Commuting uphill.
#27
Barbieri Telefonico
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,522
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Bikes: Crappy but operational secondhand Motobecane Messenger
#29
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: London but shortly Sydney
Bikes: Bianchi Road Bike & Gary Fisher Mountain Bike
Riding up hills is hard. Riding into the wind is hard. Riding up hills into the wind is ........
I found this online calculator that lets you work out how much power you need to output to ride in various conditions (hills & wind). Basically I worked out that cycling 15mph into a 10mph headwind needs the same effort as cycling 15mph up a 3.5% slope - ouch. The details of this are in one of my blog posts - Blowing in the Wind
The calculator website lets you work out the aerodynamic drag and propulsive power of a cyclist. It also has some other interesting content on aerodynamics.
I found this online calculator that lets you work out how much power you need to output to ride in various conditions (hills & wind). Basically I worked out that cycling 15mph into a 10mph headwind needs the same effort as cycling 15mph up a 3.5% slope - ouch. The details of this are in one of my blog posts - Blowing in the Wind
The calculator website lets you work out the aerodynamic drag and propulsive power of a cyclist. It also has some other interesting content on aerodynamics.
#30
Barbieri Telefonico
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,522
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Bikes: Crappy but operational secondhand Motobecane Messenger
Riding up hills is hard. Riding into the wind is hard. Riding up hills into the wind is ........
I found this online calculator that lets you work out how much power you need to output to ride in various conditions (hills & wind). Basically I worked out that cycling 15mph into a 10mph headwind needs the same effort as cycling 15mph up a 3.5% slope - ouch. The details of this are in one of my blog posts - Blowing in the Wind
The calculator website lets you work out the aerodynamic drag and propulsive power of a cyclist. It also has some other interesting content on aerodynamics.
I found this online calculator that lets you work out how much power you need to output to ride in various conditions (hills & wind). Basically I worked out that cycling 15mph into a 10mph headwind needs the same effort as cycling 15mph up a 3.5% slope - ouch. The details of this are in one of my blog posts - Blowing in the Wind
The calculator website lets you work out the aerodynamic drag and propulsive power of a cyclist. It also has some other interesting content on aerodynamics.
coolio
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#31
cyclepath
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,550
Likes: 1
From: "The Last Best Place"
Bikes: 2005 Trek Pilot 5.0, 2001 Specialized Sirrus Pro, Kona Lava Dome, Raleigh hardtail converted to commuter, 87 Takara steel road bike, 2008 Trek Soho
#32
kipuka explorer

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,297
Likes: 2
From: Hilo Town, East Hawai'i
Bikes: 1994 Trek 820, 2004 Fuji Absolute, 2005 Jamis Nova, 1977 Schwinn Scrambler 36/36
Wind...wow, I'd forgotten about that stuff. Yes, very nasty. Makes mountain climbing seem pleasant, in comparison.
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-=- '05 Jamis Nova -=- '04 Fuji Absolute -=- '94 Trek 820 -=- '77 Schwinn Scrambler 36/36 -=-
Friends don't let friends use brifters.
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-=- '05 Jamis Nova -=- '04 Fuji Absolute -=- '94 Trek 820 -=- '77 Schwinn Scrambler 36/36 -=-
Friends don't let friends use brifters.
#33
Retro-nerd
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,638
Likes: 57
From: Morningside - Atlanta
Bikes: 1991 Serotta Colorado II, 1986 Vitus 979, 1971 Juene Classic, 2008 Surly Crosscheck, 1956 Riva Sport
Two things have helped me.
1) standing up while pedaling - this allows me to use the weight of my body on the downstroke. You can essentially ride in a bigger gear while climbing than when sitting.
2) Mustache Bars - The mustache bars give you great positioning while standing.
1) standing up while pedaling - this allows me to use the weight of my body on the downstroke. You can essentially ride in a bigger gear while climbing than when sitting.
2) Mustache Bars - The mustache bars give you great positioning while standing.
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Would you like a dream with that?
Would you like a dream with that?
