Best cantilever brakes for commuting?
#1
Thread Starter
Have bike, will travel
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Lake Geneva, WI
Bikes: Ridley Helium SLX, Canyon Endurance SL, De Rosa Professional, Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra, Schwinn Paramount (1 painted, 1 chrome), Peugeot PX10, Serotta Nova X, Simoncini Cyclocross Special, Raleigh Roker, Pedal Force CG2 and CX2
Best cantilever brakes for commuting?
I’ve been using Tektro Oryx on my Cyclocross bike with good results. I don’t race or ride in deep mud, so I wonder if these are the best choice for riding on pavement or dry gravel.
I’ve installed Kool-stop pads, which added stopping power, especially when wet. I’m using Shimano 105 STI “brifters”.
The brakes still lack the stopping power of my bikes with caliper brakes. Are there cantilever brakes that provide the maximum stopping power? Mud clearance is not a concern.
I’ve installed Kool-stop pads, which added stopping power, especially when wet. I’m using Shimano 105 STI “brifters”.
The brakes still lack the stopping power of my bikes with caliper brakes. Are there cantilever brakes that provide the maximum stopping power? Mud clearance is not a concern.
__________________
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
#2
nashcommguy
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,499
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From: nashville, tn
Bikes: Commuters: Fuji Delray road, Fuji Discovery mtb...Touring: Softride Traveler...Road: C-dale SR300
Would think that swapping over to V-brakes may be the answer. They seem to be an interim step between standard cantilevers and mechanical discs. My CX has T.O. cantis as well. Plenty of stopping power for my needs. My rb has dual-pivot calipers that stop it very quickly. Maybe load/weight is the issue more than grip?
#3
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
Aero lever, Ie short pull + top-mount levers,
Recently got a set of Spooky Cantilevers on my Cross bike, a steel Pinarello,
wanted aluminum, all that was left was Carbon. wide profile.
TRP Eurox is somewhat similar [if fork bosses are spread wide enough]
I plan to try the angle-adjust in place TRP brake pads, next.
Recently got a set of Spooky Cantilevers on my Cross bike, a steel Pinarello,
wanted aluminum, all that was left was Carbon. wide profile.
TRP Eurox is somewhat similar [if fork bosses are spread wide enough]
I plan to try the angle-adjust in place TRP brake pads, next.
Last edited by fietsbob; 11-16-11 at 08:24 PM.
#5
Thread Starter
Have bike, will travel
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 12,286
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From: Lake Geneva, WI
Bikes: Ridley Helium SLX, Canyon Endurance SL, De Rosa Professional, Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra, Schwinn Paramount (1 painted, 1 chrome), Peugeot PX10, Serotta Nova X, Simoncini Cyclocross Special, Raleigh Roker, Pedal Force CG2 and CX2
No, Mini-V's are not up for consideration. hydraulic closed system? Are you guys kidding?
There are dozens of canti brakes, I would like to consider those that are ideal for brifters and for cleaner conditions than CX racing.
There are dozens of canti brakes, I would like to consider those that are ideal for brifters and for cleaner conditions than CX racing.
__________________
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
#6
I'm of the opinion that most any cantilever brake can be made to stop you just as well as a dual pivot caliper, v-brake, or disk. The issue isn't the brake itself, it's the set-up. Cantilever brakes have an almost absurd amount of flexibility in set-up, but they only work well in one or two of the thousands of possible variations. Ditch the link wire and use a yoke, and then spend some time reading about cantilever geometry, then spend some time fiddling with your brakes. It shouldn't take more than a few hours until you know how to best set up your cantilevers.
Some models are easier to set up than others, I've heard of people having a pretty easy time with the Tektro CR720.
Some models are easier to set up than others, I've heard of people having a pretty easy time with the Tektro CR720.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 129
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From: Escondido, CA
I had problems with the Oryx squeeling on my front and switched to a Tektro 720 which is much nicer. Still have the Oryx in back and it works fine there.
Set up guide - https://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
Set up guide - https://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,049
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From: Warwick, UK
Bikes: 2000-something 3 speed commuter, 1990-something Raleigh Scorpion
I use fairly basic shimano cantilevers and don't have a problem with stopping power- the limiting factor is my low-end brake levers. The key is in the set up- if done properly, they have just as much power as v-brakes, if done wrong they can be useless. A proper yoke and transverse cable really helps in getting the adjustment right. You should be able to set them up to either skid the front wheel or endo the bike, which is as much braking power as you'll need- any more is redundant.
