18 miles each way commute?
#1
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18 miles each way commute?
Is this a lately insane to get back into the groove?
As of today I do not have a nicely built commuter bike. I plan on doing it on my beater. DONT! ASK! LOL.
But I am wondering, what do you folks think? Am I going overboard here? Back in the day I used to do 20 miles a day on my road bike.
This time around I want to get back into cycling but mostly doing commuting. My commute would be 18 miles one way. Obviously I am going to see how it all goes doing this only one way, one day at a time. Then eventually I will do it twice. Once in the morning once in the afternoon. Good way to get back in shap, saves lots of $$$ in gas as well.
I am looking around for a introductory commute bike.
I stand at 5'8"
I am not in the best shape right now, but I do hold my own.
What would you recommend?
I did, read the intro thread for commuting I am also reading alot about cyclocross bikes. Should I go to my local bike shop and have a conversation with them?
What would you do now if you had to start all over knowing what you know today?
As of today I do not have a nicely built commuter bike. I plan on doing it on my beater. DONT! ASK! LOL.
But I am wondering, what do you folks think? Am I going overboard here? Back in the day I used to do 20 miles a day on my road bike.
This time around I want to get back into cycling but mostly doing commuting. My commute would be 18 miles one way. Obviously I am going to see how it all goes doing this only one way, one day at a time. Then eventually I will do it twice. Once in the morning once in the afternoon. Good way to get back in shap, saves lots of $$$ in gas as well.
I am looking around for a introductory commute bike.
I stand at 5'8"
I am not in the best shape right now, but I do hold my own.
What would you recommend?
I did, read the intro thread for commuting I am also reading alot about cyclocross bikes. Should I go to my local bike shop and have a conversation with them?
What would you do now if you had to start all over knowing what you know today?
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I am working up to a 35mile each way commute :-) 18 miles should be doable.
The style bike is largely going to be a matter of your environment (road conditions, what kind of weather you get etc) and your comfort level. Go have fun at a LBS
-D
The style bike is largely going to be a matter of your environment (road conditions, what kind of weather you get etc) and your comfort level. Go have fun at a LBS
-D
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Originally Posted by derath
I am working up to a 35mile each way commute :-) 18 miles should be doable.
The style bike is largely going to be a matter of your environment (road conditions, what kind of weather you get etc) and your comfort level. Go have fun at a LBS
-D
The style bike is largely going to be a matter of your environment (road conditions, what kind of weather you get etc) and your comfort level. Go have fun at a LBS
-D
Plus the health benefits outweigh everything else.
#4
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One of my commutes is 17 miles, by the short route. In the afternoon, I sometimes take routes that are much longer.
You could try one way each day. Drive to work with the bike in the car, and ride home. The bike in the morning & drive home. Or just keep the car at work as a safety valve, in case of a bad day.
You could try one way each day. Drive to work with the bike in the car, and ride home. The bike in the morning & drive home. Or just keep the car at work as a safety valve, in case of a bad day.
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Osirisdon -- I do just over 12 mi one way on my comute so I think 18 is doable with practice and training. You are on the right track to start slowly with one way trips and build up as you get more used to the distance. I'm sure you've already come across suggestions on how to break the trip up and get used to it. Many of those ideas will be very helpful to you, but pick and choose what works for you -- there are no absolutes in the commuting world.
On your current bike I would suggest using slick tires that are fairly narrow to reduce your rolling resistance. As for new bikes, much of what you choose will have to do with personal preference and your local conditions. If you ride gravel paths or really bad roads, you might want to steer away from roadbikes and consider cyclocross or hybrids. You will find tons of threads on bike preferences, in the end we each choose what works for us, based on what we can afford and what is available in our area.
I would definitely check out your LBS or even more than one to find a shop you like. As a relative newbie you will use them a good bit so it is worthwhile finding a shop that deals with commuters and can offer you good advice. Some shops seem so geared to the Lance wannabes or the mudspattered mountain bikers that they seem reluctant to take time out for the mundane commuter. You'll probably need stuff for your current bike so its a good excuse to hit a few LBS to see what sort of service you get and how hard they push their stock. If you don't feel comfortable with the shop move on to another.
