myoclonicjerk

Hey Folks... Now that its a bit warmer here in CT, I began bike commuting last week. It's 72 miles round trip. I've done it twice each week so far, unfortunately, we are getting snow right now though! My plan is to do it 2-3 times per week. It's a 1:45-2hr commute each way since there is traffic lights and stop signs.

My question, some of the roads I ride are pretty sketchy right now. Potholes, sand, debris, chipseal..etc. I don't own a Cyclocross bike, never actually ridden one. How much slower, if at all are they vs a road bike? stupid question: Are the wheels interchangeable? Can I put road bike wheels on Cyclocross bike once roads are nicer? Since the commute is long, I want to make it quick as possible.

Or, should I just suck it up. Ride it out for a few weeks on the Madone.

531phile 

Just make sure the cyclocross bike has a rear dropout spacing that matches your wheels which should be about 130mm rear spacing and obvious has the same diameter 700c, I'm assuming. Some bikes like the Surly Crosscheck is set at 132.5 so you can use either 130 or 135 no problem. If the new cyclocross bike have a 135 spacing. You can add spacers to your old 130mm rear wheel, no problem, but you don't want to go the other way around because your rear wheel will be severely dished making it weaker.

Cyclocross will be a tad slower and you'll get more of a workout, maybe add about 10-15 mins to the commute. Really depends on your fitness level and what kind of tires you will be running and how much psi are in them. I'm assuming the cyclocross bike will be a little heavier than your road bike, but there's some tricked out cyclocross bike out there so maybe you'll even go faster if you get a really light one.

I would not get anything bigger than 700 x 32. Too much rotational weight means more effort and a slower ride especially starting up from stop signs/lights.

700 x 28-30 is the sweet spot in terms of comfort, being safe from most potholes, cracks, sand, and speed.

Another thing, cyclocross bike are generally geared lower than normal road bikes so you might have to switch chainrings/cranks to get the fastest most efficient gear ratios for your commute.

Andy_K 

Cyclocross bikes are great for commuting. You can set them up as similar to a road bike as you like. It will be heavier than your Madone. The up side is you can use if for CX racing in the fall. The wheels are compatible. If you get a CX bike with cantilever brakes (as opposed to discs), you'll almost certainly go through a period of complaining about that.

You could also consider a road bike with wider tire clearance like the Surly Pacer.

Baldar538

I'm kind of partial to the sport tourers myself, the road/cyclocross geometry often has short head tubes which I wouldn't like for a 2 hour ride. Maybe something like the ***** Inc. , Salsa Cassaroll or Vaya, Volpe, etc. Especially in urban/suburban environments I like to be a bit more upright to be better able to see what the cars are up to. I think the previously mentioned pacer might be a good choice too, but I don't think it has rack braze ons if that's an issue.

I tried commuting on a Cross Check last year, but it justs didn't work out for me seating position wise (among other things like fit issues - the Cross Check is a great bike, just my body and it never really came to an agreement). Since you're already riding a road bike, that may not be an issue for you, but it's another style of bike to consider.

tsl

My primary commuter is the child of a cyclocross bike and a touring bike. In the three-seasons I run 28s on it. It's equally as fast as my roadies, just not as quick. In stop-and-go city traffic, there's a bit of a difference, maybe 10%, which amounts to a minute or two on an 18-20 minute commute. When I can take my long loop (16.5 miles each way) which has far fewer stoplights, there's almost no difference at all.

tarwheel 

Knobby, heavy tires are what could really slow you down. I agree with others about looking at a sport tourer like the Salsa Casseroll, Soma ES, Gunnar Sport. All of these frames would easily handle 28 mm tires with fenders. You want some fast, light tires for a commute that long -- something like Continental GP 4 Seasons or Gatorskins, both of which come in 25s and 28s and are very durable and relatively light.

myoclonicjerk

Thanks everyone. I've been riding the Conti Gatorskin Sprinter tubulars, 23. Of course, put 2 oz of Stans just in case. Honestly, not sure how much clearance I have on the Madone to fit 28's, it definitely fits 25s. Don't even know if there is a 28 tubular road tire? Right now, with the long commute, I'm thinking a fast tire and all my wheels are tubies right now. I've had no issues at all yet, just thinking long term. Thanks again, great info.

meanwhile

The canti thing is true. But as long as the fork is one that can take a fork mounted hanger, the problem can be fixed in about two minutes. A crosser with sorted cantis can out brake any roadbike because of the greater traction of wider rubber - and it won't squeal any more while doing so! There's a canti sticky going up on the cross forum shortly.

