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Slightly Overwhelmed Newbie
Hiya. I made the decision a few weeks ago that I want to start commuting to work by bike. Combination of factors went into this including gas prices, wanting to get more excercise, live a little greener and to have a greater range of transportation options as my sister and I are roommates and have to share one car. I haven't made a purchase yet, mainly because I'm somewhat overwhelmed with information. I'm the type of person who tends to over-research and then get paralized with indecision. There aren't many bike commuters where I work, so I haven't been able to pick anyone's brain who has any real experience.
I'm also limited in terms of budget since I haven't had time to save up for this and my sister's new position at her job occured suddenly. I have been searching Craigslist, but most of what seems to show up in my area are either kids bikes, mountain bikes, out of my price range ($350+) or fixer uppers that are beyond my ability to fix. So it looks like I'm going to be limited to department store entry level bikes for now. I know that bikes are very much you get what you pay for, but I figure I can get something cheeper now and save up for something nicer in six or seven months just with the gas savings. I live less than a mile from work, but due to being on opposite sides of an interstate it looks like the safest route is about 15 miles (nearest overpass that doesn't have on or off ramps). The area where I live is fairly flat, with the largest change in elevation being the overpass itself. Ideally I'd like to find something that either has or can have a rear rack and fenders attached but isn't a cruiser type bike. If it makes any difference, I'm in pretty good shape and would have to say that I value speed over comfort. I'd really appreciate any reccomendations that people can provide. Thanks! |
There are good options in your price range for what you want to do.
I strongly advise against a "department store bike," also known as a "bike shaped object" (BSO). You need a bike that was assembled by someone with knowhow, and you will not find that at Walmart or Target. Probably not even at your local sporting goods store. Go visit a local bike shop and let them know what you're looking for. There are definitely decent bikes that can be had in your budget. I started commuting on a 10 year old hardtail mountain bike that was 350 when it was new. It was a reputable brand and has been handed down to a friend who still uses it. You may want to leave room in your budget for helmet and accessories depending on what you want to do and when you ride your bike (at night, or in the winter, for example.) |
You can do any commute on an old well-built mountain bike, which is why I love craigslist. You can keep it as is and ride the hell out of it, or put it on slick tires for the road and still ride it like hell. You do not need to buy a department store bike. An old mountain bike may eventually need some parts replaced, but I bet you could buy everything you need to commute and have an old mtb in commuting shape for the amount of money you want to spend. And where I live, $350 can get a new Rockhopper or a very nice Diamondback at the local bike shops. If you're keen on a new road bike, there are some new bikes that are in your price range, but they won't be very great; I'd say the bang-for-your-buck price starts around $400 (Just a guess, I'm no roadie), unless you're hunting on craigslist. Since you live in flat terrain, I suggest single speed or fixed gear bicycles if you are keen on a new road bike.
The idea of buying a low quality bike now and getting rid of it when you can buy a better one doesn't sit well with me, maybe because I'm cheap. Why not get a decent bicycle now and upgrade it later? You'll love being a bike geek! |
I agree with aggierads. Department store bikes are flat out unsafe for ridding in traffic or for dependable transportation. I dont know how they get away with calling some of those things "bikes."
Anyways, if your budget is truly limited just tell the bike shop owner and see if he can do anything. Remember too that when you buy from a local shop then you are also purchasing a certain amount of free labor that will usually include free fitting, adjustments, and sometimes cleanings! Even in the very short term of things a department store bike can often cost a lot more than the price tag because of constant repairs right out of the box! `15 miles is a good size commute, even for a relative veteran. I know you said your in good shape but you are also going to need decent wheels to not destroy yourself everyday doing that ride. I would also conisder shopping online in your case. Heres a quick road bike that can handle a rack for 299 http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...ington1_IX.htm Also, ask your local bike shop if they sell used bikes or know of a used bike retailer in the area. Does you city have a "bicycle kitchen" or other community bicycle shop? I volunteered at one in my city and they would put together reliable machines from donated bicycles and sell them real cheap. You got a lot of options so don't run to walmart just yet! :) |
I started four years ago with a $380 bike shop hybrid, a helmet and a backpack. I added accessories (lights, rack, fenders) as I went along. Your plan is quite doable based on my experience.