As I'm sure you've already read, do lots of test rides to see how different bikes feel and handle. Use the web to double check the sales pitch and try to resist the urge to buy the first thing that catches your eye. What ever you buy make sure you look for dropouts to attach racks (since you will definitely want panniers or rack bags rather than a backpack for 18 miles). You'll want to make sure there are attachment points for a couple of water bottles and any other items you might want to tack on. Stems that offer multiple adjustments are usually easier to fine tune to your needs -- especially since those needs will change over the first 6 months of your ride as you settle in to the distance.
Remember that commuter bikes do a lot of work so they need maintenance and sometimes heavier components are a better choice than the lightest weight item. At 180 miles a week (if you ride the full roundtrip every day) you will be putting serious miles on your bike and need to outfit it accordingly.
On a final note you can shop around at places like Alertshirts.com and other online places for cheap polyester t-shirts and shorts, etc. to outfit yourself comfortably to lessen the cost of bike commuting. If you really get into it then you can always upgrade to a spndex wardrobe in the future. Even at this point I am quite a ways from wanting a spandex wardrobe (a point of view shared by many riding behind me).
On your current bike I would suggest using slick tires that are fairly narrow to reduce your rolling resistance. As for new bikes, much of what you choose will have to do with personal preference and your local conditions. If you ride gravel paths or really bad roads, you might want to steer away from roadbikes and consider cyclocross or hybrids. You will find tons of threads on bike preferences, in the end we each choose what works for us, based on what we can afford and what is available in our area.
I would definitely check out your LBS or even more than one to find a shop you like. As a relative newbie you will use them a good bit so it is worthwhile finding a shop that deals with commuters and can offer you good advice. Some shops seem so geared to the Lance wannabes or the mudspattered mountain bikers that they seem reluctant to take time out for the mundane commuter. You'll probably need stuff for your current bike so its a good excuse to hit a few LBS to see what sort of service you get and how hard they push their stock. If you don't feel comfortable with the shop move on to another.
As I'm sure you've already read, do lots of test rides to see how different bikes feel and handle. Use the web to double check the sales pitch and try to resist the urge to buy the first thing that catches your eye. What ever you buy make sure you look for dropouts to attach racks (since you will definitely want panniers or rack bags rather than a backpack for 18 miles). You'll want to make sure there are attachment points for a couple of water bottles and any other items you might want to tack on. Stems that offer multiple adjustments are usually easier to fine tune to your needs -- especially since those needs will change over the first 6 months of your ride as you settle in to the distance.
Remember that commuter bikes do a lot of work so they need maintenance and sometimes heavier components are a better choice than the lightest weight item. At 180 miles a week (if you ride the full roundtrip every day) you will be putting serious miles on your bike and need to outfit it accordingly.
On a final note you can shop around at places like Alertshirts.com and other online places for cheap polyester t-shirts and shorts, etc. to outfit yourself comfortably to lessen the cost of bike commuting. If you really get into it then you can always upgrade to a spndex wardrobe in the future. Even at this point I am quite a ways from wanting a spandex wardrobe (a point of view shared by many riding behind me).
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I won't even try to top Marylandnewbies' post. It say all the basic stuff so elegantly. I only want to comment of the fringe stuff, the freakish emergencies sort.
On my regular routes I have memorized the locations of all accessible port-a-potties and public toilets (McDonalds etc). More than once this knowledge has prevented an accident. Also god to learn if you need to add or remove a layer during rain-wind-snow.
Got your tools, spares tubes 2 0r 3), cell phone, ID, money. A short commute you can walk home or to work. Not likely with 18 miles. Secure parking at work. Try hard to get inside parking. Companies and/or building owners need to be approached very carefully about this sometimes. Outside check threads on locks and check out https://bikeforums.net/video/
On my regular routes I have memorized the locations of all accessible port-a-potties and public toilets (McDonalds etc). More than once this knowledge has prevented an accident. Also god to learn if you need to add or remove a layer during rain-wind-snow.
Got your tools, spares tubes 2 0r 3), cell phone, ID, money. A short commute you can walk home or to work. Not likely with 18 miles. Secure parking at work. Try hard to get inside parking. Companies and/or building owners need to be approached very carefully about this sometimes. Outside check threads on locks and check out https://bikeforums.net/video/
#7
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Yea, you can do a search and find a million threads on commuter bike selection. But if you tell us how much you're willing to spend on a bike we'd be happy to make a few suggestions. It's good that you've already been reading up on various bikes. You should take all the knowledge you can when shopping. You will probably know more about bikes than a few salespeople.
