I am about 5'9" or a little less. My pubic bone height (inseam) is 32 inches. I ride bikes from as small as 54 cm to as large as 60 cm although my ideal size is probably 56 cm. The Stanyan is a 58 cm.

Regarding the build specs, let me post that later after my morning ride when I have a little more time. I will also post some pictures showing details. I have many.

I think that specific cruiser needs the 2nd top-tube to store the dilithium crystals

Yes! Post lots of pictures! I am saving up towards an ES but the Stanyan is beautiful.

Regarding the issue of Soma Stanyan head tube size. I just did some measuring on a couple of my bikes. My Stanyan is a nominal 58 cm frame but the actual center to top of top tube measures close to 57 cm. The head tube is 140 mm long. I have an old 1982 Trek (read about it here: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...43-My-old-Trek ) that measures 58 cm center to top of top tube and it has a head tube length of 145 mm.

These are so close that I see no real difference, especially considering that the Stanyan frame is slightly smaller c - t.

Love double top tubes, but I'm nowhere near tall enough to actually fit a frame that has it. Prefer the truss frame:

I agree that the ANT truss frame bike are gorgeous. The day after I win the lottery ...

As per request, here are some build specs for my Soma Stanyan:

Nominal 58 cm frame (actually 57 cm center to top of top tube)
Headset: Velo Orange Grand Cru threadless with sealed bearings
Sugino Compact Crank (48 -34)
Shimano 9-speed cassette (13 - 25)
Tektro brakes, model R538
Tektro main levers
Tektro interrupter secondary levers
Nitto Noodle handlebars
Bar tape: Tressostar cloth with lacquer coating, twine wrap
VO stem (since replaced with shorter Dimension brand)
Wheels: Sun CR18 rims, Shimano Tiagra hubs, DT butted spokes, built by me
Tires: Panaracer Pasela Tourguard (700x28)
Deraillers: Shimano Tiagra, front and rear
Shift levers: Silver friction from VO
Pedals: MKS Sylvan touring with half clips
Bottom bracket: Velo Orange
Seat post: Velo Orange
Saddle: VO copy of Brooks B17 (I advise getting a Brooks B17)
Chain: KMC 9-speed
Cables: VO silver braided

I hope I haven't left anything important out.

A word of advice for those who are considering buying a Soma frame: I bought mine from a shop in Austin, Texas. As part of the deal they prepped the frame. The mechanic told me he had to expend considerable effort in cleaning up the threads, especially the bottom bracket as I recall. From my experience I would not advise buying a Soma frame without either having the ability to do the prep or having access to somebody who can do it for you.

As for the frame itself, it is entirely satisfactory, As the pictures show, the finish is very good and the workmanship in general is top notch.

One other thought. I had fenders and a rear rack installed on my bike for some time. The front fenders suffered from some toe clip overlap that was manageable but still a nuisance. I recently removed the fenders and the rack. We aren't getting much rain in Texas and they were there mostly for style anyway.

And now for the pictures:

Good point. I guess was thinking more about seat to bar drop but lots of factors go into this.

The caad has a basically level and straight top tube. On my 58 cm bike the measurements are:

Top tube - 57.5 cm
Seat tube angle - 73 deg
Head tube angle - 73.5 deg
Head tube length - 17.5 cm

For the 58 and 60cm Stanyan the measurements (respectively) are

Top tube - 57.5 cm and 59 cm
Seat tube angle - 73 deg (both)
Head tube angle - 73.5 deg (both)
Head tube length - 13.7 cm and 15.7 cm

So you can see my concern. In a 58, both bikes have the same top tube and angles but the head tube is 4 cm shorter on the Stanyan. If I bump up to a 60 the head tube is still 2 cm shorter and the top tube 1.5 cm longer. Either way I look at this, the Stanyan is going to need more spacers to be equal to my caad which is already a more agressive riding bike than I want for a commuter. Lots of spacers and riser stem seem the only solution unless I'm really not understanding something about bike size and geometry.

