Winter Build Out Rack/Fender?
#26
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 6,431
Likes: 44
From: Minneapolis, MN
To complicate things further (because that's what I like to do), I'm also thinking that since I have a spare set of wheels I won't ever bother with riding the studs at higher pressure when roads are clear - I'll just ride my street tires on my other set of wheels. So in theory how the studded tire performs when aired down vs. up is irrelevant. If the gravdals will fit, I think that'd be great.
It's a weird dynamic...when there's both snow and ice on the ground your tires can often still get some sort of traction. It's the sheer ice where the studs really make a huge difference between grip vs no grip whatsoever. And sheer ice typically shows up on "cleared" roads, and in the spring or fall when it snows/melts/refreezes.
#27
My neighborhood hardly ever gets plowed so if it’s slick on my street, the studs will be on. It’s not uncommon to have stretches of a few weeks without precipitation. I don’t really want to ride 800-1000g tires 12 miles each way unless I have to. I do have the ability to work from home if roads are really bad. If it’s a typical winter, I should be able to ride street tires 50% of the time. I think studded tires will get me to work 90%+ of the time. That’s my prediction anyway. My boss doesn’t mind swinging past to pick me up if he needs me in the office, he runs morning errands before work within a mile
or two of my house. I consider myself quite lucky regarding my current employment.
38mm tires will NOT fit under fenders on this bike, so the Gravdals are out. Too tight at the
chainstay bridge.
Edit: I don’t want to delude myself about it, so if push comes to shove I’ll leave the studded tires on. I’m sure I’ll appreciate it more when street tires go back on for the first time in however long. I did the commute for a few weeks last winter on knobby 26” tires. It’s doable but I wouldn’t want to do it all the time.
or two of my house. I consider myself quite lucky regarding my current employment.
38mm tires will NOT fit under fenders on this bike, so the Gravdals are out. Too tight at the
chainstay bridge.
Edit: I don’t want to delude myself about it, so if push comes to shove I’ll leave the studded tires on. I’m sure I’ll appreciate it more when street tires go back on for the first time in however long. I did the commute for a few weeks last winter on knobby 26” tires. It’s doable but I wouldn’t want to do it all the time.
Last edited by Phamilton; 12-03-18 at 08:44 PM.
#28
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 102
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From: Minneapolis, MN
Bikes: 2014 Trek 520, 1990 Trek 2300 Pro, 1999 Trek 2100, 1991 Trek 7900, '83 Trek 610 (on permanent loan)
For what it’s worth, the rolling resistance of the studs and low pressure compared to slicks was way less than I thought on pavement. Yeah, it’s noticeable, but in the context of winter clothes/gloves/goggles/biking safely/traffic going a bit slower, I don’t really notice it.
Im sure switching back to slicks in the spring will be freeing, along with shedding some of the winter gear, but I’m just gonna ride my studs until I know I won’t hit black ice. After all, we’re commuting, not racing
On a different note, any good rim brake pad choices? I’m thinking I’ll just do Salmons unless someone has a better recommendation (I’m pretty sure the pads I have are original/hard af).
Im sure switching back to slicks in the spring will be freeing, along with shedding some of the winter gear, but I’m just gonna ride my studs until I know I won’t hit black ice. After all, we’re commuting, not racing

On a different note, any good rim brake pad choices? I’m thinking I’ll just do Salmons unless someone has a better recommendation (I’m pretty sure the pads I have are original/hard af).
#29
For what it’s worth, the rolling resistance of the studs and low pressure compared to slicks was way less than I thought on pavement. Yeah, it’s noticeable, but in the context of winter clothes/gloves/goggles/biking safely/traffic going a bit slower, I don’t really notice it.
Im sure switching back to slicks in the spring will be freeing, along with shedding some of the winter gear, but I’m just gonna ride my studs until I know I won’t hit black ice. After all, we’re commuting, not racing
On a different note, any good rim brake pad choices? I’m thinking I’ll just do Salmons unless someone has a better recommendation (I’m pretty sure the pads I have are original/hard af).
Im sure switching back to slicks in the spring will be freeing, along with shedding some of the winter gear, but I’m just gonna ride my studs until I know I won’t hit black ice. After all, we’re commuting, not racing

