Headlight Washout
02-01-19 | 06:13 AM
#53
Banned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 8,543
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From: England / CPH
Bikes: 2010 Cube Acid / 2013 Mango FGSS
like this:
https://www.google.com/maps/@50.7903...7i16384!8i8192
that's what £225K / $300k gets you over here.
02-01-19 | 10:00 AM
#54
Thread Starter
Very Slow Rider
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 133
From: E Wa
Bikes: Jones Plus LWB, 1983 Centurion Japanese CrMo bike
sure. Not with my house, but on some houses, the street lamp is directly at the window and is very difficult to block out.
Like this:
https://www.google.com/maps/@50.7903...7i16384!8i8192
that's what £225k / $300k gets you over here.
Like this:
https://www.google.com/maps/@50.7903...7i16384!8i8192
that's what £225k / $300k gets you over here.
02-01-19 | 10:08 AM
#55
Banned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 8,543
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From: England / CPH
Bikes: 2010 Cube Acid / 2013 Mango FGSS
Maybe I'm slightly high on the price with the Brexit stagnation and all.
https://www.zoopla.co.uk/property-hi...4-0eu/42608119
https://www.zoopla.co.uk/property-hi...4-0eu/42608119
02-01-19 | 10:43 AM
#56
Let's Ride!
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,588
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From: Lexington, VA USA
Bikes: --2010 Jamis 650b1-- 2016 Cervelo R2-- 2018 Salsa Journeyman 650B
It's dark on my commute both directions so I rely heavily on my headlight this time of year.
Most of my commute is on a dedicated bike lane next to a two-lane road. When it's really dark, the headlights from oncoming traffic wash out my headlight and I can't see anything until they pass. There are very few street lights to mitigate this problem.
Any suggestions?
Most of my commute is on a dedicated bike lane next to a two-lane road. When it's really dark, the headlights from oncoming traffic wash out my headlight and I can't see anything until they pass. There are very few street lights to mitigate this problem.
Any suggestions?
i think cars headlights have gotten brighter as well. if you are using AA batteries you should probably consider a light that is usb rechargeable.
02-01-19 | 10:46 AM
#57
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 30,454
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From: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
Wearing a brimmed cycling cap you might avoid being dazzled by the oncoming headlight, and so still able to see where you are going..
The plan ; just drop your head, lower your view the cap brim will block the lights so you can see again after they pass..
now back to the home shopping channel...
The plan ; just drop your head, lower your view the cap brim will block the lights so you can see again after they pass..
now back to the home shopping channel...
02-01-19 | 11:29 AM
#58
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,192
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From: Chicagoland
Bikes: Specialized Hardrock
There is, and you'll find everything from zealots preaching the wonders of dim dynamo lights to people who can actually see where they are going.
02-01-19 | 11:34 AM
#59
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 8,543
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From: England / CPH
Bikes: 2010 Cube Acid / 2013 Mango FGSS
I should've guessed that E Wa was in the US and not participated in this discussion.
02-01-19 | 11:35 AM
#60
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Chicagoland
Bikes: Specialized Hardrock
Interesting that you 2 think less light is going to be better. While reality doesn't work that way, I'm sure you'll enlighten us (pun intended) as to how that's going to help.
02-01-19 | 11:49 AM
#61
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From: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
FWIW ~ I use an original Magicshine w/ a wide angle diffuser & I added a beam cutoff hood (so I don't blind "them"). seems to do pretty well even w oncoming traffic
however, past cpl months been riding off road. took the beam cutoff hood off. when aimed higher it's great off road.
but at perpendicular traffic (riding to the trails) it's pretty formidable
however, past cpl months been riding off road. took the beam cutoff hood off. when aimed higher it's great off road.
but at perpendicular traffic (riding to the trails) it's pretty formidable
Last edited by rumrunn6; 02-01-19 at 04:24 PM.
