Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Commuting
Reload this Page >

What are the advantages of wider tires for commuting?

Search
Notices
Commuting Bicycle commuting is easier than you think, before you know it, you'll be hooked. Learn the tips, hints, equipment, safety requirements for safely riding your bike to work.

What are the advantages of wider tires for commuting?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-14-11 | 12:44 AM
  #26  
experience over lungs
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
From: SF Bay Area, CA

Bikes: Marin Cortina, Bianchi San Jose

+1 on the not having to pick a line. I feel less stressed in traffic on wider tires for that reason.
DG Going Uphill is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-11 | 03:29 AM
  #27  
Banned
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 5,804
Likes: 0
From: Northern California

Bikes: Raleigh Grand Prix, Giant Innova, Nishiki Sebring, Trek 7.5FX

Hey there ROJA!

Wider tires are ideal for most neglected city roads, today. Some cities have roads as bad as some rock-filled mountain trails. Riding your mountain bike with wide tires sounds like a better idea, to me. Wider tires are going to be more hazard-free, you'll therefore have fewer flats, and much greater traction. Besides, exactly how much time will you save by switching to thinner tires?

With city traffic and stop lights, you'll most likely break even on the time bet. Speed is for racing bikes aided by skinny tires, that offer less road resistance. The faster road bikes also have lighter aluminum and carbon frames. Having a lighter frame and thinner tires does not IMHO equal an efficient or practical commuter bike for most urban road conditions.

If you commute on super smooth roads, that don't offer much in the way of road debris, cracks, cobble stones, and surface diversity, then the skinny tires will make you feel great as you fly on our cities streets.

A rigid fork on your mountain bike and MTB type tires will suit your daily commute just fine. Many people commute quite successfully on MTN bikes!

As a matter of fact, you can successfully commute on just about any type of bike.



However, you might want to remain mindful, that just because any bike can be a commuter bike, NOT all commuter bikes are "City Bikes"!

- Slim

PS.

A fifteen-mile commute each way, is nothing on a nice solid MTN bike!

Last edited by SlimRider; 09-14-11 at 02:08 PM.
SlimRider is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-11 | 04:48 AM
  #28  
sonatageek's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,766
Likes: 7
From: Cleveland,Ohio
Well I don't know what 27 x 1 1/4 tires you had that were narrower than 20mm 700c tires, but that just does not make sense to me. A 27 x 1/4 tires is about 32 mm, a 27 x 1/8 is about a 28mm and so on. I get that over inflating them led to some blown out tubes, but not that you would get pinch flats when things were over inflated.

As far as the feel of the tires (slow) that really varies on the brand and model and in my experience less connected to the tires width. I went from a 26 x 1.5 to a 26 x 2.0 on my commuter (Marathon to Marathon Supreme) and the wider 'better' tire rolls faster and is about half the weight (which might be why it rolls faster ). I but better in quotes since the Marathons gave me 6000 trouble free miles and the Supremes are going to have to come close to matching that to gain top honors in my book.

Glad the 700 wheels are working out for you.


Originally Posted by blue9
Just wanted to add my experience. I started out commuting on 27x1.25, lower pressure tires. I blew out tubes a few times because I'd over-inflate them (I like higher PSI). Also got several pinch flats. I later inherited a set of 700c wheels with 20mm tires. Threw those on my commuter and LOVED IT! Yeah, on bumpy pavement the bumps are sharper - but I prefer the sharper bump to the squishy bouncy-bump of the lower PSI tires. Overall I felt much quicker with the thin tires, but I think a lot of that has to do with being able to inflate them to 100+ PSI. I'm actually about to buy a new set of tires and will probably go for 25s.

IMO, 20mm >>>> 1.25". I don't feel like my pedaling energy is being sucked up by the tires, and I've had far fewer flats (knock on wood). Though I think it's probably an anomaly that I've had fewer flats with such thin tires...
sonatageek is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-11 | 05:20 AM
  #29  
FunkyStickman's Avatar
On a Mission from God
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,009
Likes: 5
From: Thibodaux, LA

Bikes: '10 Surly LHT, Rat-rod Klunker, '82 Peugeot PH12 Centennial

The biggest difference you will notice with wider tires is the increased weight. However, the comfort and traction more than make up for it in my mind. Some people just can't handle the sluggish feeling, but it never bothers me. I run 1.5's on my bike. I rode an old mountain bike for a while before I decided to upgrade to a touring bike, mostly because the MTB was too small and had no heel clearance for panniers.
FunkyStickman is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-11 | 05:44 AM
  #30  
sudo bike's Avatar
Bicikli Huszár
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,116
Likes: 0
From: Fresno, CA

