ranger5oh

Looty... yes, I was refering to the cadence portion of your comment. I think you were trying to say that a reduction in drag accounted for your speed increase at the same cadence... THIS can not happen. I am guessing though, you reduced the drag, and it was easier to spin, so you spun a little faster... thereby increasing your speed.

As one poster said, you are basically reducing the power required to go a certain speed when you reduce the drag.

john bono

A mistake, but not as much of one as you think. 70" tall, 296 lbs, 5mph winds, 60-72 rpm cadence, on level ground requires 300W to sustain 16 mph on the handlbar tops(actually on the hoods, but since I sit a bit higher on a sequoia, call it a wash), which is about what I'm capable of cruising at for long periods of time(>1/2 hr) on level ground. Add a 5% grade and to maintain 8 mph bumps me to 350W(which I've done for about a half mile). For real short bursts, I'm probably bumping 400W on steeper hills, but at that point, my cadence is probably below 60 rpm, and maybe even under 40, and I can't maintain that for very long. I know on level ground, I really don't have all that much trouble keeping up, or even passing people, but on any hill, I get nailed horrifically. That's why when I ride, I try to stick to main highways and avoid back roads. Traffic doesn't bother me all that much, but little, choppy hills kill me, because I can't maintain a head of steam. Even long, grinding hills are preferable to that. I die on the upslope, and make it up on the downslope and the flats.

john bono

Oh, and I forgot one thing:

timmhaan

i require about 230 watts to cruise at 20mph on the tops. hands in the drops brings it down to only 170 watts. my low body weight is really an asset - if only i could increase my strength i'd be golden.