strapping milk crate to rack
#1
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strapping milk crate to rack
I have a rack on my bike that has a 50lb limit so I use it once in a while to bring a load of laundry to the laundromat but in my apartment I don't have the room to keep bike with the crate mounted 24/7 on it so I want to find a way to mount it and be able to take it off rather easily, but every way i try will tip over once I have a trashbag of clothes in it. Does anybody have any options of how i can make the rack easily removeable but sturdy once on?
#2
aka Tom Reingold




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From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
I've used bungie cords. You have to use two or three or four, and you have to string them tight, so it takes a minute to put the crate on, not super quick.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#3
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From: West Georgia
Bikes: K2 Mod 5.0 Roadie, Fuji Commuter
As far as the crate----try zip ties. I put a crate on a bike years ago with them......took less than a minute. Rode it several times and decided that it was way to high to swing a leg over for getting off and on the bike. Not willing to deal or adapt to that I removed the crate. It took less than a minute.
So.....cut out the several rides and make it one. A bag of heavy enough zips is about eight bucks for a hundred---if I remember right. Use four per trip and you have less than thirty-five cents and a few minutes invested.
Add it to the cost.....along with the quarters you feed the machines at the laundromat.
#4
Me duelen las nalgas

Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Texas
Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel
Yeah, I've been experimenting with ways to temporarily but securely fasten my milk crate and large insulated grocery shopping rolling cart bag to my rear rack.
Bungee cords have been a PITA. They work, but it's a chore to do it right so the carriers don't shift on the rack. When I'm lugging up to 50 lbs of groceries on the rear rack, any significant shift can throw off the balance. But if I stretch all the slack out of the bungee cords the elastic doesn't last long. I've already replaced three heavy duty bungee cords since August because the elastic was stretched out. Bungee cords work best for more flexible loads that can compress without damage, so I prefer them for holding a spare jacket or long sleeved jersey, rolled up spare tire, or one or two small sacks of groceries. But bungees aren't great for quickly and securely rigging up rigid crates or bags that you also want to remove quickly and easily.
I've tried nylon web straps, but I need better locking buckles that are also easily adjustable. The buckles I have are designed for easy adjustment but always leave a bit too much slack.
I may return to using cargo rope knots. The trucker's hitch and a few other knots work really well as a compromise between strong holding and easy release. I used those for years with my pickup truck and there are useful variations of fisherman's knots as well.
Bungee cords have been a PITA. They work, but it's a chore to do it right so the carriers don't shift on the rack. When I'm lugging up to 50 lbs of groceries on the rear rack, any significant shift can throw off the balance. But if I stretch all the slack out of the bungee cords the elastic doesn't last long. I've already replaced three heavy duty bungee cords since August because the elastic was stretched out. Bungee cords work best for more flexible loads that can compress without damage, so I prefer them for holding a spare jacket or long sleeved jersey, rolled up spare tire, or one or two small sacks of groceries. But bungees aren't great for quickly and securely rigging up rigid crates or bags that you also want to remove quickly and easily.
I've tried nylon web straps, but I need better locking buckles that are also easily adjustable. The buckles I have are designed for easy adjustment but always leave a bit too much slack.
I may return to using cargo rope knots. The trucker's hitch and a few other knots work really well as a compromise between strong holding and easy release. I used those for years with my pickup truck and there are useful variations of fisherman's knots as well.
#6
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
The mistake people often make when tying milk crates to their racks is looping a single rope or bungee under the rack and up to both sides. That allows the crate to shift easily and dump over the side if the bike is tilted enough.
Instead, use separate pieces of rope or short bungees to secure each side of the milk box independently to the carrier deck or legs. Done that way, there's no potential for it to shift position.
Another trick is to use nuts, bolts and washers to make 4 pins that stick out from the bottom about 1/4". Position them so they fit just inside (or outside) the rails so the rack cannot move when it's placed on the deck. Then all you need it tie it down, with the pins securing it from sliding.
Instead, use separate pieces of rope or short bungees to secure each side of the milk box independently to the carrier deck or legs. Done that way, there's no potential for it to shift position.
Another trick is to use nuts, bolts and washers to make 4 pins that stick out from the bottom about 1/4". Position them so they fit just inside (or outside) the rails so the rack cannot move when it's placed on the deck. Then all you need it tie it down, with the pins securing it from sliding.
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Last edited by FBinNY; 12-27-15 at 10:59 PM.