Bikes: '95 Novara Randonee

I run 35's and don't feel much practical difference between that and 28's (and no difference in commute times at all), at least in terms of speed. It is, however, noticeably more comfortable, and I can generally run over rocks and other debris without fear of falling. Buddies running sub 28's go down hitting a decent sized rock, I don't even pay attention since it just doesn't matter.
sudo bike is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-11 | 07:27 AM
  #31  
Junior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: London

Bikes: Trek 4500, orange patriot

Usually riders use wider tyres in the front because it gives accurate steering in the front and basically called steer tyre. It is normally followed by amateur riders to try different sized tyres in the front and in the back and front tyre would be wider than back. This would give cornering grip under the fork and provides comfort. In the rear end normal threaded tyres would give good wet weather grip and provide needed mud clearance through the rear stays.
jasonborne is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-11 | 07:32 AM
  #32  
The Chemist's Avatar
Senior Member
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 780
From: Shanghai, China

Bikes: Waltly Custom Ti // Seaboard CX01 // Dahon Boardwalk

28s seem to work pretty well for me, even running over some of the horribly cratered roads that can be found in particularly suburban/industrial parts of Shanghai.
The Chemist is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-11 | 09:55 AM
  #33  
Member
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Portland

Bikes: Fuji Grand SE; '73 Nishiki Pro

Originally Posted by sonatageek
Well I don't know what 27 x 1 1/4 tires you had that were narrower than 20mm 700c tires, but that just does not make sense to me.
No, I was saying that I started out with tires that were 1.25" wide, and later got a hand-me-down 700c wheelset with 20mm tires - and that I LOVE the narrow 20mm tires. But that I think most of what I love is being able to inflate to 100+ PSI, and the huge weight difference...my next set of tires will probably be 25mm.
I guess my point was that you can commute on rail thin tires if you want - it's just personal preference. Just because 20mm tires are "racing" tires doesn't mean you can't commute on them - for me, it beats the heck out of using 1.25" tires.
blue9 is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-11 | 10:00 AM
  #34  
himespau's Avatar
Senior Member
Titanium Club Membership
15 Anniversary
Community Builder
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 13,769
Likes: 3,945
From: Louisville, KY
Originally Posted by canyoneagle
If the old MTB is full rigid, you could set it up with a set of 1.5-2.0" slicks, alternate bar of your choice, rear rack (and fenders if there's rain in your forecast), and you'd have a great commuter on the cheap. I've done this in the past, and have installed a road cluster to get closer gearing.

The bikes you posted are all excellent choices. I'd say "do up" the MTB and ride it while you are assessing your options.
+1, you can even throw drops on there if you want for a bombproof "road" commuter. I personally use 1.25" slicks, but will probably go with 1.5" the next time as tubes are easier to come by.
__________________
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?), 1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"





himespau is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-11 | 10:12 AM
  #35  
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 132
Likes: 2
Commuting is, as many have already said, different from racing. Two considerations come immediately to my mind. First, you can't count on your road surfaces. An example: yesterday I went out to do some shopping. About a mile of my route was torn up. No marked detour, no obvious alternative (a lake to the north and a limited access highway to the south). Riding over the dirt, gravel and soft sand was lot easier with wider tires. Second, although in general skinny tires are faster, wider, lower pressure tires can actually have less rolling resistance than skinnier higher pressure tires on roads that are less than perfect.
qualla is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-11 | 10:44 AM
  #36  
Randomhead
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 25,930
Likes: 4,825
From: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
I feel a lot more comfortable going over curb cuts on a bigger tire. This makes it worthwhile for me. Unfortunately, I bought some cheap tires for my mtb commuter, and now I wish I hadn't. They are heavy and really feel sluggish. It is nice to be able to ride them wherever I want without issue though.

I'm pretty sure that the trend with the tubular tires that racers use is towards bigger cross sections. They have the additional advantage that it's fairly difficult (often said to be impossible) to get a pinch flat with a tubular.

Originally Posted by ROJA
Guys, thanks for all the feedback so far.

How can I figure out how narrow a tire will fit on my 26" Mavic wheels on the Marin?
rims have a width rating. I can't stand the look of really narrow tires on a 26" rim, so I went with a 2" tire. Probably one reason I don't like them
unterhausen is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-11 | 11:45 AM
  #37  
Senior Member
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 12,948
Likes: 9
From: England
Originally Posted by interested
For me (and many others) 28 mm tires seem to be the sweet spot between many compromises like speed, comfort, and ease of maintenance......
+1 on this entire rely.

