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My vote for the two best improvements in road bikes for Clydes

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My vote for the two best improvements in road bikes for Clydes

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Old 08-15-13, 11:54 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Barrettscv
Mounting a MTB crank on a road frame can be done, easily in most cases. Matching a road front derailleur to the MTB cranks is the bigger problem. Here I was just able to get the front derailleur to span the range needed to shift this 48/36/22 Deore triple with brifters.

Is that a Tiagra FD? What's the part number?

I just got back from a ride where a 30.5" bottom gear (30F/25R) wasn't anywhere near low enough for the massive climb I tried. So, I'm getting serious about getting some lower gears. Any suggestions are appreciated.
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Old 08-15-13, 12:16 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 2 wheeler
Is that a Tiagra FD? What's the part number?

I just got back from a ride where a 30.5" bottom gear (30F/25R) wasn't anywhere near low enough for the massive climb I tried. So, I'm getting serious about getting some lower gears. Any suggestions are appreciated.
It's a Tiagra FD-4503 with a SHIMANO DEORE FC-M590 48-36-26t Trekking Crankset, I added the 22 in chainring.

I would first install a 26t chainring on the road crankset, assuming you have a 130 & 74 BCD crankset. What crankset do you have?

https://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1776

Also add a chain guide, like one of these: https://www.universalcycles.com/searc...hain+Deflector

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Old 08-15-13, 02:44 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Barrettscv
It's a Tiagra FD-4503 with a SHIMANO DEORE FC-M590 48-36-26t Trekking Crankset, I added the 22 in chainring.

I would first install a 26t chainring on the road crankset, assuming you have a 130 & 74 BCD crankset. What crankset do you have?

https://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1776

Also add a chain guide, like one of these: https://www.universalcycles.com/searc...hain+Deflector

Thanks for the detailed response!

The crankset is kind of a mystery, but I assume that it's a private label Shimano105 made for Specialized. It says "Octalink" on the outside of the crank arm and "forged, Japan, RD2L, 175, C7" on the inside of the crank arms.

I scrounged up an old alloy 28T, SR363 chainring that has the same BCD as the crankset. Maybe that would help a little in getting up the hills.

Last edited by 2 wheeler; 08-15-13 at 02:45 PM. Reason: Corrected spelling
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Old 08-15-13, 02:46 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 2 wheeler
Thanks for the detailed response!

The crankset is kind of a mystery, but I assume that it's a private label Shimano105 made for Specialized. It says "Octolink" on the outside of the crank arm and "forged, Japan, RD2L, 175, C7" on the inside of the crank arms.

I scrounged up an old alloy 28T, SR363 chainring that has the same BCD as the crankset. Maybe that would help a little in getting up the hills.
It sounds like a 3x9 speed set-up. What rear derailleur are you using?
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Old 08-15-13, 04:31 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Barrettscv
It sounds like a 3x9 speed set-up. What rear derailleur are you using?
Yep, it's a 3x9. Rear derailleur is a Shimano 105 RD-5501; front derailleur is a Shimano 105 FD-5504.
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Old 08-15-13, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Ranger63
Shallow drop road bars
10 cog setups
Life became immensely easier with both.
I'd say integrated shifters and brake levers and 10 speed cogs. The ten speed gives you an almost straight block cassette so no big jumps between shifts.
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Old 08-15-13, 05:07 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 2 wheeler
Is that a Tiagra FD? What's the part number?

I just got back from a ride where a 30.5" bottom gear (30F/25R) wasn't anywhere near low enough for the massive climb I tried. So, I'm getting serious about getting some lower gears. Any suggestions are appreciated.
You can also just get an 11-28 or 12-30 rear cassette. A 30F/25R isn't really that low of a gear. Last time I checked a 34/32 is about the same gear inches as a 30/28.
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Old 08-15-13, 05:19 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 2 wheeler
Yep, it's a 3x9. Rear derailleur is a Shimano 105 RD-5501; front derailleur is a Shimano 105 FD-5504.
Using this 11-28 nine-speed cassette: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-SLX-...item416eef094f

...and the 28 chainring will provide a great range for hilly rides. You can keep your existing derailleurs, but should install a new chain to extend the life of the new parts.
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Last edited by Barrettscv; 08-15-13 at 05:28 PM.
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Old 08-15-13, 06:18 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Barrettscv
Using this 11-28 nine-speed cassette: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-SLX-...item416eef094f

...and the 28 chainring will provide a great range for hilly rides. You can keep your existing derailleurs, but should install a new chain to extend the life of the new parts.
That's very helpful. Thanks a LOT!
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Old 08-15-13, 06:44 PM
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While not really specific to Clyde's, I think some of the newer fitting systems bring a lot of benefit. My newest bike is a result of the GURU fitting system, and I can't get over how comfortable I am on it.
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Old 08-15-13, 07:27 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by jsigone
Mtb cranks have a wider spindle length then roadie cranks, so it wouldn't fit the bottom bracket shell of a roadie frame.
Not true. Most mountain bikes still have 68mm-wide bottom bracket shells, just like road bikes. There are quite a few that have 73mm-wide shells, which is why most mountain bike cranks will work with either width.

