Commuting uphill.
#1
Thread Starter
welshcyclist
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 56
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From: Glynneath, a village in the Neath valley, in West Glamorgan, Wales, UK
Bikes: Raleigh Chiltern 3 speed, Pioneer Venture GT 27 speed tourer, Carrera Subway 8. Sadly I don't like the Pioneer, which though I've had it for over a year, has only been ridden three times, and is still in brand new condition, with the blue grease on
Commuting uphill.
I'm pretty much a committed commuter now, on my Carrera Subway 8, and I enjoy taking leisure rides, as often as I can. But after 2 years of such cycling, I still hate hills, big or small. I believe I know why, though I have gears, I fail constantly to use them correctly, fail to find a comfortable rhythym, and so get tired, too quickly and easily. I know this means my technique is rubbish, so how do I improve, any advice out there?
#2
Senior Member

Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 619
Likes: 1
You need to try to maintain your cadence. Shifting gears is how you do that. Try buying a cheap cyclecomputer with cadence and experimenting with it. When you hit a hill, unless it is a really short one, you should gear down until you can keep up the same cadence you would on flat ground. It looks like your bike has an 8-speed hub, so you should have an easy time shifting, because you don't have a front derailer to shift.
Or, you could experiment with standing when you climb. It works better for some people.
Personally, when I am on a short hill, or an overpass, I just power through it standing up, it is easier and faster than staying seated and gearing down. But for longer hills, I have to gear down otherwise I get tired really quickly.
Or, you could experiment with standing when you climb. It works better for some people.
Personally, when I am on a short hill, or an overpass, I just power through it standing up, it is easier and faster than staying seated and gearing down. But for longer hills, I have to gear down otherwise I get tired really quickly.
#3
Really Old Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,610
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From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3
And shift down a bit sooner to keep your cadence up.
Your engine runs most efficiently at a certain speed, regardless of the bike speed.
Your engine runs most efficiently at a certain speed, regardless of the bike speed.
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,936
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Other than cadence (which is certainly very important), a lot has to do with how you set up your bike.
Too extreme in any factor like saddle height and fore-and-aft tends to rob you of power, which becomes especially evident on hills. Some conventional wisdom you can read about on the internet may be wrong for some people, like the idea that the saddle should be farther back. The thighs can put down a lot of power like that, but they also tire very quickly.
Good positioning of the handlebars makes a big difference also, because you want to lean forward without being too stretched. It's hard to explain, but it's kind like making your body into a big spring (and this involves both the arms and the legs). A spring isn't good for anything if it's already stretched out). The hoods need to be where they are optimal for both seated and standing climbing so you can do both efficiently.
But no matter what you do, hills are always hard if they are long and steep enough, and as you get older, it gets worse. So it helps to have good gearing for it when you need it. That's why I spec'd my road bike with a racing triple. I don't actually use the small ring that often, but it's there if I feel the need to use it. It can be essential in maintaining a good cadence when climbing.
Too extreme in any factor like saddle height and fore-and-aft tends to rob you of power, which becomes especially evident on hills. Some conventional wisdom you can read about on the internet may be wrong for some people, like the idea that the saddle should be farther back. The thighs can put down a lot of power like that, but they also tire very quickly.
Good positioning of the handlebars makes a big difference also, because you want to lean forward without being too stretched. It's hard to explain, but it's kind like making your body into a big spring (and this involves both the arms and the legs). A spring isn't good for anything if it's already stretched out). The hoods need to be where they are optimal for both seated and standing climbing so you can do both efficiently.
But no matter what you do, hills are always hard if they are long and steep enough, and as you get older, it gets worse. So it helps to have good gearing for it when you need it. That's why I spec'd my road bike with a racing triple. I don't actually use the small ring that often, but it's there if I feel the need to use it. It can be essential in maintaining a good cadence when climbing.
#7
Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
I second the recommend to get a computer. I'd never had one until I bought my latest bike, which came with Flight Deck compatible brifters. I found an older model Flight Deck on eBay for cheap so I went ahead and got it, just thinking it would be a neat toy to have but not particularly useful. I was amazed at how I'd been apparently mashing for years and have started to make a concerted effort to keep my cadence up, and I believe it really is helping. I'm still a bit of a masher, most comfortable at about 60 RPM or so, but I'm trying to improve that by deliberately spinning it up a bit by staying in a lower gear than I ordinarily would.
#8
cyclepath
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,550
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From: "The Last Best Place"
Bikes: 2005 Trek Pilot 5.0, 2001 Specialized Sirrus Pro, Kona Lava Dome, Raleigh hardtail converted to commuter, 87 Takara steel road bike, 2008 Trek Soho
As far as technique goes, you need a set up where you can climb out of the saddle at least part of the time.
Then you can actually gear up a little and find a comfortable pace.