And a few things are crucial. Like, is this really going to replace your car during the week? That would be excellent, and you might want to spend a little more if that is indeed the case. Also; tell us more about your shortest route. Is it flat or hilly? Is the pavement nice all the way? Or do you have to deal with bad roads or dirt paths? What's the weather like where you are?
Also consider whether or not you can store your bike inside the workplace during the day, or if you will be locking it up outside. If you have to lock it up outside you might consider a second hand beater, as it will be less attractive to thieves. I'm not talking about a worn out bike that might leave you stranded. But a used one, with some obvious wear and tear on the frame, that is mechanically refurbished so that it will be reliable daily transportation. Depending on your budget, that might be the best choice anyway.
I used to ride 30 miles to work on my single speed Surly Crosscheck cyclocross bike. The route included a few really decent hills and took me two hours in the morning. However, I only road it one way, two or three times a week. If I was feeling froggy, I'd take the bike on the train half way home and ride the rest. Now I have a nine mile commute and can ride both ways evey day if I'm not being lazy. If I ride my Crosscheck, I take it inside during the day. However, I do have a beater as well. It's an old ridgid mountain bike with 1.5" wide street slicks and just 9 speeds - one ring in the front, nine cogs in the back. Then again, when you're used to just one speed, nine is alot! It's very convenient to just throw a cable on the beater outside and stroll into work.
If you're going to be riding mostly flat terrain consider a single speed for your daily ride. It will really cut down on maintenance. You won't find many light weight, single speed commuters in bike shops though. But all the help you need for putting one together is over on the fixed gear/ single speed section of this forum.
Hope this helps. DanO
And a few things are crucial. Like, is this really going to replace your car during the week? That would be excellent, and you might want to spend a little more if that is indeed the case. Also; tell us more about your shortest route. Is it flat or hilly? Is the pavement nice all the way? Or do you have to deal with bad roads or dirt paths? What's the weather like where you are?
Also consider whether or not you can store your bike inside the workplace during the day, or if you will be locking it up outside. If you have to lock it up outside you might consider a second hand beater, as it will be less attractive to thieves. I'm not talking about a worn out bike that might leave you stranded. But a used one, with some obvious wear and tear on the frame, that is mechanically refurbished so that it will be reliable daily transportation. Depending on your budget, that might be the best choice anyway.
I used to ride 30 miles to work on my single speed Surly Crosscheck cyclocross bike. The route included a few really decent hills and took me two hours in the morning. However, I only road it one way, two or three times a week. If I was feeling froggy, I'd take the bike on the train half way home and ride the rest. Now I have a nine mile commute and can ride both ways evey day if I'm not being lazy. If I ride my Crosscheck, I take it inside during the day. However, I do have a beater as well. It's an old ridgid mountain bike with 1.5" wide street slicks and just 9 speeds - one ring in the front, nine cogs in the back. Then again, when you're used to just one speed, nine is alot! It's very convenient to just throw a cable on the beater outside and stroll into work.
If you're going to be riding mostly flat terrain consider a single speed for your daily ride. It will really cut down on maintenance. You won't find many light weight, single speed commuters in bike shops though. But all the help you need for putting one together is over on the fixed gear/ single speed section of this forum.
Hope this helps. DanO
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Originally Posted by osirisdon
I do hold my own.
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#9
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Originally Posted by Bottomfeeder
But if you tell us how much you're willing to spend on a bike we'd be happy to make a few suggestions.
Originally Posted by Bottomfeeder
is this really going to replace your car during the week?
Originally Posted by Bottomfeeder
Also; tell us more about your shortest route.
Originally Posted by Bottomfeeder
Is it flat or hilly?
Originally Posted by Bottomfeeder
Is the pavement nice all the way? Or do you have to deal with bad roads or dirt paths?
Originally Posted by Bottomfeeder
What's the weather like where you are?
