normal wear and tear ?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 86
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From: china
Bikes: merida r 903 road, duke 350 mountain
normal wear and tear ?
so i've been commuting for around 9 months now and i'm at around 1000 miles or so on my bike. i ride a $50 chinese hybrid style mountain bike and so far i've snapped 3 pedals, broken both of my grip shifts, worn out the rear brake pads and cable and re-greased all major bearings. other than that its in great shape, no chain problems and all the cranks seem fine and my tires are holding up well. i'm really surprised the amount of abuse that such a cheap bike can handle.
i ride in hot weather with tropical rains a few months of the year and work on my bike often to keep it in good working order.
so i know its difficult to compare but what kind of wear do others get after a good 1000 miles of commuting? can my cheap ass bike compare with a more expensive counterpart?
i ride in hot weather with tropical rains a few months of the year and work on my bike often to keep it in good working order.
so i know its difficult to compare but what kind of wear do others get after a good 1000 miles of commuting? can my cheap ass bike compare with a more expensive counterpart?
#2
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 871
Likes: 115
From: Minnesota
Bikes: Cannondale '92 T600 '95 H600 '01 RT1000
Does that help? :-)
#3
Full Member

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 461
Likes: 42
From: Fishers Indiana
Bikes: Longbikes Slipstream
I replace chain and tires about every 8,000 miles (no load on recumbent chains, but when i do it, I have to buy 3 because of the length). Cables about twice as often but it would be less if we didn't have winter where they freeze in the housing. Bearing areas like hubs or bottom bracket or pedals probably more like 20,000 miles (only done them once).
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Longbikes Slipstream
Longbikes Slipstream
#4
Mostly harmless ™
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,462
Likes: 243
From: Novi Sad
Bikes: Heavy, with friction shifters
350 euro custom built hybrid. Brake pads and a new chain after first 1800 kms.
Changed pedals and tires for models that suit me better, but the old ones are still good.
Changed pedals and tires for models that suit me better, but the old ones are still good.
#5
nashcommguy
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,499
Likes: 0
From: nashville, tn
Bikes: Commuters: Fuji Delray road, Fuji Discovery mtb...Touring: Softride Traveler...Road: C-dale SR300
My bike is a Motobecane Fantom CX from https://www.bikesdirect.com Changed out the stock tires after 2 weeks for some Schwalbe Marathon Plus' as the cx tires are too soft for asphalt/pavement. Have over 17,000 commuter/utility miles w/one overhaul and several cleaning/lubing/adjustment services. A couple of minor rear wheel re-truings...none on the front. I re-lube and clean the chain after every wet ride. The bb is beginning to creak, so it will have to be changed out soon. Other than that it's been a real workhorse. No major problems at all. Mine was 500.00US when purchased over 3 years ago. They're up to 550.00US now. Still, a very good deal.
#6
aka Timi

Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,599
Likes: 320
From: Gothenburg, Sweden
Bikes: Bianchi Lupo & Bianchi Volpe Disc: touring. Bianchi Volpe: commuting
I applaud you for taking such good care of such a cheap bike
Are you upgrading somewhat the parts that break down? Or replacing with similar quality? By upgrading slowly you may end up with a decent bike without a large one-off investment.
Comparing your bike with what a lot of people around here ride, many of us have the privilege of being able to buy $1000 - $2000 bikes, just isn't fair.
1000 miles is maybe what I'll ride in two weeks or so on tour. I expect any wear and tear in that time to basically be unnoticeable.
Are you upgrading somewhat the parts that break down? Or replacing with similar quality? By upgrading slowly you may end up with a decent bike without a large one-off investment.
Comparing your bike with what a lot of people around here ride, many of us have the privilege of being able to buy $1000 - $2000 bikes, just isn't fair.
1000 miles is maybe what I'll ride in two weeks or so on tour. I expect any wear and tear in that time to basically be unnoticeable.
Last edited by imi; 11-24-11 at 12:47 PM.
