Generally batteries also have a tolerance. So if the battery has a 3 hr life and u used it for 2 hours, it's safe to assume it needs a 2/3rds charge. If a full charge takes 9 hours, you can safely set the timer for about 6.5 hours and it might over charge like 5%, which won't kill it, and it'll be full. the danger is if you use one that constantly is set for 9 hours, so you end up overcharging it by 1/3rd instead of like 1/20th.

Problem with a battery pack and getting a dV/dT temperature based charger is, while the thing can detect dV, it can't detect dT w/o a probe. Mmm... probe... *snaps on glove*

A Maha comes with the probe attached. It's worth the money especially if you have more than one battery pack to charge. It will also charge just about every battery pack available for all kinds of other equipment.

exactly

cyccommute....

To elaborate on this a little, the bike light that will come with an "overnight charger" will explain this in the instructions. (about partial charging and the time) . Only they will not have any timer on the charger.
That is why I suggested a timer. It works, and it is being done every day for this kind of a product in this example. It's much better than staying nearby and trying to remember to unplug it when it's done, which is what the light company is actually having you do without the timer. Of course it is not as good as an automatic charger, but it's an improvement. You still need to know your usage time, it's not sophisticated but it works.


slvoid.... I can't believe I even responded to a post that mentions the "glove" and probe in it. AAGGHH !!

These people won't buy a $90 light, I'm not sure if they'll want to buy a $90 charger when with a little bit of brain (well if i use the light 2 hours and the batt's supposed to last 4 hours and it takes 10 hours to charge, i'll set my timer to 6 hours), a $5 charger can get you about 90% as much life. Then again, who am I to talk, with my fancy light & motion dual light.

Also, that probe is external, my battery pack has the cells encased inside half an inch of injected foam in a small bottle. The connector has 4 prongs, 1 of them is for the built in probe, should I wish to buy a smart charger.

Exactly, I mean, if you're too stupid to figure out that if you use the battery halfway, that you should charge a little over halfway to ensure a full charge, then yeah I guess you need a butler to do it. Otherwise, a $5 timer will work.
A 5-10% overcharge won't do any harm to the battery. I've never heard of a bridge or building collapsing because it was operating 10% outside specs.

I don't think it's a matter of being stupid.... I mean sure you can estimate your usage time but if you're 5% off each day it would cause problems in the longrun...

cycco: that maha looks sweet. Its crazy expensive but still cheaper than the smart charger that light & motion sells. would it really fit the L&M battery though? I know they claim it's universal but this connector looks kinda proprietary.

I think I'll just go for one of these L&M solos for now and hope the trickle charger doesn't kill my battery until I can get something better...

The connector does look funky but you could try and get a spare cord and cut it apart. Even though the connector looks different, it still runs on the same principle as all electrical systems, i.e. 1 lead in 1 lead out.

I have used the Planet Bike Alias and really like it a lot-- it seems lighter than the NR Trail Rat. I also have used the Trail Rat, and it has been a fine, dependable light. I bought 2 Trail Rats so I have 2 batteries and 2 chargers-- somes in handy for long summer night rides. I commute on a few different bikes, hence the multiple lighting setups.

BUT-- When I have to commute on routes with a lotof car traffic I am basically invisible to cars-- my little 10-15 watt lights disappear in the field of car lights. A bright Xenon white blinkie or a decent expensive HID light seems to help one stand out in a field of car lights on city streets.

Light up the nght! Ride on--

For years, my wife and I have been using ordinary LED lights with rechargeable AA and AAA batteries, and are far more satisfied with this arrangment than with 'rechargeable light systems.' LED lights can burn bright a long time between recharges, even in the dark of winter. We briefly experimented with a rechargeable light system, but were disappointed. It had halogen bulbs, and halogen bulbs are not the most efficient at energy usage. This meant having to constantly recharge and still have the light suddenly go dim on a long winter's evening.

BTW the l&m nimh batteries are interchangeable.
If I got a l&m nimh HID now, I can fully interchange the batteries between that and my halogen setup.

I got a reply from Cygolite concerning their lights that don't have a automatic charger and using a timer, here is first my letter then their letter:

(My letter)

Subject: charging NiMh batteries

Your Explorer line of lights use a NiMh battery but the charger is not a smart charger so how do we know when the battery is properly charged for the length of time we use the battery?

Isn't the NiMH chemistry is very sensitive to temperature. If I get the battery too hot during charging, as can happen if I buy a cheap wall timer, I will kill the battery.

Don't I need a charger that measures the change in voltage (dV) and measures the change in temperature (dT) to prevent this damage and if so where do we get one and how much are they?

(Cygo's reply)

We suggest following the charging times shown in the manual. A fully charged battery will be warm to touch so you can dtermine if a battery is charged by touching the bottom or sides of the water bottle. If a battery is hot during charging, that means it has reached its capacity and the battery is getting rid of the excess energy through heat.

