had no problems with the rear since 2004. I did break a front, going downhill, about 35 mph, which was pretty exciting. A couple of bikes later, I'm down to around 210 and the OEM spokes on these bikes have been fine. The Allez was a fairly low end bike compared to my Roubaix and my Culprit, so that might have been the problem with breaking spokes before. I did have cracks around the spoke nipples on the rear Mavic Open Sport rim on the Roubaix, but was 10 years old. I replaced both Mavics with Reynolds Stratus Elites.
Last edited by Slightspeed; 05-15-17 at 05:00 PM.
05-16-17, 01:31 PM
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The rim strength metric that matters the most is not stiffness in any direction, but maximum tension applied to eyelet before pull-through or aluminium failure.
This is something we sort of need to guess based on looking at extrusion profiles and rim reputations in the community. I would looove if there was a manufacturer standard for testing failure load at spoke holes/eyelets. It would be a relatively simple test to standardize.
This is something we sort of need to guess based on looking at extrusion profiles and rim reputations in the community. I would looove if there was a manufacturer standard for testing failure load at spoke holes/eyelets. It would be a relatively simple test to standardize.
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