I love hills. No lie. Bring on the mountains!
Then you can actually gear up a little and find a comfortable pace.
I love hills. No lie. Bring on the mountains!
Last edited by daredevil; 05-10-08 at 07:39 AM.
#9
guacomole!
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
From: Quebec Run, PA
Bikes: Iron Horse Triumph 5.0, Motobecane 29'er
You need to try to maintain your cadence. Shifting gears is how you do that. Try buying a cheap cyclecomputer with cadence and experimenting with it. When you hit a hill, unless it is a really short one, you should gear down until you can keep up the same cadence you would on flat ground. It looks like your bike has an 8-speed hub, so you should have an easy time shifting, because you don't have a front derailer to shift.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 100
Likes: 4
I have a fairly steep quarter mile hill on my commute that I would ride up five days a week and for over a year I was always out of breath when I got to the top. This past winter I mashed my way up this hill on a single speed bike for three months. When I went back to the geared bike I was able to sit and spin up the hill and now it is no problem (unless I am really tired). I know because I ride six days a week I generally don't ride hard enough to push my body to get stronger and I don't ride slow enough to recover. Maybe you could look at the hill as a goal and train to ride up it comfortably. Do intervals and ride fast sometimes to reach the goal. Also, +1 on the low gear and spin technique.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 403
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From: Bellingham, WA
Bikes: Rivendell Atlantis, Kogswell P58, 1988 Pinarello, Rivendell Wilbury (my wife's bike)
Vary your route and shift into low.
I have always ridden in very hilly, and sometimes mountainous, country. Alas, I've never been a great climber; but I have always enjoyed climbing in some weird way. I do get tired of it sometimes...especially while commuting. My commuter is not really set up for out of the saddle climbing, so I just shift lower, scoot back on the saddle, and settle into a comfortable pace.
My commute is only about 4 miles each way, but in the last half a mile or so I gain around 250 feet in elevation. I usually avoid the most direct approach, which goes straight up the steepest part. Most of the time I vary my route up the hill. Sometimes I ride up one block, cross over to the next block, then up again... zigzagging my way up. Other times I ride around the hill to a street that has a longer but less steep ascent.
For less steep, but long, climbs I may also vary the route from time to time. If you follow the same route every day, you know exactly what's coming and it's easy to dread. If you vary your route a bit you break up the monotony and the climb is over before you know it.
Triple chainrings are great if you haul a lot of gear on your commute. Using a super low gear will drag things out a bit, but if you can keep your cadence up you'll be amazed at how long you can pedal up hill. Start off in your lowest gear, concentrating on keeping that cadence up. After awhile you'll notice that you can keep the same cadence with the next gear, and maybe the next one after that.
Sean
My commute is only about 4 miles each way, but in the last half a mile or so I gain around 250 feet in elevation. I usually avoid the most direct approach, which goes straight up the steepest part. Most of the time I vary my route up the hill. Sometimes I ride up one block, cross over to the next block, then up again... zigzagging my way up. Other times I ride around the hill to a street that has a longer but less steep ascent.
For less steep, but long, climbs I may also vary the route from time to time. If you follow the same route every day, you know exactly what's coming and it's easy to dread. If you vary your route a bit you break up the monotony and the climb is over before you know it.
Triple chainrings are great if you haul a lot of gear on your commute. Using a super low gear will drag things out a bit, but if you can keep your cadence up you'll be amazed at how long you can pedal up hill. Start off in your lowest gear, concentrating on keeping that cadence up. After awhile you'll notice that you can keep the same cadence with the next gear, and maybe the next one after that.
Sean
#12
+1 on buying a bike computer
+1 on riding more hills
I actually find that I can get up hills easier if I increase my cadence going into the hill. I cruise at around 90 rpm normally, but when I want to get up a hill, I kick it up to around 100. I discovered this completely by accident. One day I was riding home and I found myself actually increasing speed on a hill that normally kicked my butt. I looked down at the computer and saw that my cadence was way up. Practice comfirmed that this works for me (though it may not work for everyone).
As for improvement, check out the tips on this link:
https://bikenhike.com/page.cfm?pageid=22&tipid=65
My normal commute has the two biggest hills stacked right on top of each other with a dip in between, so it is perfect for building climbing strength. That reminds me of one other thing, if you've got a dip in front of a hill, don't go all out trying to build up speed to take the hill. It wears out your legs before you start. If you've got a situation like this, spin gently down the incline and be ready to work on the hill.
+1 on riding more hills
I actually find that I can get up hills easier if I increase my cadence going into the hill. I cruise at around 90 rpm normally, but when I want to get up a hill, I kick it up to around 100. I discovered this completely by accident. One day I was riding home and I found myself actually increasing speed on a hill that normally kicked my butt. I looked down at the computer and saw that my cadence was way up. Practice comfirmed that this works for me (though it may not work for everyone).
