anniegrmbl

I'm a commuter looking at a new bike, less than 800 Canadian, ideally. I have a cheap, serviceable bike that I've commuted on for the last year, and I'm looking for something faster and better. Several people have mentioned that they prefer cyclocross bikes over hybrids for commuting. Forgive the newbie question, but why?

JeremyZ

They're faster and still durable enough to handle commuting. Since you're hunched over more, I don't get flattened as much by wind either.

I think it depends a lot on the commute. My city commuter bike is loads more comfortable for my commute, and since it is so short, the extra speed gained is not worth the discomfort.

If you get a cyclocross bike, get it as a supplement to your hybrid, not a replacement. Hybrids are still nice.

wunderkind

Try both. Come back and report. Only your body can tell whether you prefer an upright riding or a hunch over position.

Seattle Forrest

I like CX for commuting for all of the reasons JeremyZ said. I won't bore you repeating them.

RT

I have one of each, and I ride them on different days depending on my mood. Either of the two can be made to fit more aggressively or more upright. If this is strictly for a commute and not racing, get a hybrid. Less expensive, and you avoid cantilever brakes. If you get tired of the flat bar, converting to a drop bar on the hybrid is not at all difficult or expensive.

Exhibit A: A former Fuji hybrid. Brake levers ($22), bar end shifters ($60), handlebar ($22), removed granny ring, creating a 52-42 crank (free). This bike (originally $299) is faster than my new Fuji Cross Comp ($799 with 105 level components).

gerv 

Whether you will like the hybrid or the CX bike is up to you really. Some people prefer the upright ride, some prefer the low profile.

I started with a hybrid and graduated to a touring bike.

Overall, I like the lower profile... easier to ride in the wind, better power, usually faster, often better components out of the box.

But I know others who don't see it my way.

waynesworld

That Fuji is awesome! What do you think makes it faster than your new bike?

groovestew

Agreed.

A properly set up and well fitting CX bike should still be comfortable. I am very comfortable on my cross bike and use it for long distance rides (>100km). Plus, the drop bars will give you more hand positions than a typical stock flat bar, so you can go between sitting more upright and more aero, and still be comfortable in either position.

A Kona Jake is a decent bike, a bit more than your target price range, but if you can find a sale this fall or last year's model, it should be around the price you're looking for.

cyccommute 

I don't own a hybrid. If I'm going to ride something with flat bars, it's going to be a mountain bike...sans slicks because you never know when a bit of dirt trail will call you. I do own a touring bike and a cross bike. The cross bike is okay but has some issues with loads. I'd never use it with panniers because of the short rear end and that short rear end can lead to some handling issues if I've got a bit more than usual in the trunk bag. It's only marginally lighter than my touring bike. The main reason I got it was because
1. I wanted something new
2. It was orange
3. It wasn't black (at that point all of my bike were either black or white. I've since expanded and now all of my bikes are black or white or silver. And an orange one.)

It's a zippy bike but a whole lot more so than my Cannondale touring bike.

The touring bike, on the other hand, is more like a hybrid with drop bars. It's rugged, can carry a ton of stuff and isn't that slow without a load. It can also handle some pretty gnarly terrain comfortably. Here it is on the Katy Trail.



Cross bikes are a bit more expensive than hybrids too. You can find good hybrids at or even below your budget. There are a few cross bikes at your price point but not many. They are usually $200 more.

RT

This project was my indoctrination into the world of wrenching, and I am now obsessed with it Weight loss on the bike were wheels (Vuelta Corsa HD), tires (700x23 Michelin Orium), drop bars with lighter shifters and brake levers, and removal of one ring. I'm no weight weenie, but it all adds up. I am debating whether it would be worth it to swap out the fork for a Winwood Dusty cross/hybrid fork to take the buzz out of the road. I'd lose another pound there.

I've been commuting by bike for many years, and this bike is by far the most comfortable and smoothest riding, even with the CroMo fork. The reason it is faster than the cyclo bike is because the big ring is larger (52t>46t) making me faster down hills, and the small ring is bigger (42t>36t), making me work harder up hills.

JeremyZ

You're wrong here Todd. It is definitely the red bar tape that makes it faster.

Oh, and it is OK to come out of the closet. You are indeed a weight weenie. You're counting the weight of removing one chainring, fer cryin' out loud. There's nothing wrong with being a weight weenie if you're already slim enough that making your bike lighter is the only way left to drop lose weight. I'm not at that point yet. So, how slim are you, Mr. Weight Weenie?

tjspiel

Very nice bike, but you obviously come from the same school of upgrade justification that I do. Fess up. Those wheels and tires weren't free were they?

My guess is that by the time you add up every penny you spent on that beauty you're less than $100 away from the cost of your Cross Comp. And bar ends don't exactly compare to 105. In fact your Cross Comp has better components all round.

While you can put drops on a bike fairly inexpensively, going to STI is going to cost you. If that's what you want, you're better off buying a cross bike from the get go.

Loose Chain

Cross bikes are generally a more aggressive bicycle than a hybrid. You will sit one more leaned over. Some people are not really looking for an upright bicycle nor do many people think being leaned over is uncomfortable and is in fact preferred by many experienced cyclist. The fitter you are, the more likely you are to enjoy a drop bar bike.