Caution is advised when cycling through interchanges with surface streets, but there's no reason to go seven miles out of your way--unless you like the ride. (I regularly extend my commute from 4.5 miles to 16.5, just because.) I have to cross an expressway and a river between home and work. Both are snarly traffic chokepoints. Both can be traversed safely, and I do so twice a day. Granted, they made me very nervous when I started out. I still respect them, but I no longer fear them. Check with your library to see if they have the book, The Art of Cycling: A Guide to Bicycling in 21st-Century America by Robert Hurst (originally published as The Art of Urban Cycling: Lessons From the Streets). It's chock-full of tips and techniques to keep you safe when cycling with traffic. PS: Don't sweat your first bike purchase, especially not since you're already planning to replace it in a few months. The purpose of your first bike is to teach you what you want and need in your second bike. Therefore, there can never be a "right" first bike. Just find something you can afford, is reasonably comfortable and isn't likely to fall apart this year. Then let it teach you. |
Originally Posted by Fechten
(Post 10751501)
I live less than a mile from work, but due to being on opposite sides of an interstate it looks like the safest route is about 15 miles (nearest overpass that doesn't have on or off ramps). The area where I live is fairly flat, with the largest change in elevation being the overpass itself.
As for what bike you use, if you're constrained by money at the moment I recommend just borrowing one. Did you have a bike when you were a teenager? Is it still in your parents' garage? Get them to ship it to you. |
15 miles for a 1 mile ride? Maybe I am missing something but you do realize it is perfectly legal to ride on non access controlled roads. In fact it is illegal in most placed for adults to ride on "side walks".
Find us a map of the close bridges you are concerned with crossing that have hwy access ramps. Google will give you a ling in the upper right corner of the map. Let us take a look at them to see if they look unusually dangerous for some reason. |
Looking around at the Richmond CL. MAN you have some good stuff in your area!
How tall are you? Male? SMOKING DEAL! http://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/1718155977.html Looks like a 58cm 3.0 Crit frame R500 or R600 around 1990 good for somebody around 5'8" 5'10" Thats a Entry level Critirium race bike. If it is a R600 That could easlily be flipped for $300 if it is in as good of shape as lit looks. Even better http://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/1716410336.html Thats $250 in good shape and If you like more upright. This is a Good bike ready to comute, very Fair starting price, Offer them around $275 see if they will meet you at $300 http://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/1714231170.html Honestly thats a pretty new bike. the price is decent if they hold to it. Fair if it has been maintained. http://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/1712943572.html Fair price on a good vintage Fuji. http://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/1712523380.html Get it tuned up. Price a bit hi but DelRays ride great. Had one just like it. Looks like a 84. http://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/1711640433.html Bike GOD (RIP Sheldon) website if you want to learn. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/ |
Another vote in with the others. At the very least, buy a used bike from a bike shop. At least they will have gone over it and adjusted everything properly.
For a one mile commute, any bike will be fast enough. You won't even have a chance to work up a sweat. It sounds like you're kind of out in the sticks, so a road bike is probably a good choice. You will need to put aside $30-50 for a good lock (U-lock + cable) and a helmet. ($40 min.) |
Originally Posted by Grim
(Post 10751874)
15 miles for a 1 mile ride? Maybe I am missing something but you do realize it is perfectly legal to ride on non access controlled roads. In fact it is illegal in most placed for adults to ride on "side walks".
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Originally Posted by jagged
(Post 10751867)
Well, that sucks. Are you sure that is the only route? Google Maps, with satellite view, can be a great way to scope out alternate routes. Also, remember that any underpass or overpass should do; you don't need a sidewalk. (You know that sidewalks are death traps for bikes, right?)
As for what bike you use, if you're constrained by money at the moment I recommend just borrowing one. Did you have a bike when you were a teenager? Is it still in your parents' garage? Get them to ship it to you.