#8
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Germany
Bikes: 2003 Steppenwolf Transterra, 2016 Cube/Bosch Delhi Hybrid Ebike
For comparison purposes; a German Steppenwolf hybrid bike with Shimano Alivio group. Used on and off for commuting since 2003, and exclusively since this summer, about 600 km a month.
Besides the drive train, brake pads and tyres, I had to replace the pedals for damage at around 10000 km. The rear rim had a lengthwise tear over the length of three spoke holes at about 8000 km, replaced the whole wheel, has now deore hub. Alivio shift levers (plastic) felt a bit jiggly, lately, before replacing them with barcons. Bell broke. Rubber handles became sticky and icky. One halogen bulb wore out last winter. That's all that really broke so far.
I did replace the whole drive train at about 5000 km, because the worn chain (I didn't keep up with it) had eaten all the cogs and chain rings. Since then up to now at about 10000 I had to give it two more cassettes, 3 more chains, and soon one more chain will be necessary, perhaps at 1100, then a whole drive train again in spring, at possibly 13000 km.
New brakepads roughly every 2000 or 3000 km, I like to err on the side of caution here.
First set of tyres, Schwalbe Cross Country, were gone at 500 km (the rear, anyway), second set, some Chinese made department store tyres held up to 8000. The new ones, Schwalbe Marathon don't look touched after 2000 km.
The Chinese tyres (Chen Shin?) were not bad, really. Not quite so grippy as the Schwalbes, a bit less rolling comfort. Durable, there was thread left on the rear, but they began to develop some cracks on the sidewalls. Cost only a third of the Schwalbes. I believe they where a good choice when you want to get on your bike, but are a bit low on money.
Over the years I had some parts replaced because I wanted a different setup, not for wear. Things like handlebars, brake and shift levers, saddles, better lights, longer mudguards. The parts I removed for that are mostly still good, went into the parts box.
Besides the drive train, brake pads and tyres, I had to replace the pedals for damage at around 10000 km. The rear rim had a lengthwise tear over the length of three spoke holes at about 8000 km, replaced the whole wheel, has now deore hub. Alivio shift levers (plastic) felt a bit jiggly, lately, before replacing them with barcons. Bell broke. Rubber handles became sticky and icky. One halogen bulb wore out last winter. That's all that really broke so far.
I did replace the whole drive train at about 5000 km, because the worn chain (I didn't keep up with it) had eaten all the cogs and chain rings. Since then up to now at about 10000 I had to give it two more cassettes, 3 more chains, and soon one more chain will be necessary, perhaps at 1100, then a whole drive train again in spring, at possibly 13000 km.
New brakepads roughly every 2000 or 3000 km, I like to err on the side of caution here.
First set of tyres, Schwalbe Cross Country, were gone at 500 km (the rear, anyway), second set, some Chinese made department store tyres held up to 8000. The new ones, Schwalbe Marathon don't look touched after 2000 km.
The Chinese tyres (Chen Shin?) were not bad, really. Not quite so grippy as the Schwalbes, a bit less rolling comfort. Durable, there was thread left on the rear, but they began to develop some cracks on the sidewalls. Cost only a third of the Schwalbes. I believe they where a good choice when you want to get on your bike, but are a bit low on money.
Over the years I had some parts replaced because I wanted a different setup, not for wear. Things like handlebars, brake and shift levers, saddles, better lights, longer mudguards. The parts I removed for that are mostly still good, went into the parts box.
#9
so i've been commuting for around 9 months now and i'm at around 1000 miles or so on my bike. i ride a $50 chinese hybrid style mountain bike and so far i've snapped 3 pedals, broken both of my grip shifts, worn out the rear brake pads and cable and re-greased all major bearings. other than that its in great shape, no chain problems and all the cranks seem fine and my tires are holding up well. i'm really surprised the amount of abuse that such a cheap bike can handle.
i ride in hot weather with tropical rains a few months of the year and work on my bike often to keep it in good working order.
so i know its difficult to compare but what kind of wear do others get after a good 1000 miles of commuting? can my cheap ass bike compare with a more expensive counterpart?
i ride in hot weather with tropical rains a few months of the year and work on my bike often to keep it in good working order.
so i know its difficult to compare but what kind of wear do others get after a good 1000 miles of commuting? can my cheap ass bike compare with a more expensive counterpart?