My Cross Check certainly allows me to sit more upright than my Italian race bikes but not anything like a hybrid. If you want the bars up above the saddle and a flat bar then a cross might not be the best choice.

This is a general statement, exceptions are always possible or likely.

RT

I'll be glad to prove you wrong :-) The Wheels were $99 on KILLER sale at Nashbar about a year and a half ago. For some reason the price is now stuck around $199. The tires were $10.99/each on sale at my local/online shop, and they're only $22 regularly. The stem was $19, the bars were $20, the saddle is from my old Giant MTB (it's comfortable for the commute), the levers were $22, the barcons $60. Ok, $265, not $200.

Also consider that Performance was giving away the 2009 Fuji Cross Comps at $799 before 10% team discount and then double points.

This bike still rocks, and although they are bar end shifters, the ARE Ultegra STI was not an option as I would have then had to swap out the brakes, which, with the hybrid fork, was not as easy or cheap. I'm almost considering selling the Cross Comp and using the money to build a new bike. It's so much damn fun.

waynesworld

You still didn't mention the cost of that red bar tape. That had to be at least another $250

frpax

I regularly commute with one of several bikes.

One is a FAT tire (2.5 inches) hybrid with drop bars as low as I can get them and the saddle as high as I can get it, for a more "road like" riding position.
The others are pure road bikes.

I prefer the road bikes, because
A. I'm in a more aerodynamic riding position
B. The bikes are lighter

I considered getting a 'cross bike, but have since changed my mind, as it would not do any better of a job than the ones I have.

RT

Ah yes - the price we pay to go fast. Came from my cowhorned MTB, so free, or $4.99 depreciated over 10 months.

Grim

Cyclo for sure between the original choices.

Typical differences in multi gear bikes as I see it and my personal preference at the bottom after 2 solid years of commuting and starting out like you and swapping out a few bikes along the way to find what I really like.

Hybrid = more upright and the negative is more wind resistance and less hand postilions with straight or riser bars. Geared more like a mountain bike so they motor up hills with little effort. Relaxed ride a bit sluggish in the handling department. Longer chain stays like a touring bike to make them very predictable and docile. 11-34 cassettes the norm. Good bike for putting around but not going to be all that fast.

Urban= This is really a new label and often Urban bikes get lumped in with Hybrids. The major difference is Urban bikes tend to be straight bar for a more road bike riding postion, BB tends to be somewhere between a Mountain and touring. Its built to be fast like a sport road bike without the drop bars. Most seem to have gearing around 50 or so teeth on the big ring so they will move at a good clip. Most have triples for the hills or the small ring is around 34-36. Cassette is normally around 11-28. Disc brakes really starting to be the norm making them a really good wet weather bike.

Cross bike= Gearing for a little more speed. Frame will accept lager tires. More of a sport road to race bike riding postion. The BB is higher then a road bike since the bike is built with some off road use in mind. This makes for a natural tendency for the seat to bar height to be greater putting the rider in a bit more of a tight crouch closer to a racing bike. 11-28 cassette seems to be the norm with a tipple crank around 48,36,28 Short wheel base makes it sporty of a ride.

Touring Bike= Long wheel base that makes loading it easier but does make the bike sluggish in the handling department. Handle larger tires making it reasonably capable if you get it off pavement but it is no mountain bike. BB is low like a road bike to keep CG low. Bar to seat height is usually close to the same making for a relaxed riding position in the tops and hoods but still have the drops if you are fighting the wind. Built to handle a load. Stronger frames, wheels and components. Gearing is all over the place. Mountain tripples are normal. 44 oir 42 big ring and common on touring bikes. But you also see a lot of 50 tooth big rings as well on some brands. Usually see something like an 11-34 cassette For loaded touring cranks around 42,32,22 or 44,34,26 compact triples is not bad and a lot of touring bikes come with them.

Sport Road bike= Good general bike made fore general riding and club rides. BB is lower then Cross and Hybrid making for a lower CG and closer bar to seat height. Not a tight race postion but not as upright as a touring bike. Limited tires sizes usually under 32mm. Most will take fenders and racks but more likely to have heel strike over a touring bike because of the shorter chain stays. Cassette on modern sport is around 11-24. Double Cranks trend to 34-50 or 36-52 or 42-52. Tires rance from 700x 23-27 1/4

Race, Crit bike= thin tires, bars set low for maximum speed. Short chain stays make them darty. They are built for speed and nothing else. Cassettes are usualy 11-22(24) with 52 or larger big rings. 40-52 and 39-53 combination seem to be popular of late on the cranks They use to be almost all 42-52's but the 39 helps on the hills with the 22 out

Personally I find I gravitate to the Touring bikes.

I was commuting on a M400 Rigid Cannondale Mountain bike that was set up with road biased tires and more like a urban bike. Eventually trekking bars were added when the single hand position of the straight bars and the sky high seat because of the high BB to get a proper road riding position started wearing me out when I tried to do long 20mile rides. The bars, sky high seat and Compact cranks is what finally killed it for me as a commuter and I sought out a drop bar road biased bike.