In my case, I installed a Shimano Deore 26/36/48 MTB crank and the included external cup BB on my Ultegra 6600-equipped 700c touring bike. I installed it as recommended for a 68mm wide BB shell, but my Ultegra triple FD couldn't quite shift to the outer ring due to the difference in expected chainline (road = 45mm, mountain = 47.5mm). I removed one of the 2.5mm spacers from the drive side of the crank and everything worked perfectly after that.
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Old 08-15-13, 08:39 PM
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Old 08-16-13, 12:49 PM
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Trekking handlbar
Better back wheel
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Old 08-16-13, 05:13 PM
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Gotta go wth Compact Cranks and Compact bars...
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Old 08-17-13, 08:16 AM
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Coming back to riding from the 80s I would say the availability of wider tire clearance on such a wide variety of bike styles.


Disc brakes are the other big one. I can get them wet and still stop. Also if I run through grass or a small puddle on an otherwise dry day I don't have to remember to drag the brakes to avoid any surprises in stopping power.

Also one more, there were almost no choices easily found for stem configurations when I last rode. You were stuck with what the bike came with. There was no internet access to entire product catalogs and sources to order. The shop and its inventory was the view of the world and shops never talked about anything that wasn't in stock.
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Old 08-17-13, 12:37 PM
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Barretscv I want to send you a note of caution. I had a very similar set up on my Fuji. I ended up exploding the trunnion carrier. I would double check the chain wrap spec on that Ultegra rear. In the picture it looks like a standard length rear. If it's the medium cage you may be just fine.

I don't want to see you blow up like I did. I'm using 26,36,48 Deore in front with LX derailer and 11/28 and medium cage 105 in the back now. I was using a standard length Ultergra in the rear. I was way short on chain wrap. I'm still about 4 teeth short on the chain wrap spec now. But it should fly just fine.

I'm just suggesting double checking to be sure. I assploded right in front of my LBS on a club ride. I wasn't out in the boonies with a busted bike, thank god. I just want to see you be safe. I would also suggest all drivetrain mods check the chain wrap specs on the rear derailer just to be safe.

Mark Shuman
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Old 08-17-13, 02:15 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by phread59
Barretscv I want to send you a note of caution. I had a very similar set up on my Fuji. I ended up exploding the trunnion carrier. I would double check the chain wrap spec on that Ultegra rear. In the picture it looks like a standard length rear. If it's the medium cage you may be just fine.

I don't want to see you blow up like I did. I'm using 26,36,48 Deore in front with LX derailer and 11/28 and medium cage 105 in the back now. I was using a standard length Ultergra in the rear. I was way short on chain wrap. I'm still about 4 teeth short on the chain wrap spec now. But it should fly just fine.

I'm just suggesting double checking to be sure. I assploded right in front of my LBS on a club ride. I wasn't out in the boonies with a busted bike, thank god. I just want to see you be safe. I would also suggest all drivetrain mods check the chain wrap specs on the rear derailer just to be safe.

Mark Shuman
The Ultegra rear derailleur is a "GS" for triple, model RD-6703. A "SS" short arm rear derailleur for doubles should never be used with a triple.

Your comment has merit even if a GS rear derailleur is used. The length of the chain becomes critical when you start combining a wide range triple with a wide range cassette. If the chain is too short and the cyclist shifts into the big chainring and biggest cog on-the-cassette-combination, it can destroy the rear derailleur, chain and maybe the derailleur hanger on the frame.

The problem can be avoided by installing a chain that is long enough to be used on the big chainring and biggest cog-on-the-cassette combination. If the drivetrain requires more chain slack take-up than the rear derailleur can deliver, the chain may droop in the small chainring and smallest cog on-the-cassette combination. This is not recommended but this does not damage any parts. A chain that is too-long is far safer than a chain that is too-short.

I tend to max-out the practical chain wrap range of the GS rear derailleur without exceeding the practical range. Combining a 12-30 cassette with a 50/39/26 can be done on my frames, but a 12-30 cassette with a 52/39/26 exceeds the practical range of Shimano GS rear derailleur and a Deore SGS rear derailleur is then needed.
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Old 08-17-13, 02:44 PM
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From a Clyde specific perspective I would have to vote for:

1. Durable road rims of reasonable weights. Any clydes that cycled throgh the 80s can attest to the issues we suffered with sub 400gram box rims laced with 15ga spokes.
2. Clothing that actually fits. The choices today are absolutely miles ahead of what we had a decade or more ago.
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