Originally Posted by Bottomfeeder
Also consider whether or not you can store your bike inside the workplace during the day, or if you will be locking it up outside. If you have to lock it up outside you might consider a second hand beater, as it will be less attractive to thieves. I'm not talking about a worn out bike that might leave you stranded. But a used one, with some obvious wear and tear on the frame, that is mechanically refurbished so that it will be reliable daily transportation. Depending on your budget, that might be the best choice anyway.
Originally Posted by Bottomfeeder
I used to ride 30 miles to work on my single speed Surly Crosscheck cyclocross bike. The route included a few really decent hills and took me two hours in the morning. However, I only road it one way, two or three times a week. If I was feeling froggy, I'd take the bike on the train half way home and ride the rest. Now I have a nine mile commute and can ride both ways evey day if I'm not being lazy. If I ride my Crosscheck, I take it inside during the day. However, I do have a beater as well. It's an old ridgid mountain bike with 1.5" wide street slicks and just 9 speeds - one ring in the front, nine cogs in the back. Then again, when you're used to just one speed, nine is alot! It's very convenient to just throw a cable on the beater outside and stroll into work.
If you're going to be riding mostly flat terrain consider a single speed for your daily ride. It will really cut down on maintenance. You won't find many light weight, single speed commuters in bike shops though. But all the help you need for putting one together is over on the fixed gear/ single speed section of this forum.
Hope this helps. DanO
If you're going to be riding mostly flat terrain consider a single speed for your daily ride. It will really cut down on maintenance. You won't find many light weight, single speed commuters in bike shops though. But all the help you need for putting one together is over on the fixed gear/ single speed section of this forum.
Hope this helps. DanO
#10
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I am not even sure if I should purchase a new bike or just upgrade what I have now. She is not a lightweight, but she sure is hard. Today was my first commute. 18miles in one hour and eight minutes.
Things I learned:
I need to leave my helmet in my backpack.
Rain is alright, but fenders would be better!
Backpacks are too hot.
I need to stock on survival items.
My plastic pedals are pretty slippery when wet.
Feals good to remember how much things I can see, hear, smell and see while cycling.
What I would like is:
Lightweight
Good enough to handle all the bumps of the road/sidewalks.
Light weight
in the $500.00 range
light weight
Nice looking - although not that important
light weight
Oh and did I mention, I want a lighter bike?
Things I learned:
I need to leave my helmet in my backpack.
Rain is alright, but fenders would be better!
Backpacks are too hot.
I need to stock on survival items.
My plastic pedals are pretty slippery when wet.
Feals good to remember how much things I can see, hear, smell and see while cycling.
What I would like is:
Lightweight
Good enough to handle all the bumps of the road/sidewalks.
Light weight
in the $500.00 range
light weight
Nice looking - although not that important
light weight
Oh and did I mention, I want a lighter bike?
#11
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Light weight will soon no longer be high on your list i bet.
You can pay thousands of dollars to lose a few pounds of bike weight. Then add fenders, racks, panniers, clothes, flat kits, etc and your back up and over what you were at. When your combined weight is 225 lbs, paying a grand to lose 5 lbs seems a tad crazy.
Your also in Florida, no hills, once your heavy pig of a bike is at rolling speed, a lighter bike isnt doing anything. Lighter helps mainly with acceleration and climbing.
What I'd suggest looking at changing is the rolling resistance/efficiency and not so much the weight. Have a suspnsion fork ? change it. Look at changing your wheels to somewhere between 25-35 mm if they are larger.
If your budget is 500, you wont get much for that new. Look around for used, or just upgrade those parts that will actually give you a good efficiency increase. Or increase your comfort.
In 6 weeks your gonna be semi in shape and at least accustomed to the 18 mile commute. Weight of your bike will no longer have quite so high an importance. Im mid 40's, I do 18 miles each way, and i have mountains to climb over to do it, both ways !
Oh and get off the damn sidewalks !
You can pay thousands of dollars to lose a few pounds of bike weight. Then add fenders, racks, panniers, clothes, flat kits, etc and your back up and over what you were at. When your combined weight is 225 lbs, paying a grand to lose 5 lbs seems a tad crazy.
Your also in Florida, no hills, once your heavy pig of a bike is at rolling speed, a lighter bike isnt doing anything. Lighter helps mainly with acceleration and climbing.
