Tires
#1
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Baltimore, MD
Bikes: 2010 GT Tachyon 3.0
Tires
So I have the stock tires that came on my GT, everything online says Kenda Kiniption but they seem to be Kenda Kwest:
https://www.kendausa.com/en/home/bicy...ter/kwest.aspx

Max PSI 90, min 58. 700c x 32
I'm a road commuter primarily but I've gone through some pretty horrible mud on these, broken stone, over sticks, etc. Anything else recommended for the streets, but maybe with a bit better bite over mud? Or is it all a trade-off, i.e. the "Smooth center ridge" tires aren't good enough for anything or whatnot?

Was here today.
https://www.kendausa.com/en/home/bicy...ter/kwest.aspx

Max PSI 90, min 58. 700c x 32
I'm a road commuter primarily but I've gone through some pretty horrible mud on these, broken stone, over sticks, etc. Anything else recommended for the streets, but maybe with a bit better bite over mud? Or is it all a trade-off, i.e. the "Smooth center ridge" tires aren't good enough for anything or whatnot?

Was here today.
Last edited by bluefoxicy; 04-25-11 at 11:57 AM.
#2
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Mesa, AZ
Bikes: Bianchi Infinito CV 2014, TREK HIFI 2011, Argon18 E-116 2013
that's more tread that I run! Continental Sport Ultras here. Perhaps it would be better to avoid the mud, sticks and stones? WTF! That's not a road?!
#3
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From: Baltimore, MD
Bikes: 2010 GT Tachyon 3.0
See page 3, the map, it ends at I-70? The red part is paved, the orange part is ... where I was. That big orange stretch that goes north and comes back down.. where it hooks out to go meet with it is an intersection, and I can ride along this really narrow road for another mile or 1.25 miles or such, then have to lift my bike over a barrier (or slide it under) to get back on the path. The road is very narrow and curvy, with a lot of blind curves, and nowhere to pull off; passing is extremely dangerous for motorists, who are likely to be passing in the opposing lane of traffic with about 50-100 feet of visibility around a curve.
Motorists are idiots and I've had them try to pass me (me in a car) at 40mph (the speed limit's 25) in the wrong lane around a HUGE blind hairpin curve. On the outside, meaning they're going 40mph and just barely outpacing me at 25, because my stretch of road is a lot shorter. I don't want to share the road with these people in a car, much less on a bike; they're crazy. There's one stop sign at a 3-way intersection that people run from BEHIND me, because I stop and I'm going 25-30 and they want to go 40-50, so they pass me as I stop.
Mind you it's not that bad on a bike, really; although sometimes I have to pull off the road and wait or else traffic starts queuing horribly (at least most people aren't crazy enough to try to just pass; but plenty are). And by "wait," I mean "Wait in the 6 inch wide gutter." But still, it's not a high-visibility road; it's lots of fun, completely blind, ungodly tight curves, and I've spun out on it (and watched people spin out on it) in a car (I was pacing someone when I spun; other people were whipping the curves on a 300 foot long stretch that was covered in a half inch thick sheet of ice at the time, fun to see coming right toward you sideways....).
So, sometimes I take the path up.

Hmm. Michelin Pilot Tracker looks interesting...
Last edited by bluefoxicy; 04-25-11 at 11:56 AM.
#4
No experience but this might be a bit better --
https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ducts_id=12271
https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ducts_id=12271
#5
#6
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Baltimore, MD
Bikes: 2010 GT Tachyon 3.0
No experience but this might be a bit better --
https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ducts_id=12271
https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ducts_id=12271
The Michelin, at a glance, looks like it's got a good amount of bite along the tread, but supplies a somewhat smooth raised surface; the Kenda doesn't seem to supply as much bite, but supplies a smoother surface because it's actually continuous.
These Sunlite tires also don't look much like they have a lot of bite, though they might roll more smoothly than the Michelin tires because the surface looks more continuous.
But I've got more experience with automobile tires; I'm not sure on bicycle tires. I mean it's easily possible that compression of the surface on those Michelin tires would cause the tread features to come to constant odds with the road surface, creating a bumpier ride and more rolling resistance; this is not a problem on automobile tires because you have to get into really hard core offroading tread before it actually makes a difference.
So I have no idea how to evaluate things. I wonder if there's a guide somewhere...
Maybe my problem is I'm trying to get a road bike to do mountain biking.