As for improvement, check out the tips on this link:
https://bikenhike.com/page.cfm?pageid=22&tipid=65
My normal commute has the two biggest hills stacked right on top of each other with a dip in between, so it is perfect for building climbing strength. That reminds me of one other thing, if you've got a dip in front of a hill, don't go all out trying to build up speed to take the hill. It wears out your legs before you start. If you've got a situation like this, spin gently down the incline and be ready to work on the hill.
#13
Senior Member


Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,429
Likes: 257
From: Ashland, VA
Bikes: The keepers: 1969 Magneet Sprint, 1971 Gitane Tour de France, 1973 Raleigh Twenty, 3 - 1986 Rossins.
Just remember: If you're commuting, that means you're probably riding the same route home as you rode in the morning. Which means, for every hill you've had to climb, there's a real nice downhill to feel the wind in your hair and go, "WHEEEEEEE!" at the top of your lungs.
I learned years ago that the above makes hills bearable.
I learned years ago that the above makes hills bearable.
__________________
Syke
“No one in this world, so far as I know — and I have searched the records for years, and employed agents to help me — has ever lost money by underestimating the intelligence of the great masses of the plain people. Nor has anyone ever lost public office thereby.”
H.L. Mencken, (1926)
Syke
“No one in this world, so far as I know — and I have searched the records for years, and employed agents to help me — has ever lost money by underestimating the intelligence of the great masses of the plain people. Nor has anyone ever lost public office thereby.”
H.L. Mencken, (1926)
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: London but shortly Sydney
Bikes: Bianchi Road Bike & Gary Fisher Mountain Bike
Hills don't have to be that hard, I think generally people just try and ride them too fast when they are not experienced.
I have recently written a short article on my blog on cycling up hills made easy.
Hope it helps.
I have recently written a short article on my blog on cycling up hills made easy.
Hope it helps.
#15
Beginning Rider
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: Honolulu, HI
Bikes: 2008 Specialized Allez Elite / 2016 Tarmac Expert
I just bought my first road bike and plan to start commuting very soon. My commute isn't very long (4 miles each way), but does have some very challenging hills. I plan to get out and ride some of the hills prior to beginning my commutes, that way I will (hopefully) be ready for them.
#17
Really Old Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,610
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From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3
Is this an internal geared hub?
IF so, sometimes these don't have the best gear spacing for certain riding conditions.
IF so, sometimes these don't have the best gear spacing for certain riding conditions.
#19
mere commuter
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Redlands, CA, USA
Bikes: 2007 Koga-Miyata Expression; 2007 Electra Amsterdam Classic
I learned the technique, but way back -- back when I was learning to drive an auto, and not by accident: in that context they call it downshifting, and I can only guess that it has something to do with the power curve of our 'engines' ;-) I'll bet that there are researchers that can tell us more.
That said, I am able to finely tune my cadence, but that is because I have 14 even-sized gear jumps, an internal geabox chosen specifically to allow me to do that on my commute, just with a simple single twist shifter. Simpletons like me need things to kept simple.
#21
This is just my opinion, not based upon any science, but...
I have two short, but steep, hills to and from work. When I am on my commuter bike with my 30 lbs of junk on the rear rack, the bike climbs like a dog. Whn I have all of my junk in a backpack/shoulder bag, it is much easier.
I do not know why this is, however, 30 lbs of crap in a should back often time sucks more that a sluggish ride of a hill.
I have two short, but steep, hills to and from work. When I am on my commuter bike with my 30 lbs of junk on the rear rack, the bike climbs like a dog. Whn I have all of my junk in a backpack/shoulder bag, it is much easier.
I do not know why this is, however, 30 lbs of crap in a should back often time sucks more that a sluggish ride of a hill.
#22
Heh, I can shift gears all right, but I hate hills anyway.
Here are a few helpful(?) tips:
Shift down...
If you want to fight the hill, you can stand on the pedals, but that might not even be faster when big hills are concerned, because you'll tire yourself. Gear down so you can maintain your cadence.
...but not too far down!
If you select a gear that's too low, you're just going to lose momentum and end up going slowly with just as much effort as going a little faster would have been.
Shift early...
If you wait too long to shift, you won't be able to do it smoothly: the chain will jump from cog to cog sharply, causing you to lose momentum and maybe even balance. Or it might just refuse to shift altogether. Anticipate when the pedalling at the given gear is going to get too difficult, and shift just before then.
...but not too early!
If you shift down too early, you'll end up losing momentum and gaining nothing.