Riding at night, you often hit potholes without warning and a few extra mm of air give you protection against damage and punctures. I find that 32mm are overkill for fast road commuting but fine for rough tracks.
The main decision is what kind of brakes are going to give you the required tyre/fender clearance. You can always fit narrower tyres but brakes limit the wider selection. I find that long drop calliper brakes are a good solution with enough room for 28mm+ fenders (mine can fit 32). The only other contender, for wetter conditions, would be disk brakes.
Note that 28mm seem to be the most variable tyre in terms of actual, measured width.
MichaelW is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-11 | 12:17 PM
  #38  
Senior Member
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,774
Likes: 1,748
Originally Posted by ROJA
Thanks for the tips. I figured I would need a real road/commuter bike to maintain good speed over a 15-mile commute (each way), but I have to say that riding my MTB is an interesting idea.

It's a 1997 Marin Eldridge Grade hardtail that was just tuned up and is in great shape. It only weighs about 26.5 pounds, which isn't much heavier than some of the drop-bar commuting bikes (the Bosanova weighs 27 lbs!). If I switch to a rigid fork, I imagine I could save another pound or so. With bar ends, I can get a pretty decent stretch as well (for aero effect and comfort).

Very interesting idea!
I tried my MTB converted as a commuter (slicks, fenders, rack) for a couple of years. My commute is 12.5 miles each way, quite hilly (up and down of course) for about 1/2 of it, the other half being pretty much a flat steady speed ride, some traffic riding. I could never get my MTB comfortable for this kind of riding. It's fine on the trail where you're constantly varying your riding but for chugging along for an hour requiring relatively constant position and effort, it just killed me. I worked hard at dialing in the position, but could never get it. I don't think MTB's are intended for this sort of stuff, although I know that some make it work very well. The road-style cross bike commuter I have now is 1,000 X more comfortable and enjoyable.

So I built up a cross frame into a commuter with 32mm tires (and fenders and rack). Just for reference, I also have a very light weight carbon fiber, racing-tired road bike which I also love.

This type of "road position" commuter is so much more better for me compared to the MTB. Again, for long-ish steady state riding, I just don't think MTB's are intended for that and I just wasn't able to make it comfortable although it works great for trail riding.

But on the question of the tires: I LOVE those 32 mm tires! What do they do that the 23's on the road bike don't (by the way the high end 23's on the road bike are surprisingly comfortable and durable, no complaints there).

The wider tires:

give you more carefree riding. No need to avoid gravel patches, you can divert from the pavement onto grass, dirt or gravel without feeling unsteady, they are much more steady and comfortable in potholes, pavement cracks, transitions, etc.... and because of that, a lot of the supposed loss of pure speed really disappears. You just don't slow down or worry about your path/route. I have never had a flat (about 1000 miles so far) and have never given one thought to road debris, including glass. I don't seek it out and make normal efforts to avoid it, but don't worry about it and haven't had a problem.

Plus, yes maybe the bike is slower.... in some situations, but not all! And some of that has to do with the overall weight of the bike, not the tires.

It's about 5-7 pounds heavier (mostly from the large tires, fenders, rack, trunk bag; the bike and wheels are only a couple pounds heavier), so it is a little slower going up hill.

I don't think it's much slower at all on the flats on smooth pavement. OK,call it a TINY bit slower on the flats.

But I believe it's faster - AND more care free - on rough pavement, transitions, avoiding obstacles, etc. It's hugely faster on any sort gravel, even smooth gravel. But rough loose gravel? No comparison, the 32's can handle it, the 23's are terrifying and/or I just can't ride on it.

Another thing that contributes to overall speed and mitigates any supposed increase in rolling resistence is the fact that I run the 32's at about 60 lbs (compared to 90-100 on my 23's). This means I don't notice every little crack and bit of gravel on the pavement, and am much more likely to roll on through rather than avoid this stuff or slow down for it.

So for commuting, I think the wider tires actually make my commute faster and easier.