Last edited by georgiaboy; 05-13-08 at 06:05 PM.
#34
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,383
Likes: 22
From: Calgary
Bikes: 2018 Ghost Square Trekking B2.8 e-bike; 2015 MEC Cote gravel/touring bike; 1985 Boyes-Rosser tourer, now outfitted as Winter Trundle-bike
#35
Different question, but related. How much easier does a rigid fork make your climb versus a suspension fork? My old MTB is my commuter now, and tweaked a lot of things on it, but not the suspension (hard tail). My commute is mostly flat, with one huge hill. It takes me about 90 seconds to go down this hill, and probably 4-5 minutes going back up.
Seems I don't keep any momentum to start up the hill. But the suspension is nice for the rest of the ride because it's on a MUP, and there are plenty of sections where I go over concrete that's been pushed up by tree roots, so it can get bumpy. Weighing my options, and not sure if it's worth the trade off, since it's only one hill.
Seems I don't keep any momentum to start up the hill. But the suspension is nice for the rest of the ride because it's on a MUP, and there are plenty of sections where I go over concrete that's been pushed up by tree roots, so it can get bumpy. Weighing my options, and not sure if it's worth the trade off, since it's only one hill.
#36
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
From: Windsor, CO
I see a lot of info on technique, but not much on disposition. I think a lot of it is attitude. I have a steady, unrelenting grade for the first two miles of my commute. I take it as a challenge. I'm thinking every morning "I refuse to be beaten by this hill" and I essentially "assault" that hill. It sorta took on this "mission in life" kind of status for a short time. It was very tough at first, but as you build your strength and endurance it gets easier. It also makes the rest of the commute (for me about 10 more miles after that) seem like a snap. There are other ways I can go that are longer with much more gradual slopes....but that "taking on" of the worst case scenario is very gratifying, and it works well to get it out of the way so early in the ride (when your energy level is presumably highest).
Not saying the techniques aren't important.....some sound advice out there to be sure. But even with those ideas I still dreaded the climb until I took it as a personal afront.
Not saying the techniques aren't important.....some sound advice out there to be sure. But even with those ideas I still dreaded the climb until I took it as a personal afront.
#37
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 864
Likes: 0
From: Washington
Bikes: MTB Agressor for now.
I use to hate hills. I have to bike up a few hills both ways on my commute. The way home sucks, I have 30-40 lbs of luggage to carry, my bike weights 30 lbs and I'm 170. so thats 230 minimum that I have to carry. I do it five days a week and I use to hate it. I still hate it when I have my bags on, but when I don't have to carry my panniers and I'm on a regular ride hills are a sinch. I've broken both hips so if I can do it you can do it as well. I found that standing up helped too, using lower gears makes you a weaker rider, use some hard gears that you have to turn at 70 revolutions per minute or more, but under 90 and you will get a lot better at climbing hills.
#39
cyclepath
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,550
Likes: 1
From: "The Last Best Place"
Bikes: 2005 Trek Pilot 5.0, 2001 Specialized Sirrus Pro, Kona Lava Dome, Raleigh hardtail converted to commuter, 87 Takara steel road bike, 2008 Trek Soho
Different question, but related. How much easier does a rigid fork make your climb versus a suspension fork? My old MTB is my commuter now, and tweaked a lot of things on it, but not the suspension (hard tail). My commute is mostly flat, with one huge hill. It takes me about 90 seconds to go down this hill, and probably 4-5 minutes going back up.
Seems I don't keep any momentum to start up the hill. But the suspension is nice for the rest of the ride because it's on a MUP, and there are plenty of sections where I go over concrete that's been pushed up by tree roots, so it can get bumpy. Weighing my options, and not sure if it's worth the trade off, since it's only one hill.
Seems I don't keep any momentum to start up the hill. But the suspension is nice for the rest of the ride because it's on a MUP, and there are plenty of sections where I go over concrete that's been pushed up by tree roots, so it can get bumpy. Weighing my options, and not sure if it's worth the trade off, since it's only one hill.






