Any ideas on how to keep my weight of my handlebars?
#2
Raise your seat if it isn't already high enough that your leg is almost fully extended by the bottom of the stroke, move your seat back, raise your handle bars, buy a larger frame (or if size isn't the issue which it almost always is, a frame with more relaxed geometry)
#5
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: A Coffin Called Earth. or Toronto, ON
Bikes: Bianchi, Miyata, Dahon, Rossin
ride handless. 
actually, move your saddle back.

actually, move your saddle back.
__________________
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
#6
The way to get weight off the handlebars is to get yourself in a more upright seating position. Many of the more aggressive geometry bikes, and that includes most bikes sold in the USA, have a relatively steep seat tube angle. That will push the rider forward. It does put the rider in a more aerodynamic position but there's a price to pay for that, and one of them is more weight placed on the hands.
Getting weight off the handlebars is a two prong approach. First is moving the seat farther back. You can also get seat steams that are more angled back if you can't get enough with the seat alone. This will effectively place you farther back from the crank so you won't be thrown into the handlebars (or at least as much). Next you have to be able to comfortable reach the handlebars without leaning to far forward. That could mean a new handlebar with more sweep back. There are lots of choices on the market and the switch is easy. Hopefully you won't have to lengthen the cables which can complicate things but it shouldn't be a deal breaker.
Getting weight off the handlebars is a two prong approach. First is moving the seat farther back. You can also get seat steams that are more angled back if you can't get enough with the seat alone. This will effectively place you farther back from the crank so you won't be thrown into the handlebars (or at least as much). Next you have to be able to comfortable reach the handlebars without leaning to far forward. That could mean a new handlebar with more sweep back. There are lots of choices on the market and the switch is easy. Hopefully you won't have to lengthen the cables which can complicate things but it shouldn't be a deal breaker.
Last edited by Stubby; 06-09-11 at 11:14 PM.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 248
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From: Chicago
Bikes: 09 Jamis Aurora, 4 Giant ATX 870, 64 Schwin Traveler
My girlfriend rode for weeks on this arm barely complaining. So if your arm doesn't look like this, you need to toughen up. 

(It broke in August of 2010, she was told it was healed by a doc who probably didn't look very hard, which is why she was riding thinking it was healed but just hurting. Needless to say we found a new doc and she's scheduled for surgery in a week.)

(It broke in August of 2010, she was told it was healed by a doc who probably didn't look very hard, which is why she was riding thinking it was healed but just hurting. Needless to say we found a new doc and she's scheduled for surgery in a week.)
#8
There's always this option.
#9
There's always this option.
#10
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,692
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From: Sioux Falls, SD
Bikes: '81 Panasonic Sport, '02 Giant Boulder SE, '08 Felt S32, '10 Diamondback Insight RS, '10 Windsor Clockwork, '15 Kestrel Evoke 3.0, '19 Salsa Mukluk
Stand up when you pedal.
Sorry... couldn't resist.
Sorry... couldn't resist.
#11
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,599
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From: Santa Fe, NM
Bikes: Vassago Moosknuckle Ti 29+ XTR, 90's Merckx Corsa-01 9sp Record, PROJECT: 1954 Frejus SuperCorsa
There's always this option.
#12
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
As a technique to get more setback, 1 way, the use of a Brompton Saddle adapter pin,
attaches to the top of a plain seat post, then the saddle clip rotated above the pin,
attaches to the SAP, it is a rear facing horizontal tube, when fitted.
Or, a crank forward bike they put the seat tube well behind the BB,
for flat footed stops.
Or, a 'dutch bike' with a mid 60 degree seat tube angle
attaches to the top of a plain seat post, then the saddle clip rotated above the pin,
attaches to the SAP, it is a rear facing horizontal tube, when fitted.
Or, a crank forward bike they put the seat tube well behind the BB,
for flat footed stops.
Or, a 'dutch bike' with a mid 60 degree seat tube angle
#13
As a technique to get more setback, 1 way, the use of a Brompton Saddle adapter pin,
attaches to the top of a plain seat post, then the saddle clip rotated above the pin,
attaches to the SAP, it is a rear facing horizontal tube, when fitted.
Or, a crank forward bike they put the seat tube well behind the BB,
for flat footed stops.
Or, a 'dutch bike' with a mid 60 degree seat tube angle
attaches to the top of a plain seat post, then the saddle clip rotated above the pin,
attaches to the SAP, it is a rear facing horizontal tube, when fitted.
Or, a crank forward bike they put the seat tube well behind the BB,
for flat footed stops.
Or, a 'dutch bike' with a mid 60 degree seat tube angle
I had a recumbent I sold about 5 years ago after over 4 years of use. I never could get used to the way it handled hills, especially with any kind of load. That may have more to do with the Bike E (now out of business) then recumbents in general. I haven't ridden enough other styles to know. But on top of that it was just not convenient for tooling around in an urban area.
It doesn't surprise me that the issue of pressure of the hands and wrist comes up for discussion quite often. Nearly all bikes sold in the USA are designed for sporty type riding with aggressive angles that throw the rider forward. Add to that the either drop or straight type handlebars and you have a recipe for pain. Contrast that to the European style everyday type bikes with more relaxed angles and swept back handlebars designed for more upright riding. These type bikes take pressure off the upper body. You lose some efficiency but gain comfort. What you get depends on what's important to you. As the years go by comfort has become much more important than gaining a few mph. Being on a bike does not mean having to be uncomfortable. There is no need to suffer.
Last edited by Stubby; 06-10-11 at 02:22 PM.
#18
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Long Beach, Ca.
Bikes: Raleigh Sojourn, '67 Raleigh Super Course, old Gary Fisher Mamba, and a generic Chinese folder
My vote for moving the seat back. I have also replaced my sem with a slightly longer 30 degree angle one, and it helped tremendously.
#21
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.

Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 13,863
Likes: 6
From: Washington, DC
Bikes: Some bikes. Hell, they're all the same, ain't they?
The less weight you have on your hands, the more weight is on your butt.
When I ride my wife's Townie, my hands aren't carrying much weight at all. But, I end up wishing for a sprung seatpost or saddle because the existing super-plush, super-wide saddle just doesn't seem to be enough.
When I ride my wife's Townie, my hands aren't carrying much weight at all. But, I end up wishing for a sprung seatpost or saddle because the existing super-plush, super-wide saddle just doesn't seem to be enough.
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tiger1964
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