What I'd suggest looking at changing is the rolling resistance/efficiency and not so much the weight. Have a suspnsion fork ? change it. Look at changing your wheels to somewhere between 25-35 mm if they are larger.
If your budget is 500, you wont get much for that new. Look around for used, or just upgrade those parts that will actually give you a good efficiency increase. Or increase your comfort.
In 6 weeks your gonna be semi in shape and at least accustomed to the 18 mile commute. Weight of your bike will no longer have quite so high an importance. Im mid 40's, I do 18 miles each way, and i have mountains to climb over to do it, both ways !
Oh and get off the damn sidewalks !
#12
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Jarery, so you would recommend spending the money in just upgrading my current bike? I would guess 500 bones is a good chunk for upgrades. Or am I totally off?
My bike does have a suspension fork. You say I should change it, but to what?
As you can see I can use as much help as posible. I apreciate all the feedback.
My bike does have a suspension fork. You say I should change it, but to what?
As you can see I can use as much help as posible. I apreciate all the feedback.
#13
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I have Schwinn Sierra hybrid that I use for commuting. I got it at a LBS for $350 (it was marked down from $550), but with accessories (rack, mirror, lighting, air pump, etc.) it cost around $500.
So I think you can get a decent new commuting bike for $500.
So I think you can get a decent new commuting bike for $500.
#14
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18 miles is nothing, hardly a warmup. $500 will buy you a great commuter, just follow the good advice you have received here. Keep the carbs up and before you know it you'll be doing 50 miles on the way home just for the fun of it.
#15
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Glad to see some XCC members jumped in. I'm right at about 18miles each way. Beaters make the best commuters. The heavier the better
#16
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Kona Smoke https://www.konaworld.com/shopping_ca...4&parentid=253
Around $400, already has fenders, so you can put your savings into rack, panniers, lights and gear.
Around $400, already has fenders, so you can put your savings into rack, panniers, lights and gear.
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"Let us hope our weapons are never needed --but do not forget what the common people knew when they demanded the Bill of Rights: An armed citizenry is the first defense, the best defense, and the final defense against tyranny. If guns are outlawed, only the government will have guns. Only the police, the secret police, the military, the hired servants of our rulers. Only the government -- and a few outlaws. I intend to be among the outlaws" - Edward Abbey
#17
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Osirisdon - Well, the first thing I need to advise you to do is please keep trying the helmet until you get used to it. None of us like to think about falling, but it is a very real posibility. And you might not think that a styrofoam bicycle helmet will help much, but it does. I'll spare you the details; but a few weeks back I took a tumble. Never saw it coming. I was whipped around 180 degrees and launched off my bicycle backwards. I landed on my tookus and rolled back and hit my head. There was no way of preventing it. It really rang my bell and I didn't get up for a few seconds. Had a hell of a headache for a day and a half. The back of the helmet was visibly crushed. If I hadn't been wearing it I would have been taking an ambulance ride for sure.
With that said; it sounds like you're in pretty good shape. Not many folks would be reporting a 16-17 mph average on their first ride. It will only get easier.
If you're stretching your budget to $600... perhaps you should check out this Bianchi
https://www.bianchiusa.com/06_castro_valley.html
and ride what you have until you either save another $200, or demonstrate whatever level of commitment your wife would need to see in order to somehow find the means to set you up with a righteous ride. I bet that if you really start riding full time she'd be jazzed to see you on something you really liked. I think that Castro Valley is sweet, all weather ride. And you'd probably haul ass on it. If I were in the market I'd consider it. It comes with 28mm wide tires. But it also runs cantilever brakes, so I'd bet you can fit at least 32's to help with those bumps. I can't for the life of me figure out why it doesn't come with a rack, but that's all it needs.
Just a thought. We'll keep lookin'. DanO
With that said; it sounds like you're in pretty good shape. Not many folks would be reporting a 16-17 mph average on their first ride. It will only get easier.
If you're stretching your budget to $600... perhaps you should check out this Bianchi
https://www.bianchiusa.com/06_castro_valley.html
and ride what you have until you either save another $200, or demonstrate whatever level of commitment your wife would need to see in order to somehow find the means to set you up with a righteous ride. I bet that if you really start riding full time she'd be jazzed to see you on something you really liked. I think that Castro Valley is sweet, all weather ride. And you'd probably haul ass on it. If I were in the market I'd consider it. It comes with 28mm wide tires. But it also runs cantilever brakes, so I'd bet you can fit at least 32's to help with those bumps. I can't for the life of me figure out why it doesn't come with a rack, but that's all it needs.