Last edited by Camilo; 09-14-11 at 12:34 PM.
Camilo is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-11 | 09:31 PM
  #39  
bragi's Avatar
bragi
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,911
Likes: 3
From: seattle, WA

Bikes: LHT

Originally Posted by sudo bike
I run 35's and don't feel much practical difference between that and 28's (and no difference in commute times at all), at least in terms of speed. It is, however, noticeably more comfortable, and I can generally run over rocks and other debris without fear of falling. Buddies running sub 28's go down hitting a decent sized rock, I don't even pay attention since it just doesn't matter.
I switched from 37s to 28s about a year ago, and, as you said, the rocks are still not a safety problem at that width, but I have noticed an odd little phenomenon with the less-fat tires: when I ride over rocks in the road with the 28s, they often shoot out to the side at very high speeds, and sometimes hit parked cars.
bragi is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-11 | 10:22 PM
  #40  
seanabilly's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Lansdale PA

Bikes: '09 Jamis Aurora Elite '88 Trek Elance '96 Gary Fisher

Originally Posted by bragi
I switched from 37s to 28s about a year ago, and, as you said, the rocks are still not a safety problem at that width, but I have noticed an odd little phenomenon with the less-fat tires: when I ride over rocks in the road with the 28s, they often shoot out to the side at very high speeds, and sometimes hit parked cars.
+1 on that!

I use 28 gatorskins for my commute and have done so for years. I love them. Much more fun than my mountain bike with slicks. However, when it is dark in the winter and pot holes are covered in rain, I prefer to run 32s.

I also ride the 28s on gravel trails without any issues. Anything thinner than 28s in gravel is not fun for me..just scary. When I hit the road, I hate the feel of larger tires. They feel very stable (mostly due to the weight) but also a bit dead.

I think it comes down to how confident you feel when you are riding. Get a bike that can accept tires to 42 with fenders. Many cyclocross do. Ride bikes with different sized tires. Most shops have plenty of selection.

I have been commuting for 35 years and I settled on 28s. My buddy has been commuting for 40 years and he has been commuting on 40s. Its just personal preference.
seanabilly is offline  
Reply
Old 09-15-11 | 10:01 AM
  #41  
Senior Member
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 209
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by bragi
I switched from 37s to 28s about a year ago, and, as you said, the rocks are still not a safety problem at that width, but I have noticed an odd little phenomenon with the less-fat tires: when I ride over rocks in the road with the 28s, they often shoot out to the side at very high speeds, and sometimes hit parked cars.
I just put on 28's as an experiment, and noticed the same thing. It's the pressure. Wider/softer tires conform to the stones- hard narrow tires send them flying!
Rockfish is offline  
Reply
Old 09-15-11 | 11:39 AM
  #42  
Senior Member
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 9,694
Likes: 2,616
From: northern Deep South

Bikes: Fuji Touring, Novara Randonee

Jan Heine did a test in Bicycle Quarterly a couple years ago that showed, for comparable tires, fatter was not slower. (Comparable meaning similar in weight, tire thickness, and construction).

Two problems with that conclusion. First, it's hard to get lightweight tires in 32 with high thread counts. Second is that fatter tires often have thicker rubber, which is good at least for a commuter, because the thicker rubber lasts longer before wearing out and prevents flats.

If you try to hustle in early to make that important meeting with tires that aren't really worn out yet, Murphy will see that you get a flat. That gets you to your meeting late and dirty.
pdlamb is offline  
Reply
Old 09-15-11 | 01:17 PM
  #43  
Steely Dan's Avatar
born again cyclist
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,412
Likes: 88
From: Chicago

Bikes: I have five of brikes

when weather allows, i commute on my road bike with its 700x23 tires inflated to ~130psi. it's not so much for the speed, i just like the sensation of a really high-pressure tire. it makes me feel like i'm riding on steel wheels, no rolling resistance at all (i also haven't had a flat since moving over to my road bike for commuting, knock on wood). however, tires that narrow and high-pressure really aren't the safest bet when roads are wet, so i have a hybrid that came with some 700x37 tires. they're pretty nice tires, but i can feel the extra weight, and their max inflation is only 85psi, so i think i might drop down to a 32 or 28 with a slightly higher max pressure when it comes time to replace them.

Last edited by Steely Dan; 09-15-11 at 01:23 PM.
Steely Dan is offline  
Reply
Old 03-11-12 | 10:54 AM
  #44  
Doane's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
From: California

