Bar Wrap - 1st Ever Attempt
#6
Callipygian Connoisseur
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,373
Likes: 351
I have built many bikes. I have rebuilt many bikes. I cannot, for my life, wrap handlebars. The last bike I built I brought to my LBS and had them wrap the bars. A man has to know his limitations.
You did a fine job.
-Kedosto
You did a fine job.
-Kedosto
#7
on your lawn
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 175
Likes: 19
From: Minneapolis, MN
Bikes: 1995 Trek 370, 1997 Trek 800 Sport, 2013 Specialized Crossroads Elite, 2016 Trek Emonda ALR5, 1991 Fuji Roubaix
That looks a lot better than my first 5 or so attempts.
Then again, my brother refers to my gift wrapping skills as "taking the gift hostage".
Then again, my brother refers to my gift wrapping skills as "taking the gift hostage".
#12
Master Sarcaster
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 527
Likes: 2
From: DFW, Texas
Bikes: 2018 Allez Sprint, 2016 Trek Crockett Canti
Looks pretty clean. True test would be after a few hundred miles, if gaps open up at the bends. Just eyeballing it, if you spend a lot of time on the tops or hoods, my guess is that you're going to have a gap at the bends at the tops unless that tape is really tight with some really good adhesive.
#13
aka Tom Reingold




Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 44,160
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From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Grade: A
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#14
Thread Starter
Very Slow Rider
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 133
From: E Wa
Bikes: Jones Plus LWB, 1983 Centurion Japanese CrMo bike
Thanks Tom!
When I had it flipped over, working on the dish/truing the rear wheel I noticed a small gap (about 3 mm) under the brake lever mounting point, you don't really put your hands there, so I chose NOT to re-wrap and instead to color over the aluminum with a black felt-tipped pen!

When I had it flipped over, working on the dish/truing the rear wheel I noticed a small gap (about 3 mm) under the brake lever mounting point, you don't really put your hands there, so I chose NOT to re-wrap and instead to color over the aluminum with a black felt-tipped pen!