Just a thought. We'll keep lookin'. DanO
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Originally Posted by osirisdon
Jarery, so you would recommend spending the money in just upgrading my current bike? I would guess 500 bones is a good chunk for upgrades. Or am I totally off?
.
.
If its in dire shape, and is going to take 300 in repairs, but you can find a new commuter for 400, go for the new one
Edit : looking at chipcons suggestion of a Kona Smoke is good one. Already has fenders. Just needs some lighting and your done
#19
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My .02. Don't upgrade the old bike if you are talking about this kind of commute for a long time. You need a good bike you can count on. That Kona is nice, but the Bianchi is a better choice, I think. The reason is that the drop bars will give you a much better variety of body and hand positions. When you are bucking a strong headwind, you will really be glad for the drops. As for the money, think of it this way: it costs about 6 cents a mile to drive your car. You will save about $11 a week riding your bike. Therefore, you will have a "free" bike before the end of the year, and she will start making you money after that! So, get a girl that you will be proud of.
A second piece of advice, come join the XCC (extreme commute club). Lots of great advice and support for your commuting. Everyone will love to hear all about your adventures.
A second piece of advice, come join the XCC (extreme commute club). Lots of great advice and support for your commuting. Everyone will love to hear all about your adventures.
#20
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Originally Posted by Mars
That Kona is nice, but the Bianchi is a better choice, I think. The reason is that the drop bars will give you a much better variety of body and hand positions. When you are bucking a strong headwind, you will really be glad for the drops.
But considering the OP is in Florida, no snow, no hills, the Castro Valley is probably the better choice after all.
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"Let us hope our weapons are never needed --but do not forget what the common people knew when they demanded the Bill of Rights: An armed citizenry is the first defense, the best defense, and the final defense against tyranny. If guns are outlawed, only the government will have guns. Only the police, the secret police, the military, the hired servants of our rulers. Only the government -- and a few outlaws. I intend to be among the outlaws" - Edward Abbey
"Let us hope our weapons are never needed --but do not forget what the common people knew when they demanded the Bill of Rights: An armed citizenry is the first defense, the best defense, and the final defense against tyranny. If guns are outlawed, only the government will have guns. Only the police, the secret police, the military, the hired servants of our rulers. Only the government -- and a few outlaws. I intend to be among the outlaws" - Edward Abbey
#21
hooptie driver
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Thanks guys for all the help. Your advice is invaluable to me. All of it, is just comming in and I am absorbing it all.
What is this XCC you guys are mentioning?
I am confused regarding traffic. I have always riden "with" traffic. In other words I ride in the same direction of traffic. Is this right way of doing things? Also, should I stop at all red lights and stop signs? Usually if the coast is clear I go for it. NOT SAFE, but is it illegal? What kind of traffic trouble, other than getting hit by car can I run into?
What is this XCC you guys are mentioning?
I am confused regarding traffic. I have always riden "with" traffic. In other words I ride in the same direction of traffic. Is this right way of doing things? Also, should I stop at all red lights and stop signs? Usually if the coast is clear I go for it. NOT SAFE, but is it illegal? What kind of traffic trouble, other than getting hit by car can I run into?
Last edited by osirisdon; 01-22-06 at 07:26 PM.
#22
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Why the XCC is simply the best club in the land!!! Need I say more?
It is just a thread where a bunch of us who ride either long distances or other extreme conditions (heavy traffic, weather, terrain etc) share stories, tips and try to keep each other motivated and sane. At 18 miles one way your ride certainly counts although you'll find we're not real hard core on the admission requirements.
It is just a thread where a bunch of us who ride either long distances or other extreme conditions (heavy traffic, weather, terrain etc) share stories, tips and try to keep each other motivated and sane. At 18 miles one way your ride certainly counts although you'll find we're not real hard core on the admission requirements.
#23
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I commuted 18 miles one way on a Trek XO1 cyclocross bike.
When I couldn't because of client meetings, weather, I would park 1/2 way and ride.
