I currently use a Specialized Body Geometry drop bar. Most of the time it's pretty nice, but sometimes when I'm using the drops I get a bit irritated trying to find a good place for my hands on the "ergo" bends. There are times when the provided spot is nice...and times when it just feels too steep.

I've been looking that the Nitto Noodle. Does anyone here use one, and what do you think? The drops themselves look far more versatile, but the one thing the "ergo" flat spot on my current bar does is give me nice drop access to my brifters.

Anyhow, I'm interested in hearing opinions on the Nitto Noodle.

Cheers!

I like mine a lot. Right now I have them on four bikes. The size range is excellent, especially it you prefer wider bars. The largest is 48cm.

I have two of them, and can't imagine riding another drop bar. The best part of the bar is the flat ramp. Most drop bars have a sloped ramp, which leads to putting a lot of weight on your hands, and that sucks. With the Noodle that's not so. Plus they come in wide sizes. Love it. Best bar I've ever used.

I have the Noodle on my commuter and I really like it. The ergo flat bar is very comfortable and is very easy on the wrists. You can really feel the difference when you switch bikes without a noodle. Here's a pic of mine.

Thirty years ago, well designed bars similar to the "Noodle" were common. Lots of widths. Choices of drops (short, medium, deep). Today, all road bike components are clones (cheap and cr@ppy, maybe, but clones) of whatever is being used in the Tour de France. So, most roadies have bars that are not well suited to normal, everyday riding.

So, let's salute the "Noodle Bar"...Grant Peterson's gift to the 99% of roadies who don't have a racing license.

I have Nitto Noodles on two of my Moultons and I love them. Rivendell recommend going as wide as you dare, but I find that the narrowest (41cm I think) is a good width for a compact town bike, and I use 44cm on my country bike.

Alos know as the Nitto 177. I have 3 of them. Best bar I've ever used.

Grant at Rivendell described it well with the flat "ramp", the area behind the brakes, not having a valley.

Very comfortable.

One thought though, the curve of the bar sets the grip area back about a cm or so, which changes your reach to the bar. You can sometimes compensate by pushing the seat back (unless it's a Brooks at the end of the rails), if so desired.

SB

I too have a set of noodle bars (46cm) on my commuter and I love them!. They replaced a set of moustache bars. There is no going back.

I'm running 48cm noodles on the bike that I put most of my miles on. In my opinion they're easily the most comfortable drop bars ever designed (well... at least that I've tried). They have a nice, wide top section that provides plenty of room for your hands. The "flat ramp" behind the brake hoods makes for a really comfortable and natural hand position. And the way the drops flare out makes the drops very accessable. I don't "get" the ergo bends that all of the modern drop bars have. I think it was a step in the wrong direction. Anyway, don't hesitate to pick-up the noodles. Most everyone that I know of that has tried them has been really happy with them.

I switched to this bar from an ergo-style bar and while I like the change, note that the drop part of the bar on the Noodle is a traditional curve and not the 'ergo' shape of the modern bar so if you really like that feature on your ergo bars you will lose it with the Nitto.

I have the older version of the Noodle - the B115. It has the same 5" drop and slight outward flair, flat ramps, but no backsweep at the tops. I really like the flat ramps, too. Also, the drops are nearly parallel with the ramps. These bars are designed for the rest of us. Set them up so the tops are equal to, or even a smidge higher than the saddle. Set the ramps level with the ground. This is a good starting point.

I had avoided drop bars altogether because of the ergo grip, mostly. Just couldn't get comfortable with that, no matter the setting. They seemed to force my chin to the bars when holding the bends. With the Noodle/115, the rounded old school bends aren't even used. You don't need them unless you like to race. Ergo bends force the rider to lower the forearms almost parallel with the ground, causing an extreme arch to the back. Very bad for me, but good for those young studs withouit arthritis. Noodles are in the pipeline for me.

I have a set on my RB-1. They are really comfortable for me on the tops, hoods, and just cruising on the drops. Beyond that, they look dope with the swept section on top and the flared drops (I still hit my wrists on the top, though). I have them shellacked and twine-finished to match my honey Brooks. Mine are 44s which seem ideal for me.

I have the same problem you do with the ergo bars I have tried...the angled part of the drops is too steep. The problem with the Noodle bars is that the radius in the hooks is pretty tight. They are NOT comfortable charging technical, tight and steep descents - my hands are crunched up too much when I'm in the hooks to have access to the brakes. Since I have them on my commuter bike and don't need to do that very often, they work perfect.

Please tell me that your interrupter levers aren't sticking straight out level to the ground and that it's just a optical illusion.

Thanks for the words...and that's also nice to know the extra consideration with the radius of the curve there for if I'm settling in for some really aggressive speed or descents. However, I don't do that as often as I just cruise along for distance...so my bars, as stated, need to be set up for that.

I think I'm seriously going to look into getting one of these. It's so funny...I started with a bike that had all modern "bling"; like "anatomic" bars and plastic-ey high tech "anatomic" saddles. After a while of being a member of this forum, I was a Brooks rider, and now I'm going to go to an "old school" handlebar like the Noodle.

However, you can't talk me out of my brifters.

I orginally got the 42cm (or maybe it was 41?) width and never could get comfortable on it. Later I got the 46cm and it's perfect. But I almost never use the drops so I can't comment on that portion of the bar.

Until you break one

I have them. I like.

Haha....this could be MY post!

I have 4 road bikes and have the 48mm Nitto Noodles on each of them....they are all actually set up exactly alike.....Nitto Noodles, Nitto Technomic stems, Performance Forte Campus pedals, Shimano 105 gruppo's, etc....

The 48 Noodles are great for someone with broad shoulders, but absolutely not necessary for smaller dude and dudettes....

I have the 46 but could probably go up to a 48. Very comfortable bars.

Anyone want to trade? I have a new Noodle in 48 - well, new as in never been ridden, taped, or had brakes mounted, but I did briefly mount the bare bar on my bike and realized it was a going to be a little too wide. I meant to exchange it for a 46, but didn't get them returned in time so now I'm stuck. I still even have them stored in the plastic sleeve they came in. Anybody with a 46 in similar condition interested in swapping for these 48's I have? PM me.

I would but mine is already wrapped. Throw it out in the for trade thread. Someone would probably trade or buy it from you.

Get the On-One Midge. Loads better. Seriously.

What makes the Midge better than the Noodle? I've heard very good things about the Noodle, but seldom anything on the Midge.

I think you meant parallel to the ground, but why is that a problem (I'm not a drop bar fan, but I'm curious)

You're right, that is what I meant to say. It's an issue for the same reasons you don't have the brake levers parallel on a flat bar bike. It's uncomfortable and makes it harder to use the brakes. Unless he's riding the tops in a weird kind of tuck where his arms are parallel to the ground that's not going to be comfortable nor effective. A better position would be to have them more inline with his forearms when he's in the most common riding position where he'd use the interrupter levers. As a starting point I usually start with them in about a 45° angle as shown in the picture by the red line.

I then dial it in generally between the angles dictated by the blue lines.