You got a nice bike for the money. That was a great suggestion to try and get the old parts. I would get whatever you can from the friend of the seller so if you want to convert it back you can.

Kickstands on nicer bikes are add on accessories so yes this is normal. You can pick a cheap one up for $10 or less if you want one. I would give you one if you lived closer. Alot of my bikes don't have kickstands on them.

I'll look forward to more info and some pics.

Good job! Congratulations.

' sure its aluminum not steel?

If you must get a kickstand, get the one that mounts at the back.
https://www.bikesomewhere.com/bikesom...5307/35455?g=1
That way you can roll your bike forward while its deployed if you have to. But I would get a bike lock and/or a rear rack first before I get a kickstand, but that just me.

Have a safe and joyful ride!

Thanks
Yes indeed - I wouldn't have thought to ask otherwise. I'm hoping he'll have the original parts, but if not, oh well.
Ah. I just wanted to make sure; I actually think it's a bit cool not having one (especially on such a slim-looking bike as this). If I find that I need one, I'm sure I'll find one that I like.


Hm, unfortunately I'm not sure if there's much to report (sorry), and I'm not sure whether I have access to a camera (will know tomorrow).
I'm busy adjusting the seat right now getting it all leveled out and to the proper height and such (was a bit interesting trying to figure out how and struggling with getting the seatpost off).

After I get it adjusted, I'm going to finish wiping it down (there was some dirt). I think it may need a paint job eventually due to some scratches, etc (if I decide to keep it for a long time, that is).

Tomorrow I'm going to see about getting a derailleur system back on it, and then I'll start accessorizing it (fenders, rack, lights, etc.)


Thanks. Your posts especially helped to get me into the whole craigslist thing.
Err - no, actually, my mistake. I had thought it was steel, then I think the seller said it was aluminum, and I didn't see any rust on the frame (even though components had rust), and it was lighter than I imagined, so I guess I assumed it was aluminum. However, wikipedia says it's Chromoly [steel], and there are two stickers on the fork that each read "Mangalight Manganese Steel Tubes".
Aye, I'm thinking bike lock ASAP, then fenders and rear rack as convenience/comfort accessories. Might not even get a kickstand.
Thanks.


I think by now the bike is dying to be ridden somewhere...

Thanks everyone for the help & support. Definitely better than a Mongoose Paver (which wouldn't have arrived until next Monday if I had ordered it, anyway).

Yeah ride it for a while an make sure you really like it before considering a new paint job. Of course I can't tell from those CL pics, but alot of times the original paint job on a bike even with scratches is just fine. Clean it up and if you want it to shine wax the paint. You can also put some touchup paint (fingernail polish works good) and you will have something to be proud of.

If you are leaving it anywhere unattended the bike lock is the most important thing you can buy.

Well, now I know why it was so cheap - upon further inspection (and removal of the seat post) quite a bit of rust inside the tubes, and some spots outside. Some of the components show rusting as well.

Oh well.

Is it safe to ride/how do I tell?

The rust might be superficial so I wouldn't worry to much. You might want to get the frame treated with JP Weigels frame saver. Fix whatever needs fixing and definitely a good lock to start off with.

Thanks, I'll try the Frame Saver (and I'm also considering using another chem to remove/convert the existing rust).

As to the lock, I was thinking about getting a OnGuard Bulldog Mini TC U-lock (or the Pitbull Mini) and putting it through the rear wheel rim & tire, inside the triangle as described here, and then also getting a cable lock for front wheel, seat, etc (not sure which cable lock yet though).

I use the Onguard Bulldog Mini 7. I like it because its larger than a mini, but smaller than a standard. A lot of us use the Sheldon method of locking that you cited. With my lock I am able to go through the back tire, both chain stays, and the post I am locking it to.

Depending on your area probably any cable lock should work. Locking is more a deterrent than anything else.