#9
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 12,948
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From: England
Eliminating flex in the system is key. If you can fit an uphanger to the fork crown, you eliminate lots of cable stretch and hanger flex.
I switched from some very poor cantis to Tektro CR520 or 720. They are wider profile but as good as cantis can get.
You need to figure the right straddle wire length to get the best geometry.
I switched from some very poor cantis to Tektro CR520 or 720. They are wider profile but as good as cantis can get.
You need to figure the right straddle wire length to get the best geometry.
#11
Agree that well set up cantis will offer stopping power as good as anything out there... favourites are the no longer available XTR cantis but these can be found on the secondary market.
Any decent canti with proper set up will do the job.
Any decent canti with proper set up will do the job.
#12
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Raleigh, NC
Bikes: Waterford RST-22, Bob Jackson World Tour, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Soma Saga, De Bernardi SL, Specialized Sequoia
I've got Shimano BR-R550s and Tektro CR720s on two bikes. They both work well, particularly after installing KoolStop pads. My mechanics apparently did a great job setting them up because they stop better than the Ultegra caliper brakes (also w/ Koolstops) on my other bikes. They don't squeal unless the rims or pads are dirty and stop much better in the rain than caliper brakes. Both brakes work equally well but I prefer the Shimanos to the Tektros because they don't jut out so much on the sides. They Shimanos also seem like they would hold up better over time.
#13
Thread Starter
Have bike, will travel
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 12,286
Likes: 317
From: Lake Geneva, WI
Bikes: Ridley Helium SLX, Canyon Endurance SL, De Rosa Professional, Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra, Schwinn Paramount (1 painted, 1 chrome), Peugeot PX10, Serotta Nova X, Simoncini Cyclocross Special, Raleigh Roker, Pedal Force CG2 and CX2
I had problems with the Oryx squeeling on my front and switched to a Tektro 720 which is much nicer. Still have the Oryx in back and it works fine there.
Set up guide - https://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
Set up guide - https://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
Eliminating flex in the system is key. If you can fit an uphanger to the fork crown, you eliminate lots of cable stretch and hanger flex.
I switched from some very poor cantis to Tektro CR520 or 720. They are wider profile but as good as cantis can get.
You need to figure the right straddle wire length to get the best geometry.
I switched from some very poor cantis to Tektro CR520 or 720. They are wider profile but as good as cantis can get.
You need to figure the right straddle wire length to get the best geometry.
I've got Shimano BR-R550s and Tektro CR720s on two bikes. They both work well, particularly after installing KoolStop pads. My mechanics apparently did a great job setting them up because they stop better than the Ultegra caliper brakes (also w/ Koolstops) on my other bikes. They don't squeal unless the rims or pads are dirty and stop much better in the rain than caliper brakes. Both brakes work equally well but I prefer the Shimanos to the Tektros because they don't jut out so much on the sides. They Shimanos also seem like they would hold up better over time.
I ordered a set after reading many positive reviews from many sources. Many users are enjoying improved results after using Tektro Oryx or Avid Shorties. The price is very good, $23 for a pair, including shipping, and they come in black.
__________________
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
#15
I switched to Tektro 720's and while an improvement over the Oryx I was never able to get the front brake to truly work in any kind of rain. Despite my best efforts and two different mechanics giving it their best shot. Finally swapped the front for a mini-v and the improvement has been dramatic.
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,536
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From: central ohio
Bikes: 96 gary fisher 'utopia' : 99 Softride 'Norwester'(for sale), 1972 Raleigh Twenty. Surly 1x1 converted to 1x8, 96 Turner Burner
Put me down for a 720 user as well. I like the long reach on them. It seems to give me more stopping power. Kinda like a fulcrum.
Last edited by scoatw; 11-16-11 at 06:53 PM.
#17
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 11,373
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From: Columbus, OH
Bikes: '08 Surly Cross-Check, 2011 Redline Conquest Pro, 2012 Spesh FSR Comp EVO, 2015 Trek Domane 6.2 disc
Another CR720 user here! Have them on my brevet/commuter and my CX racing bike.
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