Leave it alone. Get everything working well while sinking as little money into the bike as possible. All you want from the drivetrain is for it to work reliably. The difference between downtube shifting and bar ends is nothing for me, some people swear by one thing or another. Either way, you are more than likely changing positions just to shift so to me, they are the same inconvenient shifter which isn't necessarily a bad thing. Your shifters probably aren't indexed so they are inherently reliable but a royal pain if you are used to shifting alot. I got used to downtube shifters about 10 minutes into my first ride and have become a stronger rider because of them. Even Lance Armstrong used a friction downtube shifter for some races.

Feel free to buy commuter accessories though because you can always move those to another bike. nashcommguy had some good suggestions.

+1 w/an Amen, halleluiah for good measure. The main thing is you've got the 'killer' commuter rig to build on. Old school steelframe PacRim bikes are the best and most versatile. Plenty of good used parts around for cheap, cheap, cheap. Even the 'entry level' stuff was pretty good for the time. Once you know how much you're going to be riding a rack and panniers or trunk bag may take the place of a back pack. And yes, please do post pics...we're all geeks here and will appreciate the finer points of a '76 Nishiki passed from father to son. Ride on, youngblood!

Ok here's some pics of what I now know is a 1976 Nishiki Olympic that my dad bought new in 76. My dad barely rode it. It was rebuilt in 1986 with new wheels, tires, gears, and brakes. Since 1986 it has been out once sometime around 1998 or1999. I cleaned it off with a lot of Zep Citrus Heavy Duty Degreaser. There's some corrosion but nothing serious at all just spots here and there. Is there something I should do to adress this? Thanks for all the help guys!

i just found this is it worth it?
https://www.overstock.com/Sports-Toys...html?#moreinfo

Nice looking bike except for the dork dishes.

Might want to put some cork tape on those bars.

nice nishiki. since u used degreaser, be sure to apply lube on the appropriate spots (ie chain, gears).

if its just surface rust, you can:

1. just leave it be to give it character
2. you could sand the spots very well, apply rust inhibitor, paint, clear coat. but if your doing it for looks, beware a spot paint job may look worse than what u had to begin with.
3. if u wanna go balls out, a complete paint stripping, metal treatment, and powdercoating would be it. probably overkill.

i vote #1. ride the bike for a few months first.

i don't think so, not sure the pump would even be usuable for 120 psi.

my recs for those parts are:

1) tail light - cateye tl dl 1100.
2) pump - planet bike roadie frame pump or planet bike mini versair dual action pump
3) crank brother's multi tool 17 or 19.
4) seat bag - eh, whatever's on sale.

i'm a gear geek, and these are the things i'm very happy with after years of trying out different stuff. it will be more expensive than that kit, but worth it in the long run.

Nice find.

Totally sweet.

Are those wheels steel? (Hoping not...) If you decide you like the bike, a wheelset -- even a moderately priced one -- will be the best thing you could do for it.

not sure...what theyre made of but im looking to get new ones regardless... is it possible to get smaller diameter wheels i'd like something a little shorter...i was thinking 26"

26" won't work. Why would you want that anyways? I think you could put on some 700c's (= modern road bike size).

would 700's work?

^^^

That's what I was thinking. 26" wheels would require some very strange brake mods/bosses and is A Very Bad Idea anyway.

There's a great selection of 700c rims and you most likely wouldn't have to change a thing to use them.

I recommend getting a front wheel dynamo from Peter White cycles and a back wheel to match. Look at the 32 spoke Mavic Open Sport silver. The dynamo thing is a little pricey as a one-time spend, but you'll have lights forever and never have to deal with batteries, recharging, blah.

Even if you aren't interested in the dynamo, the Mavic Open Sport is probably a good rim for the price. I really like my Salsa Delgado rims too, but since they came with my bike I don't know what they cost.

Look for something that'll let you run tires from 23-32 mm wide. I'd think the Ultra Gatorskin 25mm would be the ticket.

NOTE: I don't know why I'm so enthusiastic about this skinny kid's old Nikishi. Yes I do -- I love garage finds.

700c wheels will probably fit. You may or may not need new brakes. Look at where the brake pads mount to the caliper. They should be held in place by a nut that is secured to a slider. If there is some room left to go down on the sliders, 700c wheels will probably fit fine. 700c wheels are slightly smaller than 27 inch. I would just keep the wheels if they are aluminum. Just take them to a bike shop and ask to have them trued and have the bearings repacked if you don't feel like messing with it. It shouldn't cost a ton for that.

I would just hit the corrosion up with a green scrubby pad then maybe wax over it with some car wax.

Just looking at your pics, that seat looks wrong for the type of bike. See how you like it but it looks too wide for a road bike. It's not a macho thing to have slimer seats, it's mostly to give clearance to your thighs. If it sucks, come here and ask for recommendations. Most people will probably say to get a brooks b-17 which is pretty much most comfortable all around seat ever made.