02-01-19 | 12:23 PM
#62
Happy banana slug
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 4,545
Likes: 2,493
From: Arcata, California, U.S., North America, Earth, Saggitarius Arm, Milky Way
Bikes: 1984 Araya MB 261, 1992 Specialized Rockhopper Sport, 1993 Hard Rock Ultra, 1994 Trek Multitrack 750, 1995 Trek Singletrack 930
Cool. It's beautiful here on Humboldt Bay; it's all flat, surrounded by the Trinity Alps, or at least their foothills, so you can pick your terrain. Lots of hiking, cycling, mtb, kayaking, and more artists per square foot than I've ever seen.
02-01-19 | 12:24 PM
#63
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 6,977
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From: Washington, DC
I’ve found the worst situation is where the bike lane or path is below the grade of the road, there is no overhead lighting, and you are on the same side of the road as oncoming traffic. The light from cars in your eyes, the shadow on the ground in front of you, and oncoming bikes on the left make it nearly impossible to see. This is where really bright lights help the most. Adding rain and twists and turns to the path make it even more difficult.
02-01-19 | 12:52 PM
#64
Thread Starter
Very Slow Rider
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 133
From: E Wa
Bikes: Jones Plus LWB, 1983 Centurion Japanese CrMo bike
I’ve found the worst situation is where the bike lane or path is below the grade of the road, there is no overhead lighting, and you are on the same side of the road as oncoming traffic. The light from cars in your eyes, the shadow on the ground in front of you, and oncoming bikes on the left make it nearly impossible to see. This is where really bright lights help the most. Adding rain and twists and turns to the path make it even more difficult.
The tricky part is berms of snow and pine needles collect in the bike lane, making the rideable area that much narrower as well. My commute times jump up when it's warmer, I bet, because I am not as tentative!
02-01-19 | 01:49 PM
#65
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
Traditional Bike caps cleverly let you flip up the brim for those occasions ... + you can wear them under your helmet..
...
02-01-19 | 03:59 PM
#66
Unlisted member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,192
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From: Chicagoland
Bikes: Specialized Hardrock
I’ve found the worst situation is where the bike lane or path is below the grade of the road, there is no overhead lighting, and you are on the same side of the road as oncoming traffic. The light from cars in your eyes, the shadow on the ground in front of you, and oncoming bikes on the left make it nearly impossible to see. This is where really bright lights help the most. Adding rain and twists and turns to the path make it even more difficult.
02-01-19 | 04:20 PM
#68
Senior Member
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 921
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From: Southeast US
I added a little tab to the front of my helmet so the tab drops down over my left eye. It stays out of the way above the eye unless I lower my head and turn it to the right a little, then it blocks really bright light coming from that side. It works pretty well for most cases I run across, which is cars coming from the opposite direction on two-lane roads. It also did OK for sunset yesterday when the sun was peaking out from under the cloud deck and spearing me in the eye. It's better than not having it. It wouldn't do as well on a four-lane road or with a long line of on-coming traffic when on a bike path because then the light wouldn't be a point source and would be more spread out.
02-02-19 | 11:41 AM
#70
Keepin it Wheel
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,963
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From: San Diego
Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus
My headlight is the same as this (I don't believe the claimed 2000 lumen rating), and I usually run it on medium, aimed so I get an ellipse on the ground with a size and position that shows me as much as I need to see, and it works great.
But last night I was riding on a mup that was on the 'left' side of the road so I was against traffic. The mup is even elevated 5-10ft above the road, so in theory car headlights should not be an issue, but I was seriously blinded. It was a problem, because that path in particular is riddled with sharp bumps from tree roots that you need to watch out for, or they could potentially throw you.
I found if I put my light on high instead of just medium, and also tilted my head to block out some headlight glare with my helmet visor, vision was acceptable.
I was only on that mup last night because I took a different route than usual, for the sake of variety. I will avoid that route at night in the future
02-03-19 | 02:33 AM
#71
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From: England / CPH
Bikes: 2010 Cube Acid / 2013 Mango FGSS
Thus, I'll rephrase, where people have adequate structure, minimum being segregated cycleways in the same direction of traffic, a proper StVZO-approved headlight is optimal.
If you're riding under less adequate conditions, blazing everything in front of you might be useful.
Also, you need to adjust your tone with me, should you ever want a response again.