Naturally, whatever sucks about it at the start still sucks no matter how well it lasts. If, like me, you can live with it (whatever it is) then it's very viable and practical.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,571
Likes: 16
From: Oxnard, CA
Bikes: 2009 Fuji Roubaix RC; 2011 Fuji Cross 2.0; '92 Diamond Back Ascent EX
At 5K miles, my low end Schwinn commuter (Le Tour GS) was doing great. Clean and lube was been all that had been needed till it encountered a Camry. Not sure if I'll ride it again but will probably get it back on the road and pass it along to someone else (with full disclosure on its history).
#11
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 780
From: Shanghai, China
Bikes: Waltly Custom Ti // Seaboard CX01 // Dahon Boardwalk
Imported stuff is available too, but it's nowhere near as easy to find, and you can expect to pay through the nose for it.
As to the OP: I've had my Giant for 7 months and have put on 5300km. In that time I've replaced the brake pads (front and rear) once, had a failed freehub (though I think this must have been a defective part, not normal wear and tear) replaced the rear tire once (bead started separating from the tire) had the hand grips wear quite substantially (though not enough to replace yet), had a rear derailleur cable snap at the shifter housing, and had so many spokes break on the rear wheel that I had to buy a new set of wheels to deal with the problem. I also tend to clean/lube the chain once every 1/2 weeks (depends on how often it rains) because of all the grit that's on Shanghai streets. I as yet have had no problems with the cranks, bottom bracket, or derailleurs, but when it's time to replace them, I will be upgrading rather than simply buying the same stuff that's on there now.
#12
My primary commuter has served me through the past two winters and every bit of crappy weather in between... over an estimated 10,000 km I have topped up the tyres, lubed the chain, and this spring converted the drive over from the 3 speed IGH to an 18 speed derailleur drive when I retired it from winter duty.
I overhaul the serviceable bearings once a year, the cartridge bottom bracket went in well over 15,000 km ago and is still fine.
It is a 1988 Kuwahara Shasta that was a $750.00 bike 23 years ago, I bought it as a used frame and fork and built it up as a fixed gear for one winter, ran it as an IGH for two and the 18 speed set up has been performing flawlessly.
I have been running the pedals (Deore XT quills) on this bike and others for 5 years and overhauled them when I bought them used.
It is a well made bike and I have always used high quality parts... nothing has ever broken.
I overhaul the serviceable bearings once a year, the cartridge bottom bracket went in well over 15,000 km ago and is still fine.
It is a 1988 Kuwahara Shasta that was a $750.00 bike 23 years ago, I bought it as a used frame and fork and built it up as a fixed gear for one winter, ran it as an IGH for two and the 18 speed set up has been performing flawlessly.
I have been running the pedals (Deore XT quills) on this bike and others for 5 years and overhauled them when I bought them used.
It is a well made bike and I have always used high quality parts... nothing has ever broken.
#15
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: china
Bikes: merida r 903 road, duke 350 mountain
I applaud you for taking such good care of such a cheap bike
Are you upgrading somewhat the parts that break down? Or replacing with similar quality? By upgrading slowly you may end up with a decent bike without a large one-off investment.
Comparing your bike with what a lot of people around here ride, many of us have the privilege of being able to buy $1000 - $2000 bikes, just isn't fair.
1000 miles is maybe what I'll ride in two weeks or so on tour. I expect any wear and tear in that time to basically be unnoticeable.
Are you upgrading somewhat the parts that break down? Or replacing with similar quality? By upgrading slowly you may end up with a decent bike without a large one-off investment.