I had access to a shower, and the bike stayed under a nice porch.
I eventually got a Trek 520 with fenders, racks, panniers, etc.
18 miles is totally doable. I had some good hills... including 2 miles out of the valley to get to my house.
When I couldn't because of client meetings, weather, I would park 1/2 way and ride.
I had access to a shower, and the bike stayed under a nice porch.
I eventually got a Trek 520 with fenders, racks, panniers, etc.
18 miles is totally doable. I had some good hills... including 2 miles out of the valley to get to my house.
#24
----
Looks like lots of good advice in here on the bike and all of it useful. I don't recall seeing you say exactly what your current beater bike is so kind of hard to tell whether it's worth sinking a lot of money into but hey, if it's getting you there and back ride it into the ground.
The bike Chipcom suggested is a great baseline in terms of what you should be looking for if you're going to buy one and at what price.
The other suggestions I would add have to do with sustaining your energy and your body for these commutes. If you're riding in Florida (really anywhere) but you get little relief from the sun down there so make sure you're staying hydrated on your ride in and home. You might want to store some kind of energy replacement drink or fruit juices at your workplace. Bananas, Power and Clif bars etc are good to have not only on the ride but in your desk or briefcase at work. I've had long commutes and nothing is worse than simply bonking in the middle of the day when you've got a ton of work to do. If your job is very physical you'll need to watch your nutrition and hydration even more carefully.
I'd get rid of the backpack and go with a rack. Keep in mind that you are repeating the same physical demands daily so reducing stresses to areas of the body like the back, the knees, wrists, neck, shoulders are important so you don't end up doing damage to your body instead of strengthening it.
Cycling gloves will reduce fatigue and damage to your tendons and nerves in the wrist and arms and they are great to have if you fall or crash. Bars that allow you to vary your positions will also reduce fatigue. Make sure whichever bike you ride is adjusted properly and get rid of those plastic pedals and wear good shoes so that your foot is securely placed on the pedal. At those distances you may ultimately be a candidate for a clipless pedal or a pedal like the Campus pedal from Performance Bike that is clipless one side and bear trap the other.
It's a very doable commute and should be an enjoyable one- have a blast.
The bike Chipcom suggested is a great baseline in terms of what you should be looking for if you're going to buy one and at what price.
The other suggestions I would add have to do with sustaining your energy and your body for these commutes. If you're riding in Florida (really anywhere) but you get little relief from the sun down there so make sure you're staying hydrated on your ride in and home. You might want to store some kind of energy replacement drink or fruit juices at your workplace. Bananas, Power and Clif bars etc are good to have not only on the ride but in your desk or briefcase at work. I've had long commutes and nothing is worse than simply bonking in the middle of the day when you've got a ton of work to do. If your job is very physical you'll need to watch your nutrition and hydration even more carefully.
I'd get rid of the backpack and go with a rack. Keep in mind that you are repeating the same physical demands daily so reducing stresses to areas of the body like the back, the knees, wrists, neck, shoulders are important so you don't end up doing damage to your body instead of strengthening it.
Cycling gloves will reduce fatigue and damage to your tendons and nerves in the wrist and arms and they are great to have if you fall or crash. Bars that allow you to vary your positions will also reduce fatigue. Make sure whichever bike you ride is adjusted properly and get rid of those plastic pedals and wear good shoes so that your foot is securely placed on the pedal. At those distances you may ultimately be a candidate for a clipless pedal or a pedal like the Campus pedal from Performance Bike that is clipless one side and bear trap the other.
It's a very doable commute and should be an enjoyable one- have a blast.
#25
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Originally Posted by bmike
I commuted 18 miles one way on a Trek XO1 cyclocross bike.
When I couldn't because of client meetings, weather, I would park 1/2 way and ride.
I had access to a shower, and the bike stayed under a nice porch.
I eventually got a Trek 520 with fenders, racks, panniers, etc.
18 miles is totally doable. I had some good hills... including 2 miles out of the valley to get to my house.
When I couldn't because of client meetings, weather, I would park 1/2 way and ride.
I had access to a shower, and the bike stayed under a nice porch.
I eventually got a Trek 520 with fenders, racks, panniers, etc.
18 miles is totally doable. I had some good hills... including 2 miles out of the valley to get to my house.