#7
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Podunc, Minnesota
Bikes: '14 Bacchetta Corsa, '93 Ryan Vanguard, Action Bent SWB USS
https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_ti..._tires/tougher
I'm surprised no one has mentioned Schwalbe tires yet. I don't have a need to run uber tough tires; I typically flat less than 1/1000 miles so I don't run them, but I've heard great things on this forum about them.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned Schwalbe tires yet. I don't have a need to run uber tough tires; I typically flat less than 1/1000 miles so I don't run them, but I've heard great things on this forum about them.
#8
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Baltimore, MD
Bikes: 2010 GT Tachyon 3.0
https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_ti..._tires/tougher
I'm surprised no one has mentioned Schwalbe tires yet. I don't have a need to run uber tough tires; I typically flat less than 1/1000 miles so I don't run them, but I've heard great things on this forum about them.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned Schwalbe tires yet. I don't have a need to run uber tough tires; I typically flat less than 1/1000 miles so I don't run them, but I've heard great things on this forum about them.
I'm riding mainly over mud off pavement, and I don't want to slip off. Though, honestly that hasn't been much of a problem anyway; I slipped today on a wet wooden bridge, hit pretty hard but eh. Striking the ground repeatedly is good for you, builds character... and causes microfractures throughout the bones that get repaired by bone cells excreting even harder bone material, making your bones more resistant to damage overall.
#9
#10
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 11,373
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From: Columbus, OH
Bikes: '08 Surly Cross-Check, 2011 Redline Conquest Pro, 2012 Spesh FSR Comp EVO, 2015 Trek Domane 6.2 disc
I've got a pair of 37mm WTB All-Terrains on my monstercross bike, and I've taken it out on some moderate local MTB trails. I also ride them on a 34mi r/t commute, all roads. They're similar to those Michelins (above), and I found them online for only $12.00
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#12
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Binghamton, NY
Bikes: Workcycles FR8, 2016 Jamis Coda Comp, 2008 Surly Long Haul Trucker
I think something with an inverse tread like the Continental town and country might work. Or something with a smooth center tread and slight knobs on the outside might work.
However, how long is this path you follow? If your commute is 5 miles, and only 500 yards on on this path, would getting new tires be worth it? Also, does the path always stay like this or is it like this after a few days of rain?
However, how long is this path you follow? If your commute is 5 miles, and only 500 yards on on this path, would getting new tires be worth it? Also, does the path always stay like this or is it like this after a few days of rain?
#13
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The rubber compound used in the tire is just as important as the tread. I do not like the cheap commuter oriented michelins in the wet.
I have had good luck with continental contacts. It's been a while since I use schwalbes, but I remember them being good in slick conditions as well.
I have had good luck with continental contacts. It's been a while since I use schwalbes, but I remember them being good in slick conditions as well.
#14
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Baltimore, MD
Bikes: 2010 GT Tachyon 3.0
~8 miles of commuting, and through that path there's a lot of downhill run-off, so it's muddy like that after rain for a week or two. Doesn't dry out easily. There's even a couple drainage channels for water to run downhill. It's about a mile of mountain though.
No Michellins then.
No Michellins then.
Last edited by bluefoxicy; 04-26-11 at 10:56 AM.
#16
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I would read this- it will tell you everything you need to know about tires
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html
#17
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,214
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From: Baltimore, MD
Bikes: 2010 GT Tachyon 3.0
I would read this- it will tell you everything you need to know about tires
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html
#18
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Joined: Mar 2006
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Not necessarily, you'd be surprised how much variation there is in grippiness of different tires with similar tread. Since those are bargain basement kendas on your bike right now, it wouldn't hurt to just try one new tire up front. The front tire is really the most important, you can use the front kenda you take off on the rear once the rear's worn out.
I think if you research you'll find many recommendations for grippier tires. Schwalbe's website rates their tires based on grippiness in certain conditions- https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires
I think Continental does too.
I think if you research you'll find many recommendations for grippier tires. Schwalbe's website rates their tires based on grippiness in certain conditions- https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires
I think Continental does too.
#19
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Dayton, Oh
Bikes: Salsa Vaya, Specialized Roubaix Team Saxo, Fisher HiFi29er
Here they are on the bike
Last edited by Terry66; 04-27-11 at 04:13 AM.
#20
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Joined: Apr 2011
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I am using the Pro 32c, kevlar, seem pretty good so far.
https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...700C+Tire.aspx
https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...700C+Tire.aspx
#21
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I am using the Pro 32c, kevlar, seem pretty good so far.
https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...700C+Tire.aspx
https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...700C+Tire.aspx
#22
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 11,373
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From: Columbus, OH
Bikes: '08 Surly Cross-Check, 2011 Redline Conquest Pro, 2012 Spesh FSR Comp EVO, 2015 Trek Domane 6.2 disc
Sharp looking setup. I've taken my rig out on a local 20mi MTB loop twice so far, first time in very muddy conditions and yesterday in slightly muddy conditions. Yesterday was probably a better test of traction than the first day because there was shallow slick mud over hardpack, and slick mud/moss/horsecrap on concrete bridges. I was trying to keep it right at the edge of control most of the ride, and things were slipping at the front end in the slicker tight turns, but I was really hammering to get to that point; and when the tire would meet back up with the edge of the mud/packed trail, grip was immediately back. In part, I was running them a little on the hard side for a trail, at 60psi. Last time in the deep mud I was running them closer to 50psi, but then my worry was pinch flats when hopping curbs at the road crossings.
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"I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
- Mandi M.
"I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
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#23
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,599
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From: Santa Fe, NM
Bikes: Vassago Moosknuckle Ti 29+ XTR, 90's Merckx Corsa-01 9sp Record, PROJECT: 1954 Frejus SuperCorsa
#25
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Baltimore, MD
Bikes: 2010 GT Tachyon 3.0
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=24539
Thinking about wet ground traction a lot.



