Hello. I am getting 700x23c wheels and I would like to know what size U-lock I should get to lock both the frame, the rear wheel and the front wheel the with the same U-lock. Or should I just leave the front wheel attached and just lock the frame and the rear wheel and use a cable to lock the front wheel to the U-lock? Thanks!

A mini U-lock is your safest bet so that a thief can't get a jack in there. If used with a cable on the front wheel you will be mostly secure.

Will the mini U-lock be able to lock the frame and the rear wheel at least?

I would use a mini lock that can fit on the triangle and through the wheel of the bike. Then take a cable to the front wheel threaded through the U-lock. For extra security, your can also use locking skewer for the front wheel.

That will depend on your bike. I was able to get a mini u-lock through the frame and the wheel only if I rotate the wheel into the perfect position to do so.

Unless your frame is freakishly big or you have an oddly shaped frame it shouldn't be a problem. You can always get the dimensions of the lock and measure the rear "triangle" on your bike.

Also depends what you will be locking to. I have a difficult time finding things to lock my mini to. Assuming that's what you meant.

Check this out. Just locking the rear wheel to a post or rack between the triangle will suffice.

@waynesworld: that is what I am afraid of that it will be hard for me to find places to lock my bike to.

@BassNotBass: i am really paranoid lol i want to lock practically everything up

I use a mini with 700x38c, so I imagine one would work well for you too. The difference between a "normal" ulock and a mini seems to be the length, not the width. I haven't come across anything I couldn't lock it too. If I did, that's what the cable lock is for

@serra: do you lock your frame and wheel with the same lock?

I'm assuming you're locking the frame and the rear wheel. If so, how does rotating the wheel change anything?

+1 This is the technique that I use. I don't have quick releases on my wheels (don't get flats often enough for it to be an issue), and don't bother locking my front wheel. I'd rethink that if I were in a high crime area, but the commute bike is almost always either at work or in my garage - so locking security is not at the top of the priority list.

I do this and lock the front wheel with the rear wheel.

*sighs*

C'mon... EVERYBODY knows you need TWO u-locks.... a mini to lock up with and a big one to whack cagers with! Sheesh.

Yeah most of the time. It doesn't go around the vertical tube, but I can usually rotate it a bit so that it fits around the horizontal bar connecting to the back wheel. (there must be a name for that) Anyway, it is tight, but that's why I got it. No way for a thief to get a jack in or leverage. Keep in mind that unless they decided to saw your rear wheel in half, just locking the rear wheel will keep the frame secure as well.

From what I remember of Sheldon (it was sometime in the 80s that we last spoke) I am willing to bet that his statement on the difficulty of cutting the rim and tire was based on experience. I tested his theory with an old dumpster bike and can tell you that it's time and effort not worth spending. It's easier to either break the locks or go look for an easier candidate to steal.

The spoke can get in the way of just a perfect fit or not get the the u-lock on the post. I slip the lock through the rims and the seat stay triangle, but sometime the angle of the u-lock will not slip over the post I am locking onto. Just rotating my wheel a little bit cw/ccw will clear the spoke away from the u-lock and just giving me the correct angle to slip the lock through the post. It's really is a tight fit but doable. Now the bike frame and rear rims are secure by the u-lock and I cable the front wheel.

There are certain post (the one that are leaning from being hit) where no matter how I jiggle the wheel and trying different position on the frame is impossible to lock up. In those cases, I ended just using Sheldon u-locking method.

The one problem I have with Sheldon's u-lock method is, it looks like FAIL. The would-be thief might not realise it actually works, but twist everything out of shape, trying to remove the rear tyre. Or deliberately vandalise the bike.

--J

The tube that opens on top for your seat post is the "seat tube," the tubes that run from the juncture of the top tube and the seat tube to the rear wheel are called the "seat stays," and the ones along which the chain runs are the "chain stays."

Onto the discussion: if I'm riding a bike with QR wheels, it's usually both wheels and the rack in a mini lock; if they're nutted, rear wheel (and seat tube, if I can fit it, seat stay(s), if I can't) and the rack. It's worked so far.

I have the Onguard mini 7. It is sized between a mini and standard ulock and works fine for what I have to lock my bike to.