02-03-19 | 12:33 PM
#72
Mad bike riding scientist
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Denver, CO
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
I apologise and have forgotten that you don't have dedicate infrastructure where you don't ride into on coming headlights like we do.
Thus, I'll rephrase, where people have adequate structure, minimum being segregated cycleways in the same direction of traffic, a proper StVZO-approved headlight is optimal.
Thus, I'll rephrase, where people have adequate structure, minimum being segregated cycleways in the same direction of traffic, a proper StVZO-approved headlight is optimal.
Your arguments just don’t hold water. There is as many light sources in large cities in Europe as there are in the US. You’ve made the same illogical leap that many people make in that you think you need less light in cities than out in the sticks. The opposite is actually true. Count the number of light sources within eyesight of you some time at night and then think about competing with all those lights. A dim light designed to annoy no one gets lost in the sea of light you’ll find in every city on the planet. A StVZO light isn’t optimal.
If you're riding under less adequate conditions, blazing everything in front of you might be useful.
Also, you need to adjust your tone with me, should you ever want a response again.
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Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
02-03-19 | 01:43 PM
#73
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 6,431
Likes: 44
From: Minneapolis, MN
I bought my brother the Fenix BC30R ($130)
https://www.fenixlighting.com/produc...ix-bike-light/
If that's to expensive you could buy a niterider 1000 for $60:
https://www.amazon.com/NiteRider-Rec...dp/B07DG9MXFN/
That's the lowest I would recommend going. A "1500 lumen" light that runs off 3 AA's is simply lying about it's lumen capacity.
If you wanted to throw an endless amount of money at the problem a Lupine makes a 900 lumen shaped beam light with high mode and a very nice led for $600:
https://www.lupinenorthamerica.com/S...Bike_Light.asp
But that would be rediculous for your needs. You be able to see substantially better with a 1,000 lumen Niterider light compared you have now, for $60 or so.
Last edited by PaulRivers; 02-03-19 at 05:17 PM.
02-03-19 | 02:03 PM
#74
Thread Starter
Very Slow Rider
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 133
From: E Wa
Bikes: Jones Plus LWB, 1983 Centurion Japanese CrMo bike
There are lights that just straight up lie about their lumen ratings. It sound like that's what you are running into. A 4AA battery light typically gets you around 200 lumens. Frankly...I wish this wasn't the case, but no AA battery lights are going to be bright enough to overcome oncoming headlights with streetlights.
I bought my brother the Fenix BC30R ($130)
https://www.fenixlighting.com/produc...ix-bike-light/
If that's to expensive you could buy a niterider 1000 for $60:
https://www.amazon.com/NiteRider-Rec...dp/B07DG9MXFN/
That's the lowest I would recommend going. A "1500 lumen" light that runs off 3 AA's is simply lying about it's lumen capacity.
If you wanted to throw an endless amount of money at the problem a Lupine makes a 900 lumen shaped beam light with high mode and a very nice led for $600:
https://www.lupinenorthamerica.com/S...Bike_Light.asp
But that would be rediculous for your needs. You be able to see substantially better with a 1,000 lumen Niterider light compared you have now, for $60 or so.
I bought my brother the Fenix BC30R ($130)
https://www.fenixlighting.com/produc...ix-bike-light/
If that's to expensive you could buy a niterider 1000 for $60:
https://www.amazon.com/NiteRider-Rec...dp/B07DG9MXFN/
That's the lowest I would recommend going. A "1500 lumen" light that runs off 3 AA's is simply lying about it's lumen capacity.
If you wanted to throw an endless amount of money at the problem a Lupine makes a 900 lumen shaped beam light with high mode and a very nice led for $600:
https://www.lupinenorthamerica.com/S...Bike_Light.asp
But that would be rediculous for your needs. You be able to see substantially better with a 1,000 lumen Niterider light compared you have now, for $60 or so.
02-03-19 | 02:28 PM
#75
Banned.
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Originally Posted by Spoonrobot
Lumens aren't going to make a difference if they're not directed properly. Throw/Lux is more important than overall brightness.