#7
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From: West Georgia
Bikes: K2 Mod 5.0 Roadie, Fuji Commuter
To solve a similar problem as yours I decided that a trailer was the answer. My main concern was how much I would use it, I didn't want a $300 thing hanging out not being used. So, I bought a 70 buck TSO (trailer shaped object) off of eBarf. I used it far more than I had ever thought that I would, So, saved an eBarf search for "used BOB Yak" and got an email every time a new one was listed. It took a while, but I got one for $148 w/shipping. No difference with loads under 30 lbs. Major, and worth every penny difference, at 40+ lbs.
I don't have a concern about space but the Asom eBarf thing folds, with a quick release for the wheel, to slide under a bed or stand behind a door.
Mine could be had for not much more than shipping costs.
I don't have a concern about space but the Asom eBarf thing folds, with a quick release for the wheel, to slide under a bed or stand behind a door.
Mine could be had for not much more than shipping costs.
#8
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From: West Georgia
Bikes: K2 Mod 5.0 Roadie, Fuji Commuter
Perfect example.................
For anyone that had an EXCUSE as why there is not a "Commuting Forum" For Sale thread.
Would you please advise me if this would be best listed on the MTB forum "For Sale" thread, or, surly you jest.....the Road Bike "For Sale" forum. Or perhaps..................in the for sale section that 90% of readers don't know exist.
I am not looking to make a living or even a dime of profits. Just trying to help.
Is that not the reason we are here?
Open for new excuses.
For anyone that had an EXCUSE as why there is not a "Commuting Forum" For Sale thread.
Would you please advise me if this would be best listed on the MTB forum "For Sale" thread, or, surly you jest.....the Road Bike "For Sale" forum. Or perhaps..................in the for sale section that 90% of readers don't know exist.
I am not looking to make a living or even a dime of profits. Just trying to help.
Is that not the reason we are here?
Open for new excuses.
#9
Disco Infiltrator




Joined: May 2013
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From: Folsom CA
Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem
I guess I'd figure something out with latches.
If I were going to do a plastic crate again I'd use a soda crate and not a milk crate, it would fit under the seat better.
There are folding baskets.
If I were going to do a plastic crate again I'd use a soda crate and not a milk crate, it would fit under the seat better.
There are folding baskets.
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#11
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From: south of the Great Lakes
Bikes: The Kona
Get the following:
4- 1/4x20, 3" long, machine screws or hex bolts, fully threaded
4- 1/4x20 wing nuts
8- 1/4" pan washers
4- 1/4" lock washers
Put one pan washer on each screw/bolt, put through bottom of the crate where they would just clear the sides of teh rack while the crate was sitting on the rack.
Put another pan washer, a lock washer, and wing nut on each screw/bolt, from underneath. Tighten fully.
You will have four screws/bolts sticking out of the bottom of the crate; each time you put the crate on the rack, arrange it right and strap that sucker down tight. The screws/bolts will keep it from sliding around.
4- 1/4x20, 3" long, machine screws or hex bolts, fully threaded
4- 1/4x20 wing nuts
8- 1/4" pan washers
4- 1/4" lock washers
Put one pan washer on each screw/bolt, put through bottom of the crate where they would just clear the sides of teh rack while the crate was sitting on the rack.
Put another pan washer, a lock washer, and wing nut on each screw/bolt, from underneath. Tighten fully.
You will have four screws/bolts sticking out of the bottom of the crate; each time you put the crate on the rack, arrange it right and strap that sucker down tight. The screws/bolts will keep it from sliding around.
#12
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Wouldn't this be easier with large panniers? They will cost more than a milk crate but you should be able to pick up a set 2d hand at a reasonable cost. Plus you can take them off the bike and into the laundromat.
#14
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
Bikes: 2015 Charge Plug, 2007 Dahon Boardwalk, 1997 Specialized Rockhopper, 1984 Nishiki International, 2006 Felt F65, 1989 Dahon Getaway V
Before I bought Wald folding baskets I had a plastic milk crate. I used two 2-inch wide velcro strips. Worked pretty well!
#16
I use Wald folding baskets and attach them with homemade quick-release nylon straps. You could probably do something similar with a crate (or, even better, buy some baskets). Here's a description with more photos: Wald folding baskets: do they rattle?
#17
Jedi Master
Joined: Sep 2014
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From: Lake Forest, IL
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Sounds like a perfect application for bike buckets
#18
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
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From Rixen & Kaul, KLICKfix Adaptersysteme Fahrradzubehör, Solingen, Taschen, Körbe, Werkzeug
(pictures didnt Go . so look at the site)
Citymax II für RT
(bike basket for Racktime carrier)(0321R) RRP (for Germany) 52,95€
Meshed basket with handle and extra large volume. Equipped with coupling for racktime carriers, the basket simply slides into the racktime carrier and locks automatically. While riding you can fix the handle as shown in the photo to avoid rattling.