Comparing your bike with what a lot of people around here ride, many of us have the privilege of being able to buy $1000 - $2000 bikes, just isn't fair.
1000 miles is maybe what I'll ride in two weeks or so on tour. I expect any wear and tear in that time to basically be unnoticeable.

i actually really like working on my bike, i've learned to fix most problems just from having a bike that breaks all the time. i don't think that i would have been brave enough to do maintenance on a high end bike but now i have plenty of experience.
i'm actually going to upgrade for christmas i think. i'm looking at a merida or a giant moutain bike, still cheap but a noticable improvement is quality and performance. can't wait!
#16
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: china
Bikes: merida r 903 road, duke 350 mountain
As to the OP: I've had my Giant for 7 months and have put on 5300km. In that time I've replaced the brake pads (front and rear) once, had a failed freehub (though I think this must have been a defective part, not normal wear and tear) replaced the rear tire once (bead started separating from the tire) had the hand grips wear quite substantially (though not enough to replace yet), had a rear derailleur cable snap at the shifter housing, and had so many spokes break on the rear wheel that I had to buy a new set of wheels to deal with the problem. I also tend to clean/lube the chain once every 1/2 weeks (depends on how often it rains) because of all the grit that's on Shanghai streets. I as yet have had no problems with the cranks, bottom bracket, or derailleurs, but when it's time to replace them, I will be upgrading rather than simply buying the same stuff that's on there now.
how do you find it? is it tougher than it looks??
#17
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,953
Likes: 387
From: NE Indiana
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
so i've been commuting for around 9 months now and i'm at around 1000 miles or so on my bike. i ride a $50 chinese hybrid style mountain bike and so far i've snapped 3 pedals, broken both of my grip shifts, worn out the rear brake pads and cable and re-greased all major bearings. other than that its in great shape, no chain problems and all the cranks seem fine and my tires are holding up well. i'm really surprised the amount of abuse that such a cheap bike can handle.
i ride in hot weather with tropical rains a few months of the year and work on my bike often to keep it in good working order.
so i know its difficult to compare but what kind of wear do others get after a good 1000 miles of commuting? can my cheap ass bike compare with a more expensive counterpart?
i ride in hot weather with tropical rains a few months of the year and work on my bike often to keep it in good working order.
so i know its difficult to compare but what kind of wear do others get after a good 1000 miles of commuting? can my cheap ass bike compare with a more expensive counterpart?
I'm not trying to bust your bubble, but a $50 Chinese bike won't last long, and using a bike like that for commuting is asking to arrive to work late due to breakdowns, and how long will a boss tolerate that?
More expensive? You can get a really nice bike from Bikes Direct.com without being expensive, see: https://www.bikesdirect.com/ Look at the sale priced bikes then click on the road tab if none of those are to your liking. Touring bikes are great for commuting on as are Cyclocross and Hybrids so look at those too, but any road bike will work. But you don't need an outrageously expensive bike to commute on, but at Bikes Direct a bike in the range of $450 to $600 will get you a nice commuter bike.
There's a neat low maintenance Windsor Kensington 8 on sale for $450. Low maintenance because it uses a 8 speed internal gear hub instead of an external derailleur and gears. It also has a steel frame which will last a very long time, comes with a rear and a small front rack which would be great for commuting and even weekend touring trips. See: https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...ensington8.htm
#18
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: china
Bikes: merida r 903 road, duke 350 mountain
How much more money do you want to spend on replacing broken parts before you decide to up the ante on a bike that cost more? You probably already spent $50 on worn out parts.
I'm not trying to bust your bubble, but a $50 Chinese bike won't last long, and using a bike like that for commuting is asking to arrive to work late due to breakdowns, and how long will a boss tolerate that?