Originally Posted by Grim
(Post 10751972)
Looking around at the Richmond CL. MAN you have some good stuff in your area!
http://norfolk.craigslist.org/ There were some new postings today, and some look like possibilities! I'll also be visiting the local bike shops in the next week, so I'll see if maybe there's some last years stock or something that they might be wanting to move. |
Yep, can't go wrong with a decent vintage bike that suits your needs gotten at fair price or better. Later, if you determine you need something a little different, you can upgrade/modify it, or get all your money out and maybe more by re-selling it. Take a look at the C&V (classic & vintage) forum here http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdispl...lassic-Vintage ; lots of know how to be gleaned about choosing and caring for a vintage bike.
Along with mountain bikes, you should consider touring and "sport-touring" road bikes; they are emminently suited for on-road commuting: fast & light, comfortable, and typically have attachment points for fenders and racks (as compared to more single purpose road quasi-racing bikes). The more serious touring models will have cantilever brakes, a real plus for a laden bike and/or in wet conditions. |
Originally Posted by Grim
(Post 10751874)
15 miles for a 1 mile ride? Maybe I am missing something but you do realize it is perfectly legal to ride on non access controlled roads. In fact it is illegal in most placed for adults to ride on "side walks".
Find us a map of the close bridges you are concerned with crossing that have hwy access ramps. Google will give you a ling in the upper right corner of the map. Let us take a look at them to see if they look unusually dangerous for some reason. This is the overpass that has me the most concerned: http://www.google.com/maps?f=q&sourc...h&z=16&layer=t My driving route takes me on Greenbrier Parkway over I-64. But like I said, I don't mind an hour commute. I'm getting an hour in at the gym every day, so if I can combine exercise and commute in one, I figure I save a little time somewhere. ;) I found a pretty nice route that's along shared paths and through neighborhoods, so if I do eventually work up the nerve to go over the overpass, I'll have an alternate route for nice days when I want to wander a bit. How tall are you? Male? |
Originally Posted by tsl
(Post 10751657)
I started four years ago with a $380 bike shop hybrid, a helmet and a backpack. I added accessories (lights, rack, fenders) as I went along. Your plan is quite doable based on my experience.
Caution is advised when cycling through interchanges with surface streets, but there's no reason to go seven miles out of your way--unless you like the ride. (I regularly extend my commute from 4.5 miles to 16.5, just because.) I have to cross an expressway and a river between home and work. Both are snarly traffic chokepoints. Both can be traversed safely, and I do so twice a day. Granted, they made me very nervous when I started out. I still respect them, but I no longer fear them. Check with your library to see if they have the book, The Art of Cycling: A Guide to Bicycling in 21st-Century America by Robert Hurst (originally published as The Art of Urban Cycling: Lessons From the Streets). It's chock-full of tips and techniques to keep you safe when cycling with traffic. PS: Don't sweat your first bike purchase, especially not since you're already planning to replace it in a few months. The purpose of your first bike is to teach you what you want and need in your second bike. Therefore, there can never be a "right" first bike. Just find something you can afford, is reasonably comfortable and isn't likely to fall apart this year. Then let it teach you. I don't know your route and I would guess few posting here would. Sometimes a route is personal, something you feel comfortable with, something you enjoy riding. |
Originally Posted by gerv
(Post 10752738)
Good advice. I would add: do you the route you feel safest and most comfortable with -- even if 15 miles. But read the book, get good experience under you belt and try to understand how you might navigate a shorter route. Perhaps try it early in the morning, or some other low-traffic time, just to see what it feels like.
I don't know your route and I would guess few posting here would. Sometimes a route is personal, something you feel comfortable with, something you enjoy riding. |
Since you live less than a mile from work and you said you're short on funds, how about just walking to work then? One mile is a 15-30 min walk.
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Originally Posted by Fechten
(Post 10752663)
This is the overpass that has me the most concerned:
http://www.google.com/maps?f=q&sourc...h&z=16&layer=t My driving route takes me on Greenbrier Parkway over I-64. |
Sounds like she's looking for an excuse to bike; GREAT! Why don't you take the 15 mile route that you feel comfortable with, and when you're running late, go over the interstate?