Bikes: Specialized Sirrus with fenders, rack

I have a fairly short commute back and forth to work of less then 10 miles.. all down hill in the mornings, all up hill in the evenings. Mostly asphalt on the roads while the town streets are cement with lots of patched cracks and joints for off the seat jolts. The asphalt shoulder riding area has a lot of stones, glass, etc. that so far have not given me flats, but I try to keep a sharp eye out for obstacles.
My last commuter bike was a KHS Urban-X with 26"x1.5 60# Kenda Kwest tires with quite a bit of tread, while my current bike is a Specialized Sirrus Sport with 700x32c tires that are fairly smooth and I keep them at about 80-90# I've noticed a big difference in rolling resistance with the new bike, much faster and seems much easier to get up the hills.. but it is also harsher, I can feel a lot more vibration and the bumps come through more and the handling doesn't feel quite as easy as with the KHS although it feels faster, is this because of the narrower tires and lack of heavier tread?
Doane is offline  
Reply
Old 03-11-12 | 11:26 AM
  #45  
Senior Member
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 12,948
Likes: 9
From: England
Racing happens at very high speed. Narrower tyres have lower aerodynamic drag than wider tyres. Aero drag is proportional to velocity squared so a bit faster means a lot more drag, hence minimising this drag becomes a priority.
Commuting happens at moderate cruising speed so aero drag is much less significant.

Rolling resistance is drag that is pretty much constant at all speeds so is much more significant to the rider at low speeds. At the SAME pressure, a wider tyre has LESS rolling resistance than a narrower tyre. BUT narrower tyres can accept higher pressure.

The 3 factors: aero drag, rolling resistance and pressure all contribute to the efficiency of a tyre at a particular speed. Most people find that the sweet spot for longer commuting is 25-28mm. In the dark or in treacherous conditions, most people prefer to fit a wider tyre. If your route is rougher or you take in some tracks and trails or carry a heavy load, then a wider tyre is better.
There is no harm is having generous tyre clearance on a commuting road bike, you can always fit narrower tyres, but on a racing-clearance bike you are limitted to 25mm max.
Most people looking for more clearance go straight to CX or touring style cantilever brakes but I really like long-drop (57mm) calliper brakes for clearance up to 32mm.

Advice for a 2x15 long commute is a bit different to a 2x8mile urban commute, generally longer rides require racier machines.
MichaelW is offline  
Reply
Old 03-11-12 | 11:55 AM
  #46  
Senior Member
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
From: GTA, Canada
It has already been mentioned and I am just repeating... for commuting a bike that will accept wider tires (and fenders) makes sense. You can run lower pressures (about 50 to 60 psi) on 700 x 34/35c tires and not worry too much when you are unable to dodge cracks/potholes/rail tracks on the road of which there are plenty in a typical commute. Wider tires also mean that you can ride over drainage grates without fear of your tire getting caught and thus causing damage to your rims.

Having said that, wider tires in general are heavier and less aerodynamic than thinner tires (23/25 mm). I would not want to be on wider tires (and a heavy bike) in a race/fast group ride where I might have to accelerate hard to bridge a 50 meter gap where strong head or crosswinds are blowing.

I think I found the optimal commuter tire (Spring to Fall) for my CX bike... it is the Continental Cyclocross Speed folding tire. It is lighter than tires with wire beads but at the same time robust enough to withstand the challenges of daily commuting over a variety of surface roads.
cyclocommuter is offline  
Reply
Old 03-11-12 | 11:58 AM
  #47  
Doane's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
From: California

Bikes: Specialized Sirrus with fenders, rack

Thanks Michael
Doane is offline  
Reply
Old 03-11-12 | 12:20 PM
  #48  
Senior Member
 
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
I have been considering increasing the size of my Continental Reflex City Contacts to maybe another larger size of the same tire. I think they also come in a 2.1 size. I haven't had the need but I like the idea of being able to take on a gravel road without fear.
IndianaShawn is offline  
Reply
Old 03-11-12 | 12:39 PM
  #49  
Banned
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast

Bikes: 8

slamming into a pothole that you thought was just another puddle.
fietsbob is offline  
Reply
Old 03-11-12 | 12:45 PM
  #50  
Senior Member
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 5,302
Likes: 117
When I was light and rode fast I used a road bike with 28mm tires for commuting and touring. Hopping over obstructions and unweighting at speed addressed a lot of the issues with small tires and ruts/bumps in the road. Now that I'm an old fat fart I don't go as fast so deep aerodynamic position isn't possible, my hp is less and I weigh more. Less hopping and more plowing. Fast 35mm tires give me all the speed I need and the degree of cushion makes it possible to cross ruts with less risk of the rim being grabbed. While my average commuting speed is about 5mph less than when I was younger I'm guessing the 35mm tires are only a 1mph penalty under 20mph. I remember a few big guys who raced 30yrs ago and their commuters had 32mm tires. Once the weight goes up there's more benefit to ride and puncture resistance with wider tires than there is a penalty in speed.
LeeG is offline  
Reply


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.