I'm thinking of changing my commuter over to drop bars. What is a estimate of how much it will cost me? I know I will need a bar, shifters, and brake levers. Here is my current set up.

There’s an endless number of threads about drop bar conversions. Instead of prompting people to rewrite answers already given, I suggest you do some homework FIRST, then get back with more specific questions.

It's not that expensive, just get drops that fit your current stem and the rest is plug-and-play with an adapter here-and-there. Just a few bits-n-bobs really.

I've been a member since 2011 and only have 11 post for this reason. Because there is always some ******* out there that will criticize you for asking a question.

Look, it might seem like a simple question.
But it quickly branches out considerably.
An answer that’s detailed enough to be helpful becomes long, and has been done already.
The more effort a question takes to answer, the fewer answers you get.
Anything that makes the question more specific makes it easier and faster to be helpful.
Like are you OK with bar end shifters?
Friction shifting?
Does it have to be brifters?
How many speeds are on the bike?
Would you consider swapping out the rear wheel?

I’m INVITING you to ask, only to use a format that’s easier to deal with. If you want to interpret that as all-out criticism, I can’t stop you.

All of these are easily solved. Brifters and rear MTB wheel/cassette/mech/brakes should be a piece of cake ... anyway ... here a resource that seems somewhat outdated

Drop bars and disc brakes on a mountain bike - a primer - Singular Cycles

Didn’t say it was difficult as such. Only that there are a lot of options available. Your choice in one spot influences your options elsewhere. Keeping track of all the interactions takes a bit of knowledge.

Also important to ask is why the OP wants drop bars because an adjustable stem could easy solve most of desires of the OP if it's only angle/aerodynamics.

Quill stem and bar, used--$50
8/9 speed STI shifters, used--$80

Your linear pull brakes won't work with STI shifters, so maybe used set of cantilever brakes, $30-40 perhaps.

So, what, $150, maybe.

I converted my Pugsley to drop-bars, not exactly easy with stock parts. I was setting it up for gravel racing (don't ask, it's a long story).

I got a Salsa Woodchipper bars ($50 new) and Gevenalle shifters ($150 new). If I did it over again, I'd go with bar-end shifters, easy and affordable.

So for your commuter, I'd recommend looking at bar-end shifters with the Gevenalle dropbar brake levers - they have brake levers with long and short pull options ($34 new) - https://www.gevenalle.com/product/si...-cable-brakes/

I'd estimate $75 to $100 depending on new versus used parts and how much work you do yourself versus pay a shop to do it for you.

when I did mine I got lucky w drop bars from an old '70s Ross road bike I had in the basement from dumpster diving, not really, actually yard sale scavenging I think. (tried a cpl other bars but the Ross' had the correct matching diameter) used the same stem & rapid fire shift/brake levers. pretty funny how they transferred w no muss & no fuss. looked weird but w my big hands they worked perfectly. I added a steerer tube extender, I think that what it's called to raise the bars up. bike turned out to be an awesome commuter & fast as heck. was also the most comfortable bike I ever rode. never should have sold it

Drops for the hybrid

started with this




ended w this




but before you go hog-wild you should know there are other kinds of bars that might work for you. bunch of samples in this thread
Drop bar or flat bar, which is better for commuting?

I've posted this photo a few times. When I needed more hand positions I added inboard bar ends, and then later an aero bar. He inboard bar ends approximate riding on the hoods of my drop bar bikes.

Have you considered something like a trekking bar? These have multiple hand positions like drop bars, without the hassle of replacing shifting and braking bits. All you'd need is the bar and some bar tape and you're done. You'd also get a wide hand position for climbing that you generally won't get with drops (dirt drops excluded).

This is much simpler than others are letting on... used to be more complicated but mainly because of the cost for drop bar shift levers and availability of new 7 or 8 speed.

Now you can get a reasonably priced pair of Microshift levers that can match your existing Shimano derailleurs. If those don't happen to be Shimano, they would be cheap to replace as well.

