Nice site, but rather difficult to navigate and find things. I haven't actually seen the LHT on there, but I did write to them. Thanks!

I'm aware of everything you said except the girlbike site - checking that out. The main reason I'm wanting to go with disc brakes is because of the improved stopping power. I've got V-brakes on my current ride, and from everything I read those are superior to cantis in stopping - but I have problems even with new pads and properly adjusting them, etc, etc, especially when they're wet. Plus, when we do go camping, I'm going to be loaded, and when I want to stop, I want to stop *NOW*, not 300 meters down the road. So I don't mind the extra weigh or cost.

Sorry! It's in their QBP catalog.

Click the 'Warehouse' link then follow the links under 'Browse by Category':

- Frames And Bikes
- Framesets And Frames
- Road
- Surly
- Long Haul Trucker

Found them! Thanks very much

hmm.. I can do endo's with a front V-brake, or cantis. What pads are you running, and what levers do you have? Road levers with V-brakes?? I find it hard to believe you don't have enough stopping power. What canti's are they?

When they're dry, my brakes stop me quite nicely - beautifully in an emergency stop. But when wet, it can take full application of both brakes much longer to stop, and emergency stops? Pfffft - forget it.

These are Shimano C101 V-brakes, and Aztek pads. Just bought some new pads today, too, and gotta put them on.

Try the Kool Stop Salmons. They work great.

Thanks; I'll just go to disc brakes on the new ride.

I think I've changed my mind... I've been looking at the specs for a couple of different frames (the Surly LHT and the Nashbar Touring) and comparing them to the specs for my current ride (soon to have that on my website). Frankly, my frame compares favorably to these two touring frames!

What I'm thinking of doing now is:

1. Strip the bike down to parts.
2. Have the frame (it's steel) stripped down to bare metal.
3. Have braze-ons put on the rear for disc brakes.
4. Replace the fork with a carbon one with braze-ons for disc brakes.
5. Paint the frame and fork (BLUE! )
6. Get new wheelsets with 9 or 10 speed freewheel (or cassette; not decided yet)
7. Replace the BB and put on a 175mm crankset
8. Replace the SRAM shifters for a matching set that can do 9-10 speed

How does one find a good place for stripping/painting a bicycle frame?

I used Jasco paint stripper on my trek. Still need to send it to powder coat. The big thing with the touring frames is that they're heavier tubing for strength, and the chainstays are usually 2-3cm longer than normal for heal clearance with panniers. My LHT will be on the road this week, I'll take some pics when it's done.

Mark

Thanks for that tip - I'll look into the Jasco. I'd like to see those pictures of your Trucker!

From post #6 in this thread:

. . . . . . . . . . . . .. Touring - Road - Hybrid
Framesize . . . . . . 56 . . . .. 56 . . . .56
top tube length . .. 56.0 . . . 56.5 . . 56.0
wheelbase . . . . . . 104.5 . . n/a . .. 107
head tupe length .. 13.5 . .. 16.0 . . 21.0
chainstay length . . 45.5 . .. 41.0 . . 46.0
weight . . . . . . . . . 4lbs . . . 4.2lbs . >10lbs

The one labelled "Hybrid" is my current ride. As you can see, my chainstay length is longer even than the Surly LHT! The weight for my bike is kinda iffy; I don't know what the frame itself weighs. The whole bike weighs between 20-25 lbs. I think.

#3 is impractical it's not easy to get disc mounts perfectly straight and you WILL pay dearly for someone to do it correctly.
#4 is way expensive plus the idea that carbon + disc brakes scare the crap out of me.
#6 There is no such animal as a 9 or 10 speed freewheel so you'll be getting a cassette.
#8 won't happen with a 10 speed if you plan on using SRAM twisties

It's not my intent to be harsh only to be realistic

That's part of why I post here; it helps me to learn. Maybe my ideas are not feasible... never know until I ask/try, you know? Plus, as I learn, I may change my mind again. Stay tuned.

This is the fork I have in mind:

https://64.78.59.47/merchant.mvc?Scre...ategory_Code=C

Just looked at it again - my bad, it's not carbon: it's cromoly.

Raiyn was trying to say you're barking up the wrong tree.
If you want to save money, that's great. Slap on some new tires, maybe a new saddle and rack,
and call it a day.

I've just got the new tires and they're great. Replaced the saddle a long time ago with a gel-type one that is great. Had a rack from the get-go, and just replaced that.

Now I want to fiddle and upgrade a bit.

There's no reason you can't use a disc in front and canti or linear in the rear. Since most of your braking force is generated from the front wheel, you probably don't need the additional stopping power in the rear.

Painting costs are all over the map. You can do it yourself pretty cheaply and end up with an OK paint job (check Ken Kifer's website for tips). If you want a long lasting paint/powdercoat job that is really nice try Joe Bell (paint) or Spectrum Powder Works. You can also search the forums for lots of additional info.

https://www.kenkifer.com/
https://www.campyonly.com/joebell.html
https://spectrumpowderworks.com/

Cool - I'll take a look around Charlotte for powdercoating folks. I think I could probably do a decent job of it, but powdercoat is a more durable finish (I think - am I mistaken?).

As for the brakes, you musta missed the part where people have been telling me I'm crazy for using my rear brake as my primary brake. So I definitely want a disc brake in the rear. As for having one up front, it's more for the symmetry of the whole look and for emergency stopping.

Yes, I've gone and read up on the subject. However, since I've been riding this way for four years (lately; way back in my teens hardly counts) and know how things behave, I'm just going to keep using my rear brake.

Whoa. Don't be deceived here. Your current setup weighs 20-25lbs cuz you have accessories like maybe a rack, fenders, kickstand and of course ultra-cool lights . Your new setup may end up the same weight or heavier. It might be good to factor in the weight of current accessories also.

Accessories at lb each add up! My bike weighs 18lbs assembled w/wheels but stripped. But with lights/batteries, seat-post rack and fenders, it's up to 25lbs!

One of these days I'm going to take it over to my vet's office. They have a scale there for weighing large pets, and I can put the bike on there to weigh it. I won't be a *bit* surprised to find it weighs 30 lbs!

If it's a hybrid I'd venture that's a pretty close guess. Just borrow a bathroom scale and weigh yourself. Then pick up the bike and step back on the scale. Subtract the differance and that's your bike.

It's a cool project...go for it. You'll learn more than you'll ever imagine. I find project like these help my problem solving skills at work also. Great distraction from the corporate Dillberts too!

Heh - I just found a package weigh scale with a 125 lb capacity! I found a board that would work to hold the bike, and weighed it. My bike, with rack, lights, and battery, weigh in at 40 lbs!

I used to be a programmer in a previous life One thing I find that helps me with my problem-solving process as well as relieve stress is to play Freecell or Spider Solitaire. Especially the two-suit version of Spider Solitaire.

Hmm...if this is going to be a commuter, why not just get a nice touring frame (or use your current since the measurements seem right), and consider throwing a carbon fork on it if you don't plan on using front panniers. That would cut down weight by a decent margin.

Only reason I even mention weight, is my DB mountain bike turned commuter with rack and all weighed about 35-40lbs, and even I found that bike to be a tad unwieldy whenever I had to carry it anywhere.