#15
Thread Starter
Very Slow Rider
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 133
From: E Wa
Bikes: Jones Plus LWB, 1983 Centurion Japanese CrMo bike
Thanks everyone! Here's what I think helped:
1. I watched and followed the Park Tool video on YouTube. VERY helpful
2. I reused the wrap which came with the bars on the donor bike I got. The seller told me he just had them professionally wrapped recently so I "saved" the old wrap. Reason being: it looked in good shape and I figured if I messed it up, it would not cost me anything. This had the added bonus of showing me the wrap angle by where the wrap was already "squished" down.
3. I kept it INCREDIBLY tight. So tight that I wound up with 6" extra tape on both sides.
4. I used electrical taped flipped upside down as and adhesive underlay. This is a very cheap way to boost confidence that it won't come unraveled, especially if you have stop and let go part way
1. I watched and followed the Park Tool video on YouTube. VERY helpful
2. I reused the wrap which came with the bars on the donor bike I got. The seller told me he just had them professionally wrapped recently so I "saved" the old wrap. Reason being: it looked in good shape and I figured if I messed it up, it would not cost me anything. This had the added bonus of showing me the wrap angle by where the wrap was already "squished" down.
3. I kept it INCREDIBLY tight. So tight that I wound up with 6" extra tape on both sides.
4. I used electrical taped flipped upside down as and adhesive underlay. This is a very cheap way to boost confidence that it won't come unraveled, especially if you have stop and let go part way
#16
Thread Starter
Very Slow Rider
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 133
From: E Wa
Bikes: Jones Plus LWB, 1983 Centurion Japanese CrMo bike
#17
Thread Starter
Very Slow Rider
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 133
From: E Wa
Bikes: Jones Plus LWB, 1983 Centurion Japanese CrMo bike
Looks pretty clean. True test would be after a few hundred miles, if gaps open up at the bends. Just eyeballing it, if you spend a lot of time on the tops or hoods, my guess is that you're going to have a gap at the bends at the tops unless that tape is really tight with some really good adhesive.
I will post in this thread when the bike is done and I have commuted on it for a few weeks.
(Note- this is my 1st drop-bar bike too so totally uncharted territory for this flat bar man)
#18
Thread Starter
Very Slow Rider
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 133
From: E Wa
Bikes: Jones Plus LWB, 1983 Centurion Japanese CrMo bike
#19
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 1
Looks like a very neat job.
The bar tops appear to have the wrap wound towards the cockpit though. Your hands' natural tendency is to roll forward on the tops, this action can loosen the tape if it is wound in the opposite direction. Since you wrapped it very tightly and used an adhesive base it may be okay but remember next time when you come off the transition from the levers to situate the winding in the tops so it is wrapped away from the cockpit of the bike.
Same thing with the drops...should wind away from the stem so when your gripping them bar the wrap is in the direction that would tighten with the natural movement of your hand, which appears to be the way you did it.
The bar tops appear to have the wrap wound towards the cockpit though. Your hands' natural tendency is to roll forward on the tops, this action can loosen the tape if it is wound in the opposite direction. Since you wrapped it very tightly and used an adhesive base it may be okay but remember next time when you come off the transition from the levers to situate the winding in the tops so it is wrapped away from the cockpit of the bike.
Same thing with the drops...should wind away from the stem so when your gripping them bar the wrap is in the direction that would tighten with the natural movement of your hand, which appears to be the way you did it.
#20
Thread Starter
Very Slow Rider
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 133
From: E Wa
Bikes: Jones Plus LWB, 1983 Centurion Japanese CrMo bike
Looks like a very neat job.
The bar tops appear to have the wrap wound towards the cockpit though. Your hands' natural tendency is to roll forward on the tops, this action can loosen the tape if it is wound in the opposite direction. Since you wrapped it very tightly and used an adhesive base it may be okay but remember next time when you come off the transition from the levers to situate the winding in the tops so it is wrapped away from the cockpit of the bike.
Same thing with the drops...should wind away from the stem so when your gripping them bar the wrap is in the direction that would tighten with the natural movement of your hand, which appears to be the way you did it.
The bar tops appear to have the wrap wound towards the cockpit though. Your hands' natural tendency is to roll forward on the tops, this action can loosen the tape if it is wound in the opposite direction. Since you wrapped it very tightly and used an adhesive base it may be okay but remember next time when you come off the transition from the levers to situate the winding in the tops so it is wrapped away from the cockpit of the bike.
Same thing with the drops...should wind away from the stem so when your gripping them bar the wrap is in the direction that would tighten with the natural movement of your hand, which appears to be the way you did it.
#22
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 22,676
Likes: 2,642
From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Bar tape looks good, we need to talk about your choices in reading material though.
#24
It's MY mountain

Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 10,172
Likes: 4,229
From: Mt.Diablo
Bikes: Klein, Merckx, Trek
The bar tops appear to have the wrap wound towards the cockpit though. Your hands' natural tendency is to roll forward on the tops,
Same thing with the drops...should wind away from the stem so when your gripping them bar the wrap is in the direction that would tighten with the natural movement of your hand, which appears to be the way you did it.
I'm glad I earned my wrapping chops back when bar tape was 99¢/roll.
OP's grade:
1. Tight and even spacing: A+
2. Bar end tidiness: A
3. Stem end tidiness: A
4. Under the brake lever coverage and neatness: B
If it were my bike, I'd put some red finishing tape on it - a little wider than the black stuff on there now.
#25
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 1
This is debatable of course - I wrap in the direction of my thumb when my hand's in that position - so over and inbound at the drops; over and rearward on the tops. The natural tendency for my hand is to twist toward my thumbs, not away.
I'm glad I earned my wrapping chops back when bar tape was 99¢/roll.
OP's grade:
1. Tight and even spacing: A+
2. Bar end tidiness: A
3. Stem end tidiness: A
4. Under the brake lever coverage and neatness: B
If it were my bike, I'd put some red finishing tape on it - a little wider than the black stuff on there now.
I'm glad I earned my wrapping chops back when bar tape was 99¢/roll.
OP's grade:
1. Tight and even spacing: A+
2. Bar end tidiness: A
3. Stem end tidiness: A
4. Under the brake lever coverage and neatness: B
If it were my bike, I'd put some red finishing tape on it - a little wider than the black stuff on there now.
I know I found out the hard way and had my bars unwrapping on me during a tour. Once I started wrapping in the direction that my hands tended to twist, never has my wrap come loose.




