1x9 commuters
#1
1x9 commuters
It would be cool to get thread going for people who run a 1x9 rig.
I am curious about 1x9 on a road/cross bike...
Do you ever throw or drop the chain?
What size chainring are you running?
Etc...
I am curious about 1x9 on a road/cross bike...
Do you ever throw or drop the chain?
What size chainring are you running?
Etc...
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: Bianchi San Remo - set up as a utility bike, Peter Mooney Road bike, Peter Mooney commute bike,Dahon Folder,Schwinn Paramount Tandem
I have a triple, and never move off of the middle ring. I am in the process of building up a new commuter rig which will be 1x9, and am considering using this I'd love to hear the experiences of others using this, or other 1x9 or 1x8 rigs. I don't use indexed shifters for the rder so I am flexible on 1x8 or 1x9.
#5
There are guards you can use to prevent chain jumping, or you can use an old FD to keep it in place.
I'm also a virtual 1x9 cyclist, got a triple up front but never move off the middle ring. I'm pretty sure my FD is completely out of adjustment, and is there just to prevent chain jumping.
I'm also a virtual 1x9 cyclist, got a triple up front but never move off the middle ring. I'm pretty sure my FD is completely out of adjustment, and is there just to prevent chain jumping.
#6
always rides with luggage
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,109
Likes: 20
From: KIGX
Bikes: 2007 Trek SU100, 2009 Fantom CX, 2012 Fantom Cross Uno, Bakfiets
Sorry, I run 1x8 on a MTB, but it is a 9sp mech, so when the cassette wears out I will go to 9. It is 36x11-28, but I will probably go to 38x11-34.
I have only thrown the chain once. I have a bashguard, but that one time, it fell inward. So there's a Third Eye chain watcher on the inside now.
I have only thrown the chain once. I have a bashguard, but that one time, it fell inward. So there's a Third Eye chain watcher on the inside now.
__________________
--Ben
2006 Trek SU100, 2009 Motobecane Fantom CX, 2011 Motobecane Fantom Cross Uno, and a Bakfiets
Previously: 2000 Trek 4500 (2000-2003), 2003 Novara Randonee (2003-2006), 2003 Giant Rainier (2003-2008), 2005 Xootr Swift (2005-2007), 2007 Nashbar 1x9 (2007-2011), 2011 Windsor Shetland (2011-2014), 2008 Citizen Folder (2015)
Non-Bike hardware: MX Linux / BunsenLabs Linux / Raspbian / Mac OS 10.6 / Android 7
--Ben
2006 Trek SU100, 2009 Motobecane Fantom CX, 2011 Motobecane Fantom Cross Uno, and a Bakfiets
Previously: 2000 Trek 4500 (2000-2003), 2003 Novara Randonee (2003-2006), 2003 Giant Rainier (2003-2008), 2005 Xootr Swift (2005-2007), 2007 Nashbar 1x9 (2007-2011), 2011 Windsor Shetland (2011-2014), 2008 Citizen Folder (2015)
Non-Bike hardware: MX Linux / BunsenLabs Linux / Raspbian / Mac OS 10.6 / Android 7
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, WA, USA
Bikes: Surly Crosscheck, Surly Pacer
I run a 39t chainring and an 11-34t cassette on my Surly Pacer. I have an old triple front crank with the small ring removed and the big ring replaced with a salsa crossing guard. I don't think you would actually need the crossing guard (to keep the chain from jumping), but it was an easy way for me to re-use my old chain ring bolts.
I love 1x9 soo much. I wish I had gone to it a long time ago.
I love 1x9 soo much. I wish I had gone to it a long time ago.
#8
Senior Member


Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 11,512
Likes: 4,929
From: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, 86 De Rosa Pro, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
I run a 1x8. the bike is an 82 nishiki I turned into an english 3 speed look type of design
I am running a SRAM wide range cassete on the back (13-34??? forget exactly) and 39 on the front.
I moved the inner 39 ring to the outer ring....I got a better chain line that way.
I use a simple thumb shifter.
I have had no problems with dropping the chain....but it is used prettly calmly.
The only problem I had was that the 39 ring doesnt have the little peg to keep the chain from getting jammed between the outer ring and the crank....as i discovered once changing a rear tire.
I am running a SRAM wide range cassete on the back (13-34??? forget exactly) and 39 on the front.
I moved the inner 39 ring to the outer ring....I got a better chain line that way.
I use a simple thumb shifter.
I have had no problems with dropping the chain....but it is used prettly calmly.
The only problem I had was that the 39 ring doesnt have the little peg to keep the chain from getting jammed between the outer ring and the crank....as i discovered once changing a rear tire.
#9
Justin
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,051
Likes: 0
From: Bayou City
Bikes: Soma Double Cross, KHS Urban Uno
FD cable got all frayed on the deraileur and was scratching my leg so I pulled the cable at work and haven't bothered to replace since I never really used it been meaning to take off the fd will do now and see what happens on my ride today. I have a std cross setup 39-46 and 12/26 I will try both small and big ring.
#10
I run a 39t chainring and an 11-34t cassette on my Surly Pacer. I have an old triple front crank with the small ring removed and the big ring replaced with a salsa crossing guard. I don't think you would actually need the crossing guard (to keep the chain from jumping), but it was an easy way for me to re-use my old chain ring bolts.
I love 1x9 soo much. I wish I had gone to it a long time ago.
I love 1x9 soo much. I wish I had gone to it a long time ago.
How does your Pacer climb?
#11
staring at the mountains

Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,576
Likes: 218
From: Castle Pines, CO
Bikes: Obed GVR, Fairdale Goodship, Salsa Timberjack 29
I'm running 1x8 with a 48t Sugino track crankset. Deore LX RD, and I do throw the chain ev'ry now and again on shifts in the tallest two gears; the chain will jump a little and add that to the poor chainline as it gets that far out and I get a jump to the outside. Happens infrequently enough that I haven't done anything about it, but when it does man I'm peeved....
#12
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,569
Likes: 6
This setup is just not for commuting. I plan on racing this coming Fall. I'll also have another wheelset with a 11-32T cassette for bikepacking/light touring.
#13
Senior Member


Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 30,506
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From: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
Any pics of these creatures? I came close to a Specialized Milano but she sold it before I got to look at it.
#14
All Bikes All The Time
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,343
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From: Boise, ID
Bikes: Giant TCR 0, Lemond Zurich, Giant NRS 1, Jamis Explorer Beater/Commuter, Peugeot converted single speed
I am running 1X9 on my Peugeot P8. Love it. I can easily get over 30 mph on the 42/12. I see no reason for a bigger gear than that here in Boise for a commuter. I have never dropped a chain but I do have a problem getting the friction shifting to stay dead on. I get some ghost shifting (especially when I sprint). But I think that is more a function of the shifter.
I think Ontheroadid runs a 1X9 here in Boise as well. Most East-West Boise area commuters only have a 100 foot bench to climb (if they have to deal with that).
I think Ontheroadid runs a 1X9 here in Boise as well. Most East-West Boise area commuters only have a 100 foot bench to climb (if they have to deal with that).
Last edited by Sawtooth; 03-19-09 at 01:54 PM.
#15
Senior Member


Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 30,506
Likes: 4,579
From: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
FYI: My friction shifters are a completely new animal after replacing the cables and housings. Is yours clean? lubed?
#16
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
From: SW Idaho
My cross bike is a "virtual" 1x9, as I basically tool around almost exclusively on the middle ring of my Ultegra 52-42-30.... I have a 12-27 on the rear. The only time I get any rubbing/chainline issues is when I'm on the largest cog. Around here (SW Idaho) that's not often.
I'd recommend a 42 or 44-tooth chainring and a 12-27 based on my experience. You can get up all but the steepest climbs (without being Lance) and can still top 30 mph without spinning out.
You've got the seed of a great idea. Go for it!
I'd recommend a 42 or 44-tooth chainring and a 12-27 based on my experience. You can get up all but the steepest climbs (without being Lance) and can still top 30 mph without spinning out.
You've got the seed of a great idea. Go for it!
#17
Senior Member


Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 11,512
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From: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, 86 De Rosa Pro, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
#18
I ride a 1x9 (Novara Buzz). If your chain is "jumping" off the front chainring it could be the chainring needs replacement. The only drawback, so far as I can see, with a 1x9 set-up is that moving the chain from 1 to 9 means a pretty severe chain angle, which, over time, wears down chainrings at a faster rate than you would with a double, triple or FG/SS.
#19
Palmer

Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,169
Likes: 2,275
From: Parts Unknown
Bikes: Mike Melton custom, Alex Moulton AM, Dahon Curl
Nothing-New-Here Department: In The Dancing Chain there's an illustration of a 1X4 fitted with a little keeper over the chainwheel. The illustration is dated 1931.
Alex Moulton is a fan of one-by drivetrains, and over the last 45 years has turned out models with factory 1x6, 1x7, 1x8, 1x9 and 1x10 set-ups.
tcs
#20
All Bikes All The Time
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,343
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From: Boise, ID
Bikes: Giant TCR 0, Lemond Zurich, Giant NRS 1, Jamis Explorer Beater/Commuter, Peugeot converted single speed
#21
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, WA, USA
Bikes: Surly Crosscheck, Surly Pacer
#23
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, WA, USA
Bikes: Surly Crosscheck, Surly Pacer
Yea, but it also means you get to tune your setup by changing the chainring until you are usually in the middle (or close to it). I spend most of my time in gears 5 and 6.
#24
absolutely. I love my 1x9 and do spend most of the time in the middle gears but just a warning about the effect of the extreme gears on the drivetrain. There is also the theory of "why have the gears if you don't use them" IOW, you could tune your set up so that you have a pretty tight cluster and use all the gears rather than just 5 and 6.
For me the lower gears are "winter" gears. Since I use the bike all season long and find myself in some pretty gnarly ice and slush I like having a pretty low gear available for those times. Once the snow melts I don't use those lower cogs except when I'm going walking speed.
I could easily get by on my commute with an 11-19 cassette or 12-21 and make full use of all the gears but I wouldn't have a granny that one time I needed it.
here it is in use:
Last edited by buzzman; 03-19-09 at 07:49 PM.






