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Winter Build Out Rack/Fender?

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Old 12-03-18 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Phamilton
To complicate things further (because that's what I like to do), I'm also thinking that since I have a spare set of wheels I won't ever bother with riding the studs at higher pressure when roads are clear - I'll just ride my street tires on my other set of wheels. So in theory how the studded tire performs when aired down vs. up is irrelevant. If the gravdals will fit, I think that'd be great.
I'm in Minnesota, not Indiana, so it's possible my experience will differ compared to yours. But here roads being "clear" means little snow left and definitely patches of ice. Here - and with my own personal level of comfort with risk - I do not ride without studs at any time when there's any chance of there being ice on the ground.

It's a weird dynamic...when there's both snow and ice on the ground your tires can often still get some sort of traction. It's the sheer ice where the studs really make a huge difference between grip vs no grip whatsoever. And sheer ice typically shows up on "cleared" roads, and in the spring or fall when it snows/melts/refreezes.
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Old 12-03-18 | 08:11 PM
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My neighborhood hardly ever gets plowed so if it’s slick on my street, the studs will be on. It’s not uncommon to have stretches of a few weeks without precipitation. I don’t really want to ride 800-1000g tires 12 miles each way unless I have to. I do have the ability to work from home if roads are really bad. If it’s a typical winter, I should be able to ride street tires 50% of the time. I think studded tires will get me to work 90%+ of the time. That’s my prediction anyway. My boss doesn’t mind swinging past to pick me up if he needs me in the office, he runs morning errands before work within a mile
or two of my house. I consider myself quite lucky regarding my current employment.

38mm tires will NOT fit under fenders on this bike, so the Gravdals are out. Too tight at the
chainstay bridge.

Edit: I don’t want to delude myself about it, so if push comes to shove I’ll leave the studded tires on. I’m sure I’ll appreciate it more when street tires go back on for the first time in however long. I did the commute for a few weeks last winter on knobby 26” tires. It’s doable but I wouldn’t want to do it all the time.

Last edited by Phamilton; 12-03-18 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 12-04-18 | 01:54 PM
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For what it’s worth, the rolling resistance of the studs and low pressure compared to slicks was way less than I thought on pavement. Yeah, it’s noticeable, but in the context of winter clothes/gloves/goggles/biking safely/traffic going a bit slower, I don’t really notice it.

Im sure switching back to slicks in the spring will be freeing, along with shedding some of the winter gear, but I’m just gonna ride my studs until I know I won’t hit black ice. After all, we’re commuting, not racing

On a different note, any good rim brake pad choices? I’m thinking I’ll just do Salmons unless someone has a better recommendation (I’m pretty sure the pads I have are original/hard af).
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Old 12-04-18 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Nickfrogger
For what it’s worth, the rolling resistance of the studs and low pressure compared to slicks was way less than I thought on pavement. Yeah, it’s noticeable, but in the context of winter clothes/gloves/goggles/biking safely/traffic going a bit slower, I don’t really notice it.

Im sure switching back to slicks in the spring will be freeing, along with shedding some of the winter gear, but I’m just gonna ride my studs until I know I won’t hit black ice. After all, we’re commuting, not racing

On a different note, any good rim brake pad choices? I’m thinking I’ll just do Salmons unless someone has a better recommendation (I’m pretty sure the pads I have are original/hard af).
I'm considering the salmons as well. I sanded the glazing off the factory pads with 60 grit sandpaper and they do OK.

I'm no racer. I'm not a strong cyclist. Heavy tires/low inflation pressures are fatiguing to me. If I break 20mph during the course of a week's riding, it's because I was riding downhill and had a tailwind.
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Old 12-04-18 | 03:07 PM
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[MENTION=288568]Nickfrogger[/MENTION], here's how the 45mm Bluemels mounted up. The front mudflap hangs pretty low, but I could make it even lower if I move the bracket behind the fork. A person could squeeze a 53mm fender in, there should be room under the seatstay bridge and it could probably flex to fit between the fork blades, and it would give better coverage for a wider tire. But on my Multitrack, the chainstay bridge is the limiting factor. I don't know whether all Multitracks have one or not, but it's what keeps mine from having room for a 38mm tire plus fender. The tires pictured measure 35mm wide and 32mm high on my rims. If you've never installed SKS fenders before, some people say they're a chore, but I've put them on my wife's bike and another bike of mine and they're not bad. It took me about 30 minutes to have them installed, but I spent a couple hours fiddling to see if I could squeeze a 38 in w/o success. Leave the ends of the fender stays uncut for a while, they'll shift and bend a little over time until they settle in.
Damn, my bike is filthy.






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Old 12-04-18 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Phamilton
Damn, my bike is filthy.
Good! That's how it should be!

I run a reasonably wealth research group (millions in/out per year) and I love it when stuff wears out. It means that it's been used up/all the way through. That alone is sign of a tool being used as it should.

I like my bikes dirty, it's a sign of good use. I never trust a clean bike/car/train.
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Old 12-09-18 | 02:50 PM
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Not my thread but wanted to thank all for the info/recommendations on studded tires. I ended up ordering the Schwalbe Marathon Winter Plus in 35mm. I missed a good sale on them a couple weeks ago but since I already had to wait for fenders I just saved up a little more money to get em. I’ve changed my tune about their use as well, after a little more critical thinking I realized that sometimes morning conditions and afternoon can be vastly different. NWS hasn’t been hitting the forecast very well lately. I also have access to compressed air at work so if things clear up from am to pm I can ostensibly enjoy a little easier ride home without having to kill my arm using my minipump. So I’m planning to just leave them on all winter. I just wanted the peace of mind from 4 rows of studs, and even though I don’t mind changing a tube when I puncture, I’d much rather just not when it’s really cold - the “plus” is I guess an added puncture protection layer. I understand their rolling resistance is surprisingly good when pumped up. Should be here Tuesday and if NWS is having a good week with their predictions will be enjoying sunshine and warmer temps until then. Cheers all, especially those still out riding in this cold weather.
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Old 12-09-18 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by acidfast7
Good! That's how it should be!

I run a reasonably wealth research group (millions in/out per year) and I love it when stuff wears out. It means that it's been used up/all the way through. That alone is sign of a tool being used as it should.

I like my bikes dirty, it's a sign of good use. I never trust a clean bike/car/train.
I agree 100%.
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Old 12-10-18 | 10:29 AM
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[MENTION=390976]Phamilton[/MENTION], I suggest you do move the front fender behind the fork. That's the normal thing, and you'll enjoy the benefits.
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Old 12-10-18 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by noglider
[MENTION=390976]Phamilton[/MENTION], I suggest you do move the front fender behind the fork. That's the normal thing, and you'll enjoy the benefits.
Yeah, I did that this last weekend. The mudflap was 1" below bottom bracket before and a little over 2" below now. Much better coverage!
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