A timer could help you from overcharging the battery if you do not monitor your charge times.

Sincerely,

Ed
-

froze:

I dumped the charger that came with my performance "ViewPoint" light, and use a peak charger I have from RC stuff.

Check this one: https://www.servocity.com/html/cg-340_charger.html

or the one I have: https://www.servocity.com/html/super_brain_charger.html

Finally took the L&M Solo on a dusk/night ride from work back home. Some feedback:

a. The mounting was OK. The velcro strap attachment to the frame is a bit of a pain since it needs to pass under the cable; I had some issues in terms of the strap hooking on prematurely when I was trying to pass it under the cabling. The mount for the headlamp unit has a big thumbscrew; it goes on quite easily and clamps securely.
b. Adjusting the light was very easy. The light can be swiveled on its base, rotated about a horizontal axis and the beam width can be changed. I tried the first two while I was riding and it was quite easy and intuitive.
c. Performance was excellent. The beam has a good reach and provided ample visibility, even during dusk.

Overall, I am happy with the purchase.

There is your answer. It is really a non issue. I bought a cheap christmas tree timer and use it to charge mine every day. I have the night rover extra. There is an on and off tab on the timer. Simply remove the "on" tabs and leave one "off" tab in place.

Then turn the timer to the start time and 17 hours later, it turns off. (That is what i set mine to.) Sometiemes the simplest solutions are the best. This works perfectly.

Does the L&M Solo have a quick release for the lights? I'm looking at lights ATM and would like one that is quick to mount and unmount from the bike.

Yea, the l&m just slides on and off the mounting base. Being where you are, latvia, it might actually be wise not to buy an advanced l&m light cause they use a proprietary and expensive bulb. The l&m commuter is the only one that uses a standard halogen lamp bulb. The niterider halogen lights also use standard halogen bulbs that you can find easily.

I was just checking out the L&M site and saw that. Thanks for the heads up.

When I got it, it was DOA. Not only that, but one of the contacts had dirt on it. Since it was packed in sealed bags, I think that the manufacturer sent out a refurb. I don't think it was Performance. Anyway, I returned it and won't be buying another Night Hawk brand product again.

for the money i think the new 1watt LED's are where it's at VS the 10watt halogen systems, they put out the same amount of light & it's a nicer color with higher contrast

the cateye power opticube (used it)
the planet bike one (haven't used it, the optics aren't supposed to be as good as the cateye though)
the cycgolite 1watt LED system with a recharable NiMh (using it now, it's great)

longer battery life, no worry about blowing out bulbs, longer bulb life, less expensive, same amount of light, but better quality light

Do you have a 10 w halogen to compare side by side in the dark? Can you get your hands on one to try it? From what I have read in a magazine comparison test they really are NOT the same as a 10w halogen. Only if you shove the light meter right against the lens of the light is it as strong, but with a much narrower beam. I would love to hear from someone who has compared the two in person. A friend of mine is thinking about buying the same light you have.

my vote is for the niterider trailrat 2.0

If you buy it and an extension cable, you can tuck the battery in your seat bag. It gives about 2hrs on a full battery. If you need more capacity, I think they have a water bottle style battery as well.

What you read is correct; the LED is not as bright as a 10watt halogen nor does it throw a wide beam like the halogen so you end up with a small bluish spot beam about 2 feet in diameter (some less) that in itself "may" be as bright-if your lucky, but everything else to the sides is dark. Plus these higher output LED's battery life is almost as bad as the halogen anyways, and the LED's cost at least twice as much as a halogen...why bother?

Okay. For my second attempt, I've ordered a Light & Motion Commuter 13W Halogen to replace the DOA Night Hawk discussed earlier in this thread. I'll cross my fingers and let you know how it turns out. The reviews seem to be better for the Light & Motion products.

Wouldn't you solve this problem by leaving the light on when you get home until it is fully discharged and then recharging it for the exact amount of time suggested. For a commuter, that would mean leaving the light on while you have dinner. Then leaving it charging overnight. In the morning you are charged and ready to go.

It's not really a problem. Many, many, different companies, and different models from each company are run this way every day. The total life of the battery is reduced a little but not much and consumers just live with it.

One has to be careful not to leave the light unattended and have it run down too far, that will kill the battery too. Some lights don't have any circuitry to protect from this problem either.

Plus some of the lights need 14 hours to recharge so you need to know what time you are getting up to go to work and start it early enough. If you need to leave the house at 6:00 am you may need to start charging at 4:00 pm for a full charge. What if you get home at 6:00 for example? Some charge fast enough so this is not a problem.

The lights vary, what will work for one light may not work for another. Some types of batteries last longer if you don't run them way down often. One just has to read the instructions for the individual light.