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Originally Posted by DVC45
(Post 15318275)
Nexus 8.
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Originally Posted by Commutersport
(Post 15317964)
Nice bike H.S.Clydesdale! How tall are you?
I am also 240lbs, which is why I went with the velocity chukkers (36h both), and the B67 saddle, as opposed to the more popular B17. I am not sure I'm sold on the seat springs though, I want to try a B17 and see if I like it better. |
Originally Posted by acidfast7
(Post 15317913)
nice IGH ... interesting ride.
fyi, I have not done any maintenance on the Nexus 7. It seems fine. I have personally put 2k miles on it, but bought it used so am unsure of its total mileage. I have read that all internal hubs can benefit from oil bath dips, and I want to try that, but have not gotten around to it yet. I am sure I'll post something about it when I do. |
Originally Posted by H.S.Clydesdale
(Post 15318477)
I am 6'7", but I have short arms and legs for my height. I learned this on the highschool basketball team when a couple guys who were 6'3" actually had a higher reach than me. But I am not the weird one, they were lanky. Anyway, my inseam is 37". Many folks shorter than me have a similar inseam. This bike fits me quite well.
I am also 240lbs, which is why I went with the velocity chukkers (36h both), and the B67 saddle, as opposed to the more popular B17. I am not sure I'm sold on the seat springs though, I want to try a B17 and see if I like it better. Nice ride, love the head tube height! I am 6'7" myself, and had troubles finding a tall frame. Actually tall road bikes aren't such a problem, but something for fatter tires isn't that easy to find... I went with the 61cm frame on the end, Salsa fork with 35cm steerer was a deal saver. I am 265 pounds and like my B17, feels springy enough. Actually riding now Specialized Avatar, enough cushion for good pavement. Sorry if the photo had appeared in this thread earlier. Summer mode, singlespeed and no dynamo lights, Alfine 8 and IQ cyo in winter time. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7229/7...635e66cb_b.jpg PS. The cranks on this photo are 205mm long, but went back to 175mm since I started road riding... And the whole cockpit got quite stretched out, I like it now. But if it was snow and slush, sand or towing kids then 200mm rock! May I ask where have you got the IRD cranks and how much was it? |
Originally Posted by mikhalit
(Post 15318870)
I went with the 61cm frame on the end...
I am 265 pounds and like my B17, feels springy enough... I am also curious about the shallow drops on your bars. What are those? My drops are probably too deep. If your curious, the headtube on my frame is 26cm. Have you thought about longer cranks? The IRD 200mm cranks have completely changed my experience. I think IRD just came out with these, so they are new inexpensive option for tall riders. Previously, tall folk had to pay a lot of money for custom or semi-custom longer cranks. I highly recommend them. It feels as though I have never really had the full experience of riding a bicycle before the longer cranks. I can get SO much more of my legs into the pedaling motion. Its the difference between skipping and bounding, or hopping and leaping. With 170mm cranks, I was using the bottom of the quads only (vastus medialus?), and with 200mm cranks I am using all my quads, my hamstrings, and the good ole gluteous maxiumus, for maximus power. Its like the difference between a high revving 4 cylinder that might make 130 ft-lbs of low end torque and revs to 9k, and a V8 that make 500 ft-lbs of low end torque and revs to 5k. Granted, the power output might be the same (or better on the 4 pot), but a wholly different experience. For my purposes, commuting not racing, the V8 is by far the way to go. |
Originally Posted by acidfast7
(Post 15318298)
have you done any maintenance on it yet? i'm curious about the durability.
I will post if I find any problems with it. So far its been great. |
Originally Posted by H.S.Clydesdale
(Post 15319072)
Sweet! That is a nice fork, I'll keep it in mind as an option for any threadless frames I come across. What is that frame? Disc brake mount + lugs seems very rare. Also looks like a vertical dropout, has that been a problem, did you just get lucky with the chain tension?
The frame is German Poison Chinin IGH, it has an excentric BB and vertical dropouts. I like the combination very much. I was lucky to get this frame for half the price off the German ebay, I can PM you the name of the seller if you like. I am also curious about the shallow drops on your bars. What are those? My drops are probably too deep. If your curious, the headtube on my frame is 26cm. Have you thought about longer cranks? The IRD 200mm cranks have completely changed my experience. I think IRD just came out with these, so they are new inexpensive option for tall riders. Previously, tall folk had to pay a lot of money for custom or semi-custom longer cranks. I highly recommend them. It feels as though I have never really had the full experience of riding a bicycle before the longer cranks. I can get SO much more of my legs into the pedaling motion. Its the difference between skipping and bounding, or hopping and leaping. With 170mm cranks, I was using the bottom of the quads only (vastus medialus?), and with 200mm cranks I am using all my quads, my hamstrings, and the good ole gluteous maxiumus, for maximus power. Its like the difference between a high revving 4 cylinder that might make 130 ft-lbs of low end torque and revs to 9k, and a V8 that make 500 ft-lbs of low end torque and revs to 5k. Granted, the power output might be the same (or better on the 4 pot), but a wholly different experience. For my purposes, commuting not racing, the V8 is by far the way to go. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6093/6...5f0b4294d5.jpg |
Originally Posted by mikhalit
(Post 15318870)
PS. The cranks on this photo are 205mm long, but went back to 175mm since I started road riding... And the whole cockpit got quite stretched out, I like it now. But if it was snow and slush, sand or towing kids then 200mm rock! May I ask where have you got the IRD cranks and how much was it? |
Originally Posted by H.S.Clydesdale
(Post 15320309)
Oh hey, sorry, I completely missed the PS last time. I also did not know your cranks are 205mm in the photo (as you could probably tell from my comments). I was not aware of the Kuosac cranks, though I am very familiar with Zinn. I got the IRD cranks from my LBS, they were $120 US. You can find them listed on the interloc racing design website; http://store.interlocracing.com/irdexlocrar.html I think most major bike shops can place orders with interloc. You can order direct from the website, but I was able to find them cheaper at the store, plus no shipping charge.