It doesn't look like you're going on the expressway, just crossing over the bridge that spans it. Just be alert when you do and look for the safest route, like akohekohe suggested. Did you decide what to do with regards to the bike yet? |
15 miles (is this x2) is a fair way so you need an efficient, practical bike, the basic all-rounder.
Some of the sportier hybrids or flat-bar road bikes are good. If road style drop-bars dont scare you off, there are some viable commuter road bikes. A few pointers: 1. Avoid any suspension, you really dont need it and it adds weight and complication. 2. Have an idea of the largest tyre width you will use. On normal road, this is probably 32mm but in winter or on tracks and trails, it could be wider. Road-bike style commuters do it on 25 or 28mm with no problems. On MTB wheels, 1.5" is a good width for the road. Many bikes have limits to the widest tyre they can take. 3. Make sure the bike has threaded eyelets to accept luggage rack and fenders. 4. Pick a bike shop that can help you get the correct size in a suitable style. |
Originally Posted by akohekohe
(Post 10753030)
Well I can certainly understand why you feel intimidated by this intersection. I'm glad you posted it though because very often the devil is in the details. I have a similar intersection I occasionally cross (although not on my commute). At first I simply stayed to the right side of the through lane letting the cars turning onto the highway off ramp pass me on the right and held that position across until I cleared all the on and off ramps. I did this safely enough many times but it was always a bit unnerving so I finally asked someone who has to commute the intersection regularly what they did and they told me they got over onto the left shoulder before the road gets to the first off ramp and then stayed on the left shoulder all the way across the bridge, getting back over to the right side after the last off ramp. I was skeptical but it really works quite well. This avoids all the conflicts at the on and off ramps. It may mean that you will have to stop and wait for a break in traffic to get over to the left shoulder and back but it looks like you've got some traffic signals that should provide the gaps at each end of the bridge so I don't think that should be a problem for you. If you are wondering if this is legal, fortunately Virginia law has a provision that allows you to ride on the left shoulder of a one-way street and since the Greenbrier Parkway is a divided highway at the I64 bridge the Parkway is technically two one way road ways (one in each direction) at that point so riding on the left shoulder there is perfectly legal. It looks to me from the satellite image that the left shoulder is wide enough for a bicycle but obviously I can't tell for sure. You can still legally ride on the left side even if you are into the lane a bit and it is probably still a better strategy than staying on the right but it should be more comfortable to just have the shoulder to yourself. I think you will find this is very doable. Let us know if you give this a try.
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Originally Posted by JeremyZ
(Post 10753218)
Sounds like she's looking for an excuse to bike; GREAT! Why don't you take the 15 mile route that you feel comfortable with, and when you're running late, go over the interstate?
It doesn't look like you're going on the expressway, just crossing over the bridge that spans it. Just be alert when you do and look for the safest route, like akohekohe suggested. Did you decide what to do with regards to the bike yet?
Originally Posted by MichaelW
(Post 10753271)
15 miles (is this x2) is a fair way so you need an efficient, practical bike, the basic all-rounder.
Some of the sportier hybrids or flat-bar road bikes are good. If road style drop-bars dont scare you off, there are some viable commuter road bikes. A few pointers: 1. Avoid any suspension, you really dont need it and it adds weight and complication. 2. Have an idea of the largest tyre width you will use. On normal road, this is probably 32mm but in winter or on tracks and trails, it could be wider. Road-bike style commuters do it on 25 or 28mm with no problems. On MTB wheels, 1.5" is a good width for the road. Many bikes have limits to the widest tyre they can take. 3. Make sure the bike has threaded eyelets to accept luggage rack and fenders. 4. Pick a bike shop that can help you get the correct size in a suitable style. |
Full suspension bikes are typically for REALLY rough offroad. Like mountain biking in the mountains. Front suspension is getting more popular on bike path bikes, but I think that's kind of a waste; they're usually pretty smooth.