Alternatively, you can fit v-brakes with an adaptor. Or mini-vees without one.

meanwhile

In the circumstances of a commute, they're not really slower at all. The real advantage of a TDF type bike is twitchier handling for hacking through a peleton. In a straight line a crosser is generally just as aero and weight differences are too small to matter outside of a race. In fact, pro-teams often use crossers on the rougher stages of some European road races because when the road gets even a little rough a crosser can be faster than a road bike - it's a sprung versus unsprung weight thing to do with those wider tyres.

Yes, wheels are interchangeable with a road bike.

meanwhile

This is probably a bit high. It's unlikely that a crosser would be 2kg heavier than a road bike of the same price, and adding 2kg to a road bike - on the frame or rims - adds only about 2 minutes to a 50 minute mountain stage climb:

https://www.training4cyclists.com/how...on-alpe-dhuez/

On the flat the difference - of any - will be MUCH smaller. I'd predict a crosser and a road bike to take the same commute time if rider position is the same.

JeffS

Vittoria CG and FMB Paris Roubaix are 700x27
I doubt you'll find many (any?) here commuting on tubulars, so you're blazing your own trail.

As far as cyclocross bikes, that's become a fairly vague term. Historically, it meant high bottom brackets, but that's changed a lot. Some still are, but many are very similar to road geometry now. Their geometry tends to vary more between brands than road bikes.

Having a variety of bikes, I would recommend a "sport tourer" if you want something different, and only then if you want a) wider tires than you can run on the Madone b) an easier way to carry a rack c) better fender accommodations. I have cyclocross bikes, but the only thing they offer over my Salsa Casseroll (fenders, rack, 700x28) or Speedvagen/Giant TCR (700x23or25) is the ability to run even larger tires. Unless you're running studded tires in the snow, I don't see the point for you.

myoclonicjerk

You guys have been great. I'm pretty naive when it comes to bikes other than my road bike, tri bike and 1993 Cannondale Killer V. Although my bike fitness is decent, about 150 miles during the winter and 250-300 miles/week in the summer. The key for my commute since it's 36 miles at its shortest most dangerous route is speed. There is 1900 feet of climbing so I want a fast durable wheel. I know that I'm pretty limited with tubulars, but that is all I've ridden for the past couple years. Thanks for the intel on the the 700/27's, will take a look.

cyclist5

I ride a CX bike to school 13 miles each way with 30lb of books in a pannier and 9lbs of computer stuff in my messenger. It is pretty good though I never rode a dedicated racing bike more than a few feet so I can't tell you how much faster it will be. I did ride 26 miles on it yesterday with a bit of gear and it was fine. Took me about an 1.5-2hrs total. I run 34c tires on mine and will be trying it out with thinner 25-28c ones. As for the weight of the bike sure you can spend 3K on a 15lb racing bike but I spent $1.2K on a 19lb CX bike. For commuting you got to add things like a seat pack with stuff (2lb), a rack (3lb) bike locks (5lb) so your 15lb bike now weighs 25lb, negating the 5lb difference between road and CX with a $2K difference in price tag. I will say an unloaded race bike can FLY! and could I afford one I'd get one just for races.

flattie

What bikes do you feel fit the "sport tourer" genre? Like the OP my commute will be longish - about 26 miles each way. Unlike the OP I don't have a road bike just a aluminum frame hardtail MTB with a front shock. I am seriously considering purchasing a road bike with the goal of commuting into work 1 or 2 days a week to replace the time spent in the gym on an elliptical machine.

Anyway - in looking around locally there are only a few bikes that have grabbed my attention. The Masi CX Uno, the Jamis Bosanova, the Trek Lane, and a Raleigh One Way(if only this bike had gears!). So far the Jamis is in the lead and hopefully I can get a test ride on it this weekend. Are any of these what you would consider a "sport tourer"? I asked to see the Trek 520 at a local shop but he said they wouldn't be available until June.

Thanks - and apologies to the OP for the thread jack.

Barrettscv 

Like Jeff said, Bike companies often put out a confusing range of products, this might help;

(multi-stage) Road-race bike - short wheelbase and moderately steep head tube angles

(Spring classics) Road-race bike AKA “endurance” or “Roubaix” or “Sportive" or “Gran Fondo” bikes with taller head-tubes than other road-race bikes and room for 700x25 tires "

Sports/Touring bikes - long reach caliper brakes, room for 700x25 tires & fenders, longer wheelbase and chainstays in the 415 to 430 range

(recreational) Cyclocross bikes - cantilever or disc brakes, room for 700x32 tires & fenders, longer wheelbase and chainstays in the 415 to 430 range

Touring bikes room for 700x35 tires & fenders, longer wheelbase and chainstays 430mm or longer attachments for racks front & rear

If you need to carry personal items like food or clothing, you will need a substantial seat-post rack. Better yet, consider a Sports or Cyclocross bike. They are much more responsive and stable with a load compared to road-race bikes.

