Holy worn brakes, batman!
#1
Thread Starter
2-Cyl, 1/2 HP @ 90 RPM

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From: NYC
Bikes: 04' Specialized Hardrock Sport, 03' Giant OCR2 (SOLD!), 04' Litespeed Firenze, 04' Giant OCR Touring, 07' Specialized Langster Comp
Holy worn brakes, batman!
Ok, so I've had my giant ocr touring for about 3 months, I've put 1200 miles on it and the front brake pads are down to almost nothing. Avid says replace em when the thickness of the pad assembly is down to 3mm. I measured mine at 3.1mm, time to get some new brakes.
Is it normal for disc pads to wear so quickly?
Is it normal for disc pads to wear so quickly?
#4
52-week commuter
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Washington, DC
Bikes: Redline Conquest, Cannonday, Specialized, RANS
It's not the miles, it's how often you stop. I've got about 1600 miles on my brake pads, also disc, and I think they're close to being ready for a new set. I figure I would have gone through five or six sets of rim pads in that time, so it's all relative.
Re: front vs. rear: see https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html . The only time you should use the rear brake is when the front isn't working.
Re: front vs. rear: see https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html . The only time you should use the rear brake is when the front isn't working.
#5
Thread Starter
2-Cyl, 1/2 HP @ 90 RPM

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From: NYC
Bikes: 04' Specialized Hardrock Sport, 03' Giant OCR2 (SOLD!), 04' Litespeed Firenze, 04' Giant OCR Touring, 07' Specialized Langster Comp
I usually use the front + rear together, it helps a lot in the initial stopping. The ironic thing is, my old mtb that I commuted with and rode in the same fashion, went through a set of brakes every maybe 8-10 months.
It's probably cause its the first time I had discs on my commuter road bike and I usually sprint to about 25 or so from a light then jam to a stop a couple blocks down. I just didn't expect these things to wear out that fast.
It's probably cause its the first time I had discs on my commuter road bike and I usually sprint to about 25 or so from a light then jam to a stop a couple blocks down. I just didn't expect these things to wear out that fast.
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Boston, MA
Bikes: 2005 Orbea Dauphine, 1997 GT Timberline
Huh. I had previously been using the back brake for stopping - almost exclusively. I have that fear of flying over the handlebars, I guess. I'll try and break that habbit, but it's been with me for at least a decade...
#7
I drink your MILKSHAKE

Joined: Jul 2002
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From: St. Petersburg, FL
Bikes: 2003 Specialized Rockhopper FSR Comp, 1999 Specialized Hardrock Comp FS, 1971 Schwinn Varsity
Originally Posted by DCCommuter
It's not the miles, it's how often you stop. I've got about 1600 miles on my brake pads, also disc, and I think they're close to being ready for a new set. I figure I would have gone through five or six sets of rim pads in that time, so it's all relative.
Re: front vs. rear: see https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html . The only time you should use the rear brake is when the front isn't working.
Re: front vs. rear: see https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html . The only time you should use the rear brake is when the front isn't working.
https://www.pricepoint.com/detail/111...Brake-Pads.htm
#8
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,141
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From: New Jersey
Originally Posted by DerekU2
Huh. I had previously been using the back brake for stopping - almost exclusively. I have that fear of flying over the handlebars, I guess. I'll try and break that habbit, but it's been with me for at least a decade...
#9
you might get better wear with your second set now that the rotor as smoothed itself out a little. also check out the other brands of avid compatible pads (those avid pads are expensive)
i did notice that on my disk equipped mountain bike i seem to be going through pads faster than on my v-brake equipped bike. even for mtbing i am not quite sold on disks yet. they stop better but i can't beat em up as well without bending a rotor or somehow f@cking them up; wehereas my v-brakes are foolproof (which is good for me).
i did notice that on my disk equipped mountain bike i seem to be going through pads faster than on my v-brake equipped bike. even for mtbing i am not quite sold on disks yet. they stop better but i can't beat em up as well without bending a rotor or somehow f@cking them up; wehereas my v-brakes are foolproof (which is good for me).
#10
I am not a car