Also available for GTA carrier adapter.
The carriers are available at www.racktime.com. You can lock the system with 'Secure-it' (from racktime).
[Nicer basket than a Milk nicked Milk crate ]
(pictures didnt Go . so look at the site)
Citymax II für RT
(bike basket for Racktime carrier)(0321R) RRP (for Germany) 52,95€
Meshed basket with handle and extra large volume. Equipped with coupling for racktime carriers, the basket simply slides into the racktime carrier and locks automatically. While riding you can fix the handle as shown in the photo to avoid rattling.
Also available for GTA carrier adapter.
The carriers are available at www.racktime.com. You can lock the system with 'Secure-it' (from racktime).
[Nicer basket than a Milk nicked Milk crate ]
Last edited by fietsbob; 12-30-15 at 04:36 PM.
#20
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From: West Georgia
Bikes: K2 Mod 5.0 Roadie, Fuji Commuter
I have a pair that I'd list in the "Commuter Classifieds" thread. If there was such a thing.
#21
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1/4-20 J-bolts with large diameter fender washers and wing nuts, hook the "J" on the rack with the bolt passing upward through the bottom of the crate. Drop a fender washer over the bolt from the top, install and tighten wing nut. After the initial installation all you have to do is loosen the wing nut enough to disengage the "J" and pull the bolts out from the top for storage. A small handlebar bag or seat bag attached to the crate would work great for storing the bolts between trips.
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#22
Regardless of how you end up choosing to secure your crate to the rack, it will always make your bike top heavy and prone to toppling if you don't keep a hand on it while un/load the bag from the crate.
Honestly, for your application, I'd probably look into mounting some DIY hard-sided panniers (kitty litter buckets, small tool boxes, dry boxes, or even ammo boxes) and then strap your bag down across both of them.
Honestly, for your application, I'd probably look into mounting some DIY hard-sided panniers (kitty litter buckets, small tool boxes, dry boxes, or even ammo boxes) and then strap your bag down across both of them.
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#23
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2015
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From: Naperville, IL
Bikes: Jamis Renegade, Trek 820
I use velcro cable straps, like you use for storing extension cords and the like. I have them attached to the cross piece of the bottom of the crate so they line up with the main bars of the rack. Two on each side bar and one at the rear end of the rack to keep the crate from sliding forward. Once I got everything lined up, it was fairly easy to take off and on. No tools and it won't rust. I carry a u-lock, lunch and a pretty heavy laptop backpack in the crate and haven't had any issues with the crate moving around.
#24
Member
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Marquette, MI
Bikes: 88 Nishiki Ariel, 89 DB Apex, mutant tall bike, Sinister R9
I'm so glad you asked! I figured this out earlier this year and I've been so pleased with my dumb little system (which is very close to what murray missile posted above):
I have a rack with a flat spot on the top. I have drilled 2 holes in the flat spot and placed 2 bolts roughly 3" in length so that most of the thread is exposed upward. I used nylock nuts to secure the bolts. I also have 2 flat steel bars (they were the "ends" of a u-bolt setup) that I've drilled for the diameter of the bolts...and 2 wingnuts. I just drop my crate on the rack over the bolts, drop the bars over the bolts, and snug up the wingnuts. It's solid as a rock(!) and it only takes literally like 30 seconds to take on or off. It's far quicker than anything else I've ever seen and quite a bit more solid!
I have a rack with a flat spot on the top. I have drilled 2 holes in the flat spot and placed 2 bolts roughly 3" in length so that most of the thread is exposed upward. I used nylock nuts to secure the bolts. I also have 2 flat steel bars (they were the "ends" of a u-bolt setup) that I've drilled for the diameter of the bolts...and 2 wingnuts. I just drop my crate on the rack over the bolts, drop the bars over the bolts, and snug up the wingnuts. It's solid as a rock(!) and it only takes literally like 30 seconds to take on or off. It's far quicker than anything else I've ever seen and quite a bit more solid!
#25
Keepin it Wheel




Joined: Aug 2011
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From: San Diego
Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus
Albino Wino already made the recommendation I was going to give (u-bolts and wingnuts, drill appropriately-spaced holes in your rack if necessary), but I can add pictures! This is how I made my own fork-mount roof-rack...



