New job. New security issues for my bike...
#1
Thread Starter
This town needs an enema.
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 794
Likes: 0
From: Huntington Beach, Ca.
Bikes: Bridgestone 400
New job. New security issues for my bike...
What is the best option for locking up a bike when using a multi-lock system? What do you use?
Is is it better to use two u-locks? To change it up with cable locks and u-locks? Throw a chain and a cheaper lock in for good measure?
And if you are allowed to keep your locks locked up on the rack at work, do you? Or do you haul the lock(s) with you everywhere?
I work in a low-crime area but it is nestled up to an area know for bike theft. Most thefts meet the statistics for something being not locked up or only locked with a leather belt or something stupid like that...but I would prefer to be on the overkill side...
Is is it better to use two u-locks? To change it up with cable locks and u-locks? Throw a chain and a cheaper lock in for good measure?
And if you are allowed to keep your locks locked up on the rack at work, do you? Or do you haul the lock(s) with you everywhere?
I work in a low-crime area but it is nestled up to an area know for bike theft. Most thefts meet the statistics for something being not locked up or only locked with a leather belt or something stupid like that...but I would prefer to be on the overkill side...
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 450
Likes: 4
I lock up with two quality u-locks, one thru rear triangle of the frame, around the tire per a la Sheldon, other goes around the frame itself, third lock is a fat cable thru front wheel and frame, fourth lock - cable, secures the saddle to frame. If I feel paranoid that day, I might throw in another chain thru frame and front wheel. So far, it proved to be working. And all of the locks go with me, always. Overkill? Maybe, but better that then to have the bike go missing. And I do not lock it to a rack, not that one exists, it's locked to steel fence, an industrial steel fence, that would take at least 10 min to cut each link of the fence with hand tools. And it is locked in more then 3 points to the fence, so it would take at least half an hour of cutting and sweating to take it, and it is a good thing that thieves are generally lazy. So they just might pick up some of the other bikes. That are also locked nearby. With a single thin cable lock. Thru the frame only. With QR wheels.
#3
The Professor
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 899
Likes: 7
From: Center Sandwich, New Hampshire
Bikes: Alex Moulton Double Pylon, Surly Big Dummy, Alex Moulton GT, AZUB TiFly
OP: From your question I gather you are going to lock the bike to a rack at work. Some questions that will help us advise you better: What type of rack? Is the rack outdoors or indoors? Are there usually other bicycles parked in the rack as well or will yours be the only one? Is it visible from the street? Is it where people can see it? Is vandalism an issue or is the concern just theft? How far is the commute?
#4
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,077
Likes: 4
From: Cary, NC
Bikes: 1983 Trek 500, 2002 Lemond Zurich, 2023 Litespeed Watia
I've had thieves attack my cable locks and lightweight chains, but I've never seen anyone mess with my U-locks. This includes several years parking at a university. Serious bike thieves can take out U-locks but there aren't many such thieves where I live, and fewer still near where I normally park outdoors, when I do.
I use locking wheel skewers so I don't have to mess with locking the wheels with a cable.
If I know a suitable rack will be present at my destination I bring my U-lock. If I'll be temporarily parking somewhere that may not have a good rack or post I'll bring my heavy cable.
I use locking wheel skewers so I don't have to mess with locking the wheels with a cable.
If I know a suitable rack will be present at my destination I bring my U-lock. If I'll be temporarily parking somewhere that may not have a good rack or post I'll bring my heavy cable.
#5
Two of the most popular tools of the trade are large bolt cutters for cutting cable and chains and scissor jacks for busting open U-locks. I would use a U-lock and a good cable lock because the thief would have to carry two tools of the trade to steal my bike.
#6
I am a caffine girl
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,815
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area
Bikes: 2012 Stumpjumper FSR Comp...2010 Scott CR1 CF...2007 Novara FS Float2.0...2009 Specialized Hardrock Disc...2009 Schwinn Le Tour GSr
Why a NY chain and Ulock? Because the only way to get through a ulock is either pry bar, jack, or grinder. Of the three tools, only the grinder is an efficient tool to break a NY chain with those mini lock that comes with it. So pretty much the thieve must use a grinder to steal your bike. Also he will have to cut twice because you have two locks. In this setup, forget the cable. The chain will replace that and beside, the same tool for cutting the chain can cut the cable but not so easily the other way around.
#7
Thread Starter
This town needs an enema.
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 794
Likes: 0
From: Huntington Beach, Ca.
Bikes: Bridgestone 400
OP: From your question I gather you are going to lock the bike to a rack at work. Some questions that will help us advise you better: What type of rack? Is the rack outdoors or indoors? Are there usually other bicycles parked in the rack as well or will yours be the only one? Is it visible from the street? Is it where people can see it? Is vandalism an issue or is the concern just theft? How far is the commute?
#8
Thread Starter
This town needs an enema.
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 794
Likes: 0
From: Huntington Beach, Ca.
Bikes: Bridgestone 400
Ok, so I may have gone overkill but it puts my paranoia at a minimum:
1. On Guard U-lock with the highest anti-theft ratings I could find. This will go through frame and rear wheel and lock directly to one of the upright areas of the bike rack. This should put it high enough and without enough space to effectively use a breaker bar.
2. Case hardened chain with On Guard padlock to repeat the previous process again.
3. Mini U-lock to lock the front wheel to the frame.
4. Cable to run through the Brooks saddle and hook into the bigger u-lock.
I figure that I am going to give a potential thief the idea to just move along or I am going to give him a serious headache and quite a bit of camera time for the local police and roaming security guards if they really want to get through all of that.
1. On Guard U-lock with the highest anti-theft ratings I could find. This will go through frame and rear wheel and lock directly to one of the upright areas of the bike rack. This should put it high enough and without enough space to effectively use a breaker bar.
2. Case hardened chain with On Guard padlock to repeat the previous process again.
3. Mini U-lock to lock the front wheel to the frame.
4. Cable to run through the Brooks saddle and hook into the bigger u-lock.
I figure that I am going to give a potential thief the idea to just move along or I am going to give him a serious headache and quite a bit of camera time for the local police and roaming security guards if they really want to get through all of that.
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