I picked up a mini u lock today and it came with a 4' cable. It's in onguard 5510. What is the proper way to lock a bike with a mini ulock? With my trek 7.1, the lock will not fit around the front wheel and the frame, back wheel and the seat tubing, it does fit the back wheel and the lower frame, but there is virtually no room for the pole. Is the lock too small or am I overlooking something?

That's the problem with mini-U locks; you are severely limited to what you can lock to, and how you can lock-up. I would assume you can lock somewhere through the frame and use the cable for the wheels.

Here is the step-by-step tutorial for your lock with pics:

https://www.onguardlock.com/wp-conten...sers-Guide.pdf

And here's the venerable Sheldon Brown's take on it:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

irclean, i tried the instructions that came with it, the link you gave me, and they are showing a full size u lock. If i understand this right with the sheldon method, locking the rear wheel to the rack in the rear triangle is the best method. It sounds like only the rear wheel is fixed. Am I missing something?

sounds like you got the wrong lock.

a "standard" size U-lock, about 4"x8", should fit around a pole, through the rear wheel and through the seat-stays. the front wheel can be secured to that with a 3-4' cable. someone would have to cut the cable to get the front wheel, or cut the pole or lock to get the bike and rear wheel.

i sometimes lock up with an NYFU (big-ass mini U) around the head-tube and a pole, but for that i've got a 7' cable going through both wheels, held in place with the NYFU. i prefer to use a NY3000 and a shorter cable, as described above, but there's one place i park regularly where that doesn't work.

yes and no...

only the rear wheel is fixed to the pole, but it's claimed to be difficult to get the rest of the bike off.

even if that's true, a crack-head can still destroy your bike trying to get it loose. use the right lock the right way, and the crackhead will keep walking. or just steal your components

i consider the sheldon brown "lock the rear wheel through the rear triangle" method to be a last resort. it's good to know about, but avoid it if you can.

The advantages of the mini locks are that they are lighter, and there is less room for someone to get something in there, like a bottle jack, for prying attacks. The disadvantage is fewer locking options. At least as I see it.

The less room that is left over inside the shackle of the lock, after the bike is locked up by whatever method you choose, the more secure it will be. Of course, if they want to cut it with an angle grinder, none of this matters. This refers to prying attacks only. I guess it might apply somewhat to a hacksaw, as there is less room to work, but whatever.

There are different lengths of mini locks also. The mini generally refers to the width of the crossbar. Usually about 3.5" for a mini, I think. I recently got a mini with a 7 inch shackle, and so far, with admittedly limited use, I'm liking it. I keep seeing things that I can lock to, that my original mini (smaller shackle) would not work on. I do use an OnGuard Bulldog Mini (my original mini) on my old mountain bike, and it works great. I just have to find things I can lock to, and put the bike right up against them.

What you have should work, but it might be tougher to find secure things to lock to.

I think this is what you are looking for.
Or just try this.
This is how I lock my bike up.
https://www.missinglink.org/page/how-lock-bike

ez, thanks for the link. I do like that method. Where I live, its a low crime area. So, what I have been thinking is when im doing a quick run, when im not gone long from the bike I will use the sheldon method and use the supplied cable for the front wheel. If im going to be gone for a longer period of time, I will use the method in the link you supplied.

That's pretty good. Come to think of it, that is how I used to see lots of bikes locked up in Norfolk in the 80's. I hardly ever see one locked like that now.

I use the Sheldon technique and a wheel cable because I'm also in a low crime area. Never had much of a concern about it.

With the "how to lock a bike" link, the only additional suggestion I have is to put the front wheel between the bike and the post when locking through, instead of on the outside of the bike. Leaving it outside the bike is just one more thing for someone to randomly walk by and mess with just for the sake of messing with someone's stuff. Sandwiching it between the frame and the post makes it more difficult to screw around with.

that advantage is negated when a standard-size U-lock is used properly and the space inside the shackle is taken up. if the lock is "stuffed" there's no room for a bottle jack or leverage tools.

if someone puts a standard U-lock around a post and through the rear wheel and seat-stays, that attack won't work. OTOH, if a standard U-lock is used for the sheldon brown method or just around a pole and the seat-tube or a pole and the top-tube, there's plenty of room to bust the lock.

in low crime areas, most bike thieves can get all the bikes they want with a hacksaw or bolt-cutters and they'll leave the U-locks alone... unless it's some combination of desirable bike, crappy lock, poor lock job.

Yes, the point is to have the space as full as possible. The mini is still lighter, though.

Realize with the Sheldon method you are going through the frame (well, nearly all frame designs). An advantage to this method is that is that there are not two rigid endpoints that allow for a leverage attack. SHeldon has one ridge (whatever you lock to) and another flexy (the wheel) make a leverage attach much more difficult. Cutting through a tire rim would also be very difficult. Frame to rack often leaves you r wheel unlocked which is often the 2nd most expensive component on a bike.

There was a poster here awhile back who tried cutting through laced rims, and found it quite easy. That being said, most bike thieves ride away on the bikes they've stolen, so unless you are riding something really special there probably isn't much chance of someone cutting your rim.

As I see it, the problem with the Sheldon Brown method is that it looks insecure, inviting people to mess with your bike.

usually, but not always.

my NYFU (mini) weighs more than my NY3000 (standard).

the NY3000 (aka NY-STD) is tough. the NYFU is OMFG.

Absolutely. But you can't fairly compare tomatoes with, I don't know, apples? I'm just saying a mini of the same series will be lighter. It's good of you to make the distinction, though, as the OP may not know that.

As far as what I have:
OnGuard Brute - Seems strong. Very heavy. Rarely use it. No problem finding things to lock to. But unless I remove the front wheel, per the linked instructions above, it has a big gap.
OnGuard Bulldog Mini - Great little lock. Small, but heavy for the size. Heavy because it's strong, and light compared to a similar, but larger, lock.
Kryptonite Kryptolok Series 2 Mini - This lock I really like. All it said on the packaging was what I wrote in the description. I don't know if they made a real 'mini' mini with that series, or what, but this one has a 7 inch shackle, which is longer than most mini's that I've seen. This one seems strong enough, big enough for most applications, and not too terribly heavy. Really like this lock.

Some great advice above as well. When I first started cycling, I figured someone had already found the perfect lock, and I would buy that. After reading many, many posts and reviews, I've decided that everyone's application is different, which makes it tough. I do think you can make what you have work for you though, in probably all but the highest crime areas. Then, IMHO, nothing will save you if they want it.

Long post. Up late and bored. Nite all

I use the kryptonite Evo Mini. I have no problem locking on my 700x32mm wheels (with fenders) using the Sheldon method to bike racks, poles, meters, etc.