Joined: May 2004
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From: Decatur, GA
Bikes: Giant Revel 1, Surly Ogre
Thanks for the heads up, slvoid! I just check my disc pads and yup, they nned to be changed. We got about the same mileage (I'm at 1,150 miles). I hope the 2nd set last longer. Dang urban stop and go traffic!
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#11
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Arizona, USA
Bikes: Mercier Corvus (commuter), Fila Taos (MTB), Trek 660(Got frame for free and put my LeMans Centurian components on it)
Originally Posted by DerekU2
Huh. I had previously been using the back brake for stopping - almost exclusively. I have that fear of flying over the handlebars, I guess. I'll try and break that habbit, but it's been with me for at least a decade...
The one caveat to the front brake rule being gravel or dirt on the road, or riding in loose dirt.
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#14
Rides again
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: SW. Sacramento Region, aka, down river
Bikes: Giant OCR T, Trek SC
Originally Posted by DCCommuter
It's not the miles, it's how often you stop.
Re: front vs. rear: see https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html . The only time you should use the rear brake is when the front isn't working.
Re: front vs. rear: see https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html . The only time you should use the rear brake is when the front isn't working.
Now you've got me curious about my pads. I'll have to check tonight. Alas I had to drive today.
Sheldon's article seems focused more on rim brakes than disk brakes. I don't buy the argument of always using the front. Even in a panic stop, there is some value in hitting the rear as well. So it only helps stop 10% and 90% is handled by
the front. That's still 10% more than using front alone.
Sheldon also did not address the problem of trying to stop on a long steep downhill run. Favoring the rear brake, rim brakes, I blew a rear tire because of the heat buildup. There was still control, but it was a squirmy ride from 30mph to 0mph. I don't know if I would have had any control if the front tire had blown instead of the rear.
So this rider is usually hitting both brakes. The rear gets it just a fraction before the front. With the disc brakes, I noticed I brake less than with rim brakes.
#15
That's a fascinating article. Makes me want to switch brake cables/levers... because I am frequently slowing down with the right hand and signalling with the left, meaning I am only using the rear brake. I wondered why it seemed like I couldn't stop well enough, I think I need to use the front more.
I agree that in a panic stop you might have value to applying the rear brake. My bike is very heavy in the back so I think it unlikely that I can completely unload the rear tire with the front brake. I dunno I'll have to try it.
I agree that in a panic stop you might have value to applying the rear brake. My bike is very heavy in the back so I think it unlikely that I can completely unload the rear tire with the front brake. I dunno I'll have to try it.
#18
Gone, but not forgotten


Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Newtonville, Massachusetts
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Originally Posted by HiYoSilver
Now you've got me curious about my pads. I'll have to check tonight. Alas I had to drive today.
Sheldon's article seems focused more on rim brakes than disk brakes.
Sheldon's article seems focused more on rim brakes than disk brakes.
Originally Posted by HiYoSilver
I don't buy the argument of always using the front.
Originally Posted by HiYoSilver
Even in a panic stop, there is some value in hitting the rear as well. So it only helps stop 10% and 90% is handled by
the front. That's still 10% more than using front alone.
the front. That's still 10% more than using front alone.
Skidding the rear wheel by itself isn't that big a deal, but skidding the rear while braking hard on the front wheel is very likely to cause the bike to fishtail and lose control.
Originally Posted by HiYoSilver
Sheldon also did not address the problem of trying to stop on a long steep downhill run. Favoring the rear brake, rim brakes, I blew a rear tire because of the heat buildup. There was still control, but it was a squirmy ride from 30mph to 0mph. I don't know if I would have had any control if the front tire had blown instead of the rear.
"Long mountain descents, when your front brake hand may get tired, or you may be at risk of overheating a rim and blowing a tire. For this situation, it is best to alternate between the front and rear brake, but not to use them both at once."
Sheldon "Front Brake" BrownCode:
+--------------------------------------+ | Any event, once it has occurred, | | can be made to appear inevitable | | by a competent historian. | | --Lee Simonson | +--------------------------------------+
#19
Thread Starter
2-Cyl, 1/2 HP @ 90 RPM

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From: NYC
Bikes: 04' Specialized Hardrock Sport, 03' Giant OCR2 (SOLD!), 04' Litespeed Firenze, 04' Giant OCR Touring, 07' Specialized Langster Comp
Originally Posted by Map tester
Thanks for the heads up, slvoid! I just check my disc pads and yup, they nned to be changed. We got about the same mileage (I'm at 1,150 miles). I hope the 2nd set last longer. Dang urban stop and go traffic!
#20
Campy or bust :p
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From: Knoxville, TN
Bikes: Surly Karate Monkey commuter build
slvoid, take into account the type of weather you're riding in... obviously if you're riding in rain, sleet, dirt, etc. your pads are going to wear down a lot faster than if you rode predominantly on clean and dry roads. I know NYC's streets aren't exactly the best, so perhaps that's part of it?
#21
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2-Cyl, 1/2 HP @ 90 RPM