Being a woman, you have one less thing to worry about with drop bars.; no frank 'n beans in the way down there. The only thing to consider is weight on your wrists and the kink in your neck from looking up. Can you cope with that for more efficiency? One other thing to think about is that the more weight is on your wrists, the less is on your butt & back. It's always a delicate balance. A good mix might be drop bars, but just not too low or far forward with relation to the seat. If you buy drop bars & decide you made a mistake, you can always go Mexican-style and turn them upside down for a nice upright ride! :) |
Totally true. I know that the diamond design of the traditional "men's" bike is for strength, but it always seemed a little sinister to put the boys so close to immenient peril.
I'd certainly be willing to try the drop-bars. When I used to have my bike I remember that the worst part was always that my lower back wound up pretty stiff at the end of a ride. Now, that may very well have been because I used to be in a lot worse shape than I am now, but I am sitting on my butt all day at work so avoiding another opportunity to put more pressure on my back might be a good thing! |
http://norfolk.craigslist.org/bik/1719746498.html
If it doesn't fit the racks and bags are worth the price and resell the bike again. |
Originally Posted by dedhed
(Post 10753444)
http://norfolk.craigslist.org/bik/1719746498.html
If it doesn't fit the racks and bags are worth the price and resell the bike again. |
Originally Posted by Fechten
(Post 10753325)
I have to admit that I had always been a tad intimidated by drop-bars, but after reading a bit more about them, I have to say I'm open to the idea.
Most drop bar bike don't come with that extra brake lever but it can be install any time. REI quoted me about $60-&70 dollar to install. If you are considering a drop bar but hate the brake lever position or the riding position because of the brake lever, then talk to your LBS about this option. Better yet, test ride a bike with this (such as a Fuji Newest or Specialise Tricross) and see how you like it. |
Originally Posted by Fechten
(Post 10752663)
I did take a look at the bike laws in my area, because I wasn't sure about the legality of it. According to the Virginia Department of Transportation, it is legal to ride on sidewalks around here unless prohibited by local laws (there's only one restricted street in my area that I could find).
This is the overpass that has me the most concerned: http://www.google.com/maps?f=q&sourc...h&z=16&layer=t My driving route takes me on Greenbrier Parkway over I-64. But like I said, I don't mind an hour commute. I'm getting an hour in at the gym every day, so if I can combine exercise and commute in one, I figure I save a little time somewhere. ;) I found a pretty nice route that's along shared paths and through neighborhoods, so if I do eventually work up the nerve to go over the overpass, I'll have an alternate route for nice days when I want to wander a bit. Female and 5'6". Now look at that rail spur to the left of the interchange. The fist spur above 64 becomes a road. What is the possibility running down the side of that spur under 64? That would let you run through the buisness complex and use a light to cross Greenbriar on Woodlake. A hybrid like the Buzz I posted would be fine on that road if there is a packed path leading becide the rail line. You do seem to have a shortage for Hybrids in your are. Some really good deals on road bikes though. WOW What a DEAL! Loaded and ready to comute! That is one of the finest touring bikes of the early 80's. Right in there with the Miyata 600-1000's and Treks. Bomb proof 40spoke back wheel. http://norfolk.craigslist.org/bik/1719746498.html I have one of those. GREAT bike! That looks like a 52-54cm. You might have enough leg for it if you like the road bike style better then a Hybrid. It has 27x1 1/4 tires (roughly a 32mm wide tire) It will do good on packed trails if that Rail spur is viable. If you can flat foot that bike with a 2-3 fingers between your pubic bone and the top bar you can ride it. http://classicfuji.com/1984_13_Touri...esIII_Page.htm $30 worth of fenders and you would be there. If nothing else try to buy that for the bags if is too big. Relist it for $200 and let it go for the first offer over $160 and make a little coin on that one. The Schwinn at the bottom is one of their under appreciated bikes. Thats a really good price. I resold one of those for $150. That bike was built in Japan by Panasonic. http://norfolk.craigslist.org/bik/1711675468.html Rockhoppers are good bikes. I normally do not like suspension for riding on the road but that is one of the few bikes I currently see in the style I think you may be interested in. This is a