Also, OP, don't forget about microSHIFT, some of their new prices are better than used brifters (that could well be worn out.)

microSHIFT ? Cycling Transmission Manufacturer

OP, you can probably find all of the parts needed used on CL or similar, but maybe not the price you hope. But if you're patient you can score some good deals. The only problem with that is that if you wait too long you might lose interest in the project, and then you've got parts that you don't need anymore. If it sounds like I'm talking from personal experience, yeah...

yeah, I understand that and need to remember to leave the lab, figuratively, when I post here.

I second the craigslist idea.

I've gotten all sorts of parts off of craigslist, usually for dirt cheap. The only bad experience I've had was a $15 unicycle I bought. And frankly it wasn't even that bad...a bracket was missing that stabilized the wheel, so it's at in my basement for the last 6 months lol.

Back on topic. It really isn't that big of a project. I got a set of 9 speed shimano sora brifters for $25. All this stuff is out there, if as mcours2006 said you're patient, and know what you're looking for.

Bar end shifters are a good idea if OP doesn't want to spend money on STI shifters + brakes. Use the same stem and you could be looking at a $50 conversion.

One can use the same stem regardless.

Sure, but it's a butt-ugly one...

Just the stem?

Well...*:-?

Thanks. It's a MTB stem that has a shock built into. It actually works pretty well.

But you're converting to a drop bar...but you know what they say, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

If your current shifters and brake levers are not integrated, you could potentially keep your shifters and use a pair of tektro dropbar v-brake levers ($30/pair) as long as you can get a dropbar the correct diameter (for your stem and shifters)

if they are integrated right now on flatbar, you could get those used brifters but switch your calipers to mini Vs ($15 each)

You will probably need new cables/housing (likely to need longer runs with dropbars)

It's true that figuring out what positions you would actually use with different bars is a good idea. For strictly aero gains you could consider how aero your total package is (panniers, backpack) and see if there is room to improve that, and if you need to bend farther over to get your body out of the wind, consider clamping on an aerobar setup. But that might not compensate for luggage issues.

mtb addict is the only one to mention the changes in geometry. Adding drop bars stretches the riding position, so while the rider might be very comfortable with the geo and is merely seeking hand position variety, adding the drops might very well stretch the rider uncomfortably.

Frame size recommendations are different depending on flat bar vs drop bar configurations. One simply can't just throw on a set of drop bars and expect the same reach. Riding on the hoods (or drops) is several cm's ahead of the end of the stem. And before someone mentions swapping to a shorter stem, consider the handling compromise when the stem is shortened by those same several cm's.

Of course, if the frame was too small to begin with then go for it.

-Kedosto

And that (among others) is exactly why I for one didn't mention it. That bike looks rather foreshortened as is and if you do a little research you will see that it is marketed to the juvenile sector. I mean that literally. It is a 'Boy's' bike, not a 'Men's' bike. Any 'stretch' from a drop bar stem and handlebars would likely be an improvement in the ergonomics. But in all good conscience the only solution that makes sense for this scenario is to take ~$100 to a bike co-op or Craigslist and buy a drop-bar commuter. Done.

This is an excellent point. When I converted my Pugsley, I went from 110 mm stem to 70 mm. In addition to stem length and rise, the specific bars can change your reach as well. Still an aggressive reach, but that's fine since this is a 'racing' bike. I do use it for errands, but this set-up isn't likely to be the average person's 'commuter' bike.

I'm not certain how insightful this is, but this is my reach on the drop-bar Pug:

IMG_4913 (1).jpg

That looks like a Softride suspension stem. It's a great design, but it was never a big seller, despite the fact that racers using that stem won the mountain bike world championships and mountain bike world cup in the same year. I guess people just liked the he-man look of a suspension fork better.

I agree with those who were recommending adding a clip-on aero bar. I've been using that setup with my mountain bike since the early 1990s, and it's terrific. Nothing changes except that you can ride comfortably in a drop-bar-like position whenever you like.

I'm slow to think of this... have you looked through the vintage MTB drop-bar conversion thread... really long thread and lots of info that may be insightful for your project (it helped with my fatbike drop bar conversion)

Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions

This is very easy and terribly inexpensive, but I can tell you that looking at that bike and what you want to do, you are not going to like the fit. Your bike now has a riser 1" conversion stem with upright bars. Putting drops on there is going to increase your saddle to bar drop as well as increase your reach. If you must do it then keep the stem*, get a set stem/bars w/brake levers and use the stem friction shifters off the original road stem. You can find junk vintage road bikes on Craigslist if need and pull the parts above off of the bike. We have stuff where I live for $20-$30 that would accomplish your task. Drop bars on hybrids and vintage MTN bikes can be pretty cool but mind, the top tubes and geometry are not designed for thus. I have a converted drop bar SS MTN bike with drops that I love to ride the singletrack with around here and am getting ready to convert a Univega Alpine Uno into a "high end" drop bar Enduro bike. Go with what ya love. That's the wonderful thing about bikes. We can do whatever we want with them. Good luck.




*hopefully it is a 26mm clamp

I love the idea of having a bike that doesn't look like anyone else's, and that bike with drops would DEFINTELY qualify! Here's what I would do:
1. A new, higher quill stem. That will get the bars up and closer to you. You need to measure the diameter of your current stem (where it goes into the fork) to get the right size. Its probably 22.2 mm, but make sure! The new stem will cost $20 on eBay.
2. Bars, with a clamp diameter that match the clamp diameter on the new stem. Used, these will cost $20 on eBay.
3. V-brake levers for drop bars. $30 on eBay.
4. 8-speed bar end shifters. These will cost $50 on eBay if you get them used.
5. New cables and housing for brakes and shifters. $30.
6. Bar tape. $20.

So my total comes out to $170. At that price, you could also just consider finding a drop bar bike you like on Craigslist as an alternative. But if you have the time to do the work, you'd end up with a really unique bike!