After weighing my needs a Touring bike seemed to fit them the best after I grw tired of the straight bars..

I have two for my main commuters set up differently depending on the need. That was really an accident. My ideal size would be a 61cm. I happened on a 58 t700 on CL and a year later a 63cm showed up on CL. Didn't have the heart to get rid of the 58.

The riding position on the touring frames is more upright and easier on the back and neck then a Mountain but not as upright as the hybrid. For commuting so the longer frame makes it easy to load up the panniers with my laptop, Jackets etc. Not dealing with the weight of fully loaded touring I have swapped the cranks on both my T700's to more biased biased gearing (50/39/30 on the 98 and 48/36/26 on the 95) but I do have the compacts ready to install when I get the hunger to tour.

I find for commuting I like a 48-50 big ring for the long flats and down hills where I push up to near 30mph. 36-38 middle ring is just a really good gear for me for general riding with some gear and low enough to handle most hills and high enough that I can keep up a good pace on the flats with a 80-90RPM cadence I rarely find the need to drop off the 36. I am currently running a 11-28 cassette on both. They both ended up being upgraded to 9speed STI. I basically geared it like a urban bike.

The 95 t700 58cm is a bit small for me. Ideally I would ride a 61 but C-Dale skipped 60cm a lot of years on their touring bikes forcing buyers to adjust with seat and stems. I had it more like a Cross bike but now it is trending to somewhere between a cross and urban once it gets the 28's on its next tire change. It is becoming More of the truck between the two. When I got the 98 the 95 was set up for dry weather and weekend rides with the buds that I didn't need to pull off the commuting gear. More like a Urban bike with drops. I may throw a set of dirt drops I just came up with that have bar end shifters on it soon and I think I may add fenders and make it more of my wet weather/winter bike.


My 98 T700 63 cm is trending more like a Randonneur and about to go to a handle bar bag, Brooks honey tape to match the seat and loose the rear rack and be kept as a light weight dry weather (because of the leather bar tape and seat) bike. Relaxed position because of the high 46cm wide bars on it and comfortable to ride long distance when you don't need to carry a big load. Hopefully a hub generator before fall and I will set that up on a separate wheel that I can swap back and forth between both bikes as needed.

Banzai

"Hybrid" bikes are such a mixed bag, it's hard to tell. It's really a marketing term thrown at consumers who think "hybrid...that sounds like just what I need!".

Some are basically MTBs with slicks. Some are more like road bikes with flat bars. Some are more purposefully designed - road bikes with flat bars where the front end is "stretched" to more MTB-like front-center proportions to make the flat bar reach appropriate: In those cases a drop bar conversion will never really work.

I started with a flat bar hybrid. Like 90% of the new posters on this board, it wasn't long until I wanted drops. It wasn't long after I converted (expensively) that I realized it was never going to be quite right, and I sold the bike to make room for both a fast road racer, and a cx/utility bike - all with (obviously) appropriate geometry for drop bars.

TuckamoreDew

Are you looking for a NEW bike or just one that's new to you? Entry level new 2010 CX bikes seem to around $1100 Canadian. The Specialized Tricross Triple and the Kona Jake are both about that price. You might be able to get one of last year's models at a discounted price, though. On the other hand should LOTS of options in your price range for good quality hybrids.

I just switched this spring to a used 2008 Kona Jake after using a cheap hybrid commuter for the past 3 years. It is lighter and zippier than my old bike and I'm really enjoying it. It also handles rough roads and dirt bike paths very well. My only complaint is that the gearing makes it less useful as a utility bike for hauling loads than my old hybrid. That's an easy fix though and I might put a new cassette on it later this summer.

anniegrmbl

Super helpful info, Grim. Really appreciate the responses.

Tuckamore, just new to me, really. I've been scanning craigslist for the last few weeks, and strangely very little has come up that seems right for me. lots of mountain bikes for sale around here.

I tried a bunch of bikes over the weekend, including a friend's road bike, and I don't feel really comfortable with the drop bars, although it sure was fun to ride on a long, unimpeded road. my commute means I stop and go a lot, and rarely go that fast - there' s a fair amount of traffic and pedestrian dodging and I didn't feel very in control with the drop bars, though maybe that's just a matter of a few weeks riding to adjust to them.

idiotekniQues

agreed. i don't think it is fair to lump commuting into one big category. some people are commuting in rural areas, some suburban, some urban to very urban.

for riding in nyc, very urban, there are a ton of quick decisive movements as you mentioned you have in vancouver, from potholes to pedestrians to cars, and those lend themselves better to flat bar riding. mountain bikers face having to make quick and rapid changes of direction, and they use flat bars. they also have to really see the terrain in front and around them, again a flat bar stance works out better for this as well. there is no 100% rule, as some folks are pretty nimble with a different stance, but by and large for these types of situations, from what i have read and seen, a flat bar aggressive stance with a shorter wheelbase and nice large 29'er tires that roll over street obstacles, works better IMO. but as always, one size does not fit all but i think it worthy to think of these things.