Fender Options (Or Lack Thereof)
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Westbrook, Maine
Bikes: 2011 Litespeed M-1, 1991 Raleigh Technium (Commuter)
Fender Options (Or Lack Thereof)
I'm definately ordering this bike tomorrow
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/..._cross_cx2.htm
And it doesn't look like I'll have much options for fenders because there are no tabs down by the rear wheel. I can put a rack on it which is nice.
So what I'm wondering is if I should just use quick release fenders? That's probably not going to keep my panniers clean though.
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/..._cross_cx2.htm
And it doesn't look like I'll have much options for fenders because there are no tabs down by the rear wheel. I can put a rack on it which is nice.
So what I'm wondering is if I should just use quick release fenders? That's probably not going to keep my panniers clean though.
#2
We looking at the same bike?
I see one set of frame/fork bosses for fender or rack. You can install a set of fenders on that bike.
If you want to run both a rear rack AND fender its another problem.
I see one set of frame/fork bosses for fender or rack. You can install a set of fenders on that bike.
If you want to run both a rear rack AND fender its another problem.
#3
Noobie of the year :)
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Hour South of Boston
Bikes: 1980's Miyata Seven Ten
Even if you want a rack and rear fender, it's a non-issue. There's no rule saying you cant put a screw through the fender stay and rack eyelet. They usually come with different length screws for this exact reason.
#4
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Joined: Feb 2001
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From: England
One threaded hole is fine for rack and fenders.
You put the heavily weighted rack stay close to the frame and on the same bolt, you then put the un-loaded fender stay.
Just get a stainless steel M5 allen bolt of suitable length so you have about 1mm of thread protruding. use a washer under the bolt head.
You put the heavily weighted rack stay close to the frame and on the same bolt, you then put the un-loaded fender stay.
Just get a stainless steel M5 allen bolt of suitable length so you have about 1mm of thread protruding. use a washer under the bolt head.
#5
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From: Scottsdale, Arizona
Bikes: [IMG]https://i531.photobucket.com/albums/dd359/89ScottG/TourdeScottsdalePic.jpg[/IMG]
One threaded hole is fine for rack and fenders.
You put the heavily weighted rack stay close to the frame and on the same bolt, you then put the un-loaded fender stay.
Just get a stainless steel M5 allen bolt of suitable length so you have about 1mm of thread protruding. use a washer under the bolt head.
You put the heavily weighted rack stay close to the frame and on the same bolt, you then put the un-loaded fender stay.
Just get a stainless steel M5 allen bolt of suitable length so you have about 1mm of thread protruding. use a washer under the bolt head.
#7
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,571
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From: Oxnard, CA
Bikes: 2009 Fuji Roubaix RC; 2011 Fuji Cross 2.0; '92 Diamond Back Ascent EX
#8
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: St Louis
Bikes: 72 Lygie (SS conv), 87 Ironman Expert, 94 Allez Sport, 16 Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross
Set up may depend on rack and fender choices. On my VO rack the tabs hang down so p-clamps for the fenders have to go on the outside.
#9
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From: Scottsdale, Arizona
Bikes: [IMG]https://i531.photobucket.com/albums/dd359/89ScottG/TourdeScottsdalePic.jpg[/IMG]
Hmm, it obviously must depend on rack design. With all of my racks, you would have to do some pretty serious bending to get the fender supports outside the rack in any capacity. I have PB Cascadia fenders by the way.
Last edited by Sundance89; 08-23-11 at 10:12 AM.





