I am just curious. Since the wheel is so big, how do you put a rear rack? And it actually has eyelets...

I don't understand the problem (so I guess others don't as well). When you say the "wheel is so big" do you mean the width of the rear dropouts? If so, most bike racks can bend enough to accommodate that width. Do I misunderstand you?

Just HOW BIG is that rear wheel. If it's a 29r, just about ANY rack made for a 700c rear wheel will fit using the eyelets.

If you need more height, you can mount to the seat stays using "P" clips.

I don't see any problem and wonder if you tried, or even took any measurements before posting.

"Since the wheel is so big"...

Unless its one of those fairly rare 32", or the very rare 36" - which it doesn't look like - there'll be no problem finding a rack with tall enough "legs".
And in the event that you can't find a rack with tall/adjustable enough forward stays, well, those are fairly simple parts, and coming up with some extensions or longer replacements wouldn't earn you the Nobel prize in mechanics.
Or get a seatpost Clamp with rack eyelets and it should be sorted.

The Bontrager Backrack S (or similar design) should work. It has a pair of long adjustable support tubes (not the usual twisted flat metal bars) to accommodate many compact frame bikes. I've had one on my Globe Carmel for more than a year and hauled a lot of stuff on it (up to 50 lbs on weekly shopping and errand trips). Excellent rack for the money.

Thanks. I was wondering how you can put a rack over the wheel when the eyelets are below the wheel.

I don't have the bike. Was just wondering about the design. I have learned something new now

I have this bike. It's no different than any other bike for a rack. 700 x 42 tires are very common.

Mine has a Topeak rack.

I went in to buy that exact bike. I bought it's sister (Marin Muirwoods). For conversation purposes, it is the same frame. This is a Bontreager Rack, Axiom makes a great rear rack that will work good, as well.
Hope this photo helps clarify your question.


-Snuts-

When trying to mount a rack and there are no seatstay attachment points, or the mounting points present are poorly positioned, one can use the seat tube clamp. There are clamps designed for the purpose of rack attachment if the one that came with the bike can't be adapted.

Marin makes great bikes, but I'm not a fan of their dropped seatstay design.


-Kedosto

It says Marin, but I would have no idea what size it is from just a picture and it has no indications of the source of the image, it just opens as a BF attachment. Thankfully somebody here knows what you have. I just looked and it and it looked like the rack would clear, and a few antique bikes I know of actually tend to have racks that slope downward to the seat tube, intentional or not.

+1 for the seat tube clamp with rack stay eyelets . I think this clamp on the Marin with straight tubular rack stays would be cleaner-locking than the original eyelets with a bent stay.

I don't get it, what's the issue here? Not trying to be a smart@$$, genuinely curious what the issue is...?

yup that kind of piece + a skewer mount , using the axle of the rear hub..


Apparently Schools dropped shop , mechanics classes for computer classes..

I had to mount my rack on the IGH through-bolt of my hub; used modified trailer nuts for that. The seat-post rack clamp was cake compared to that.

And here's my Marin Muirwoods 29er with a Topeak rack:

Another alternative, if the bike has poorly placed eyelets, is to get the long rack stays. I had to do this with my Priority.
https://www.topeak.com/global/en/pro...ng-bracket-arm

In hindsight a seat clamp like that one above might have looked cleaner. You don't have to pay $25 for the Salsa label, either

This rack can handle the max load (40 or 50 lbs) when installed like that?

I get a car ride when I have that to get that much in groceries. I'm 247 lbs before the 1/2 dozen tacos I had for dinner.

Racks can carry much, much more than their rated capacities. BITD, I had a friend who routinely carried refrigerator compressors weighing upwards of 100#s. His racks would typically last a year or so before developing serious sag threatening to rub the wheel.

Once on a tour, a bike was rendered unrideable from a crash. We divided and redistributed everything, breaking up the bike into frame and wheels, and spreading the luggage among a few riders. Lastly, we removed the luggage from another rider and spread that around so that person could take the injured rider on his rack. That was 125#s or so, and we were able to go over 100 miles this way before making repairs.

The rack held up fine, and only the engines burned out, so that was spread among 3 of us.

BTW - I'm talking about a period decades back, and the racks of that era would be considered extremely light duty today.

I have installed this Rack Time rear rack to my Giant Toughroad that comes with 29" 50mm wide tyres and I can not say enough good things about it.


The quick release add ons for this rack work so unbelievably well.


The rack which is built by Tubus, only weighs 770grams, including all fittings and is rated for 30kgs/66lbs.

It took me a while to see what the problem is. You just angle the rack stays down so to the upper eyelets. If you are using flat stays, you just bend them. Other racks have attachments that allow the stay to be angled down. For example, this bike just angles them down



My wife had a very small Terry with a 700C rear wheel. It actually took stays that are longer than normal to reach. The rack is a Tubus Vega and, yes, we used only one side of the rack stays. That's really all that is needed

& if you have simple tools you can make your own rack stays using thin metal bar stock from a hardware store. you can make a prototype from cardboard strips to get the length, angles & hole positions perfect. then transfer to the metal bars, cut twist & drill! :-)

The weight is directly over the rack attaching point, so no problem there.