Well if you go to a Bike Shop they will get it all together, put it on, and even do after the sale service on it..

Yea Mechanical disc brakes the pad wear adjuster is you.. Avid BB7, for example, does try to simplify it with knobs , but they don't turn themselves.

given you needed help there, I'd go with your friendly local bike shop..



I simply replaced my Avid Mechanical brake calipers with TRP Hy Road hydraulic Cable pulled calipers..

I had Avid's Speed dial levers , dialed them back to short pull end of the scale and went on with my life..

a cantilever short pull lever would do.. I'm the Mechanic , and this worked for me.. this winter..


Namedropping Brands; Magura, German, their basic MTB caliper hose and lever, was about what TRP's Caliper was alone

Shimano, the big dog in the industry,

Avid Juicy Avid is part of Sram group.
that's the big 3..

English made is Hope smaller company, color anodized, looks pretty (Not seen much at all in the States)

Real service free is Sturmey Archers Drum brake hubs.. shoes long , never wear out in your lifetime stop in all weathers

My set are over 30 years old the company was sold and bought by Sun Race moved and expanded, in that time period ..





....

TRP HY/RD is absolutely the easiest swap because it is cable actuated but has a hydro system built in to the caliper, so you just swap the caliper and have hydraulic brakes.
I have them on my commuter bike, I don't think they are quite as nice as a fully hydraulic setup like the Shimano XT M8000 would be but I also don't feel that the braking demands on my commuter are nearly as tough as on the mountain bike.
One note on the TRP HY/RD, for the past year that I have had them I thought they were absolutely horrible brakes! Turned out the pads that came with them were aweful, I put some cheap Jagwire pads in and brakes are quite nice now.

Those sound cool.

Do you still get the super easy 1 finger no effort braking at the levers like you do with full hydro brakes?

Or do they feel like cable brakes at the levers but with no screwing around stopping power at the calipers?

My commuter has drop bars so I can't quite directly compare them to the hydraulic xt m8000 on my mtb. I can say that because there is still a cable you can feel a little stretch under very hard braking but rarely do the brakes need to be pulled that hard, 1 or 2 fingers is usually enough. I get good modulation and don't have to mess with adjusting them. They definitely have some benefits of hydraulics, but don't completely eliminate all the draw backs of cable actuated.
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They sound worth every penny of $125

I looked at them and I'm assuming they are a pretty simple bolt on mod that installs quickly using the existing rotors. Is that right?

Oh yeah, they should be super easy swap.

You are my hero for bringing these to my attention

Braking on my drop bar bike is the one thing I don't about drop bars. With mechanical discs and my short stubby fingers it can be hard to reach the levers and apply much force.

These quick swap outs that solve that problem are brilliant!

I have some cheap Tektros on my newest commuter bike. I like the action and the power but they aren't smooth. I liked the cheap Shimanos on my immediate prior bike a lot better. I got some Shimano pads that are supposed to help but haven't gotten around to installing them yet. This bike is getting used a lot more than fussed with. If I replace them it will be Shimano 8020's because why the heck not? Brakes are IMO the single most important component on the bike although the drivetrain gets all the glam.

Brakes sometimes come fully assembled and bled and you only have to screw them on, but they also come apart. The item description will tell you.

Its a smoother modulation , yea 1 finger tip braking.. my Avid BB7 MTB was really on / off on the front, not much subtlety..

[My full hydros are Magura HS 33 Rim brakes..]






...

I agree with everything you said here about the Tekros being a little clunky.

I have cheap Tekro hydraulics on my commuter too. So I know exactly what you mean.

But even so, they are noticeably better than my gravel bike with mechanical discs as far as stopping power. I'd take the cheap hydros any day. And I'll take that "I need to stop NOW" over a smoother action at the levers.

I think hydro is just the right way to go. Even doing it cheap, it's an upgrade.

Which Jagwire pads did you get, the Sport Organic or the Sport Semi-metallic?

I recently got a bike with HY/RDs - they're my first disc brakes so I have no frame of reference. I really like these brakes, but I could use a little more braking power - I'm 220 lbs. (I believe they're fully bedded in.)

I know nothing about "cheap" hydraulic brakes, or, a combination of cable & "hydraulic brakes: some of those seem to be using vegetable oil or some such and freeze up in cold weather... BUT, I do know that my top of the line, fully hydraulic brakes with DOT 3 automotive brake fluid that I changed to synthetic DOT 4 the second year I had them, … HAS, so far, lasted me over 40,000 Kms, without ever being adjusted, without ever being bled, without me, ever doing anything to them but replacing the pads, (about 3 times) for the last 18 years... WOW how can you ever beat that...??? Well... spend more than you think you need to … I guess...

The organic, here is the packaging. I'm about 250lbs and these stop me pretty well.

Thanks.

I'm on my 3rd year of mine. Cold riding. Hot riding. You name it.

They work as good as new. I've never done any kind of maintenance on my brakes.