More expensive? You can get a really nice bike from Bikes Direct.com without being expensive, see: https://www.bikesdirect.com/ Look at the sale priced bikes then click on the road tab if none of those are to your liking. Touring bikes are great for commuting on as are Cyclocross and Hybrids so look at those too, but any road bike will work. But you don't need an outrageously expensive bike to commute on, but at Bikes Direct a bike in the range of $450 to $600 will get you a nice commuter bike.
There's a neat low maintenance Windsor Kensington 8 on sale for $450. Low maintenance because it uses a 8 speed internal gear hub instead of an external derailleur and gears. It also has a steel frame which will last a very long time, comes with a rear and a small front rack which would be great for commuting and even weekend touring trips. See: https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...ensington8.htm
I'm not trying to bust your bubble, but a $50 Chinese bike won't last long, and using a bike like that for commuting is asking to arrive to work late due to breakdowns, and how long will a boss tolerate that?
More expensive? You can get a really nice bike from Bikes Direct.com without being expensive, see: https://www.bikesdirect.com/ Look at the sale priced bikes then click on the road tab if none of those are to your liking. Touring bikes are great for commuting on as are Cyclocross and Hybrids so look at those too, but any road bike will work. But you don't need an outrageously expensive bike to commute on, but at Bikes Direct a bike in the range of $450 to $600 will get you a nice commuter bike.
There's a neat low maintenance Windsor Kensington 8 on sale for $450. Low maintenance because it uses a 8 speed internal gear hub instead of an external derailleur and gears. It also has a steel frame which will last a very long time, comes with a rear and a small front rack which would be great for commuting and even weekend touring trips. See: https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...ensington8.htm
i think its important to point out that $50 is alot more here in china that it is in the US and my bike would sell for more overseas as it is made for export. and in terms or replacement parts, cost me about $10 or so this yearas its just not that expensive to replace stuff here. i thinks its worth it for all of the experience that my bike has given me.
and yes i have been late for work once. fortuanatley it usually breaks down on the way home
#20
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 780
From: Shanghai, China
Bikes: Waltly Custom Ti // Seaboard CX01 // Dahon Boardwalk
i see that you ride a fcr3500. i saw one in the giant shop for just under 3000 yuan last week. looks really nice, especially like that fork but i took one look at the skinny wheels and just couldn't see it surviving the potholes and other crap that i meet on my commute.
how do you find it? is it tougher than it looks??
how do you find it? is it tougher than it looks??
#21
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,953
Likes: 387
From: NE Indiana
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
I didn't look at your location, didn't realize you were in China!! Having never heard of the brand of bike you're riding on it "seems" like the frame is stout enough, (note, I said seems). Having never shopped in China for bikes I'm not sure how to advise you because I don't know what the offerings are over there. Like you said $50 is a lot of money in China, so you could probably get a really nice bike for $200 there. Problem is due to the cost of things there wages are usually proportionate with wages, thus $200 may be difficult to obtain for a lot of people there, but I also don't know your income level either.
Sorry, I just can't advise now, other then try looking for a bike you think is higher quality for a price you can afford. I do know this, you can't keep having breakdowns, even though you've been lucky up to now the breakdowns have been on the way home, next time it may not.
Sorry, I just can't advise now, other then try looking for a bike you think is higher quality for a price you can afford. I do know this, you can't keep having breakdowns, even though you've been lucky up to now the breakdowns have been on the way home, next time it may not.
#22
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque, NM
Bikes: Surly LHT, two Fisher ATBs, Specialized Sirrus
Maintaining cheap bikes
I'm one of those type with the garage shop that everyone brings their bike to for repair. Glad to do it but when I get the low cost ones it's is a bit disappointing because I inevitably find pitted bearing cones, deformed rims, dangerously crappy brakes, etc. And, since the tolerances are so sloppy, clean repacked bearings don't stay that way very long. Steel is normally very ductile which deforms leading to I'll fitting components. Rims tend to be single-walled making them very susceptible to distortion. Makes me angry that certain bike companies scheme to get unsuspecting or unknowledgabe people to buy these tanks. I always advise to get a good used bike and overhaul. We have a saying in Spanish - Lo barato questa caro (cheap stuff is expensive).