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Restoring my beloved 1970 Robin Hood....just made these custom wooden pedals to match my wooden racks...check em out ( going for the black/chrome/old school wood look)
http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...47da27ebbb.jpg http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...9868c78cf0.jpg http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...cf2782448a.jpg http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...79119f82c1.jpg http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...78c2ac96cd.jpg |
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My wife got me this Surly Crosscheck for my 40th birthday-- I love it! I go back and forth on how much I plan to ride it in the winters. This week the weather has been good though, so the decision is easy. I changed my other commuter to a 1x8, which seems to be plenty of gears in the Twin Cities (there aren't many hills to deal with). It makes it so much easier to clean around the bottom bracket, I think I may do that to this bike too.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=301640 |
Originally Posted by Robinhood1970
(Post 15323773)
Restoring my beloved 1970 Robin Hood....just made these custom wooden pedals to match my wooden racks...check em out ( going for the black/chrome/old school wood look)
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The wood is pine which is cheep ($3.50) from lowes and its spray coated with spar urethane "Helsman" by Minwax. I've used this outdoor spray on a outdoor picnic bench still good after three years! I don't ride in the rain so we shall see! Going to get oak when income across it.
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How about Teak or Mahogany ? Better around moisture.
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Originally Posted by PennyTheDog
(Post 15323806)
My wife got me this Surly Crosscheck for my 40th birthday-- I love it! I go back and forth on how much I plan to ride it in the winters. This week the weather has been good though, so the decision is easy. I changed my other commuter to a 1x8, which seems to be plenty of gears in the Twin Cities (there aren't many hills to deal with). It makes it so much easier to clean around the bottom bracket, I think I may do that to this bike too.
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New Commuter
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http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=301747
Raleigh Tripper as it sits against my office wall -Topeak Super Tourist Rack -Plastic fenders A little spinny for my taste with a 39x20 ratio but I plan to experiment with some smaller cogs soon. I have experience with 3-speeds and find them to be adequate for areas which aren't too hilly, provided you get the gear ratio "just right". I also have plans to switch to drop bars, but I'm giving the narrow flat bars a chance. |
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Just added fenders and new stem last week.http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=301995
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I posted my new Crosscheck just a couple posts ago, but now I've had it and ridden it for a week, and I just finished setting it up the way I want. I took the front derailleur and shifter off, to make it a 1x9. The Twin Cities are so flat, I never change chain rings anyway. And it makes so much easier to clean. While I was at it I changed to tan bar tape. I also use a pair of black Banjo Brothers waterproof panniers. I love riding this bike!
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=302135 |
Originally Posted by PennyTheDog
(Post 15323806)
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New bike for commuting/fun. Cyclocross fits my commute well - it is more than 60% off road. I was using panniers but a rack on this bike doesn't seem very feasible. I am thinking of an Ortlieb Packman Pro 2. Any opinions?
http://hawkman.smugmug.com/Other/Stu..._63T7233-L.jpg http://hawkman.smugmug.com/Other/Stu..._63T7229-L.jpg |
Seat post rack would probably work.
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please help! trying to restore 1967 robin hood.....i was able to remove both cotter pins and remove the left crank arm...but i can't get the right one off...i dont have any special tools...and tips or tricks?
http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...mac/crank3.jpg http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...mac/crank2.jpg http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...mac/crank1.jpg |
mechanics forum?
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please help! trying to restore 1967 robin hood.....i was able to remove both cotter pins and remove the left crank arm...but i can't get the right one off...i dont have any special tools...and tips or tricks?
A special threaded tool is used to pull the crank arms off the bottom bracket making it a lot easier, particularly on the drive side. You also need bottom bracket wrenches to pull the bottom bracket out. You should consider replacing it with a modern sealed unit anyway. If the bottom bracket has corrosion this can be a problem. Do you have access to a bicycle co-op w/ tools and experienced mechanics ? If not, a sensible LBS that is comfortable servicing old bikes w/o charging a fortune ? Best o' luck. |
Switched the Ogre back to a flat-bar, geared set-up (was a drop bar fixie). Added a Soma Porteur front rack and a Thudbuster seatpost (works great)
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps5af4dc26.png |
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