Not the Slowest

My commute is about 46 miles in NYC and I can add another 18 or so when I do laps in Central Park.
I have used several road bikes but have migrated to a touring bike for the commute.

A few things to think about:
a) Can you put a rack on it? My current commuter road bike uses 700 x 28 and I have a rack simply because there are days I want to take things
with me such as extra rain gear etc
b) Can you put Full fenders on the bike. My current bike has partial fenders and it helps when the road is wet or when it rains. However I am setting up the touring bike with FULL fenders to keep me dry.
c) Tire sizing: A cyclocross or Touring bike will allow you to ride on hardpack and when the road gets snow with a larger tire. Of course you may have to swap wheels, but not always upto 700 x32 (check specs)


The trade off may be speed or a back pack will work ( I hate them when it gets warm).

My final thought has been why beat up a good road bike ( if I get one).

FYI, My new touring bike was bought on Ebay for $300 including shipping. There are plenty of bargains out there.

Good luck and ride hard

canyoneagle

I think a Cross bike strikes a great balance between speed and toughness. There are some truly tempting bikes - particularly the titanium models - from the folks a BD https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/cross_bikes.htm

Bryan0520

I commute on a Motobecane Phantom Cross and love it. I recently switched out my stock 35mm knobbies with some 35mm slick city tires. I can tell a big difference just between the knobbies and the slicks. I haven't thought of going much smaller then 35's as part of my commute is on a road that is just loaded with crap. Granted my commute is only 5 miles one way, not your 36 miles so over the longhaul I might want smaller, higher psi tires.

I have a road bike as well which I love to ride on the weekends and in groups, but in terms of a "go anywhere" bike, I love my cross. It gives you the road bike setup with the option to go anywhere, crushed gravel, dirt, grass etc. I mounted a Axiom Streamliner rack on the back along with Axiom panniers. Last year my wife and I went on a week long camping bike trip, I used my road bike and mounted the same rack and panniers. It worked fine, but the bike was a bit squirly with all that weight in back. This year I plan on using my cross bike for the same trip.

threecarjam

My solution to everything is 80's sport touring bikes: Miyata, Trek, Bridgestone, Univega, Fuji, etc. Lugged steel (nice to look at, comfy on less than ideal road conditions), double or triple-butted cromo (not too heavy), usually clearance for 28s + fenders, usually braze-ons for fenders/rear rack, easy to find (also pretty cheap, and easy to unload if you want to), easy to upgrade or downgrade as your needs change, geometry is sensible,. Plenty of those frames being used as CX bikes, too, you can use the same frame for touring, CX, fixed gear, put some north roads on it and go to the farmer's market with a wicker basket, whatever.

ks1g

I started a longer (12 mi ea way) commute this month and have been using both my cross/commuter (Bianchi Castro Valley) and my road bike (early 2000s Trek OCLV frame). Both bike have 23mm tires - Conti Gatorskins on the 'cross and Vitorria open Corsa EX front/Gatorskin (for now) rear. My average door-to-door times for the 2 bikes are within 5 minutes of each other - the road bike is slightly faster (and I tend to ride more spirited when using it). The 'cross has a rack, fenders, panniers instead of a backpack, a better light setup, and can take wider tires (35mm studded in winter) if weather or pavement required it. And I don't feel as badly leaving it out in the rain at the bike rack. I may get 25 or 28mm tires for the 'cross when the current set needs replacement if I want a slightly more comfortable ride.

I move wheels back & forth between the bikes, but prefer something closer to bomb-proof on a commuter. Especially as the distance goes up.

The 'cross would likely be almost as fast as the road bike if I stripped off all the commuter stuff and rode it as hard. In your case, I'd use a cross bike as a dedicated commuter and save the wear on the Madone; plus you can always use it on nice days and as a back up. A possible disadvantage of a cross bike are shorter chainstays = heel strike if you have large panniers (and larger feet). I've noticed toe overlap espeically with a front fender; this may be a function of a smaller frame size.

The other option for your situation may be a frame intended for radonneuring - more road-like than the cross bike, lighter than a tourer, designed for long-haul comfort over handling and able to carry some gear without getting twitchy.

meanwhile

Get a Wingnut pack. They sit on the lower, non-sweating part of your back.

Epicus07 

FWIW I used to have the worst time adjusting cantilever brakes and absolutely despised them. I was using some really old Shimano LX or something.

I threw on some new Kore cantilevers and the adjustment was super easy and powerful.

monsterpile

If I had a longer commute 15+ miles one way I would use a touring bike.

fietsbob

Zippper Thriller fairing.in the front was a big improvement, adding a tall aero arm rest setup,
behind it, books on tape in the earphones, and the miles were just time in the saddle..

+ the fairing meant the weather didn't go thru my clothing and I could hear the audio better.