late 90's if not newer. http://norfolk.craigslist.org/bik/1711114943.html I would let that one sit for a another week and see if it is still available and offer then $200. MAKE SURE THE SHIFTERS WORK PERFECT. Shifters like that tend to hang as the grease dries out with age. A lot of times you can flush them with WD40 and get them working but use it as leverage for the price if they hang. $20 and $30 installation you can get them replaced with Grip shifts from most bike stores. Little down the line from the hopper but a decent bike. http://norfolk.craigslist.org/bik/1710153351.html Good price same deal with the shifters. http://norfolk.craigslist.org/bik/1709698036.html Decent Hybrid with tires biased for the road. http://norfolk.craigslist.org/bik/1705607170.html WOW! OMG I WANT! This Nice fixer upper if the frame and not rusted. http://norfolk.craigslist.org/bik/1697566570.html Damn shame somebody let it fall into such disrepair. I'd buy that in a heart beat to fix and flip or give to my wife. Bridgstones were very nice and that bike has a kick ass head badge . Grant from Rivendell (Nice $$$$ http://www.rivbike.com/ ) use to work there and that may have been when he was there making that a "poor mans (or ladys in this case) Rivendell". Set of Dove handle bars and you basically have a Betty Foy. Grant frequents the site BTW ;) If you jump on that That bike needs a $100 tune up (full lube and cables), tires (get Pasela's for $30 each) and look at a Terry Saddle ($50 on sale at Performance bike). If you want to make it into the Riv Betty then $40 for bars and $40 or so for brake levers. That honestly would make a wonderful bike. I wish I was close enough to come grab it. You might want to hit the classic and vintage forum and see if there is a member in the area that might take on that as a project for you if you like it. That would put you close to your $300 budget. |
Wow, thanks for the feedback on those, Grim! I'm at work ATM, but I'll defenitely start calling around on some of these once I'm off. I've noticed that the periodic Schwinn road bike pops up with some regularity, so I'll keep my eye out for those. I was a little wary about Craigslist since I'm not the most well versed in bikes, but if a local shop can do a tune up on these, that defenitely makes me feel better about going for them! :)
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At work ! What are you doing surfing BF? :)
Here's a site with good info on older used bikes, buying, fixing etc. Randy jawa does a good job. It'll keep you busy for a few hours. You might also pop into Classic & Vintage if you buy a vintage bike. Everyone there loves to help out keeping old iron on the road. http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/ |
Welcome to bike commuting! Plenty of good comments on bikes, I'll try to address the route. The VDOT bicycling pages summarize the info on where you can/can't ride. Limited access roads are OUT, however 50mph roads (WITH a well-maintained shoulder, or slightly slower roads with a wide curb lane) are fine. Many people in NoVA use the Fairfax County Parkway /Rt 7700 shoulder, and I frankly think it's safer than the poorly-maintained side MUP, especially where it crosses 2 major side roads and the Dulles Toll Rd on/off ramps.
Looking at your map, how are the crossings to either side of Greenbrier Pkwy (the Battlefield Blvd or Indian River Rd overpasses)? Looking at the google maps overhead image, while there is a decent-looking shoulder on the overpass, the approaches and rest of the roadway appears to lack any shoulder of substance (typical VDOT design flaw, and it makes any backup due to accident or disabled vehicle MUCH worse). Are there any bus routes in your area you could use to cross I64? I looked into this when I thought I'd have to be commuting through an area where the most direct route crossed a major highway and is unbikeable. Alternates added several miles to an already longish ride, so I was seriously considering doing bike-bus-bike. I'd suggest using tires known for puncture resistance as busy roads often have a lot of debris on the sides/shoulders. Regardless, carry replacement tubes (at least 2) and tools/pump so you can self-recover from 2 flats (in case you don't remove what caused it on the 1st tube!) and practice changing a tube using ONLY what you carry on the bike. And it sounds silly, but mount a decent size red reflector on the back (for VDOT-compliance) and consider running a strobe-style taillight (Planet Bike Superflash or clones) and bright clothes or vest for increased DAYTIME visibility. A mirror (helmet or sunglass mounted) is excellent for easily checking what's overtaking you, especially when riding near fast-moving traffic. |
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