On a different note, any good rim brake pad choices? I’m thinking I’ll just do Salmons unless someone has a better recommendation (I’m pretty sure the pads I have are original/hard af).
I'm no racer. I'm not a strong cyclist. Heavy tires/low inflation pressures are fatiguing to me. If I break 20mph during the course of a week's riding, it's because I was riding downhill and had a tailwind.
#30
[MENTION=288568]Nickfrogger[/MENTION], here's how the 45mm Bluemels mounted up. The front mudflap hangs pretty low, but I could make it even lower if I move the bracket behind the fork. A person could squeeze a 53mm fender in, there should be room under the seatstay bridge and it could probably flex to fit between the fork blades, and it would give better coverage for a wider tire. But on my Multitrack, the chainstay bridge is the limiting factor. I don't know whether all Multitracks have one or not, but it's what keeps mine from having room for a 38mm tire plus fender. The tires pictured measure 35mm wide and 32mm high on my rims. If you've never installed SKS fenders before, some people say they're a chore, but I've put them on my wife's bike and another bike of mine and they're not bad. It took me about 30 minutes to have them installed, but I spent a couple hours fiddling to see if I could squeeze a 38 in w/o success. Leave the ends of the fender stays uncut for a while, they'll shift and bend a little over time until they settle in.
Damn, my bike is filthy.





Damn, my bike is filthy.





#31
Banned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 8,543
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From: England / CPH
Bikes: 2010 Cube Acid / 2013 Mango FGSS
Good! That's how it should be!
I run a reasonably wealth research group (millions in/out per year) and I love it when stuff wears out. It means that it's been used up/all the way through. That alone is sign of a tool being used as it should.
I like my bikes dirty, it's a sign of good use. I never trust a clean bike/car/train.
I run a reasonably wealth research group (millions in/out per year) and I love it when stuff wears out. It means that it's been used up/all the way through. That alone is sign of a tool being used as it should.
I like my bikes dirty, it's a sign of good use. I never trust a clean bike/car/train.
#32
Not my thread but wanted to thank all for the info/recommendations on studded tires. I ended up ordering the Schwalbe Marathon Winter Plus in 35mm. I missed a good sale on them a couple weeks ago but since I already had to wait for fenders I just saved up a little more money to get em. I’ve changed my tune about their use as well, after a little more critical thinking I realized that sometimes morning conditions and afternoon can be vastly different. NWS hasn’t been hitting the forecast very well lately. I also have access to compressed air at work so if things clear up from am to pm I can ostensibly enjoy a little easier ride home without having to kill my arm using my minipump. So I’m planning to just leave them on all winter. I just wanted the peace of mind from 4 rows of studs, and even though I don’t mind changing a tube when I puncture, I’d much rather just not when it’s really cold - the “plus” is I guess an added puncture protection layer. I understand their rolling resistance is surprisingly good when pumped up. Should be here Tuesday and if NWS is having a good week with their predictions will be enjoying sunshine and warmer temps until then. Cheers all, especially those still out riding in this cold weather.
#33
Banned
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 8,701
Likes: 2,506
From: Mississauga/Toronto, Ontario canada
Bikes: I have 3 singlespeed/fixed gear bikes
Good! That's how it should be!
I run a reasonably wealth research group (millions in/out per year) and I love it when stuff wears out. It means that it's been used up/all the way through. That alone is sign of a tool being used as it should.
I like my bikes dirty, it's a sign of good use. I never trust a clean bike/car/train.
I run a reasonably wealth research group (millions in/out per year) and I love it when stuff wears out. It means that it's been used up/all the way through. That alone is sign of a tool being used as it should.
I like my bikes dirty, it's a sign of good use. I never trust a clean bike/car/train.
#34
aka Tom Reingold




Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 44,306
Likes: 6,563
From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
[MENTION=390976]Phamilton[/MENTION], I suggest you do move the front fender behind the fork. That's the normal thing, and you'll enjoy the benefits.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#35
Yeah, I did that this last weekend. The mudflap was 1" below bottom bracket before and a little over 2" below now. Much better coverage!
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