I hope this is not overkill.

No Mike, huge fan here too! Ok at first I was a bit iffy about it, but then I really warmed up to it, especially after reading up on it at the Rivendell site (https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/knothole_post/367). And it's not just something they do, it's been done, and indeed it is to strengthen the frame without going to stronger tubing. Yes it weighs more than a single tube but compared to your own body, it's nothing. Now I really love it, and more so that I do not see any TT on the road. It's different, and I love it.

Edit: Check out https://www.pushingthepedals.com/2011...eset/#more-737 and its comment section where Grant himself chimes in on the Riv/Soma! Those lugs are nice... buy it OP... buy it...

Not at all. Love getting an idea what this bike will look like when built. I like the twine on the handlebars. Thanks for sharing.

Both 58s have the same reach. Fork steerer tube length is fixed sets your final stack, lots of spacers aren't bad, just weird looking. If you want a taller bike (the 60) you'll need a 20cm shorter stem. In my old age I go for the taller bike. I'm the same height as you, I'd get an 60cm ES with sloping TT.

Yeah, that's on my short list but just kind of wanted lugged for no real reason other than looks (and a bunch of spacers detracts from that). Maybe I should just buy something and get on with it. I can always save up for a waterford someday

Edit: oh, btw, the ES doesn't exactly look like it has a sloping TT. Is anything other than dead level sloping?

I think the double top tube thing looks kind of ugly, but for some reason I really like the Breezer style double top tube and extra set of stays



I think Riv does a Bombadil like that, and I kind of want it...

By the way Fiets, it that what you were talking about?

The Stanyan doesn't have size for anyone taller than 6', IMHO. The key dimension for a sloping top tube is the head tube length, appearances can be deceiving. The 58cm Stanyan has a 137mm head tube, the 58cm ES has a htl of 170mm. A 60cm Stanyan has a 157mm htl, the 60cm Es has 190 htl. ETT lengths are very close for both 58s and both 60s. Comparing same sizes, for the same stack, Stanyan takes 33mm more spacers than the ES, reach is the ~same. As I've aged, I need extra stack to enjoy my ride. I've got a nice 70's era custom made frame but 30 years later, I need an extra inch of stack.

BTW, I agree, Stanyan is beautiful. Instead of an ES, I ended up using a 1981 C&V 25" Schwinn Voyageur, it's very close to the 60cm ES accept the seat tube is 64cm. Same stack and ~reach, big difference in seat tube lengths. No room for a Thudbuster (for my old back ).

note: the Soma website has been updated and I think they made a mistake on the ES seat tube angle. Right now it claims every size ES has a 75* sta, in the old version of the website the 58 and 60 cm frames had a 73* sta. My posts assume the older, more likely 73*. Changing the sta 2* changes reach by ~20mm for the same ett length.

As far as weight, I would think the weight of an additional piece of tubing, especially to most commuters, would be completely unnoticeable. Choosing that or oversized tubing I think is almost completely an aesthetic preference. YMMV.

Is there anything about brazing vs welding that lead the Stanyan into a different headtube length from the ES?

I wonder if it's an issue with the available lug angles, seems like sloped TT bikes are welded.

I actually emailed soma about this and this was their response.

That's a lot of good information but I'm not sure how to interpret what that means for me. I guess the short answer is the Stanyan is probably not the right bike for me (6'3") and an ES in either a 58 or 60 would be a much better option. So much for my dream of a reasonably priced lugged frame. Still, I kind of like the ES and with fork it's at least $150 less.

You figured it out, 58cm Stanyan can be a back breaker for a 6'3" rider. ES is pretty cool looking, I'd get the carbon fork too, or at least the lugged crown fork (since you're saving all that $$). I wouldn't be shy about going to the 60cm (nobody's getting younger). It will require a 20mm shorter stem to have the same position (reach) as your CAAD. The IRC forks are supposed to have 350mm steerer version, that's ideal for taller riders, I never see them in stock.