#24
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Worcester, England, United Kingdom
Bikes: Ribble 531C/Shimano 600 (pre ultegra)
Good morning
I do a 17 mile each way commute 5 days a week, this is about 1,00km per month and since I started about 6 months ago I have bought;
I pair of wheels - £100 (Shimano Sora and Weinmann DP-18)
5 Tyres - £75 (Schwalbe Blizzard Sport, Continental Ultra Sport)
5-10 Inner tubes - £20 - £40, (I have lost track, as I used to hit a deep pot-hole that meant a snake bite puncture that I had difficulty successfully patching) (Continental, Specialized, Halfords)
3 Chains - £40 (Shimano)
3 Cassettes - £65 (Shimano HG50)
2 Rear mechs - £75 (Shimano 105)
1 Pair of downtube shifters £25 (Shimano)
1 Outer chain ring £15
Miscellaneous brake and gear cables and outers £30
2 Sets of brake blocks £15
Totalling £480
As a guide this years Specialized Sectuer costs £650 https://www.sigmasport.co.uk/Product/...cycle-2012.asp
Three cassettes/chains and two rear mechs sound a lot, but one chain broke, taking the rear mech and a couple of teeth off the cassette.
However I am expecting a lot of life out of many of these components as they replace worn out bits on an early 1990’s non indexed 7 speed, 531 framed beauty with mostly Shimano 600 (pre Ultegra)/500 bits.
Bye
Ian
I do a 17 mile each way commute 5 days a week, this is about 1,00km per month and since I started about 6 months ago I have bought;
I pair of wheels - £100 (Shimano Sora and Weinmann DP-18)
5 Tyres - £75 (Schwalbe Blizzard Sport, Continental Ultra Sport)
5-10 Inner tubes - £20 - £40, (I have lost track, as I used to hit a deep pot-hole that meant a snake bite puncture that I had difficulty successfully patching) (Continental, Specialized, Halfords)
3 Chains - £40 (Shimano)
3 Cassettes - £65 (Shimano HG50)
2 Rear mechs - £75 (Shimano 105)
1 Pair of downtube shifters £25 (Shimano)
1 Outer chain ring £15
Miscellaneous brake and gear cables and outers £30
2 Sets of brake blocks £15
Totalling £480
As a guide this years Specialized Sectuer costs £650 https://www.sigmasport.co.uk/Product/...cycle-2012.asp
Three cassettes/chains and two rear mechs sound a lot, but one chain broke, taking the rear mech and a couple of teeth off the cassette.
However I am expecting a lot of life out of many of these components as they replace worn out bits on an early 1990’s non indexed 7 speed, 531 framed beauty with mostly Shimano 600 (pre Ultegra)/500 bits.
Bye
Ian
Last edited by IanSmithISA; 11-26-11 at 02:12 AM. Reason: fix grammer
#25
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,953
Likes: 387
From: NE Indiana
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
That seems like a lot of repairs for about 3,750 miles in American terms if what you said of 1,000km per month. You should not have to replace anything except tires. So maybe the miles, or kilometers you wrote I misunderstood? Sounds like you're rough on your bike. There is no reason to be breaking teeth on cassettes, replacing all those derailleurs etc. The only repair you should have had if you started commuting on a used bike would have been tires, one chain, one cassette and one chain ring. There's no reason to replace tubes like you do if you patch the flats which would have saved you at least $50 in tubes.
I have a bike with over 150,000 miles on it and the only stuff I had to replace was usual wear items like tires and tube, brake blocks, chains and freewheels, one set of chain rings, rims last about 35,000 to 40,000 miles, and cables...that's it.
I have a bike with over 150,000 miles on it and the only stuff I had to replace was usual wear items like tires and tube, brake blocks, chains and freewheels, one set of chain rings, rims last about 35,000 to 40,000 miles, and cables...that's it.




