Looking for an aggressive IGH commuter on the cheap
#1
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Joined: Dec 2009
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Looking for an aggressive IGH commuter on the cheap
Hey all,
I have a relatively short commute (2-3 miles) through a flat, busy city with rather rough roads, crappy drivers, and lots of stopping and going.
I've been riding a POS crosslake sales fixed gear bike, and it has been alright. However, I do not feel all that safe on the bike because the components are so crappy. I am ready to buy a better bike. I have been stalking craigslist for months, but nothing has caught me eye. I don't really have the time or money to customize a bike either.
I really like the simplicity of a fixed gear, especially since my commute is on flat land, but there are a few things I want.
Here are some IGH bikes I have been thinking of:
Kilo WT5 (https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/kilott_wt5.htm):
Kilo WT (https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../kilott_wt.htm)
IRO Phoenix 3-speed (https://irocycle.com/index.asp?PageAc...ROD&ProdID=173)
IRO Phoenix fix/free (https://irocycle.com/index.asp?PageAc...ROD&ProdID=163)
Other bikes on my rader too, opinions welcome:
Need help, please!
Ross
I have a relatively short commute (2-3 miles) through a flat, busy city with rather rough roads, crappy drivers, and lots of stopping and going.
I've been riding a POS crosslake sales fixed gear bike, and it has been alright. However, I do not feel all that safe on the bike because the components are so crappy. I am ready to buy a better bike. I have been stalking craigslist for months, but nothing has caught me eye. I don't really have the time or money to customize a bike either.
I really like the simplicity of a fixed gear, especially since my commute is on flat land, but there are a few things I want.
- I like the responsiveness of the fixed gear with the "track" geometry, but I want something a bit more relaxed for everyday commuting. However, I am not looking for a dutch, totally upright ride
- I want room for fenders
- I want slightly bigger tires (maybe 32s at most) for the occasional path or broken up road/sidewalk (I do 95% of my riding on the road)
- I have been thinking a 3 or 5 speed IGH would be nice, not sure if it would benefit me though. I like be able to control my speed without having to use brakes (but I do have brakes) in the stop and go traffic
- Need a bike that is pretty bulletproof, but not looking to break the bank
Here are some IGH bikes I have been thinking of:
Kilo WT5 (https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/kilott_wt5.htm):
- Would really like input on this bike as there is not much info about it
- Pros: Aggresive geometry based on on the Surly Steamroller, components look good, IGH 5 speed sturmey archer hub (anyone have opinons on this hub for commuting?), plenty or room for tires, room for fenders, mounts for rack
- Cons: bikesdirect quality (however, i can get this bike locally from cycling spectrum which will set it up), possible issues with toe overlap, kind of want flat or riser bars, at 5'10" with short arms I am inbetween the 53cm and 56cm size, track-ends with fenders
Kilo WT (https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../kilott_wt.htm)
- Fixed/free version of Kilo WT5, see pros and cons above
IRO Phoenix 3-speed (https://irocycle.com/index.asp?PageAc...ROD&ProdID=173)
- Pros: More relaxed geometry than the IRO Mark V with room for tires, fenders, and racks, 56cm will probably fit me better than 56cm WT5, 3-speed IGH, good components
- Cons: Its only a 3-speed (5speed>3speed?), more expensive than Kilo WT5
IRO Phoenix fix/free (https://irocycle.com/index.asp?PageAc...ROD&ProdID=163)
- fixed/free version of IRO Phoenix 3-speed
Other bikes on my rader too, opinions welcome:
- Redline 925 (https://www.redlinebicycles.com/bikes/commute/2010--925)
- Redline Metro 9 (https://www.redlinebicycles.com/bikes...e/2010-metro-9) - like the 925 but this a 9 speed derailer system (Is an IGH better than a delrailer for ease of use daily commuting?)
- Torker U-District (https://www.torkerusa.com/bikes/commu...2010-udistrict) - fixed gear with room for fenders, but with a hi-ten frame (yuck)
- Torker Graduate (https://www.torkerusa.com/bikes/commu.../2010-graduate) - IGH 5-speed with hub brakes
Need help, please!
Ross
Last edited by megarek; 03-07-10 at 03:57 PM.
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 903
Likes: 1
From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: 2010 Kona Dr. Dew, Moose Bicycle XXL (fat bike), Yuba Mundo V3
Another for you to look at:
https://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=worldbike
I'd suggest considering the Dr. Fine as well, except that they're already sold out basically everywhere. (I tried to get one and couldn't.)
The question of IGH vs. derailleur systems isn't simple. IGH systems will generally have lower day-to-day and week-to-week maintenance. Lube the chain once in a while and you're pretty much good to go. Not even that if you're using a belt drive system.
They're slightly less efficient in ideal conditions than derailleur systems, but keep their efficiency in bad conditions and when neglected better than a derailleur, due to fewer exposed moving parts. They can also shift when stopped, which is sometimes useful.
The down side is the longer-term maintenance on IGH systems is a pain, particularly if you've been riding a lot in really bad weather (snow/ice/salt). You're talking getting your LBS to tear down the hub, re-lube it, replace worn parts (which may be hard to acquire), etc. I've heard once a year or so is a good frequency.
https://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=worldbike
I'd suggest considering the Dr. Fine as well, except that they're already sold out basically everywhere. (I tried to get one and couldn't.)
The question of IGH vs. derailleur systems isn't simple. IGH systems will generally have lower day-to-day and week-to-week maintenance. Lube the chain once in a while and you're pretty much good to go. Not even that if you're using a belt drive system.
They're slightly less efficient in ideal conditions than derailleur systems, but keep their efficiency in bad conditions and when neglected better than a derailleur, due to fewer exposed moving parts. They can also shift when stopped, which is sometimes useful.
The down side is the longer-term maintenance on IGH systems is a pain, particularly if you've been riding a lot in really bad weather (snow/ice/salt). You're talking getting your LBS to tear down the hub, re-lube it, replace worn parts (which may be hard to acquire), etc. I've heard once a year or so is a good frequency.
#3
Senior Member


Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 715
Likes: 229
Of course the IGH will have a higher initial purchase price than a derailleur system. Also, consider if you want just a coaster brake (not recommended) or hand brakes (highly recommended). With a coaster brake, if the chain breaks you no longer have a brake. At least with a pair of hand brakes, even if one of the cables breaks, you still have at least one brake to use.
#5
Born Again Pagan
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,241
Likes: 2
From: Southwestern Ontario
Bikes: Schwinn hybrid, Raleigh MTB
You could also consider using a chain tensioner (providing the frame you choose has a derailleur hanger) and a double chainring with front derailleur. That would give you twice the gear range yet still provide you with single speed simplicity. I assume this setup could be used with fixed gear, but having never ridden one, I could be wrong (it wouldn't be the first time).
#6
Very, very Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,224
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From: Chicago
Bikes: 2012 Surly Troll, 1999 Hardtail MTB
Also, consider if you want just a coaster brake (not recommended) or hand brakes (highly recommended). With a coaster brake, if the chain breaks you no longer have a brake. At least with a pair of hand brakes, even if one of the cables breaks, you still have at least one brake to use.
Obviously a secondary brake system is always a very good idea.
However, I've used coaster brakes for little while now, and have to say I haven't even touched my front cantis yet.
#7
Also Swobo Otis. 3sp w/disc front/coaster rear. Will take fenders and rear rack. 26" wheels,but will take fat knobbies for snow riding in winter. Mine's been super low maintenance(couple adjustments to front brake,that's it) and they'll built tough(I've used mine for polo).
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C'dale BBU('05 and '09)/Super Six/Hooligan8and 3,Kona Dew Deluxe,Novara Buzz/Safari,Surly Big Dummy,Marin Pt Reyes,Giant Defy 1,Schwinn DBX SuperSport,Brompton S6L/S2E-X/M6L-X/S12 T Line


C'dale BBU('05 and '09)/Super Six/Hooligan8and 3,Kona Dew Deluxe,Novara Buzz/Safari,Surly Big Dummy,Marin Pt Reyes,Giant Defy 1,Schwinn DBX SuperSport,Brompton S6L/S2E-X/M6L-X/S12 T Line

#8
multimodal commuter
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: NJ, NYC, LI
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Get an old Raleigh Sports, flip the handlebars upside down, and upgrade the rims to aluminum. Bikes before ca. 1973 will have 32H front, 40H rear rims, but you can use 32H for both.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,522
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From: Madison, WI
IMO, the really big advantage of IGH is for a cargo bike. It can be really frustrating to deal with drivers attempting to hook you, crazy pedestrians, and other cyclists if you're regularly hauling 30+ lbs with a derailler drivetrain. It takes space to downshift with a derailler, and quite a lot of the time, I just don't have it. I'm the Person In Charge Of Groceries, for a household of two hungry cyclists. I love my internal gear hub. It is my precious. If I had the option of riding unloaded tho, I'd go singlespeed. They're about the same on maintenance, and it's very flat here.
If you need a 56cm in the Redline 925, they're sold out. It was my partner's first choice of bike since the frame geometry suits him (loooong top tube). His fallback was a Bianchi San Jose. They're very similar bikes, tho the Redline has a few more bits included. The Bianchi is going to be a lot easier to find in person.
If you need a 56cm in the Redline 925, they're sold out. It was my partner's first choice of bike since the frame geometry suits him (loooong top tube). His fallback was a Bianchi San Jose. They're very similar bikes, tho the Redline has a few more bits included. The Bianchi is going to be a lot easier to find in person.
#10
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 143
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From: Silver Spring, MD
I just picked up a Torker Graduate (I have 3 other bikes: a Surly Long Haul Trucker, old Cannondale Touring, and a Surly Big Dummy) - I was looking for something low maintenance for city riding (DC Metro area). In the past I built up an IRO Rob Roy with a Shimano 8-speed IGH - this was a great city bike, and the Torker improves on this with the drum brakes. The fenders, chainring guard, and partial chaincase are a nice addition as well - these with the drum brakes and IGH mean very little dirt/grease transfer on to me, and very little maintenance. I would not classify the Graduate, as-built, an aggressive ride - the front steering is nimble, but the posture with the stock stem and risers is pretty upright for me. A quick stem flip or swap and/or handlebar adjustment or swap could change this. The Sturmey 5-speed does not seem to shift as smoothly as the Shimano 3, 7, and 8-speed IGH's that I've owned, but it's good enough. The Graduate has some low quality parts here and there that may not stand up to the long-haul with rough riding, but at the price point it's at, it will be easy to fix or replace any issues you might have with the headset, stem, or seatpost.
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#11
The Drive Side is Within


Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,344
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From: New Haven, CT, USA
Bikes: Road, Cargo, Tandem, Etc.
that WT5 sure looks awesome. If there were anything in my bike budget right now, it would be going towards that bike.
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The bicycle, the bicycle surely, should always be the vehicle of novelists and poets. Christopher Morley
The bicycle, the bicycle surely, should always be the vehicle of novelists and poets. Christopher Morley
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