I am going to assume you have a Shimano 3x7 setup. This should be all you need. I am not sure if cables come with the shifters so you may need those too. edit: I added the adapters you'll need to use your existing brakes with drop bar levers.

Soma Handlebars | Jenson USA

Velo Polyurethane Bar Tape | Jenson USA

Microshift 7 Speed Road Levers | Jenson USA

Travel Agents | Jenson USA]Search | Jenson USA

Here's a different perspective: it's easier to do this with bar-end shifters than integrated shifters. With integrated shifters, the brake pull and the left shifter pull are too short. You can get drop-bar brake levers with V-brake pull (Tektro RL-520), and the left shifter will be friction instead of indexed, so it can run any derailleur. Burley, for instance, (before their reorganization) used to sell flat/drop conversions for their tandems that consisted of these parts.

The OP is right...this response is very off-putting. It's much easier to answer the question.

Alternately, if you want to be helpful you could link to a search of all these valuable threads you are referring to. However, new stuff becomes available all the time and perhaps an old thread may not be as helpful as you think.

Euro popular, Figure 8 bend Trekking bars will let you keep all your existing brake levers and shifters,
drops require them to all be different.. so will be $ Expensive $, lots more than just the bars and tape..
You also skip costs to add cables, housing, labor.


then you get a nearer and farther reach rather than up/down..

the far reach and a little elbow bend will get you the same ducking down, into a head wind, posture..






...

I like this option...obviously the OP is after more hand positions, this is a great way to get that.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Trekking-Cy...-/360964724194

Thanks for all the responses. It is a shimano 3x8 currently. I was wanting to switch to drops for more hand position and aerodynamics. I found a used pair of shimano st-2300 brifters. I didn't now that my brakes weren't compatible though. So I guess I learned something already. I didn't know it would so expensive to swap them out. I will check out some of the other bars you guys have mentioned.

example; Italian Modolo .

Asian versions are imported to the USA, across the Pacific, for less.

Someone asked what the solution to a problem is, and you tell him that there is one. You answered a question he didn't ask.

I encourage people to find their own solution. In this case, I am supporting his/her search.

I have 5 people finishing their theses in my lab right now, albeit perhaps this isn't the best way to operate on BF.

However, in another post, I did provide a source of info that could be quite useful.

I've worked at places doing scientific research (and loved it). I understand how mentoring works. BF is not a science lab.

[QUOTE=moonedzx9;20049555]I'm thinking of changing my commuter over to drop bars. What is a estimate of how much it will cost me? I know I will need a bar, shifters, and brake levers.

I did this to my Specialized and it didn't cost much. First, I found a handlebar that fit on craigslist for $10. Then I went on Amazon and found a set of integrated brake levers and shifters that fit on a flat bar and matched the road bike's 3x9 setup. I don't remember exactly how much they cost but it was under $50. Those components installed very easily and the brake levers worked better with the road bike brakes than the original levers. The shifters worked fine too. Oh yeah, I had to get a pair of grips. The total was under $100. I really prefer the flat bar for the kind of commuting I do on this bike. Now I have a true "hybrid" bike that weighs under 25 pounds. Good luck on your conversion.

That was around my take, less for the hardware, but some expectation of labor charges. I noted the $99 list price and BSO status of the donor bike, and wrote a post (deleted) about the futility of the assignment. Then I wrote another (also deleted) along the lines of the one [MENTION=114951]dabac[/MENTION] posted asking for clarification as to expectations. Finally I just decided to see what the rest of you would come up with. I haven't been disappointed. I like the Time Trial bar idea. Meh on the Trekking Bar idea. Just never got with the Trekking Bar look. But the advantage of either is that brake and shifter swaps are not necessary. This is huge. When I converted my entry level $1500 Raleigh Coupe Tandem to drops, the investment in Dura Ace DT shifters, Tektro levers, Civia Emerson bars and compressionless brake housing was worth it ($100) IMO. I did my own work, so $150 LBS labor charges saved. For a $99 Walmart BSO... ... meh... but, who am I.