Pedal in circles
It's harder to pedal in circles going uphill than at other times, because the pedals don't have as much momentum to carry over the "dead" point (pedals at 12 and 6 o'clock). If you find it absolutely impossible to do circles, and have to mash the pedals down, that's a hint that you're trying to do it in too high a gear (unless the hill is really steep
). It's not going to be "perfect" cirles - a hill pretty much always means you will probably deviate from your normal technique towards a bit more mashing, but the difference shouldn't be extreme.
Just for an experiment, pick a long hill, put the bike in an easiest gear that you have and ride up the hill in that gear, not worrying about how long it takes. It will take you forever, and you might wobble a little bit even (due to such low gear/speed), but it's not going to be exhausting at all. Then try the same hill again in a somewhat higher gear, until you find a comfortable balance between speed and level of exertion.
Here are a few helpful(?) tips:Shift down...
If you want to fight the hill, you can stand on the pedals, but that might not even be faster when big hills are concerned, because you'll tire yourself. Gear down so you can maintain your cadence.
...but not too far down!
If you select a gear that's too low, you're just going to lose momentum and end up going slowly with just as much effort as going a little faster would have been.
Shift early...
If you wait too long to shift, you won't be able to do it smoothly: the chain will jump from cog to cog sharply, causing you to lose momentum and maybe even balance. Or it might just refuse to shift altogether. Anticipate when the pedalling at the given gear is going to get too difficult, and shift just before then.
...but not too early!
If you shift down too early, you'll end up losing momentum and gaining nothing.
Pedal in circles
It's harder to pedal in circles going uphill than at other times, because the pedals don't have as much momentum to carry over the "dead" point (pedals at 12 and 6 o'clock). If you find it absolutely impossible to do circles, and have to mash the pedals down, that's a hint that you're trying to do it in too high a gear (unless the hill is really steep
). It's not going to be "perfect" cirles - a hill pretty much always means you will probably deviate from your normal technique towards a bit more mashing, but the difference shouldn't be extreme.Just for an experiment, pick a long hill, put the bike in an easiest gear that you have and ride up the hill in that gear, not worrying about how long it takes. It will take you forever, and you might wobble a little bit even (due to such low gear/speed), but it's not going to be exhausting at all. Then try the same hill again in a somewhat higher gear, until you find a comfortable balance between speed and level of exertion.
#23
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,383
Likes: 22
From: Calgary
Bikes: 2018 Ghost Square Trekking B2.8 e-bike; 2015 MEC Cote gravel/touring bike; 1985 Boyes-Rosser tourer, now outfitted as Winter Trundle-bike
I hate hills. HATE THEM. (Almost, but not quite, as much as I hate head winds... apparently I whine a lot when I bke
). The only way I can get up them is to stand and pedal. I actually find spinning in a low gear more tiring than standing to pedal at a moderate cadence in a moderate gear - I don't feel I'm mashing, but maybe by some definitions I am? Anyway, the geometry of my body and my bike makes standing my best option right now.
(If it's really bad, and nobody is looking, I'll walk partway. If there are witnesses, though, I will pedal till my lungs explode. One has one's pride, after all...)
). The only way I can get up them is to stand and pedal. I actually find spinning in a low gear more tiring than standing to pedal at a moderate cadence in a moderate gear - I don't feel I'm mashing, but maybe by some definitions I am? Anyway, the geometry of my body and my bike makes standing my best option right now.(If it's really bad, and nobody is looking, I'll walk partway. If there are witnesses, though, I will pedal till my lungs explode. One has one's pride, after all...)
#24
kipuka explorer

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,297
Likes: 2
From: Hilo Town, East Hawai'i
Bikes: 1994 Trek 820, 2004 Fuji Absolute, 2005 Jamis Nova, 1977 Schwinn Scrambler 36/36
I'd say, get in a nice low gear early and take it nice and slow - don't try to zoom up the hill, pedal hard, or worry about how slow you're going. It'll take twice as long, but you'll still feel fresh at the top. A mistake people make in low gears is trying to go too fast and pedal too hard, instead of taking their time and going slow and steady. Don't stress -enjoy the ride!
__________________
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-=- '05 Jamis Nova -=- '04 Fuji Absolute -=- '94 Trek 820 -=- '77 Schwinn Scrambler 36/36 -=-
Friends don't let friends use brifters.
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Friends don't let friends use brifters.
#25
South Denver Commuter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
From: Aurora, CO
Bikes: 2003 Spec. Epic, 200ish Bianchi Milano
Tie an invisible rubber band around an object at the top of the hill and back to your bike. Feel the invisible rubber band help PULL you up the hill. (Hey whatever works, right?)
If you are commuting, think of all those ladies on the granny bikes with the loaf of french bread sticking out of the basket. I don't see them workin' and sweatin'. Just take your time and enjoy it.
If you are commuting, think of all those ladies on the granny bikes with the loaf of french bread sticking out of the basket. I don't see them workin' and sweatin'. Just take your time and enjoy it.