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From: NYC
Bikes: 04' Specialized Hardrock Sport, 03' Giant OCR2 (SOLD!), 04' Litespeed Firenze, 04' Giant OCR Touring, 07' Specialized Langster Comp
Originally Posted by cryogenic
slvoid, take into account the type of weather you're riding in... obviously if you're riding in rain, sleet, dirt, etc. your pads are going to wear down a lot faster than if you rode predominantly on clean and dry roads. I know NYC's streets aren't exactly the best, so perhaps that's part of it?
#22
Rides again
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: SW. Sacramento Region, aka, down river
Bikes: Giant OCR T, Trek SC
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
"Long mountain descents, when your front brake hand may get tired, or you may be at risk of overheating a rim and blowing a tire. For this situation, it is best to alternate between the front and rear brake, but not to use them both at once."
#23
Any brakes can overheat and experience brake fade... I guess you can blow the tire first using rim brakes, but disc brakes will fade if you simply apply one or both for a long descent. Just like in a car. Brake pad materials have a certain temperature range they are designed for. I would assume bicycle brake pads are designed for lower temperatures than car pads (cycle discs probably dissipate the heat a lot quicker than car discs, they aren't shrouded by the wheel and the surface area looks like it's a lot larger relative to the amount of heat generated)... but even car pads have a certain temperature above which their performance falls off greatly.
I tried braking hard with only my fronts today, and I couldn't get the rear tire to lift. I have a very heavy rack + trunk on the back, plus I'm not a small guy (200 lbs)... so I think no matter what I can get some value from using both brakes.
However I noticed that having my left hand do the hard braking helps because it allows my right hand to downshift from 7th or 8th gear back into first... so I don't wind up sitting there in a high gear I can't start in.
I tried braking hard with only my fronts today, and I couldn't get the rear tire to lift. I have a very heavy rack + trunk on the back, plus I'm not a small guy (200 lbs)... so I think no matter what I can get some value from using both brakes.
However I noticed that having my left hand do the hard braking helps because it allows my right hand to downshift from 7th or 8th gear back into first... so I don't wind up sitting there in a high gear I can't start in.
#24
Rides again
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From: SW. Sacramento Region, aka, down river
Bikes: Giant OCR T, Trek SC
I don't think I would ever lift the rear wheel, unless maybe if it was a steep downhill and going fast.
But I tend to treat bike brakes like car brakes. Panic stop, don't lock up and keep locked up. Lock up and then modulate as fast as can to get desired reduction in speed. Kind of like anti-lock brakes, but manually.
If descents are very long and you start noticing reduced braking ability, you only choices are to unareo as much as possible and get off the bike and let everything cool down.
But I tend to treat bike brakes like car brakes. Panic stop, don't lock up and keep locked up. Lock up and then modulate as fast as can to get desired reduction in speed. Kind of like anti-lock brakes, but manually.
If descents are very long and you start noticing reduced braking ability, you only choices are to unareo as much as possible and get off the bike and let everything cool down.
#25
One Tough Cookie.
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: West Hartford, CT
Bikes: Too many and not ENOUGH!
Perhaps we should think of the rear brake--in most situations--as more of a "drag" brake--to slow things down, than a "stopper". The front brake is much more useful; I've "tail whipped"--with a disc brake!--by using too much back brake, even in the "loose stuff". Once in the direction of traffic. During rush hour! I was lucky to NOT go down!
Also, use the rear brake to (carefully!) slow down when retaining full steering control (technical terrain, tight traffic) is essential; using the front brake in this case will impede steering or (almost) "jam" it entirely. Foresight in dealing with the conditions/obstacles present can minimize this problem--and the use of the rear brake. Same with "emergency stops" anywhere. These "dual-brake-jammer-sessions" too can be minimized by simply paying attention to what you are doing!
To sum up: Thinking ahead=foresight=safety in braking!
Also, use the rear brake to (carefully!) slow down when retaining full steering control (technical terrain, tight traffic) is essential; using the front brake in this case will impede steering or (almost) "jam" it entirely. Foresight in dealing with the conditions/obstacles present can minimize this problem--and the use of the rear brake. Same with "emergency stops" anywhere. These "dual-brake-jammer-sessions" too can be minimized by simply paying attention to what you are doing!
To sum up: Thinking ahead=foresight=safety in braking!
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