Simple question - best chain lube?
#26
I drink your MILKSHAKE

Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 15,061
Likes: 3
From: St. Petersburg, FL
Bikes: 2003 Specialized Rockhopper FSR Comp, 1999 Specialized Hardrock Comp FS, 1971 Schwinn Varsity
#27
ride for a change
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,221
Likes: 2
From: Minneapolis, MN
Bikes: Surly Cross-check & Moonlander, Pivot Mach 429, Ted Wojcik Sof-Trac, Ridley Orion. Santa Cruz Stigmata
+1 my thoughts exactly.
Earlier someone said "there is no one right answser" and I agree, it does depend on conditions etc... But over the years I've used almost every type mentioned and to me Boeshield is the overall winner.
If I could only choose one lube it would be Boeshield.
Earlier someone said "there is no one right answser" and I agree, it does depend on conditions etc... But over the years I've used almost every type mentioned and to me Boeshield is the overall winner.
If I could only choose one lube it would be Boeshield.
#28
Custom User Title
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Boeshield T-9.... one more vote. At Interbike every year the T-9 booth has a steel plate which has been sprayed with various lubes (WD-40, Phil's, White Lightning, etc) and weathered. Of course the part of the plate that was sprayed with T-9 has dramatically less corrosion than the other spots. Not sure about the transferrability of this test to bike chains, but it's easy to apply and can be used on everything on the bike (except where you want grease).
#30
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 40,863
Likes: 3,115
From: Sacramento, California, USA
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
ProLink for the summer, Finish Line XC Wet for the winter. Lube, wipe, ride, repeat.
#31
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Finish Line Cross Country Dry unless I'm riding mountain bike in wet conditions through streams and such, which is whehn i use the Finish Line Wet. The key is to drop the lube conservatively on each side of each link throughout the length of the chain, give it a spin, let it sit for 5 minutes then wipe the sides with a clean rag. This will keep the lube where it needs to be and doesn't leave any reisdual lube to attract dirt that will kill your drivetrain.
#32
Fish'r wish'r
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
From: Near Seattle
Bikes: Homebuilt (vintage mtb frame)
Dumonde Tech. Clean drivetrain well before first application, apply lightly, and reapply whenever the drivetrain starts to make noise (squeaks, clicking, whatever - you'll hear something when more lube is needed). Drivetrain stays pretty clean (not pristine, but not bad) - no gunky buildup.
#33
I drink your MILKSHAKE

Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 15,061
Likes: 3
From: St. Petersburg, FL
Bikes: 2003 Specialized Rockhopper FSR Comp, 1999 Specialized Hardrock Comp FS, 1971 Schwinn Varsity
+1 my thoughts exactly.
Earlier someone said "there is no one right answser" and I agree, it does depend on conditions etc... But over the years I've used almost every type mentioned and to me Boeshield is the overall winner.
If I could only choose one lube it would be Boeshield.
Earlier someone said "there is no one right answser" and I agree, it does depend on conditions etc... But over the years I've used almost every type mentioned and to me Boeshield is the overall winner.
If I could only choose one lube it would be Boeshield.
Boeshield T-9.... one more vote. At Interbike every year the T-9 booth has a steel plate which has been sprayed with various lubes (WD-40, Phil's, White Lightning, etc) and weathered. Of course the part of the plate that was sprayed with T-9 has dramatically less corrosion than the other spots. Not sure about the transferrability of this test to bike chains, but it's easy to apply and can be used on everything on the bike (except where you want grease).
#34
Body By Nintendo
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,187
Likes: 0
From: Videogames ruined my life. Good thing i have 2 extra lives.
Bikes: Giant TCR2, Giant TCX, IRO BFSSFG SE, Salsa Casseroll, IRO Rob Roy.
I'm planning on doing this while i finally start building up the track frame i've got sitting here next to me.
I used White Lightning for a bit at first then finally switched to Boeshield when i found a place that had it (after hearing about it here). I haven't looked at anything else since then.
I used White Lightning for a bit at first then finally switched to Boeshield when i found a place that had it (after hearing about it here). I haven't looked at anything else since then.
#35
I drink your MILKSHAKE

Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 15,061
Likes: 3
From: St. Petersburg, FL
Bikes: 2003 Specialized Rockhopper FSR Comp, 1999 Specialized Hardrock Comp FS, 1971 Schwinn Varsity
#36
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
I used FinishLine Wax during the winter and it seemed really durable. I'm currently using (and loving) the Boeshield T9 for my road bike. It's another suspended wax style of lube. It sticks the the drivetrain pretty well, but in higher temperatures, stays a pasty liquid consistency on your chain.
#38
Banned
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 616
Likes: 1
Rock n' Roll - the original pink stuff. Great lube because it is nice and thin so it flows where you need it to, but also sets up nicely overnight and lasts well. It is also a cleaner (the cleaner solvent is what makes it thin and penetrating), but I've found not to use it as directed which calls for it to be applied in a stream over the casette -- this results in the solvents penetrating the hub and breaking down the grease in the hub.
#41
#43
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 7,391
Likes: 13
From: Memphis TN area
Bikes: 2011 Felt Z85 (road/commuter), 2006 Marin Pine Mountain (utility/commuter E-bike), 1995 KHS Alite 1000 (gravel grinder)
Any lube that is decently thin enough to get inside the rollers, and has a thin application straw, is good enough for me. I have a couple of bottle of Tri-Flow so I use that. I wipe the chain, then apply ONE DROP to EACH ROLLER. One drop'll do ya!
I apply the drops to the rollers along the bottom section of chain between the RD jockey wheels and the chain rings, then rotate the cranks back to move to the next length of chain, which means you have to pay attention where you left off when you move the chain backwards. Let sit a few minutes then wipe. Works great!
I apply the drops to the rollers along the bottom section of chain between the RD jockey wheels and the chain rings, then rotate the cranks back to move to the next length of chain, which means you have to pay attention where you left off when you move the chain backwards. Let sit a few minutes then wipe. Works great!
#44
#46
aka Tom Reingold




Joined: Jan 2009
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From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
*Do you folks in other areas use that word? It rhymes with push.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#47
Another vote here for "Boeshield T-9". It penetrates the way a good chain lube should, getting between all moving parts, and then forms a protective film that lasts for a very long time. I'm happy with it!
#49
Keepin it Wheel




Joined: Aug 2011
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Likes: 5,224
From: San Diego
Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus







